Grey Apollo Model Hasselblad 500 ELM w. 80mm f/2.8 Planar Lens
Photo thanks to Richard Spitzer
Home page was at http://www.geocities.com/RodeoDrive/3120 (before 2/2003)- daguere@ibm.net
Related Links:
Apollo 500 ELM Space Anniversary Camera
Hasselblad 500C/EL New Users Guide (Lance Mr500cm)
Hasselblad Mailing List Archives (Dan Cardish)
Hasselblads on a Budget
Mailing Lists (Hasselblad list..)
From: Eugene A. Pallat eapallat@orion-data.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: FAQ's for New Hasselblad Users
Date: 24 Feb 1998
Mr500CM
snip
To solve that problem, I made a battery pack which uses 5 D size alkaline
or NiCad batteries in a belt pack. For connection to the camera, a
standard 6 pin DIN connector is used with a cable to the battery pack. You
can get a D size NiCad charger at any Radio Shack or electronics store.
The DIN connectors are available from the same sources for $1.50 to $2.00
US. The pinouts are in Ernst Wildi's "The Hasselblad Manual" on page 68
of the 4th edition.
I also made a DC power supply which runs off the 110VAC line to deliver the
required voltage to the camera.
Gene eapallat@oriondata.com
Orion Data Systems
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002
From: holderied Georg.Holderied@unibas.ch
To: rmonagha@mail.smu.edu
Subject: Hassy nicad replacement
Richard,
Thank you very much for your Hasselblad 500EL(M) Low-Cost Nicad
Battery Replacement Guide.
I have done the modification to a friend's hassy and it works like a
charm.
Two things I observed:
-The screw from 3g) was there on that particular camera.
-It was a bit tricky to lift the motor drive out past the housing corner
near S1.
I bought the replacement battery from Conrad in Germany.
http://www.conrad.de for 20.43 Euros, order # 231037
I made a few of pictures with my coolpix in the process that
may be useful for others who want to modify their cameras.
They are here:
http://www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/hass_bat/hass.html
You are welcome to use them to illustrate your replacement guide,
and to modify them if you wish.
Greetings from Switzerland,
George
--
-
George Holderied, EE, Inst. Phys. Chem., Univ. Basel, Switzerland
Georg.Holderied@unibas.ch http://www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/
Encrypt e-mails with PGP whenever possible. My public key is here:
http://www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/mailme.html
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998
From: helenadick@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Where to buy Varta Batteries (DON'T BUY THEM)
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Go to; www.houseofbatteries.com they can make you almost anything you
need. Consider other brands too, Varta does not always have the Ni Cad
technology. Varta supplied the ELM batteries due to location and
technology at the time.
Benson
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999
Need to do some light painting with an ELX motor drive camera. Is there
any way to do multiple exposures on motor driven Hasselblads other than
doing the old lens cap as shutter trick ?
There is no easy way. Make the first exposure. Keep the shutter release
pressed, and switch the lever to the L setting. Insert the dark slide.
Remove the magazine. Return the lever to the O setting. The camera now
winds on. Replace the magazine. Remove the dark slide, and repeat for as
many exposures as you need on the frame. From experience, I've found that
it is very difficult to maintain perfect registration between frames this
way, even with a tripod-mounted camera.
The lens cap trick is far simpler for doing light painting.
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999
Hasselblad will convert your camera to take AA's, price is around $250-$280.
Give them a call.
Peter
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000
BLADHASS@aol.com wrote:
You can use one standard 9V battery just by adding suitable
contacts to it. Battery's internal resistance will take care of
dropping the voltage down to 4-6 V when the camera is operated.
No modification to the camera is needed.
see: http://www.iki.fi/Simo.Salanne/hasseli/
and there's a way to recycle 35 mm film cans, too:
http://www.iki.fi/Simo.Salanne/hasseli/9vbattery-1.jpg
they fit nicely in the battery slot.
Simo Salanne
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Dear Andreas;
I also have an old EL and I rigged a Quantum battery (2 i think)
it is six volts. If you apply the pos side of the battery to terminal
#5 and the neg side to terminal #1 you also put a fuse in the neg line.
The 5 pin male din cord cap are available at radio shack. You can
pretty much use any 6 volt souce for this setup. There is also a web
site that describes building your own 6 volt rechargable battery packs.
The varta batteries for the el are expensive and a pain. If you forgot
and charger them to long they will explode inside of your camera and do
damage.
If you need the URl of the site to build the battery pacl email me at
jbuf@ix.netcom.com
and i will give it to you. I do not have the info here.
HTH
Andreas Frijdal wrote:
[Ed. note: Warning re: 9 volt battery mods to EL...]
Ernst Wildi and Hasselblad , thinks Dick Werner 9V battery is a bomb
waiting to go off.
[Ed. note: counterpoint! ;-)]
QWhoZeiss@aol.com wrote:
What would you expect them to say? They want to sell you batteries or do
expensive conversions. I have one fellow that 7 ELM's in use almost
every day with this device and he has done so for many years now with no
problems. DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU HEAR FROM HASSELBLAD!!!!!!
--
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Agreed, but the retrofit replaces the original NiCad batteries with
Alkalines, so what NiCads do or don't do isn't relevant to the suitability
of the retrofit.
Simple, but effective, overcurrent protection is a fuse...which the ELM
has...
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Besides the revenue reasons for selling a factory conversion kit, Hassy is
probably concerned that the original motor is expecting to see five
(rather small) 1.2 volt NiCad cells in series, for a total of 6.0 volts.
Unless Dick has added a current limiter of some kind, replacing the old
battery with a 9 volt alkaline battery could increase the current through
the motor by as much as 50% and also increase the inductive kick on the
internal switch, which can pit the surfaces of the switch due to increased
arcing.
That said, the current capacity of a 9 volt alkaline battery (itself made
up of six small 1.4 volt cells in series) is relatively small. It can't
deliver more than 9 "Flash Amps" to a dead short (versus 18 Amps for a AA
Nicad), so things just might be taking care of themselves, despite the
higher voltage. Those who want to be conservative can run the 9 volt
battery down a little before using it.
The risks of someone accidently charging a 9 volt alkaline battery has
some consequences. Charging an alkaline battery for a short time is pretty
harmless, especially if the charger is voltage regulated and has low
current output. Charging an alkaline battery by mistake for HOURS at HIGH
CURRENT is not a good idea, and if the battery overheats it will probably
blow its internal vent and dump its toxic guts all over the insides of the
winder. An "explosion" of the battery is possible but unlikely unless its
vent is clogged or venting hydrogen gas is ignited by a spark. Might be a
good precaution to clearly label the winder to warn any photo assistants
who aren't aware! .....
