Upfront Cautions
Conventional Lens Cleaning Wisdom
Postings related to Lens Cleaning
Related Links:
Cleaning Lenses
with Defects (Copyright 1998 A. Calcui)
Kodak on Lens Cleaning
Dust Mites
Cleaning out of Cameras (W.J. Markerink)
Cleaning Cameras
Cleaning Collectible Cameras
How To Clean
Your Camera's Lenses
Cleaning Lenses by
Harry Fleenor [12/2000]
Opticlean (and posting) [8/2002]
Cautions:
My first caution to you is to follow Hippocrates' Rule - first, do no
harm!
My second caution is that you proceed at your own risk. I haven't and
can't test any of these ideas extensively, so they are just presented for
your information. The posters may or may not be better informed than
you or me. But the diversity of opinions and ideas is interesting in
its own right, and worth presenting.
My third caution is that less is more in lens cleaning. Most of the
damage in the form of scratches to lenses has come to be known as
''cleaning marks'' due to their source. The less cleaning and the less
vigorous cleaning you do, the better your lenses are likely to remain.
Conventional lens cleaning philosophy is very simple.
First, get the dust off the lens. Dust can cause scratches. Usually a
blower brush is recommended, sometimes with use of the clean brush
part if needed. Keep this brush for lenses only. Keep it clean and in
a dust-free environment. Canned air is not recommended by some
sources, as it can condense out chemicals and freeze lenses and is
usually too vigorous a blast when new can of air is used.
Second, lubricate the glass indirectly with very little fluid. Usually,
this means lightly moistening a piece of lens cleaning tissue and putting
on lens. Some sources recommend the moisture from your breath, but most
suggest using commercial lens cleaning fluid. Don't put the fluid
directly on the lens, as too much will soak into lens and may cause
damage (loosened elements). Use a spiral motion outward (some sources
recommend
counter-clockwise). Do not rub moist paper back and forth or hard on
lens.
Third, use a new and clean lens cleaning tissue to remove the moisture
and clean the lens. Again, a spiral cleaning motion is recommended.
One technique is to tear the lens cleaning paper in half, producing a jagged
edge paper segment that can be folded (for strength). Clean with these
paper pieces, discarding when done. Don't save on paper, as you may end
up scratching multiple lenses with the dust from one lens.
Microfiber cloth can be used as directed by manufacturer. Usually, this
means removing the dust first, then cleaning away smudges with the cloth.
Some sources
again recommend a spiraling outward motion from the lens center. Others
say just wipe and lift off fingerprints and smudges.
Please understand that you must keep your microfiber cloth very clean and
dust free! The cloth will pick up dust if you don't, and you will end up
scratching all the glass that you touch.
A very good idea is to put all these lens cleaning items into a zip lock
or similar bag, mainly to protect them against dust contamination.
Another good idea is to periodically vacuum out the contents of your
camera bag, to remove dust before it can really buildup.
Consider using a protective (UV) filter in adverse environments. In
really
dusty, muddy, or sandy environments, consider using an ewa marine plastic
bag to keep dust and mud out of your camera and lenses.
WARNING:
If you start disassembling lenses, you should be aware and able to handle
all the issues required for proper re-assembly. Not only do you have to
get them all back in the right order, but you have to ensure exact (and
we mean really exact) registration and positioning. If you don't
have access and knowledge to use an optical bench to recenter and
optically align your lenses, you have no business doing lens disassemblies.
Tolerances are measured in ten-thousandths of an inch, so take the
hint!
HEALTH HAZARDS:
Some recent books on health hazards in
photography emphasize that many old style cleaners such as benzene and
acetone
can have significant health risks. Be sure to be aware of these risks and take
precautions if you elect to use these chemicals.
At the least, be sure to use a very well ventilated repair site. And be
especially aware of the risk of fires with some volatile
chemicals such as ether or lighter fluid or other often recommended home
cleaning chemicals. Most cleaning chemicals will
have precautions listed on the container, which should be carefully
followed. In general, it is a good rule to avoid skin contact and to use
only in a very well ventilated environment where airflow minimized the risk of
breathing fumes.
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
From: Bob Shell <bob@bobshell.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] of addresses and lens cleaning
Lens makers recommend acetone to remove staining and most other crud from
lenses. Zeiss actually makes a cleaner and sells it. It is specifically
formulated to remove haze and fungus. I have no idea what's in it.
Bob
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
From: Rick Oleson <rick_oleson@yahoo.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: of addresses and lens cleaning
I would be pretty careful in using acetone around an assembled lens,
as so many of them over the past 20 years or so have been using
polycarbonate in the barrels. Acetone will dissolve polycarbonate
very quickly. It ought to be okay with the glass elements themselves
if the lens is disassembled.
rick :)=
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
From: Bob Shell <bob@bobshell.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: of addresses and lens cleaning
Good point. I was speaking of cleaning lenses which were removed from the
lens barrels.
