Related Links:
From: Ken Eng kseng@erols.com
Subject: Response to Problem with Kiev 88
Date: 1998-03-03
I don't have any experience with the Kiev 88, but I've just purchased an
old Hasselblad 500C/M outfit. I've had a similar experience with what was
described, only I was using B&W; film.
The cause of the light smudges was light leaking thru the dark slide slot
on the film magazine. I understand that the Kiev 88 is a Russian copy of
the Hasselblad 500 series and I could imagine that the Kiev film magazines
are built the same way. Take the magazine and hold it to a light and try
to look for the light thru the slot.
If you see light, that's what's causing your problem! Because of the age of my Hassy, the foam and light seals had deteriorated. I took the magazine to the local Hassy fix-it shop and they re-sealed the slot for $25. Now it works fine! I hope you didn't go ahead and paint the interior because this is highly unnecessary.
*Ken*
From: Uli Volp cuv20@cam.ac.uk
Subject: Response to Kiev Magazine on Hasselblad ?
Date: 1998-03-04
Ulrik - Kiev made RFH's for Hasselblads until recently. Basically, they were modified Kiev 88 magazines. I saw them advertised in Germany for DM 298 a couple of years ago, but apparently they've been discontinued. Maybe you are lucky and find some second-hand.
From: see.signature@bottom.com (gary gaugler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 500CM - any good?
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998
Light leaks are likely with an old magazine that has not been
serviced. You can plan on spending about $50-$80 to have the mag
serviced and the light seal replaced. It will then last for many
years. running a roll of film thru it right away will indeed tell if
there is a leak. You will have to decide if it is cost effective to
negotiate this before or after the deal. Also make sure that the mag
has a matching insert. Check the last 3 digits of the mag serial
number. These numbers must be on the insert (towards the end where
the film roll clamps are located) and match the 3 digits on the mag.
Walk away if not.
Make sure that the pre-release brings the mirror up all the way and
that the aux shutter fully opens. If either are not right, walk away.
Cycle the body a dozen times or so and listen for quirks. Each
release should be solid. Then put the lens on the body (both must be
cocked). Cycle again and make sure the shutter works at all speeds.
1 second and half second are really the tell tale speeds. The buzzing
sound should be pretty even for the duration of the exposure time.
Gary Gaugler
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998
From: Tom Campbell tcphoto@bellsouth.net
To: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: Re: How to detect cause of light leaks in used back.
Al
Sounds like a problem I had. It was caused by a leak (tear?) in the
felt light trap due to a damaged dark slide.
The way I tested was to put a roll in the camera, take it outside on a
bright day and wait varying lengths of time between exposures. The
longer the film stayed in the same exposed position, the worse the
fogging got, and when the camera was placed with the slide area towards
the sun, the problem got very bad, very quickly, especially with
"holding times of >30 sec. Also, with the dark slide in place and
several blank frames "exposed", there was no leakage visible.
I had mine fixed through the local store, so I really don't know any
repair places to reco...I'm sure there'll be some opinion there
Be SURE to replace the dark slide when you have the repair made!!
Now if we HAD a few more bright days!
Tom
From: John Gaasland kayak@cco.net
My GS645 is in the shop with a light leak. They are having a hard time
finding it. They replaced all the door seals and that didn't work. Now
they have sent away for the seal for the bellows to try that. I was
wondering if any other Fuji folder owner's have had this problem?
Thanks, John Gaasland.
From: "Glenn Stewart (Arizona)" gstewart@inficad.com
I bought mine from Mamiya and wasn't put off by the price. If I recall,
it was less than $10 for the set. See my web site for info on how to do
the replacement. The technique I describe for replacing mirror damping
foam works for RB backs as well.