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000
Icemane,
Check Cabala's, Bass Pro Shops and other hunting specialist stores they
have (almost) what you request. You specified "any camera" . A kit for
your specific request doesn't exist. You could buy a shutter beam and
then would have to set up your own waterproofing.
Jack
"Icemane" gcooley@mindspring.com wrote
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000
Q.G. de Bakker wrote:
And i forgot about the AS (Automatic Speed) mode. It will do the same as
in SR mode, but will do so as long as you keep the release button
depressed. I hate to use the A and AS modes on the EL-models: there is no
way the camera can tell when the lens shutter has finished its cycle, so
it starts to rewind and recock whenever it, the camera, feels it is time
to do so.
This works o.k. with fast shutterspeeds, and Hasselblad does tell us when
not to use this mode, and it won't even damage anything when using too
long shutter speeds. But somehow i still don't like this lack of
co”rdination between lens and body...
That's why i forgot about AS mode. ;-)
From: Stefan Kahlert S.Kahlert@gmx.de
Vick Ko wrote:
Or make one yourself for a fraction of the price. The cylinder can be
nicely replaced by a Kodak (Fuji or Agfa will not fit into the EL's
battery compartment) plastic film can, the battery-adapter should be
available at eg. radio shack for a few cent. Uncover about half an inch
of both wires and fix the black one to the lid of the cap and the red
one to the bottom (mimics the tapered end of the varta accumulator,
wrong placement impossible). The film-can goes into one of the EL's
battery compartments the 9V-battery into the other.
BTW. the cylinder/film can has more than enough room for elecronics to
reduce the voltage to the usual 6V. Now *that* would be a device I could
find recommendable (though also not worth $25, not to talk about the
claimed $49,99 as regular price).
Another easy do it yourself solution to the problem I found on usenet is
to buy five NC cells size AAA with welding latches and to connect them
in series. They will fit nicely into said Kodak film-can. Burn two
little wholes into the lid and bottom of the can with your welding iron
and affix some uncovered wires to the outside of the can, + to the
bottom, - to the lid. Two self made AAA-cans will be about half the
price of the Hasselblad accumulator.
Some may say that AAA NiCads will not hold enough charge for the EL and
will also not be economical compared to the genuine Hasselblad
accumulators. Well, it depends. The usual self-discharge of a NiCad is
afaik roughly about 30 days for 50% self-discharge. Hasselblad claimed
that the old NiCad with its 500mAh was good for about 2000 exposures
which translates to 167 rolls of 120. The AAAs I used are 200mAh which
would translate to 67 rolls if the above is correct. Now you can
estimate how many rolls you shoot per 30 days and what will become the
primary issue in your personal kind of use: discharge by use or
self-discharge. With me it was self discharge and fresh AAAs NiCads
self-discharge *a lot* slower then my old Varta NiCads do. I never
looked back to the Hasselblad accumulators not to talk solutions that
are driving my expensive 500ELX out of spec. and which I did not want to
use as an all-the-time solution though I can see some value for them as
a backup in the field.
As side note: Although accumulators are no longer in the Hasselblad
catalogue new NiMH accumulators are, at least in Germany, readily
available from Hasselblad. I called Hasselblad Ahrensburg and they told
me the product number. I didn't keep though as the above solution worked
just as good for me. Product number for the charger suitable for 110V is
#56023, for 230V it's 56024.
hope this helps
Stefan Kahlert
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
It looks like you need a Switchcraft 12GM5M (grey) or 12JL5M (black)
You can look them up on http://www.switchcraft.com and order them from
http://www.newark.com Use the manufacturer's PN search. I'm just
trying to help and I assume no liability if this is not the right part
(:
Jim McDonough wrote:
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
From hasselblad Mailing List:
Richard
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
jjs wrote:
Age. These things can be quite old, and worn. The first EL/M was on the
market in 1971, the last in 1985. So they would be at least 16 years old.
More likely even older. (The same is true for the lenses and backs usually
offered with these old cameras: most of them are near the end of their
useful life.)
Plus, the newer models are more desirable: the 500 ELX added a
larger, non-vigneting mirror and TTL OTF flash automation. The 553 ELX had
the added bonus of the Acute Matte screen and it took AA batteries. And
the battery used in the EL/M is taken out of production, though there is
no real problem, yet. Then there is the 503 CW, which offers all the
goodies the ELX models do, but, with a detachable motor, is lighter.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
...
Nope. They're great cameras. I saw the ones you mentioned, plus several
others, and almost felt compelled to purchase them even though I've
already got one- just 'cause they were so cheap.
I notice that eBay non-reserve auction prices have been lower than usual
since Christmas. I suspect that everyone is still paying off Santa and
it's making them more hesitant to bid. I also notice that chrome Hassy
lenses are selling for about $100 less than they were prior to Christmas
and film backs are cheap across-the-board.
In fact, most medium format equipment is a relative bargain on eBay, right
now.
If that's what you're inclined to buy (and I think it's a good choice)
then just chalk it up to good timing.
-Mike
From hasselblad Mailing List:
I tried the usual source in the USA for electronic parts (Radio Shack) and
they do not carry plugs to fit into the 5 pin connection on the side of my
500 EL. They have 5 pin plugs but arranged in a 180 degree arc instead of
the 270 degree arc on the 500 EL. Does anyone have a source (mail order
or internet) for these plugs ? I want to make an electronic release and a
radio-controlled release using a salvage Polaroid radio release.
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Try the Hass-EL Converter. This is a pretty slick unit that uses 9volt
batteries but unlike the "adapter in one side, battery in the other" model
that you mentioned, this one actually houses the battery inside the
adapter so that it can be used singly or in pairs. The price is fair and
they even come with a fresh set of Duracell Ultra's. I've got two running
in my ELM and they work great. You can call toll free 877-290-8869 for
more info or see their ad in Shutterbug. The add is usually in the
SHUTTERBUG SHOPPER section near the back. I'm looking at the January
issue and it was on page 280, bottom left-hand corner. Just so you know,
I don't have any affiliation with the company but the guy that makes them
is a freind of mine here in San Antonio.
Thanks,
Mark Greenberg
From hasselblad mailing list;
Good evening Andreas,
Best wishes from Belgium, first of all.
I've been following this thread about problem with 'batteries' for the
EL/M in the past months.
And also the possible remedies. 9 V Battery is the cheapest.
I don't know if the originals are or are not still available at
Hasselblad Sweden.
If not the equivalent NiCd cells are available at Conrad Elektronik Versand Germany
under "Best.Nr. 23 10 37-88 NiCd-Knopfzellen 6V 600mAh 35x50mm 130g DEM 39.95 20.43".
