WHY BRONICA S2-A........ and S2 .... and C

by Sam Sherman (flexaret@sprynet.com)

I am pleased to have gotten such good responses from readers of my articles on Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica site. It is this type of communication which helps to make the internet great.

I hope I have influenced readers for the good, who have taken their first plunge into Medium Format with a good used Bronica S2-A, S2 or C.

Below I have listed some thoughts relative to the subject of these cameras-

1- They are relatively inexpensive for the features and precision quality they deliver.

2- They have limitless expansion possibilities.

3- High quality Nikkor and other optics.

4- Rugged construction - still requiring treating cameras properly. I have used these for over 20 years and have never stripped a wind gear on any of the 3 above listed models. I do not abuse equipment.

5- A solid piece of equipment that feels right in the hands. I suggest using the camera with the original Waist Level Finder with the magnifier in place most of the time. However, without the magnifier you can hold the camera upside down over your head to shoot over crowds, point it out the window of a car or cab and place it on the floor for low angle shots. I advise getting the vinyl heavy duty neckstrap for the model EC, which will fit all of these earlier cameras. Avoid the leather eveready case and carry the camera in a small shoulder gadget bag with meter, extra film, lenses etc.

6- Buy a second film insert and you can preload it and keep shooting rapidly without needing extra backs. How many people actually change film in mid roll? Except for the occasional use of the Polaroid back, the Bronica C is a fine camera for use and is stronger in many ways than the S2-A with no interchangeable back linkages to present problems. The C is a strong one unit construction camera, which has multiple exposure provision and the ability to easily wind and click the shutter without film to exercise the shutter, which should be done periodically. The S2-A and such requires taking the back off the camera to release the shutter and is not as easy to hold when firing as a C. Some may even drop their cameras doing such.

7- Be sure to have your finder foam replaced and your viewing screen properly calibrated for infinity focus. (See my article on this). I think this problem went back as far as even when some of these cameras were new. It is their one weak link... but easily correctable. I think this is why some photographers got less than crisp results with these cameras and some photography magazine lens tests on the Nikkor optics were less than superb. It had nothing to do with the lenses only the finder alignment.

8- Don't be afraid of 400 speed film - some color negative film (like Fuji) today are as sharp and grainless at ISO 400 as earlier 100 speed films. With the faster films you can shoot in low light levels and shoot your exterior shots hand held at 1/250th and 1/500th eliminating any possible hand held vibration ruining picture sharpness.

9- Try Black and White - Ilford XP-2 and Kodak T400CN - both are C41 process and great quality.

10- Don't compare these cameras to Camera H, P, M etc. In many ways these Bronica cameras are better than all of them. In many ways the other cameras are better than the old Bronica cameras..... if you want to pay more than 10 times the price!!

11- Don't be scared about the slow flash sync speed of 1/40th second. The flash duration 1/1000th or 1/5000th second makes the exposure. Be sure to set your speed dial to "X" and not a numerical speed for electronic flash. Just shoot the flash pictures and don't worry about what anybody claims about leaf shutters and flash sync. Most of that is B.S. - except synchro-sunlight. I have shot electronic flash with focal plane shutter cameras at slow sync. speeds of 1/25th second and such for over 25 years and have never seen a ghost image. Of course I am not shooting Basketball games under bright lights. But, who is? I would think those games could be shot without flash and with fast lenses and high speed film. For closeup flash pictures, just buy a cheap flat flash bracket and I suggest the $19.95 Vivitar 1900 flash - you will be amazed what you can shoot with that flash. Most effective at 3-10 feet .. but can be used further away. It is very small and light. For extreme versatility I advise the classic Vivitar 283 flash plus bounce card and its adapter holder. You can do incredible work with this studio in a small case/flash.

12- Read about lens hacking/adapting odd lenses to Bronica. I just adapted a $15 Kodak 161MM f4.5 enlarging lens to Bronica. I have been taking great flash portaits with it and the people in the photos stand out sharp with the backgrounds blurred out at f5.6 to f8.

13- Do your own thinking about these cameras and don't let anybody tear them down or diminish you for using them.

14- If repairs or clean-lube-adjust is needed I have had great results with Ken Ruth-Photography on Bald Mountain and Frank Marshman-Camera Wiz. They both advertise in the back of Shutterbug magazine. Don't trust your camera to a repair jockey jack of all trades. If he is not a specialist with these cameras.... stay away!

15- Carefully study Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica Website. Join the Bronica email list. Write here and to the list and tell the world about your Bronica experiences.

16- Have fun and take great photos.

Cheers,

Sam Sherman