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Cooked white beans are like pearls, understated, yet elegant. Just as a woman looks stylish in pearls, whether she's wearing jeans and a sweater or a black silk dress, a home cook can make a memorable dinner using cooked white beans in a straightforward side dish or in an elaborate preparation such as Cassoulet.
Fortunately, unlike pearls, white beans are inexpensive, which is rather unusual for something with such worth and importance. There's no question that beans are valuable. They're an outstanding source of vegetable protein; they're also low in fat and have large amounts of iron and B vitamins. They're easy to cook and lend themselves to a wide range of recipes. They're so versatile that you won't tire of them quickly. And they're tasty, which is what cooking and eating are all about.
You can buy cooked white beans in cans and there is good reason to use them occasionally when you're pressed for time. If you do, be sure to rinse them first and choose a premium brand; the others can be soft and mushy. On the other hand, because dried beans are such a cinch to cook and the texture is so much better, we will explain how to prepare cooked white beans and then tell you how to use them in simple and more involved dishes.
Most of the time you'll be buying dried white beans in one-pound packages. You can use Great Northerns, which are mature seeds of the common string beans; navy beans, which are small; or cannellinis, which are larger and have thicker skins. These days, packaged beans are fairly consistent in color and size. Still, take the time to look them over, and discard any broken or discolored ones.
Although soaking beans before cooking isn't essential, there are a couple
of benefits. Soaking helps break down the indigestible chemicals that cause intestinal gas. It cuts down on cooking time, too, by allowing the dried legume to absorb moisture slowly.
There are two basic ways to soak beans. One is to cover them with water and let them rest overnight, for at least eight hours. The slow soak helps assure that the beans will be very tender. On the other hand, if you haven't planned ahead, there's a quicker method that's almost as good: bring the beans and water to a boil and cook them for two minutes, remove the pan from the heat, cover the pan and let the beans rest for one hour.
After the initial soak, drain the beans and cover them with fresh water. Cook them slowly until they become tender. Keep the water at a simmer, not a boil, otherwise the skins might split and the beans will disintegrate. Most white beans will take one to 1 1/2 hours to soften, but if the beans are very old, they might take more time. Taste one; it should be as soft as a cooked green pea.
Some experts say that adding salt or acidic ingredients such as vinegar or lemon juice during the cooking process prevents the beans from becoming tender (the skin tightens and won't absorb water efficiently). Others say it's not so, but it is probably smart not to use salt; you can always season the beans after they've softened.
When the beans are tender you can serve them as is. Toss them with a small amount of olive oil to coat the surface, sprinkle with salt, pepper and some chopped fresh herbs, particularly sage, and you've got a terrific side dish for dinner. Add some quickly sauteed tomato chunks if you like.
You might also think about pureeing the beans with some of the bean
cooking liquid and a bit of butter or olive oil and salt, or perhaps some garlic, chives or scallion. It's like mashed potatoes, but healthier.
One of the most scrumptious cooked white bean dishes is Pasta e Fagioli, a thick, welcoming soup for winter. Recipes vary, but this classic always contains small, tubular pasta as well as beans. Our vegetable-laden version includes carrots, celery and tomatoes. Fresh basil, with its hint of summer gardens, lightens the flavor. Serve the soup with lots of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Cassoulet is the apotheosis of bean dishes. There are hundreds of versions of this grand take on pork and beans. Some cooks add goose legs or duck confit, others use lamb. Our recipe is simple and straightforward, calling for meats that are readily available in every supermarket. The casserole takes a long time to cook; it's a nice bet for a Sunday supper or during the week if you've had the time to put one together over the weekend. You can assemble the dish and keep it in the refrigerator for two to three days. Cassoulet is always capped with a bread crumb crust. You can leave the bread crumb layer thick and let it roast to a golden finish, but most Cassoulet aficionados prefer it broken. While the dish bakes, crush the crust a few times with the side of a spoon so that some of the toasty-tasting crumbs mix with the beans.