Best regards,
Stew
From: Ed Romney eromney@edromney.com
Someone emailed me recently asking how to find and fix a light leak in a
RB67 magazine. Here is what I told him about light leaks and I am
posting it here hoping it will help you all. :
" To find a light leak, go into a dark room and shine a bright light
into the camera through the lens opening . Mask the light with black
paper or tape so it all goes inside the camera. Now look and you can see
where the light is escaping through the cracks. Foam light seals
inside recent cameras are short lived. When they deteriorate the camera
leaks light and fogs film. Crumbs from the ruined foam often stick in the
shutter and other parts necessitating a cleaning. Older cameras used
black dyed cotton string cemented into cracks as light seals. This is
best. Look at one to see how it is done. You can seal a recent camera
this way too. The foam material to make modern light seals can be best
obtained by cutting up a computer mouse pad. "
Since fasiled foam seals are common and this question is asked of me
many times, I think posting this data will help. Best wishes...Ed
Romney
From: "Mike" NEDSNAKE@email.msn.com
Most light leaks will occur along the dark slide opening. Second most
commom place is the hinge area. Also check to see if the film is rolling
up tight. Parts to repair these problems are available from Mamiya America.
Mike
From: VO videonic@yahoo.com
If you are handyman, you can do that by youself. The light trap can be order
direct at Hasselblad part dept., that cost only $6.00 US.
From: Don Feinberg donf@intercall.net
I have found that the light trap problems can be handled by any competent
Hassy
mechanic for cheap. As was said, the materials are less than about US$10.
BTW, the light trap in the Kiev backs is identical; the Hassy material will
solve the light leaks there, also (i.e., the Hassy backs and the Kiev backs
seem bug-for-bug compatible...
I was able to fix one myself once using some fibrous nylon material. It was
pretty fussy to do, but not all that difficult.
From: stefan poag stefan@icon-stl.net
Dear Ulrik; I had the exact same problem with my Hasse 12
back (earlier version of a-12 -- some call it a "tube" back). I unscrewed
the seven or so screws that held the back plate on in careful order,
kepping the back darkslide up. I took the back plate off by lifting it
straight up and keeping the back level -- there were some parts that were
just resting in place and I did not want them to fall out.
The light trap was on the side where the dark slide goes in--the foam on
it had rotted away. I cleaned the glue residue and foam off with bestine
and glued a strip of black velvet in place of the foam, replaced the light
trap in place and fastened the plate back on over this using the screws in
the same order that I took them out in. I have carried the hasse with the
12 back on it loaded with asa 400 film around in the daylight with the
darkslide removed all day and did not get the annoying light streak down
the side of my film. I am not sure if the light trap for the 12 back is
the same as the a-12; if anyone knows please email me. Now that I know
what this part is callled I will order it from Hasselblad. please don't
attempt this unless you are really brave or are very mechanically
inclined.
From: ken wong kwong@sat-inc.com
the light strap for the 12 and A12 back are identical.
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998
Cyrus,
Sorry to hear about your light leak. However, it should be possible to
detect and correct the problem.
Can you describe the fogged negatives in detail? If you take pictures
with the prism at the high point, a dark slide leak would probably come
from the side. Loose mounting hooks at the bottom of the camera might
show as light coming from the top of the final print/transparency. How
bright was your camera handling scenario? As someone pointed out,
studio use might not reveal trouble, where an extended session in
outdoors would.
While I love my Hasselblad, I have found that there are at least two
major sources of light leaks in the back, inherent in the design. The dark
slide is the most common. However, a simple "hold up to the light" test
will reveal this. With the back unloaded and the dark slide out, hold the
back with the slide aperature toward the light, and see how much
comes through.
The second trouble I have found is that the hooks on the body may not
hold the back close enough to the body to prevent light coming through.
This can also be shown by holding the camera and back to the light.
With the prism removed, place the hooks toward the light, then release
the back catch. Viewing from the back catch toward the hooks, see
how close the back has to come to the catch before light is blocked. If
is about 3/8 ", you are ok. If is 1/8 " or less, you may have a problem.
The 500CM hooks were changed mid-run to a bolt-on affair. I suspect
the reason this was re-designed is that this was a known source of
trouble. It is very easy to bend the hooks. If you have an NPC Polaroid
back, according to Gil Ghiteleman, it may bend the hooks when new.
I've found that in critical studio shoots, you are switching backs all the
time. Also, I see how poorly the NPC really fits.
