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Introduction to CDIP
The Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) is an extensive network for
monitoring waves along the coastlines of the United States, with a
strong emphasis on our nation's Pacific coasts. Since its inception in
1975, the program has produced a vast database of publicly-accessible
environmental data for use by coastal engineers and planners, scientists,
mariners, and marine enthusiasts. The program has also remained at
the forefront of coastal monitoring, developing numerous innovations
in instrumentation, system control and management, computer hardware
and software, field equipment, and installation techniques.
CDIP is operated by the Ocean Engineering Research Group (OERG), part of
the Integrative Oceanography Division (IOD) at Scripps Institution
of Oceanography (SIO).
History and Funding
With seed money from the
California Sea Grant Program, Dr.
Richard J. Seymour and the OERG staff developed a wave data collection
system which could be accessed remotely by normal telephone lines.
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In 1975, Dr. Seymour began what is now called CDIP with a single wave
measurement station at Imperial Beach, California, with funding from
the California
Department of Boating and Waterways (CDBW). In 1977 the
U.S. Army Corps
of Engineers (USACE) began funding CDIP in partnership with
CDBW, and the project quickly expanded. Now the USACE provides the
major share of the program's operating budget. Dr. Robert Guza joined
CDIP as Co-PI in 1991.
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Under the management of David Castel, and more recently Julie Thomas,
the CDIP network has grown
steadily over the years. It has deployed and maintained wave
gauging stations at well over 100 locations. The vast majority of these
stations have been along the Pacific coast of the US, while others
have been situated on the Atlantic coast, the Great Lakes, off
of the islands of Hawaii and Guam.
At some locations, the wave data has been complemented by the
collection of other climatological measures - temperature, winds,
air pressure. In all respects - from sensor reliability to the speed
of data distribution - CDIP has advanced significantly from its beginnings.
In the early years, most of the wave data were collected close to
shore using underwater pressure sensors. This information was transferred
back to SIO over standard phone lines and stored for analysis. The results
of these analyses were distributed to coastal engineers and others in
the oceanographic community via monthly and annual reports.
Not long after its inception - in 1977 - CDIP began to collect directional
wave data using arrays of underwater pressure sensors. Then, in 1978,
non-directional buoys came into use, allowing data collection from
locations further offshore. In the 1980s, use of all these instruments
was expanded to many new locations. It was in the 1990s, however, that
CDIP's operations underwent a wide range of changes.
In the 1990s CDIP first began to use directional buoys. These buoys,
which measure sea surface temperature and wave direction in addition
to wave energy, have become CDIP's primary instrument. By the late
1990s, the frequency of data acquisition for each station increased
to the point that full coverage was achieved. Instead of several
samples of data per day, CDIP began collecting every single second
of data recorded by a sensor. Even more
momentously, in 1996 the program started to make its data available
in real-time over the internet, including the highly popular swell models.
Today, all of CDIP's data and products
are available on the web as soon as they are created.
Since 2000, the group's operations have continued to expand and progress.
Data are now being collected from both the eastern and southern
hemispheres (Guam and Brazil), and data are increasingly collected
directly over the internet, instead of via phone lines. In the years
to come, CDIP will continue to strive to provide the most complete,
accurate, and timely collection of wave and climatological data
possible.
Program Goals
CDIP was established largely in response to a call for the development
of a nearshore wave climatology for the United States which would allow
coastal engineers and planners to make more rational design decisions.
This focus was intensified with the addition of the US Army Corps of
Engineers as a program sponsor. As the steward of the nation's coastal
infrastructure, the USACE requires reliable, long-term wave measurements
for use in planning, designing, and operating coastal projects. Fulfilling
this need remains a central aim of CDIP to this day, one that the group
takes very seriously. Waves are a critical factor in all shore
processes, playing a central role in everything from stresses on coastal
structures to sand transport and beach formation.
Wave data is also used in other research contexts, and CDIP strives to
provide data suitable for these areas of study as well. For instance,
laboratory and analytical research into the physics of wave
generation, propagation, and transformation requires field measurements
for calibration and verification. Similarly, studies of extreme events -
where coastal structures may be damaged, or nearshore activities
disrupted - rely heavily on accurate wave data sets.
CDIP's goals are not, however, limited to supplying the research
community with data. Another central focus of the group's work is
providing realtime wave data to a variety of users. Through the CDIP
website and in cooperation with NOAA's
National Weather Service and
National
Data Buoy Center,
the program's latest measurements are distributed to thousands of
users each and every hour. These users are both professional - harbor
masters, lifeguards, mariners, etc. - and recreational - boaters, surfers
and beach-goers. Through the widespread distribution of this information,
CDIP aims to promote public safety and the responsible use and enjoyment
of our coastal resources.
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