Bob
[Ed. note: A useful test tip from a noted camera repairperson]
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning Tessars
The way to tell if the lens has gotten hazy is to open the shutter and
shine a flashlight through the lens. Any haze or other crud in the lens
will become immediately apparent. Also check the finder lens. Haze there
will reduce the contrast of the finder image and make it harder to focus.
Cleaning the finder lens requires actually more disassembly than the taking
lens and will also require re-setting the correlation between finder and
taking lens. The is perhaps better left to a repair type person.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
See Related Postings on our comments page
for many more postings on lens and camera cleaning tips and ideas....
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com From: Wayne Cornell cwcornell@caxtonpress.com Subject: [Russiancamera] Brighter camera finish Discovered recently Ronsonol is excellect for bringing camera finish back to life. It appears to do a much better job of getting down in the pores of brightwork and lifting out the gunk. I can't see where it has any bad effects on optics although I would recommend trying to keep it away from glass.
From rangefinder mailing list: Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 From: "Mark PEARCE" top@tdstelme.net Subject: Re: [RF List] Fungus or Grease? Try 100 proof vodka as a lens cleaner. Don't laugh! Modern Photography did a test of lens cleaning fluids in the late '70s, and this was the top scorer. Cuts grease and won't hurt coatings. I use it all the time, and also find it can steady the hands on tricky jobs. Mark
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Cleaning aluminum From: Nathan Dayton nathandayton@netscape.net You are not going to like this answer,but "you should leave it alone"!!! These older lenses were made of a poor alloy that was covered with a varnish/shellac to protect them from corroding. If you want it to turn gray and develop pits keep cleaning.
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com From: Matt Denton mattdenton@earthlink.net Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Cleaning aluminum For cleaning tarnished, unvarnished russian lens barrels, I've found the best thing to be a polishing compound by 'No. 7', got a lifetime supply at the hardware store in a green & white tub for a few bucks. Tried other stuff, including Flitz, but this was the best for those old lenses. Matt
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Cleaning aluminum From: Bill G billnsue2@yahoo.com You know what else makes them look great is the finest steel wool! I have used 0000 grade, rubbing in one direction only. OK, I know it shaves off a fine layer of Aluminum every time you do it, but it's a quick, easy fix for the smooth surfaces, especially those that are scratched up. They will probably oxidize again gradually, but for now they look great! I go over them with a toothbrush also, to make sure the wool fibers don't get inside the helical, etc.
From camera fix mailing list: Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 From: "Vincent" jonyquik@netscape.net Subject: Optical Glass Cleaning The best way to clean optical glass in a dust laden environment is no easy task. The best methods of removing all residue are still chemical/evaporative. Usually there are only three solvents normally used to clean a piece of optical glass. Alcohol, acetone, and finally ether. The alcohol can be denatured alcohol. There is a slight difference in the evaporation rate, but a simple adjustment in the speed of my movements to get it to evaporate at the proper rate. All three of these solvents are chemically pure, and should be used with proper ventilation. The alcohol being the least toxic of the three. Fume tight pump cannisters are necessary for small storage and access to your solvents. Usually 2 to 4 oz pump bottles of material that will handle a wide range of solvents safely. I usually make a third pump bottle with dish washing detergent and warm water. These four, and some "Scott" Tissue and a pair of Dumont 3c tweezers. A very large recepticle close by and handy would be useful for the used paper residue made when cleaning a lens. It is always important that contact with the glass, and releasing contact to the glass must be made while the papered finger is moving in one direction and the glass to be cleaned moving in the other. That point in your contact with the glass must be made very smoothly. All your movements while in contact with the glass with your solvent soaked paper pad should be circular and very small all of them guiding the pad to differing places upon the surface of the glass. The trick in removing contact is to bring the amount of contact to a piece of glass that has a gradual edge, and guiding that carefully made point on your cleaning pad to be the last contact to be made by the paper, and haveing everything moving at the same moment. During the above the person wielding the cleaning pad and the glasscreates a humidity control system simply with their breath to aid the correct evaporation point of the solvent. It needs also to be at the precise motion as contact ceases with the glass. At that point evaporation needs to be at a perfect 100%. Cleaning glass is an art and milky ways and constellations too bright to look into will be a part of your learning vision. The only way to get a piece of glass clean and keep it that way, is to be able to see deep space in its surface because of successful chemical solvent cleaning. I described the last step of cleaning a piece of glass. I primarilly took into consideration and use the lightest solvent in cutting power and heaviest in weight because of its high water content. The water acts a a very refined bearing surface, and because of the solvents, they are capable of absorbing debris of various type on the microscopic level. This absorbtion is best carried from the surface being cleaned at the moment of breaking contact and matching it with the evaporation of the solvent being used. Don't get thrown by the solvents. Acetone is difficult to get the proper evaporation rate. It can be done, especially when it is very cold. Mostly I use acetone to remove oil and grease from optical glass. It is