If your dark slide is ok, but the back/body fit is poor, you can still get
good pictures if you wait to the last moment to pull the dark slide and
then quickly re-insert it.
I suggest you bench check your body/backs for as above, then proceed
to expose a roll of film outdoors, under similar conditions to the failure
you observed. You might consider adjusting your technique to make
one exposure quickly, then let the film sit for a few minutes without the
benefit of the inserted dark slide. This should show more fogging on
one picture than the other. If the fogging is outside the frame, you have
a different problem. The quickest way to conduct the test would
probably be to shoot a roll of C41 color neg or C41 B&W;, and have it
souped at the corner. A "no-cut" job will let you see the most.
Buying used gear is a major challenge. As some people say, you might
want to figure the cost of a complete overhaul in every purchase.
Good luck,
Peter
"Cyrus Gardner" gardner@pop-list.cais.com 06/24/98 03:29pm
I bought a used A12 through r.p.m. from one Erick Gfeller. He
described it as Ex+ and in "great shape," but missing the dark
slide. After I obtained a new slide from B&H; I ran one roll of film
through. It has a horrific light leak. In response to my complaint,
he maintains that it was in perfect working order when he sent it,
implying that I somehow caused the leak. The local pro shop just
laughed at that, but I'd like to double check. Could I have caused
the light leak by mishandling the slide or something? Thanks in
advance, Cyrus Gardner
Cyrus Gardner
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998
Hi everyone-
I've bought many used pieces from the r.p.m and usually send the pieces out
for a CLA; in particular A12 and A24 backs. These develop light leaks
because the felt light trap that the dark slide fits through wears out.
One can usually tell if you take the dark slide out and shine a penlight at
an angle into the dark slide slot, if you see any light...it's a light
leak, very common. Depending upon the price you paid, it might not be a
case of mis-representation. Although why someone would say it works great,
yet sells a back without a dark slide... doesn't really indicate that it
was being used. I don't think you could've caused the light leak, but it
could've been just waiting to happen. Depends on where the seller might
have used it too; if it's in a studio, a light leak might not have been
detectable. If you were shooting in direct sunshine, a light leak is more
apt to show up.
my 2 cents, and you get what you pay for.
Bob Keene
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998
I can fix these things, but someone normal would have had a repair bill
close to $600. Cyrus, the trap seal is very easy to fix yourself. If you
have it done for you, it should not cost over $25.
I have heard of people getting stuck for as much as $90 to do a trap
seal. This is robbery-they should just stick a gun in your ribs and rob
you.
I am now in the process of making a little pamphlet that will go through
all the magazines, screw by screw, with a photo for each step of the
way. This little pamplet will show you how to correct each and every
problem that I have run across in my 30 plus years being into
Hasselblad. I have not decided what to charge for it as yet, but am
thinking about $75-this cost would more than be paid for by the first
repair you make on a magazine. When it is ready, I will announce it on
this forum. With the info that will be given, even a little child would
be able to take care of all the magazine problems.
Dick
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998
I fixed my light leaking 200 with the non-catching side of velcro. It
works fine now. I simply sliced it into three strips. And then I cut
those into 8 pieces to do the job. Four where the back makes contact with
the body and 4 where the body intersects with the lens (this part was
probably not necessary). My felt there was hanging on by a thread. I did
have to remove the top strip as I was getting a visible stripe across the
bottom of the film.
This thing used to leak from the top to the bottom of each shot.
Tony Graham
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998
Has anyone tried adhesive backed flocking or is that too thin. Should be
able to find it at either an arts and crafts store or a hobby store. They
also make glue on stuff where you paint the glue on and then sprinkle the
flocking material on top. Here's an online hobby shop that sells the
adhesive backed stuff.
http://www.djhobby.com/catalog/mh-decalsdetailing/KENSKS.html I have no idea
what size this stuff is or what it looks like. I would also think that
someplace that sells telescope making supplies might have the stuff.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Contact Hasselblad. About three years ago I bought the seals from them and
replaced them. It was suprisingly inexpensive. The job is not too
difficult - you will need small screwdrivers. The only trick is to get the
dark-slide latching levers properly in place when you put the faceplate
back on.