The only thing extra you have to do is remove part of the "Lotfahnen"
with a small side cutter pliers. The make is "Emmerich". See also
http://www.conrad.com.
Ulrik Neupert's suggestion is even better: get the NiMH equivalent
accu's from Hasselblad Deutschland @ US$ 70.00- a piece. get rid of the
'memory effect'.
My original accu's are still very operational.
I don't know if it's important, but I ordered my EL/M in 1977 with 2
accu's. They were always used until I sensed a slowing down of the film
transport and then charched for 20 hours. So 8 hours less than nominal
1/10th period for full charge of 2 accu's. After 23 years they discharge
to about 3.8 V and after the 20 hours are about 6.4 V each.
Of course to conclude the efficiency of this pair of dinosaurs I still
have to test how many exposures are possible at this moment with a full
charge.
Take care,
...
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Etienne Delacretaz wrote:
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hassblad ELX (just got it...)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002
Darmio McDaverd. wrote:
> I am new to the camera and was wondering if you could help me out. On
> the motor drive at the bottom, what do L, O, T do?
Lock, Ordinary (?), and Time.
Set to 'L', the camera is locked. This does not mean however the camera is
switched off. For some reason that escapes me, there is no off switch on any
Hasselblad camera in the EL(...) line! What happens is that a pawl engages a
lever in the release mechanism, blocking it. But when you push on the
release button, the magnet will draw, and batteries will run down.
Set to 'O' the camera is ready for use.
Setting the lever to 'T' the camera will release and keep the auxillary
shutter in the back open until you put the lever back to 'O'. It is like
keeping the release button depressed. Useful for doing long, "time"
exposures.
> What are the settings
> on the dial above that.
AS = Automatic Speed
A = Automatic
O = Ordinary
S = Speed
SR = Speed Repeat
"O" is the setting normally used. When the release is tripped (either by
pushing the button or by cable) the camera cycle starts (a: close lens
shutter and aperture; b: lift mirror, open rear shutter; c: open and close
lens shutter to expose film), and completes (d: close rear shutter; f:
transport film, lower mirror and open lens shutter and aperture) as soon as
pressure on the release button is taken off.
"S" setting prereleases the camera (cycle starts but end after b: in the
above description). This to eliminate vibrations. Pressing the release
button will complete the cycle. The dial returns to "O" when pushed to "S".
"SR" is the same as "S", but the camera ends up in prereleased state. You
will have to set the dial back to "O" manually.
"A" is the automatic mode. This means the camera will cycle for as long as
you keep the release depressed.
"AS" is a rather enigmatic mode. When set to this, the camera will
prerelease, just like when setting it to "S". All very well so far.
When you press the release, the camera will start to take pictures until you
stop pressing the release, just like in "A" mode. When taking the pressure
of the release, the camera will end up in prereleased mode, i.e. lens
closed, mirror up and rear shutter open.
Still sounds like a good idea, doesn't it? Producing multiple frames while
eliminating vibrations?
Alas! The mirror doesn't stay up between exposures. Instead it is brought
back down to viewing position between exposures, only to be lifted up again
immediately. That way it produces as much vibrations as when using "A" mode.
The only difference between "AS" and "A" mode is that in "AS" mode the
camera starts in prerelease mode and ends up in prerelease mode.
> I can't get the pc sync to work on th lens.
How's that? You have connected the cable to the PC synch, and the flash
doesn't fire?
Sounds like it needs to be seen to by a repair shop.
> I think I have o cock the shutter... but uh, I have no idea how.
The camera should do that for you.
But i'm not quite sure what you're situation is. Have taken the lens off the
camera and need to cock the shutter to be able to put it back on? If so,
insert a coin into the slotted disk on the lens' rear plate, and turn it
clockwise until it locks.
> Also, if there is a web site where I can download an insruction manual,
> let me know.
Not for now. No.
Hasselblad (http://www.hasselblad.se ) has just reworked their website, and
though they told me they were going to include downloadable User Manuals in
.PDF format, they haven't.
Yet?
Important to know, however, is that you cannot take off or put on a lens
when camera or lens aren't both "cocked". You shouldn't even try to do that
since it can seriously damage the link between the two.
Also important to know is that when using longer shutterspeeds, you need to
keep the release depressed until after the leaf shutter has completed the
exposure. Taking pressure off before will cut short the exposure, because
the camera's auxillary shutter (the two flap doors in the back) is operated
directly by the release button, so it will close. And with EL(...) cameras
the camera will start transporting film and cocking the shutter.
But you can ask any questions you have right here, or join the Hasselblad
Users Group mailing list (details on how to subscribe can be found at
http://mail.kelvin.net/guest/RemoteListSummary/Hasselblad.
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002
From: AIPRAL@aol.com
Subject: [HUG] Hasselblad Radio Remote Control Set
GREETINGS:
I saw the posts looking for a Radio Control for Hasselblad.
I have built dozens of these units.
A Polaroid Remote Control Unit is rewired to work on any of the Hasselblad
EL, ELM, ELX or ELD Cameras via the right side panel input socket. The set
consists of the TRANSMITTER: 2"x3.5"x1" and the RECEIVER: 4"x3.5"x1". Include
are two NEW 9 Volt batteries. The Receiver is wired with a three foot cord
giving you plenty of freedom to attach the unit anywhere. The PLUG securely
locks into the Hasselblad side rear socket. Very conveniently there is a
standard 1/4"-20 threaded mounting hole on one side and a 1/4"-20 threaded
Screw on the other of the Receiver. It can be mounted easily to a Flash
Bracket or Grip. The Receiver has a collapsible antenna that extends up to
12". It will swivel up/down @ 360 degrees. It operates on Radio Waves and
will go around corners and out of line of sight. I have triggered the camera
from 60 Feet +. The Transmitter button has two positions, in the first you
can verify the signal is reaching the camera via a RED Signal LED. Second
position fires the camera. Very quick, very easy. This is also very useful
for time exposures. As long as you hold the button down the shutter will stay
open on the "B" setting on the Hasselblad. Useful for Child, Portrait,
Weddings & Surveillance Photography. Included is a neat carrying case with
belt loops. You can see the set at the following link:
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/650366/991929410701_hbplrc1.jpg
I can supply the sets and ship worldwide.
Thank you,
Richard Lyons @ Absolute Images E-Mail: aipral@aol.com
PO Box 5073 Andover MA 01810-0823 USA
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002
From: JIM & SHEILA MCDONOUGH jmcdonough@prodigy.net
Subject: [HUG] Re: radio release
As an inexpensive radio release, I modified a Polaroid radio release
designed for the SX-70. It works well on my 500EL. I have it clipped on to
correct pins, as I have not yet found a source for a DIN plug that fits
(someday I will hopefully add one in with another order from Hasselblad
Parts).