impossible to clean oil contaminated glass. Once cleaned with the acetone, alcohol seems to fill the bill for cleaning. Ether is the best glass cleaner available to us, and used where it is absolutely necessary to remove dust and dirt. Don't overuse or you'll get sleepy. I also have available that diswashing detergent pump bottle. It provides me a solvent that will desolve most foodstuffs which get everywhere. I use it with caution also. I have one other solvent at my disposal in this cleaning process. It is ordinary salivia. The human form is known to desolve all sorts of solids that cannot be touched by the other four solvents I gave us. I use a # 3c Dumont tweezer to wrap "Scott" tissue into a pointing shape whose paper wrapping creating this,would cushion any and all sharp edges from the tweezer. This can effectively be use for cleaning in very tight or small places. Good Luck with your lens cleaning!!! Vincent One further thought. Never use the same piece of paper on the same glass again. One circular wipe, remove and make a new paper pad for further cleaning. If you introduce old paper to clean glass, the residues of the debris in the paper because of the evaporation process will be deposited on the glass instanly. Glass cleaning is a thinking mans occupation. Also it helps to wash ones hands a whole lot. Good Luck !!! Vincent Postscript: By the way I forgot to mention. I keep an adult size blue bulb rubber ear syringe also on my work table to blow away dust. Nice tool, but it should be washed once in a while too.
From nikon mf mailing list: Date: Sun, 11 May From: "Larry Ewan" lewan@cfl.rr.com Subject: RE: Cleaning Slides Nick wrote: > .... I've found some of the older slides have fungus on > them & I'm not sure what the best way is to clean it off > before scanning. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. A product called PEC-12 is about the only way that exists to do it safely. Here is a link to the product. http://www.photosol.com/pec-12product.htm Larry
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format Subject: Re: Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning Date: Sun, 02 May 2004 "Collin Brendemuehl" dpcwilbur@excite.com wrote... > This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking. > But I find it generally prudent to ask about matters that will cost > more than $20 to experiment with. > > I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version. > Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass. > Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging. > (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the presence > of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.) > > So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true) > the open air space within each cell. > > While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. > What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and > subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? > My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid > marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. > Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? :) > Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the > cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment? > > Your thoughts? > TIA, > Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl Clean them just as you would outside surfaces. Lens cleaning fluid or 99% Isopropyl alcohol are fine. Use lens tissues or Kimwipes and use each once only. Blow out the cell after cleaning it and before putting the lens back. If a lens doesn't come out easily try lifting it out with a piece of scotch tape. If the surface is clean that won't hurt it. Becareful to note any shims and get them back properly. Few old lenses had shims but some modern ones do. If the cells have threaded back caps they are very easy to open. Most lenses without back caps have threaded front retaining rings. The best way to remove these is with a friction tool made of a soft rubber ring cemented to a tube the right diameter. Be careful replacing the lens. The clearances are very small and you don't want to chip the lens by forcing it. It must displace some air going in so will move slowly. I don't know for certain what causes the haze in lenses but think its probably some residual volitile material from the anti-refection paint on the inside of the cell. Some makes of lenses seem more prone to develop it than others. Schneider and Kodak lenses seem to have haze frequently. Some very old lenses may even seem to have soot inside. I've found this stuff also cleans right off with lens cleaning fluid and leaves the lenses sparkling clean. Even a small amount of internal haze will destroy the contrast of a lens. I think one reason that uncoated lenses have a reputation for being very flary is due to interenal haze and dirt. They really are not that bad. --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: Mr Inkbutter not@allwell.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format Subject: Re: Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning Date: Sat, 01 May 2004 dpcwilbur@excite.com (Collin Brendemuehl) wrote: >While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods. >What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off cells and >subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean? >My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to avoid >marking it. But this may or may not be adequate. >Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? :) >Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl HelloColin I've removed the cells and cleaned them on all my older lenses and it's suprising the dirt that comes off .! the increase in contrast and sharpness can be quite amazing even on clean lenses . the place i got my cleaning fluid from and some of their Pac Pad wipes is http://www.micro-tools.com the fluid is called Eclipse and if you use it damp on the pad leaves no marks ! , they also have a great range of tools for camera work . If your unscrewing lens barrals from shutters or removing cells from their mounts the thing to watch for is thin shims , flat pices of metal used to get the right spacing of cell in the mount , it's just a spacer but it has to go back in the same place . Cheers Iain