Cooked White Beans
1 (1-pound) package dry white beans
Olive oil, optional
Salt, pepper and chopped fresh herbs, optional
Place beans in large pot and cover by at least two inches with water. Soak overnight in refrigerator or bring water to a boil, cook two minutes and remove the pan from heat. If you use the 2-minute method, cover
the beans and let them soak for one hour.
With either method, after soaking, drain the beans and cover them again with fresh water. Bring to a simmer and cook until tender, usually 1 to 11/2 hours. To use for a side dish or salad, drain the beans and coat them with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, freshly ground pepper and freshly chopped herbs. Makes 6 servings.
Per Serving (without oil or seasonings): 253 Calories; 1g Fat; 17g Protein; 46g Carbohydrate; 18g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 11mg Sodium.
Pasta e Fagioli
2 cups dried navy or pea beans
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 carrots, cut into half-inch slices
2 stalks celery, cut into half-inch slices
2 peeled tomatoes, chopped (or use 6-8 canned plum tomatoes) 4 cups beef stock
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
3 tablespoons freshly minced basil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup ditalini or other small tubular pasta
Parmesan cheese
Cook the beans as in the master recipe, drain them but reserve the cooking water. Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over moderate heat.
Saute onion 2-3 minutes, until it softens. Add garlic and cook another half minute. Add carrots and celery; cook another 2-3 minutes. Add tomatoes, beans and stock. Measure out 4 cups bean cooking water and add it to soup. (If necessary add regular water or more beef stock.) Add parsley, basil and some salt and pepper. Bring to simmer; cook, partially covered, about 45 minutes or until beans are very tender.
Remove two cups soup; puree it in blender. Return puree to soup; stir to blend it in. Add pasta. Cook 20 minutes or until pasta is tender. Add water or stock
if desired, to make soup thinner. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Serve soup sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Makes 8 servings.
Per Serving (without cheese): 313 Calories; 8g Fat; 14g Protein; 48g Carbohydrate; 15g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 27mg Sodium.
Cassoulet
1 pound dry white beans
6 sprigs parsley
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 cloves garlic
3 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
4 ounces thick bacon, cut into small chunks
4 Italian-style sweet sausages, cut into chunks, or smoky sausage like kielbasa 2-3 pounds meat: pork, veal, beef, duck or chicken
Salt and pepper to taste
1 large onion, cut into small chunks
2 tomatoes, chopped
6 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups beef or chicken stock
11/2 cups dry white wine
11/2 cups fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons butter cut into bits
Cook the beans as in the master recipe, but after the soaking, place the parsley, thyme, garlic, cloves and bay leaf in a small muslin or cheesecloth bag, and include it when you cook the beans. When the beans are cooked, remove the herbs, drain the beans but reserve the cooking water. Set the beans and cooking water aside.
In a large saute pan, cook the bacon over moderate heat for 5-6 minutes, or until lightly browned and crispy. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the sausage chunks to the pan and cook for 5-6 minutes, or until the outside is lightly browned. Remove meat and set aside with bacon. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. You may use a mixture of meats. Add meat in small amounts to the saute pan, browning the pieces, then removing them to a dish, until all the
meat has been cooked.
Note: if you use a duck breast, you may roast it whole, then cut it into chunks. Add the onion to the pan and cook for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and the meats, but not the bacon or sausage, to the pan. Add the tomato paste, stock, wine and some salt and pepper. Stir ingredients, cover the pan and simmer for 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the sausage and bacon. Place a layer of beans in a large, deep casserole. Spoon some of the meat mixture on top and continue layering until all the beans and meat have been used. Be sure there is enough liquid in the casserole to cover the beans, using the reserved bean cooking liquid, if necessary. Spoon the bread crumbs on top of the meat and bean mixture. Top with the butter bits.
Bake 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Bake about 1 to 11/4 hours, breaking crust and mixing it with mixture below during first 45 minutes. If mixture below crust seems dry, add stock or bean cooking liquid a half cupful at a time when you break the crust. The cassoulet is done when the crust is golden brown. Makes 6 servings.
Per Serving: 883 Calories; 41g Fat; 41g Protein; 82g Carbohydrate; 25g Dietary Fiber; 84mg Cholesterol; 2023mg Sodium.
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