With Polaroid in its death rattle, the remotes should be very cheap on the
used market.
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002
From: blackbird711@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] Re: radio release
This info may help you guys finding the correct DIN plug for your
electric bodies. Had this tucked away in my "keep" file {:-)>
>For the DIN plug call Mouser Electronics 800-346-6873 It is a >Switchcraft
connector Stock number # 502 12GM5M
Hope this helps,
--
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
blackbird711@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/manuals.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/hassequip.html
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001
From: Stein stein@bekkers.com.au
Subject: Heaven helps those....
Dear Friends,
Some time back I posted an enquiry about batteries to drive my 500 ELX.
Lots of replies, with a commercial offer from Dick Werner and a helping hand
from Tsun Tam with the design of a fixed battery pack.
Dick sent two 9-volt square batteries with clever adapters that allowed
them to slip into the round battery holes. Good, and it seemed to cycle the
camera, but I was still after more of a purpose-built battery. My search for
6-volt batteries to make the Tsun Tam Adaptosparkomatic (TM) was going nowhere.
I commenced an Australia-wide search for the old Varta Packs but to no
avail. None to be had.
Then on a tip from a radio-control modeller I called at an industrial
battery firm in the Perth suburb of Balcatta called Siomar Battery Industries.
They had no Varta packs nor could they fnd the button cells to make them up but
they did volunteer that they sometimes made up cylindrical NiCad or NiMH
batteries for Hasselblads in plastic containers. Would I like to be notified
when the next batch was to be constructed?
They duly rang me a couple of weeks ago - I ordered 4 batteries - and
within a week they were in my hands. They are indeed in a cylindrical plastic
case clad with green shrink wrap. The ends are SS plates and and are clearly
marked for polarity. It would appear that they take the charge much as the
Varta pack. They drop right into the ELX. They came charged up and I have been
happily snapping in the studio since Saturday.
Cost? $ 52 Australian each. Our dollar is worth about 51 cents US so you
can see they are fairly reasonable.
They do them in batches and you have to order a few - but are there any of
the HB list members out there who want to get some fresh batteries? I could
collect a list - and some money, thank you - and go put you down for some on
the next batch.
Uncle Dick
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002
From: Peter Rosenthal petroffski@mac.com
Subject: Re: [HUG] New Member
> Anyone out there been using the 9v batt adaptation for any length of
> time? I wonder about the amperage effects on contacts and the motor
> windings, over time.
Not to worry Jenny. The danger lurking in the ELM's is that the bushings
in the motor will wear out over time. The camera starts getting louder and
louder. A rattling and growling sound. THEN, it gets expensive. I've never
seen a motor burn out for any reason but the bushings go fairly regularly.
Especially for wedding and busy portrait photogs. 9V is nothing for this
motor. Almost nothing else needs maintenance, mechanicallyspeakingwise.
Peter
Peter Rosenthal
PR Camera Repair
111 E. Aspen #1
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
(928) 779-5263
Oh yeah... you might want to get a hold of Dick Werner. He should have
manuals. Or know someone who does.
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
blackbird711@earthlink.net
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: Marvin Born mborn@k8xu.com
Subject: Re: [HUG] A technical question
If you have two correct five pin DIN plugs you can make a diode switching
network to fire both cameras exactly the same time with one button. (You
could just both hot pins together but then the batteries could charge each
other.) One diode in each leg would allow one switch button to trigger
both cameras but nott allow current flow between cameras.
Radio Shack should have all the parts you need. The hard parts will finding
the DIN plugs. RS does not have them
Marvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rstein" rstein@bigpond.net.au
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002
Subject: [HUG] A technical question
> Dear Friends,
>
> It is so rare that I ask one of these - most of my photographic queries
> center around where I left my glasses and what is for dinner*. This one is
> at least Hasselblad related.
>
> When more than one electric Hasselblad is to be used - ie 2 of the ELX
> models - side by side, is it possible to trigger them both off at the same
> time? I mean in the same photographic instant ie 1 /60th to 1/125th of a
> second. In other words, given a similar set of 80mm lenses, will they both
> capture the same instant?
>
> Do you trigger them both off from the front button or do you use the
> side sockets? Has anyone got any experience in doing 56mm x 56 mm colour
> stereo slides?
>
> Uncle Dick
from hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: Jim Brick jbrick@elesys.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] A technical question
...(quotes above posting)
But there is soooo much mechanical apparatus between releasing the shutter
electrical solenoid and the actual shutter leaves opening and closing, I
believe it is impossible to have two Hasselblads make an exposure at
exactly the same time. I could be reasonably close, but not exactly. It may
be close enough for government work however.
The only way to get it exactly is to be in the dark, open both shutters,
and use a strobe for the exposure.
Jim
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: ARDPHOTO@aol.com
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] A technical question
If you pre release the mirrors
so only the shutters fire, you'll probably be real close.
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: Tom Christiansen tomchr@softhome.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] A technical question
Folks,
>Radio Shack should have all the parts you need. The hard parts will finding
>the DIN plugs. RS does not have them
That's not too hard, though. As Austin Frankly already mentioned, Digikey
probably has them. If not try the following:
http://www.newark.com/
http://www.future-active.com/
http://www.jameco.com/
I don't know exactly what kind of DIN plug you need. But beware that there
are several different configurations for the same number of pins. E.g. the
5-pin plug comes in a 180 degree, 270 degree, and X configuration.
It's a little simpler with the mini-DIN's (the ones used on PC mice and
keyboards these days).
Tom
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: Austin Franklin darkroom@ix.netcom.com
Subject: RE: [HUG] A technical question
> The hard parts will
> finding
> the DIN plugs.
Try:
http://www.digikey.com/
Austin
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl
Subject: Re: [HUG] A technical question
Jim Brick wrote:
> But there is soooo much mechanical apparatus between releasing the shutter
> electrical solenoid and the actual shutter leaves opening and closing, I
> believe it is impossible to have two Hasselblads make an exposure at
> exactly the same time. I could be reasonably close, but not exactly. It may
> be close enough for government work however.
Yes. it should be that. ;-)
> The only way to get it exactly is to be in the dark, open both shutters,
> and use a strobe for the exposure.
You don't have to be in the dark. You can connect the flash to both lens' PC
terminals in such a way that the flash fires when both are open.
