By: Bruce Choate. 1/2005 *UPDATED 3/2007

The completed rear bumper.

Tom AKA Trailcarnage's bumper design

When I was first putting together the idea for a rear bumper, I noticed a lot of overkill going into other designs. Even though I want mine to be strong, I also wanted it to give when needed, so I designed in some crush points that can easily be repaired. It'll be the strongest where I'll be attaching my hitch to tow. The big thing you need to remember is the frame isn't that stout and you don't want the bumper stronger than it, otherwise your frame will bend first. The only bumper that I really liked, was fabricated by Trailcarnage, unfortunately it never was put into production. With the idea's I already had and a few from Tom's, I came up with this design.

Now that I have a good plan of attack, it was time to get started. First there was the material choice. considering that my stock trailer hitch was built out of 3/16", I decided that going any thicker wasn't needed. With a 2x4 rectangle tube 3/16" thick, 4'11" in length. To cut out the hole in the center for a receiver, I first scribed an outline with the hitch material. used a drill press to make 4 holes in the corners and then took a jigsaw to remove the rest of the materials. it was time to construct the frame mounts. First thing was to know what height the bar is going to sit at. If there is no body lift the frame plate bottom can remain level. since I have a 1 1/2" body lift it needed to be adjuste some.

Find center line of bar, then scribe an outline of the hitch. Drill 4 holes at the corners. cut out excess material

Setting the height of the crossbar, then making sure the stock plastic shroud clears.

Now that the height of the bumper was known, it was time to make the mounts. Starting with a 24"x24"x3/16" steel plate. Then measured in 8" on opposite corners, scribed a line and cut it into two. Since I don't have any way of bending the plate, my 4 1/2" grinder with a 1/16 cut-off wheel was used to cut a groove a little over halfway through. The fold was made 4" in, welded together, then notched to clear the body mount. I drilled and slotted the 4 hloes, using my factory receiver hitch as a template. Another slot was cut 6" in, to make the bend to elevate the cross bar.

The 24" X 24" X 3/16" Frame plates.

The frame mounting plates.....Excess material will be trimmed off later.

The plates were bolted into place, the cross bar was aligned and tacked. To make the angle cut on the 2x4, measure in 6" from the bottom then scribe a diagonal like to the top corner.

Everything was tacked together, then removed and fully welded.

Working with compound angles is a PITA

Another view showing the departure angle.

The side was first made out of cardboard, then transfered to a sheet of 11 guage plate. Two plates were then cut together, they were grooved, bent and welded. Now for the tough part, getting the compound angles just right, considering there were no 90 degree angles at this point.

cardboard template and steel plates cut out.

After cutting the groove for the side wings, they need to be bent. The angles are 123.70 degrees for the side and 146.30 for the 1 1/4" strip along the bottom, measuring from the inside.

Grind the taper for side wings and use a cut-off wheel to cut a groove for bending

From the bottom of the 2x4 to the top plate of the side wing is 10". The width of the side wings at the wheel well openning for the Limited is 5' 11 1/4" and the SR5 is 5' 10 1/4", From Center line inside of the 2x4 I put a mark on my jig. measuring to the outer corners of the side wings should be 3' 7 1/2" for the limited.

Here's one of my jigs used to build the bumpers

Two 4"x 12"x 3/16" plates were welded in at the frame mounts, another brace added in to support the wings and a 3/4" drain hole was drilled into the bottom, to prevent sediment build-up inside the frame. The top plate made from 11 guage, to round the corners make sure all the welding is done on the side wings first. Simply pound the plate with a hammer then use a C-clamp to hold it in place before welding.

Plates added and corners rounded

Ready for a test fitting

A piece of angle iron was used to make the mount for the plastic cover. Five retangle notches were cut out and to hold the shroud down, cotter pins were slid into place. The Rockstomper shackle hanger were cheap enough, that the cost/time to fabricate them was a wash. after grinding a 45 degree angle at the base, they were welded to the cross bar. The 2" x 2" receiver bar with a forged collar and chain hoop, were purchased from etrailer. Finally the top plate was trimmed off with some weather stripping from jcwhitney

Painted and ready to install the plastic shroud

The final step wasn't completed until the exhaust was re-done at a later date. A 4" hole was cut through the lower right wing and a 1" ring was welded in for support. The down facing pipe will reduce the water from back flowing into the exhaust system.

Exhaust relocated

Ok I added a links for donations, so feel free to donate any amount, if these plans helped you in building your bumper. I'm still adding to this page, so if you need any assistance, e-mail me, there's a link at the top.