Though they are most likely indigenous to the area surrounding the Black Sea, apples have been grown in New England as early as the mid 1600's. Even Benjamin Franklin, who is said to have been an avid farmer and a great promoter of the apple, is said to have had an apple orchard on his land. And let us not forget the famed John Chapman, who eventually became known as Johnny Appleseed because of his penchant for walking across this great land of ours dressed in tattered clothing and armed with nothing more than sacks of apple seeds which he planted by the grove. (It sounds as if good ol' Johnny was a little eccentric and socially challenged.) None the less, apples flourished in the temperate climate of the northern states, and continue to do so. In fact, apples, and pies made with them, have become so ingrained into our culture that the phrase "as American as apple pie" was coined.

Apples, like many fruits, can be utilized in almost any preparation, from soups and sandwiches to savory entrees. Though the area in which apples truly shine is of course desserts, and one of my personal favorites is the famed Tarte Tatin. What's interesting about this French upside down apple tart is the story behind it. This particular apple tart takes its name from the two Tatin sisters who owned a small hotel in the Loire valley of France in the beginning of this century. According to legend, the Hotel Tatin, which was in the little town Lamotte-Beuvron, stood close to the train station. The newly constructed line from Paris brought a fair share of sophisticated clientele to the hotel each day. Trying to impress this new influx of sophisticates, and having a wood-fired stove of old design—one without an oven—they developed a tart made from local apples, which was baked upside-down. This tart was "baked" on top of the stove under a covered dome, and the reason was this: If the delicate pastry came into direct contact with the heat of their wood-fired stove it would most definitely burn before the apples were sufficiently cooked. By placing the apples in the pan first, along with some butter and sugar, and then topping it with the pastry, both the apples and pastry cooked properly while the butter and sugar formed a caramel. Once this process was complete, the tart was inverted onto a plate, right side up. Ingenious pair, those Tatin sisters. Though Tart Tatin is still baked upside-down today, part of the process is done so in a conventional oven with the same, if not more consistent, results. These two sisters became quite famous for their tart, and evidently made their living off of it. Interestingly enough, this took place in an era when it wasn’t all that common for women to be so independent. The evidence—or should we say prejudice—is apparent in the original title of the tart which can be found in somewhat older French recipe books: "la tarte des demoiselles Tatin," (the tart of two unmarried women named Tatin).

Just as the old adage suggests ("an apple a day keeps the doctor away"), apples are very good for you. On average, one medium sized apple has only about 80 calories, contain natural fruit sugar, potassium, vitamins A and C, and more than 20% of your daily-recommended intake of dietary fiber. Apples do not contain any fats, cholesterol or sodium; they are more than 80% water. Much of the vitamins, fiber and other nutrients are located in the skin. Thus, when you eat a raw apple—the best way to consume apples—do not remove the skin. Doing so will cut away almost 1/3 of the vitamin C content.

Though apples are available year round, reasonably priced and of good quality, they are at their peak during late summer and early fall. In fact, October is National Apple Month. Select apples that are firm and free of bruises or dents; they, of course, should have an overt fruity, apple fragrance. Apples should be stored in a cool dark place, those kept in refrigeration will last up to ten times longer than if left at room temperature (up to 90 days, according to the US Apple Association). Apples also absorb flavors and odors easily, so it's best to store them away from foods with strong odors. And interestingly, apples emit ethylene, a naturally occurring gas that encourages ripening. Thus, it's best to store apples separate from other produce, or in a plastic bag, to prevent them from accelerating the ripening of other fruits and vegetables.

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1-1/2 pounds fresh bratwurst

2 small onions, peeled and sliced thinly

2 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup apple butter

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Heat the oil over high heat in a heavy skillet. Add the bratwurst and cook them until they begin to brown. Sprinkle the onions around the sausage in the pan, turn the sausage and stir the onions until both the sausage and onions are golden brown.

Add the chicken stock and turn the heat down to a low simmer. Cover the pan and cook the sausage for 10 minutes. Stir in the apple butter, salt, pepper and vinegar; cover the pan and cook the sausage for another 10 minutes. Serve with mashed potatoes.

Yield: 2 cups

6-7 large apples

1-1/4 cups brown sugar

1/2 cup water

Peel, core and quarter the apples. Combine them in a heavy-bottomed pot, preferably one with a non-stick coating. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a simmer and cook the apples for 10 minutes. Transfer the cooked apple mixture to a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Transfer the purée back to the same pot.

Over a low flame, cook the apple purée for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, or until it has reduced and become very thick. During the cooking process, stir to apple mixture often to avoid scorching. Transfer the apple butter to a clean jar, refrigerate it, and after it has cooled, cover it tightly. Us apple butter as a spread on toasted bread, or as an ingredient in baked goods or sauces.

(Upside Down Apple Tart)

Yield: 1 tart

6 Granny Smith apples

4 ounces unsalted butter

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 recipe pâte brisée (listed below)

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Peel, core and quarter the apples. Melt the butter and sugar in a 10-inch skillet. Add the apples skin-side down. Over medium-high heat, cook the apples, butter and sugar until the sugar begins to caramelize and turn a rich golden brown, about 15 minutes. Shake the pan often to alleviate sticking. Remove the pan from the heat.

Roll the pâte brisée out to approximately 1/4 inch thick, it should be just larger than the skillet. Carefully cover the apples in the skillet with the dough and push the edges down slightly.

Place the skillet in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes. The tart is done when the dough is a light brown and when you tip the skillet the caramel is a dark brown color. Remove the skillet from the oven and, very carefully, invert the tart onto a large plate. Serve warm or cold with either, whipped cream, crème fraîche or ice cream.

Pâte Brisée

(Tart Dough)

Yield: 1 (10-inch) tart dough

1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

4 ounces cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/4 cup very cold water

Combine the flour, salt, sugar, and butter in a food processor and pulse for approximately 15-20 seconds, or until it resembles coarse cornmeal. With the motor running, add the water; the motor should not run for more than 20 seconds.