But here's me thinking that all you Hasselblad Veterans have at least one
copy of mr. Wildi's book. Believe it or not, but both subjects
(synchronizing two or more ELs (by the way: hasselblad made a nice command
unit that will fire 4 ELs simultaneously.You can connect more command units
to the first one if you want to release more than 4), and synchronizing
flash with two lens shutters) are in there! With pictures showing how
embarrasingly simple it is ;-)
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002
From: BibbT@aol.com
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] I'm new/Interest in EL cameras
I happen to be the maker and
patent holder of what I consider to be the best and most unique 9 volt battery
adapter for the 500EL/ELM/ELX series cameras. No wires and the ability to run
2-9 volt batteries for many more exposures between battery changes. I have sold
about 1000 these to users/photo shops/camera repairmen all over the world.I
have even sold these to Hasselblad Canada/Lisle Kelco. Bottom line is it works
better than the Nicads or Nickel-hydrids ever did and you can buy a 9 volt just
about anywhere. If anyone is interested, my website is www.hasselconverter.com
Thanks,
Bibb T. Gault
San Antonio,Texas USA
From: ANIL BHARUCHA [abharucha@optonline.net]
Sent: Sun 3/23/2003
To: Monaghan, Robert
Subject: Re: Hassy 500elm
Bob,
an fyi....I was able to find a 6 pin din (not 5 pin din) and it turns out
that the 5 pins out of 6 are configured just like needed 5 pin connector.
The sixth pin is right in the center.
These 6 pin connectors are available at radio shack and I was able to make a
remote release using pins 1 and 3. This might be good info for your web
site.
thanx again.
anil bharucha
From: Q.G. de Bakker [qnu@tiscali.nl]
Sent: Fri 6/18/2004
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] 553 ELX questions
Ruben wrote:
> On monday I am receiving a 553 ELX I bought on an auction. I got it at
about
> 800 usd with a charger,
A charger? You're sure it isn't an 500 ELX?
The 553 model takes 5 AA size batteries. They could of course be NiCads,
needing a charger to charge them (outside the camera). Hasselblad did offer
a AA size battery recharge unit briefly. It was one of the battery chargers
common both then and now, rebranded.
The older 500 ELX still took the large accu which could be loaded inside the
camera using a charger connected to the side socket.
>a pol back, a compendium and two A12 backs - it
> seems fair prized compared to what i se on other sites.
> I have never tried a motorized Hasselblad before
> so compared with the SWC/M and the 500 c/m what should I be aware of?
> any quircks?
Not any particular one i can think of.
The weight of the EL(...)s is a bit different, which, of course, will have a
different feel and balance when holding the thing.
> Any rituals other then the order of lens removal/shutter-cocking
As long as there are batteries in the thing, the shutter lens is cocked
automatically after each exposure. ;-)
That's why the "camera ready" signal on EL models has been a fake ever since
the first EL model appeared. It's just white paint behind the well-known
little window. No mechanism involved at all.
There is the matter of the switches/dials: the tiny LOT-lever on the motor
housing, the mode selector dial where on C(...) cameras the wind crank is,
and the ISO-selector dial on the opposite side.
And when it is an 553 ELX, there is a tiny battery test button on the
battery compartment cover.
The LOT-lever has three positions, L, O and T.
- In L-position (Lock) the camera release is blocked.
- In O-position (Ordinary) the camera is ready for use.
- When moving the lever to the T-position (Time exposure), the camera is
released, but the release cycle is stopped, just as if you would press the
release button and keep your finger on it.
You will have to move it back to "O" again to complete the cycle when the
exposure is done.
It is the same as using the tiny lever on the release button of 500 C and
C/M cameras.
Should your ELX be a 500 ELX, i.e. the one with the big accu, the LOT-lever
must be set to L or O when charging the battery in-camera.
The selector dial has five positions: AS, A, O, S, and SR.
- O-mode is the normal, single frame operating mode. The camera works just
like a 500 C(...), except that after taking the finger off the release, the
motor automatically winds on.
- A-mode (Automatic) is the "continuous" mode: the camera takes pictures as
long as you keep the release depressed. In between exposures the camera
cycles completely, i.e. the mirror goes down and goes up again. After you
let go of the release the camera ends up in O-mode.
- S-mode (Speed) is the same as the prerelease on 500 C(...) cameras. When
the selector is moved to S the lens shutter and diaphragm closes, the mirror
flips up and the auxillary shutter opens. You press the release to make the
exposure. The selector dial moves back to O-mode.
- SR-mode (Speed repeat) is the same, except that the camera returns to
prereleased mode after winding. You will have to return the dial to O to get
out of this mode, but with the camera already prereleased, you will not get
the viewfinder image back until after you release the camera. Take off the
film back before you do if you do not want to waste a frame.
- AS-mode (Automatic Speed) is the "Great EL Fraude". Changing the dial to
AS prereleases the camera (S-mode), and sets it to "continuous" mode. When
you press the button, the camera will start taking pictures until you let go
of the button again. Just like what happens in S-mode.
Now do not make the (easy) mistake in thinking that, since S-mode suggests
prerelease, there is less mirror induced vibration: the mirror will come
down and go up again between exposures just as in A-mode. The only
difference is that the series begins with the mirror up and ends with the
mirror up again. So only the first (!) exposure in a series will have the
benefit of a prereleased camera. All following exposures will not!
The ISO-selector dial is self-explanatory. It is used to set the ISO speed
of the film used. But, of course, only of importance when using a
TTL-control flash.
When pressing battery test button on the battery compartment cover two
led-light will come on whenthe batteries are more than 40% full, only one
when there is less than 40% but more than 20% left in them, and none when
the level drops below 20%.
All (and everything else you might want to know) are covered in Wildi's "The
Hasselblad manual", any edition.
> Is the a manual for the camera somewhere on the web for free downloading?
I don't know. Sorry!
> When did they stop producing the 553 ELX ?
When the 555 ELD was introduced in 1998 (probably a bit before that, of
course).
> Does the camera have "OF TTL something" - flash metering
Yes, it does.
EL/ELM Batteries: Varta discontinued these batteries in the beginning
of 1997. The factory has more than a two year supply in stock and they
are searching for a new vender to stock them in the future. It is
important to discharge them to prevent memories and avoid
overcharging. A full charge is 14 hours with the standard charger.
snip
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] refurbish Nicad ELM battery
rstein wrote:
If the Varta refurbishment isn't possible, there is a firm here in
Perth that makes nickel metal hydride batteries that pop straight into the
ELM or ELM - I bought 4 of them. They cost me AUS$ 52 each. They function
and charge just like the Varta packs.
Perhaps with airmail postage and the exchange rate they would be an
economical answer to your problem.
And if it isn't, perhaps this may be of use (from Hasselblad website FAQ):
There is now an NiMH version of the original battery pack available, tested
and approved by Hasselblad.These batteries have a better per formance than
the original items.
