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Meal ticket to reliable Hungarian home dishes
Written by Bénédicte Williams   
Sunday, 09 October 2011

Review: Remíz Café and Brasserie

Remíz restaurant takes its name from the tram depot that sits just steps away, at the intersection between two major roads. The theme is set with the tram-like brick window that greets passers-by at the entrance of the restaurant. Despite the inauspicious location, Remíz offers a surprisingly pleasant, quiet setting in which to eat. Inside, a series of large rooms can accommodate private diners but also larger groups. Outside, the large open courtyard is shaded by trees and big parasols that help keep the summer heat at bay.

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The menu, part of which has changed little since the restaurant's opening 20 years ago, takes much of its inspiration from the Hungarian home-cooking repertoire. Meat soups and goose specialities side with catfish stew and cottage cheesecake. There are also a fair few international dishes, with the ubiquitous tomato, mozzarella and basil salad one of the many lighter touches brought to the menu.
Menus these days benefit from the confluence of the summer months' lava stone-cooked options and of the beginning of the trout season, which lasts until about November. An unchallenging children's menu (fish fingers, sweetcorn salad, chicken soup) rounds out the offerings. In true Hungarian fashion, all of the helpings tend to be generously sized.

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The salad plate, containing thick wedges of soft winter squash and mixed fresh salad leaves, topped with a fried egg and with a side serving of cinnamon-scented apple puree, serves as a timely reminder of the onset of the cold season.

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Another seasonal salad on offer combines the same assortment of fresh salad leaves with tomatoes and shards of Californian pepper, and daringly pairs shavings of fresh ginger with strips of breaded trout fillet.

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The crispy goose leg with braised red cabbage and a serving of parsley boiled potatoes comes pretty much exactly as one would expect to see it arrive on the family table at Christmas time: plain, simple, filling.

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The risotto, revisited ŕ la Hungarian, includes bolete mushrooms and grilled duck liver. The rice base is creamy and well dotted with mouthfuls of juicy mushroom. Topped with the slices of liver, it makes for quite a nice combination.

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For dessert, the brownie slices served with slices of fresh figs are a little disappointment: the use of cocoa makes it taste a tad dry and with a slight taste of cooking oil that the nut topping does not manage to dispel.
But the peach mousse in an almond shell is a pleasant counterpart: a light mousse topped with slices of peach, it is served in a casing made of thinly sliced almonds and is a delicious end to the meal.

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For those looking for reliable  Hungarian dishes with a few extras thrown in on the side, the friendly service and varied dishes and prices cater for all needs and preferences.

Price points
Soups: HUF 680-1,840
Starters: HUF 550-3,380
Mains: HUF 980-4,980
Desserts: HUF 520-980

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Remíz Café
District II, Budakeszi út 5
 Open Mon.-Sun. 12.00-23.00
 (+36-1) 394-1896
 
www.remiz.hu

 
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