First, I checked the local Ford dealer in Saskatoon for a price on new door lock motors - they wanted $187.00 CDN plus taxes for a new 1990 OEM door lock motor.  YIKES!!!!!!  So, I bought TWO new lock actuators from EBAY.  They cost me $30.00 US or a total or about $70.00 CDN when all was said and done.  That is about $35.00 CDN each.  The nice thing is that the ones I bought are OEM - original FORD parts!  The catch: The solenoid actuators are for 1992-96 Ford trucks and are different in two respects: (1) they have different mounting brackets, and (2) the electrical connector is different - both are no problem - just see the procedure below.

The message here is to SHOP around, scrounge - be patient - be smart, and the parts will come to you eventually and usually at a better price - the prime objective.

Step One: The new actuators have a different mount. You have to DRILL out the original mount rivets.  If you are installing original 1990 parts - don't drill the rivets - but if you are upgrading to a BETTER actuator - drill the buggers!  Don't be afraid - rivets are a dime a dozen and please use STEEL rivets, not the aluminum ones.  I used the 1/4 " steel rivets.  Once you have drilled the rivets out - remove the old actuator by gently prying it away from the outer edge of the door.  Throw a trouble light in the door to assist.  Note the z-bend at the end of the actuator rod - lift and pull.  Disconnect the electrical connector.

Step Two: Since the new actuators have a different connector assembly - CUT the old connector head off.  Don't be afraid - this is why they invented solder-less connectors.  Don't worry about polarity at this point.

Step Three: (Preparation) : Depending on the rivets used, you may need to place a "backing washer" onto the new actuator mount.  I simply glued a backing plate on the inside of the mount with CA glue (with accelerator).

Step Four: Crimp two new solder-less connectors on the wires - use insulated connectors here.  When selecting the connector - test the connector on the male lugs in the new actuator for a snug fit.  Use the correct size and you can even slightly squeeze the connectors with pliers for a better and snugger fit.  Keep in mind that you don't want these to fall off.  Once you have the connector lugs on, plug them into the new actuator.  Test the actuator for operation.  This is where life is backwards - when you press the UNLOCK button, the plunger should go DOWN.  When you press the LOCK button, the plunger should fire upwards.  Its simply because of the way the lever action works in the door lock mechanism. Use high quality PVC tape to tape the wire up.  When taping, tape over the connector body to ensure the wires will stay in place for 20 years.

Step Five: Insert the new lock actuator into the level hole - reverse of the extraction procedure outlined above.  Start by having the actuator horizontal and push the z-bend end into the nylon insert in the door lock mechanism.  Drop the actuator into its general position. Rivet the new actuator into place with steel rivet.  Paint the rivet area on the door to match. TEST the installation.