They are recharged in the same manner as before and can use the original
charging unit. They are available through certain Hasselblad distributors,so
it is worth checking with your local dealer first or with your nearest
Hasselblad distributor directly (address on the Hasselblad
website:www.hasselblad.com).
Otherwise you can contact the manufacturer 'Plainview Batteries ' directly:
Plainview Batteries
23 Newton Road
Plainview
New York 11803 USA
Phone:(516)249 -2873
Fax:(516)249 -2876
pbi@plainviewbatteries.com
Plainview Batteries are willing to accept orders from individuals.The
current price is $89.00 US plus shipping
and handling.Visa or Mastercard are accepted forms of payment.The part
number is 'PBI 500EL/ELX '.
I have been selling a device for the batteries for some time now.
Everyone that has used it is thrilled. It just drops in like a nicad.
Here are the detail.................
New New New New
................
I have come up with a break through device
that will allow you to use a cheap store
bought battery to drive your EL, ELM, and
ELX. You can now throw away those clumsy
nicads. Throw them in the trash, along
with the charger, as you will never need
them again. No more guessing as to how much
of a charge you have. No more of these 14
hour charging sessions.
My device uses a cheap common store bought
battery (they can be had in my local area
for as little as .65 cents). This battery
will run the camera through approximately
100 rolls of 120 film before getting low.
When it dies, simply replace the battery
with a new one and go on through your
second 100 rolls of film. No more charging,
no more worries about how much of a charge
you have. No more of these expensive nicads
(they are now running $60/$70 in the
stores). Forget all this stuff and get
modern.
Price of this device is $40.00 plus $3 for
2 day priority mail shipping. The price
includes the device, one battery and
instructions on how to use it. It is very
simple to use, just drop it in like a
nicad and close the side cover plate. I
might add, this device is very simple-you
are paying more for my knowledge than you
are paying for fancy parts.
--
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
helenadick@earthlink.net
From: Benson wnstor@pacbell.net
[1] Re: Where to buy Varta Batteries
Date: Sat Jun 06 1998
From: George Huczek ghuczek@sk.sympatico.ca
Subject: Multiple exposure on Hasselblad ELX
:::::::::::
From: BLADHASS@aol.com
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: specs EL battery charger
From: Simo Salanne Simo@kfs.org
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: 500EL
> Bill:
> I think you paid just about the right price. To buy that camera today would
> cost you over $2900. The EL is built like a tank, its downfall is the cost of
> batteries. Hasselblad USA will convert the camera to take 5 AA's price about
> $270.
http://www.iki.fi/Simo.Salanne/hasseli/9vbattery-2.jpg
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999
From: JIB jbuf@bigfoot.com
Subject: Re: specs EL battery charger
John
> dear all, I just acquired on a nice working old 500EL for my studio
> at a good price but without a battery charger. new they cost around a
> $100 i wonder if anyone could give me the specs of a original battery
> charger (i checked so that i can see if i could substitute it by
> another charger. does some of you have more experience, to help me
> out? thanks in advance Andreas Frijdal
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000
From: QWhoZeiss@aol.com
Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: 500 ELM/ELX
> Ernst Wildi and Hasselblad , thinks Dick Werner 9V battery is a bomb waiting
> to go off.
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000
From: Austin Franklin austin@darkroom.com
Subject: RE: 500 ELM/ELX
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000
From: Bruce Wilson brucewilson@mail.com
Subject: RE: 500 ELM/ELX
From: "Jack Milchanowski" tristar1@airmail.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Wildlife photos with IR trigger
> I'm looking for a kit to set up any camera as an infrared triggered
> photo station. It will need to be weatherproof so I can put it on a
> game trail.
>
> Many Thanks
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Mirror Lock-Up?
> Yes, all EL-models do have prerelease ("S" = speed and "SR" = spreed repeat
> modes).
>
> In S-mode, the camera enters the prereleased state just as the 500 C models.
>
> But in SR-mode, contrary to what one might believe, what really happens is
> that the camera is prereleased, the exposure is made by you pressing the
> release button, and when taking off the pressure from the release button,
> the camera automatically rewinds film, cocks the shutter, *returns the
> mirror to the down position* (!), and quickly re-enters prerelease... The
> mirror will *not* be locked up: it will definitely return between shots.
>
> So the EL-models too have mirror pre-release, but no true mirror lock. Only
> the 2000 series cameras do.
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000
Subject: Re: Hassy 500EL
> Go onto ebay and look at the 9 volt battery replacements.
>
> For example:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=1204246521
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001
From: Jim Stewart jstewart@jkmicro.com
Subject: Re: Source for EL side socket plugs
> I tried the usual source in the USA for electronic parts (Radio Shack) and
> they do not carry plugs to fit into the 5 pin connection on the side of my
> 500 EL. They have 5 pin plugs but arranged in a 180 degree arc instead of
> the 270 degree arc on the 500 EL. Does anyone have a source (mail order or
> internet) for these plugs ? I want to make an electronic release and a
> radio-controlled release using a salvage Polaroid radio release.
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001
From: ARDPHOTO@aol.com
Subject: Re: Source for EL side socket plugs
I got mine from Mouser Electronics
www.mouser.com 800-346-6873 Nice people and a great catalog. I doubt they
know anything about Hassie but the catalog shows DIN plugs an they will
answer questions.
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl
Date: Sun Feb 11 2001
[1] Re: Hassey 500EL/M - cheap?
> I've been surfing e-bay for a couple weeks and noticed some Hasselblad
> 500EL/M cameras were selling for reasonable prices. For example, one
> with a back, 80m lens, finder, battery and charger sold for under $800,
> and a body-and-motor for about $550.
>
> Is there something I'm missing here? A hidden liability?
From: "M. P. Brennan" mpbrennan@hotmail.com
Date: Sun Feb 11 2001
[1] Re: Hassey 500EL/M - cheap?
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001
From: Jim McDonough jmcdonough@prodigy.net
Subject: Source for EL side socket plugs
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001
From: Mark Greenberg markg@idworld.net
Subject: RE: Battery for ELX
Mark
Mark Greenberg Photography
San Antonio, Texas
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000
From: Eduard Crombie on7ce@freegates.be
Subject: RE: 500 ELM/ELX
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: load or lock for the " L" of the 500 EL/M ?
> thanks a lot for yours so fast responses,
> but when I need to charge the camera,
> I must put on L or not ?
>
> tanks for your attention,
> etienne,
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/manual.txt
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 500 ELM with Black Body
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002
James Cooke wrote:
> Can anybody tell me anything about this? Is this a good general camera for
a
> startup?
If you do want a motor, yes.
The motor is not an add-on thing, but permanently attached, making the
camera a bit on the heavy and bulky side for use as a general purpose
camera. But that would also depend on what "general" means, so only you can
decide whether or not it is an issue.