From: "Mike" NEDSNAKE@email.msn.com
Load a NEW roll of film 120 in the back JUST like your going to shoot.
Wind to the the first frame (# 1) then with a #2 pencil draw a short
vertical down each side it the opening on the front of the back. Release
the back... wind to the next frame and repeat. Continue this process thru
the last frame. The remove the film, unroll it and look at the space
between the pencil lines. The spacing may vary a little, this is normal,
but they should be fairly equal along the length of the roll.
Under the counter dial is a dividing plate....if your seeing overlapping
frames then the dividing plate needs to be cleaned OR replaced id cleaning
doesnt do the job.
You can do this same test on any still film camera or magazine.
Mike
From Medium Format Digest:
About a month ago I had a light leak in both of my Mamiya 645's. I called
my tech and he wanted 70.00 each to repair them. I called Mamiya Parts and
purchased the new gaskets for both cameras for 13.00. They also said you
could use nail polish remover or acetone to remove the old gasket
material. I used contact cement shot thru a syringe to replace them and
aside from the time involved and I do mean TIME involved it worked fine
and I did both cameras in a day.
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
Well, as far as the blackout velvet goes, I have found another good
source.
Edmund Scientific Company
Thought the group would like to know.
Charlie Frazier
From: r0b3rt57@aol.com (R0b3rt57)
My neopreen mousepad keeps getting smaller because I keep cutting small
pieces off of it to use as replacement light seals in various cameras.I
don't have a kowa,but I have used it in others.Also look at older cameras
from europe....they used black yarn.The point is that with a little
thought,anyone can fix almost anything with things readily available
instead of relying on a specialist....look at what you need,then look
around at what you have!!!!!good luck
From Kiev Mailing List:
Hi Jan,
I have replaced both new and old style light traps/felt. Which do you
have? Look around in your area for a Hasselblad dealer or professional
camera shop that has Hasselblad cameras. Normally they keep a small
stock of light traps and foil on hand. It should cost no more than
$20.00.
It's a matter of removing the screws holding the backplate. Once removed,
the plate comes off exposing the trap and foil. The Hasselbad traps need
to be slightly trimmed to match the Kiev traps. Remove the old and
replace with the trimed new. Now if this is the new style back let me
know since I need to explain in more detail.
Both my new backs started leaking light after two rolls. I opened them
up and found that there was no felt/foam. I am assuming that this is the
design, and a very poor one. I have corrected that so that it does have
felt/foam strip.
As far as your problems with smearing, perhaps the film is releasing its
winding torque. Does this occur if you take a picture one right after
another, or does it matter. Perhaps after the film advance, the film is
so tight on the advance spool that it rewinds itself? check the advance
spool winder to make sure that it only rotates in one direction and it can
rotate in the other.
-chris
http://www.stargal.net
From: Uwe Mader
Subject: Fuji GS645 light leak
Date: 1998-03-11
rec.photo.equipment.large-format
From: Bruce McLaughlin
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: jaybell@aol.com (Jaybell)
[1] Re: Rollfilm question on light damage
Date: Sun Mar 15 15:08:27 CST 1998
>This may seem like a silly question
There are really no sill y questions - only silly answers, and I hope this
isn't one of those!
Roll film is protected from light by being wrapped tightly around the
spoo,l wth the backing paper wrapped around the film. (On 120 film the
backing paper runs the entire lenght of the film, on 220 film the backing
paper is just taped at the beginning and end of the film, for reasons of
total thickness).
At the top and bottom on the spool there is a black plastic disc to prevent
light egress down the sides of the roll. It is important to ensure, when
removing the film from the camera that the film is kept tightly wrapped, not
allowed to slacken, as it is just this tightness that keeps the light
out.
Having said this, it is more important to load and unload rollfilm in
subdued light than 35mm film, and to store exposed rolls in a light tight
bag or container. I'm sure every medium format shooter has at some time or
other seen some red fogging at the top or bottom of the last frames of
mis- handled roll.
I hope this answers your question...