The EL/M models do use one or two rechargeable batteries that are recharged
inside the camera (there was a battery compartment available allowing
loading the batteries while the camera is in use). Varta, the original
manufacturer of these batteries has stopped production a time ago. But there
are alternatives, including letting Hasselblad adapt the camera so it takes
regular AA batteries. So if you do go for an EL/M, make sure it has at least
one good battery with it and, of course, a recharge unit.
Newer EL models, starting with the 553 ELX, take 5 AA batteries instead.
If you do not need a motor, you could consider any of the 500 C/M, 503 CX,
503 CXi (this one will take the add-on CW motor), 501 C, or 501CM models.
The current model, 503 CW, will accept an add-on motor. Apart from the
CX/CXi and CW models offering TTL flash control as well, none of these
models have any electronics. So no batteries needed, not even for TTL flash
control.
The first generation 500 series Hasselblad cameras (500 C and 500 EL) do not
have interchangeable focussing screens. The original screens fitted are a
bit dim. The current Acute Matte screens are much better. So it would be
best to avoid these early cameras (the screen can be changed by a Hasselblad
repair center, but it will cost).
The next generation, marked by the "/M" added to the type descriptor, (so
they are 500 C/M and 500 EL/M) have user interchangeable screens.
TTL flash control was added in the models marked with X, 503 CX and 500 ELX.
The later models, 503 CXi, 553 ELX, 553 ELD and 503 CW too have TTL flash
control.
The original Hasselblad models have a rather short mirror. This means that
when using longer lenses, or when using extension tubes or bellows, there is
some vignetting in the upper part of the viewfinder (and viewfinder only! No
vignetting on film). Though you get used to it very quick, it can be
annoying. The 500 ELX was the first model having a larger, non-vignetting
mirror. Other models followed: 553 ELX, 553 ELD, 503 CW and 501 CM.
All the others models have the short mirror.
> Are things like lenses and IR-releases available for it?
Any lens made for Hasselblad since 1957 will fit any of the 500 series
models, with the exception of the F/FE range, which are intended for the
focal plane shutter bodies from the 2000 and 200 series models.
The lenses made for the 500 series have a built-in leaf shutter. There are 3
generations of these lenses, "C", "CF" and (current) "CFi/CFE".
The oldest C lenses have a Synchro Compur shutter. They come in "chrome" and
"black" finish. The early C lenses (mostly chrome finish) are single coated,
the later (mostly black finish) have T* multicoating.
The CF lenses differ from C lenses in ergonomics. Their Prontor shutter
mechanically is not very different (if at all) from the Synchro Compur. They
are much easier to use. Optical designs have remained largely unchanged,
(only the 40 mm and 500 mm lenses were redesigned) so there is no difference
in image quality.
The latest series CFi/CFE lenses have improved ergonomics again. Optically
they are still the same. CFE lenses have electronic databus contacts so they
can be coupled to the electronics of the 200 series cameras.
Focal lengths available are 40, 50, 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 250, 350 and 500
mm.
The CW motor available for the 503 CXi and 503 CW models come with an IR
remote control.
The current 553 ELD model too can be used with an IR remote control.
From: "Gary Todoroff" datamaster@humboldt1.com>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] 500 ELX
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001
According to the EL/M manual, pins 1 and 3 are used to release the shutter.
I built a remote cord using these pins with a male DIN plug and a Radio
Shack push-button switch. Works great!
Gary Todoroff
> Hi all - anyone out there know the pin connections for the battery charger
> DIN socket on a 500ELX? I think there are connections to trip the shutter
> from there. Thanks in advance.
>
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] New to this group!
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001
Steve Gullick wrote:
> I have just bought ( cheap) a EL/M. It has no batteries, so I have sent
off
> for one of those 9volt thingies, but at present the mirror is locked up.
> From my experience of Olympus, this may be a very ominous sign, but I dont
> know.
You can recycle the camera (lower the mirror) by inserting a D-cell battery
(+-terminal first). It will not fit, i.e. you can not put the battery cover
on, but you should be able to use the cover to make contact between the
battery terminal and the fuse. With the camera set to "O" (small lever) this
should be enough to bring the mirror down slowly.
> Also, can anyone give me any idea what the variuos knobs etc. do?
The small "LOT"-lever is the camera's main switch.
"L" means "Locked". Set to "L", the release is blocked (mechanically. When
putting pressure on the release button, the release magnet still draws
current, so you can run batteries down).
"O" means "Ordinary". Set to "O" to use the camera.
"T" menas "Time". Setting the lever to "T" releases the camera, and keeps
the camera in this state until you put the lever back to "L".
The dial-settings are:
"AS" - Automatic + Speed
"A" - Automatic
"O" - Ordinary
"S" - Speed
"SR" - Spreed Repeat
"O" is the setting normally used. Make sure you keep the release button
depressed until the lens shutter has completed the exposure. Important when
doing longish exposures (1/15 and longer).
"Speed" is prerelease. Turning the dial to "S" prereleases the camera: the
mirror is flipped up, the lens shutter and aperture are closed, and the
auxillary shutter is opened. The dial springs back to "O". You then complete
the cycle using the release button.
"Speed Repeat" does the same, but the dial doesn't spring back (you will
have to do that manually when you're done using SR). The camera does the
same as in "S"-mode, except after completing the cycle (which includes
lowering the mirror !!!) it prereleases again.
In "Automatic" mode the camera continues exposing frames until you remove
pressure from the release button.
"Automatic Speed" does the same, but it prereleases the camera (???) before
each subsequent exposure. This is a somewhat silly mode, since it does
return the mirror between shots, just as in "Automatic" mode. The only
difference is that it starts and ends up prereleased.
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002
Subject: Re: [HUG] 500EL Deal?
From: Peter Rosenthal petroffski@mac.com>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
> Hi Hassy users,
>
> I have the opportunity to purchase a Hassy 500EL body for $225.00. It is in
> good working order. My question is this body still repairable by Hassy
> service centers and will there still be parts for this body? I know that
> the older body parts will no longer be manufacturered. Is it worth buying?
> Thanks
Frank-
This is a great deal! There are some things you should ask about tho. The
motor bushings on this camera can tend to wear out over the decades. As
they get worn they can make a tremendous amount of noise. It's kind of a
rattling/whirring noise. If it's relatively quiet then you are probably out
of the woods. Make sure all the modes work properly. If it's in relatively
good shape and hasn't a lot of film through it, it should last for a VERY
long time. While they can malfunction occasionally, none of the parts in
this camera have a history of breaking so I don't believe that parts
availability should concern you. Especially for the price! I've yet to come
across one that wasn't repairable. Find two new battery packs, install them
and go!
Peter
--
Peter Rosenthal
PR Camera Repair
111 E. Aspen #1
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
928 779-5263
From: "Gary Todoroff" datamaster@humboldt1.com>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] 500EL Deal?
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002
My spare ELM sounds like a meat grinder, so I only use it occasionally for
out-the-window shots from the airplane when doing aerial shots with the main
camera (another ELM) in the vertical mount. The airplane is too noisy to
hear the worn ELM grinding away, so I can pretend that it works just fine. A
couple years ago, repair cost was estimated at about $600 (new motor, side
plate, etc), more than the value of a used ELM. But it just keeps on
working.
It is definitely not the camera for quiet wildlife shots, Peter's
"rattling/whirring noise" being a bit of an understatement!
Regards,
Gary Todoroff
> This is a great deal! There are some things you should ask about tho.
The
> motor bushings on this camera can tend to wear out over the decades. As
> they get worn they can make a tremendous amount of noise. It's kind of a
> rattling/whirring noise
> Peter Rosenthal
> PR Camera Repair
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] 500EL Deal?
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002
Frank Lew wrote:
> Gary, Thanks for the 500EL info. This camera does make a whirring noise
but
> no rattling. Just wondering about the control knob and what does the
> intials mean (AS, A, O, S, SR). Is there any info out on the net about
> finding a old instruction booklet or does Wildi contain all the info I
need
> about this camera body? Thanks
Last question first: yes. You will find all you need to know in Wildi.
"A" stands for Automatic. In the case of a Hasselblad EL it means the camera
will continue to expose frames until you lift your finger from the release.
"S" stands for Speed. It is an alias for pre-release (close the aperture and
shutter, flip up the mirror and open the auxillary shutter).
The dial will return to "O" when set to "S" immediately, so the camera will
end in normal mode.
"O" stands for Ordinary. It works like any other camera, taking one frame at
a time.
"R" stands for Repeat.
When set to "SR", the camera will first pre-release, wait for you to press
the shutter release, make one exposure, and cycle the camera, ending in
pre-release state again. Mind you, the mirror does not stay up, it will go
down and flip up again, providing all vibrations you were hoping to miss by
using "S" mode.
"AS" really qualifies as silly mode. The camera will pre-release and expose
frames for as long as you keep the release depressed, and end up in
pre-release mode, meanwhile flipping the mirror up and down as if you were
using plain "A" mode.
From: "Gary Todoroff" datamaster@humboldt1.com>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] 500EL Deal?
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002
Frank - Q.G. de Bakker did a good job of describing all the modes, and the
Wildi book covers a lot on the EL - I recommend it. The only special mode I
use on my ELM is "S" in order to get the mirror up and avoid vibrations.
Have your magazine slide handy though. If you change your mind on the shot
or the camera or subject moves, the only way to not waste a frame of film
and get the mirror down is to remove the film magazine and fire the shutter.
BTW, I found the 9 volt battery adapter to be very handy, and it seems to
provide a bit more "oomph" to my noisy ELM than the standard Varta
rechargeable battery. You can always find the 9v adapter on ebay.
Regards,
Gary Todoroff
From: Frank Lew
> Gary, Thanks for the 500EL info. This camera does make a whirring noise
but
> no rattling. Just wondering about the control knob and what does the
> intials mean (AS, A, O, S, SR). Is there any info out on the net about
> finding a old instruction booklet or does Wildi contain all the info I
need
> about this camera body? Thanks
From: Ulf Sjogren ulf.sjogren@mbox310.swipnet.se>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Subject: Re: [HUG] Value of EL ELM Cameras WHY SO LOW?
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001
Even if your name invites me to answar in Swedish maybe it is better
not. I think that the decline in prices depends on the bulkiness of the
EL series. It was meant for the pro (=3D studio) market. The C and F =
series are rather handy cameras even compared with modern 35 mm cameras
and in the terrain box you will not carry more than what is necessary .
Have you tried a Nikon F5? It is easy to bring a "ordinary" Hasselblad
out in the nature, and there you seldom have the real need for a winder.
And the second hand market is mostly built up on amateurs. Even if they
are very interested and good photographers they/we don't need the
winder and the job it is carrying that equipment around and taking care
if the rather expensive batteries. But in case we want a winder camera
of course we appreciate the EL series low price...;-)
Ulf
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Mark Kronquist" mak@teleport.com>
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 9:42 PM
Subject: [HUG] Value of EL ELM Cameras WHY SO LOW?
> Here's a question for the world. Why have Hasselblad EL EL/M cameras crashed
> through the floor value wise while 500c cameras are holding their value much
> better?
>
> The switch to digital shouldn't matter much because EL series cameras use
> digital backs as well...
>
> Batteries should not be an issue because of the 9V and NiMH alternatives...
>
> BTW If anyone wants one I have an EX/EX+ EL/M w WI NiMH and Charger TTE10594
> FS $275 plus postage Thanks Mark mak@teleport.com
From: "Stein" stein@bekkers.com.au
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: [HUG] Value of EL ELM Cameras WHY SO LOW?
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001
Dear Friends,
If you are approached by a man in the street with a large canvas bag
filled with Hasselblad ELM and ELX cameras and he tries to sell them to you
for a remarkably low price, you should:
1. Carefully examine them.
2. Cycle them through their paces.
3. Ask to see proof that he owns them.
4. Buy them.
The worries that list members have expressed about batteries are fairly
easy to allay - I found a local battery maker that made up replacement
batteries for my ELX at about US $ 32 each brand new - I bought 4 of them.
When the shop opens up again after summer holidays I will enquire when the
next batch of batteries will be produced and will notify the list.
My new batteries are cycling like a beauty - and the camera is all that
a studio shooter needs. In my case I am doing dance and glamour photos so it
can sit atop a studio stand and the magic electric release button and
instant recycling means that I am getting better rythym when shooting.
Remember also that if you are in a studio situation you can supply the
camera from a mains-to-DC power pack and shoot all day.
Keep the 500 C/M for field work.
Final note for stereo photographers - two EL bodies sit side-by-side on
a spacing bar at just about the right interpupil distance. You can trigger
both with one electrical impulse and if the studio lighting is strobe, a
shutter speed of 1/60 will allow the exposure to be done by the flash while
the cameras are open - if there is a slight discrepancy in the timing. 56mm
x 56mm square colour contact prints on glossy paper mounted in a Holmes card
viewer is wonderful. Viewers available new from a firm in the USA. Throw
away your Sputnik!
Uncle Dick
Richard
Broken Links:
EL/ELM Battery Replacements page was at (before 2/2003):
http://www.christopherglenn.com/powersource/files/pshasselblad.html