John Bellenis Photography
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Need light seals for RB67 backs
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998
R.S. Paulson wrote:
> The light seals on several of my RB67 backs are deteriorating. Does anyone
> know of an economical source for the material? I bought some from Mamiya
> when refurbishing my camera.... but as I remember, they charged quite a lot
> for a few very small pieces of material. Thanks!
--
Photo Web pages: http://www.inficad.com/~gstewart
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Fixing light leaks in cameras
Date: Sat, 23 May 1998
Subject: RB magazine light leaks
Date: Sat, 23 May 1998
RB service tech for 20 years.
Subject: Response to Hasselblad magazine light trap relacement
Date: 1998-06-04
Subject: Response to Hasselblad magazine light trap relacement
Date: 1998-06-08
Subject: Response to Hasselblad magazine light trap relacement
Date: 1998-06-08
Subject: Response to Hasselblad magazine light trap relacement
Date: 1998-06-09
From: Peter Klosky PKlosky@bdm.com
Subject: Cause of Light Leak in Used A12 -Reply
Kormendi\Gardner Partners
From: Bob Keene/Karen Shehade kabob@tiac.net
Subject: Re: Cause of Light Leak in Used A12
>I bought a used A12 through r.p.m. from one Erick Gfeller. He
>described it as Ex+ and in "great shape," but missing the dark
>slide. After I obtained a new slide from B&H; I ran one roll of film
>through. It has a horrific light leak. In response to my complaint,
>he maintains that it was in perfect working order when he sent it,
>implying that I somehow caused the leak. The local pro shop just
>laughed at that, but I'd like to double check. Could I have caused
>the light leak by mishandling the slide or something? Thanks in
>advance, Cyrus Gardner
>Cyrus Gardner
>Kormendi\Gardner Partners
From: helenadick@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Cause of Light Leak in Used A12
From: Tony Graham Tony.Graham@uni-c.dk
Subject: Re: [KOML] Light leak at dark slide.
phone- +45 35878925
From: Jim Richey jrichey@highmark.com
Subject: Re: [KOML] Light leak at dark slide.
From: david_rowland@advisories.com (David Rowland)
[1] Re: Light gasket for Hasselblad 1000F Film Back
Date: Tue Jul 21 18:14:16 CDT 1998
Subject: Re: Mamiya Press negative spacing & how to test
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998
From: Michael Dean sacheez@swbell.net
Subject: Response to light sealing compounds
Date: 1998-09-18
From: "Frazier, Charlie" Frazier.Charles@PSS.Boeing.com
Subject: RE: [KOML] Light leak at dark slide.
609-573-6250
Industrial Optics Division
has item F70621, Self adhesive black out material (velvet), 20" x 30"
sheet is $8.50 plus shipping.
> "Machines should work, people should think"
>
Email frazier.charles@pss.boeing.com
Mail Stop 4K-51 Bld 7-251 (Riverside) 21H8-1
Pager 645-3421 Desk 206-655-4775
> Personal Alpha Pager : mailto:2066600429@mobile.att.net
>
> ----------
> From: Michael Scott[SMTP:MichaelScott7@compuserve.com]
> Reply To: Koni-Omega Mailing List
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 1998 20:22
> To: Koni-Omega Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [KOML] Light leak at dark slide.
>
> Tony,
>
> Did you use this for a dark slide light leak or for the fixed light
> baffles?
>
> Michael.
>
> Original message from Tony Graham on 6/26/98:
>
>
> I fixed my light leaking 200 with the non-catching side of velcro. It
> works fine now. I simply sliced it into three strips. And then I cut
> those into 8 pieces to do the job. Four where the back makes contact
> with
> the body and 4 where the body intersects with the lens (this part was
> probably not necessary). My felt there
> was hanging on by a thread. I did have to
> remove the top strip as I was getting a visible stripe across the
> bottom
> of the film.
>
>
> This thing used to leak from the top to the bottom of each shot.
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Light leaks
Date: 18 Oct 1998
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000
From: Christopher Kovacs ckovacs@stargal.net
Subject: Back Repair
Broken Links:
Removing Flare (from Body Reflections, Leaks..) on Kiev 88
page was at http://ducque.simplenet.com/tech/k88f.htm