Searching for superior seafood is a Long Island diner's perpetual quest. And, in a region surrounded by water, surprisingly, it's not the easiest inquiry.
But when you find one, the result definitely is the catch of the day, the week or the month, whether it's a clam bar, a sushi specialist or a spot with pristine, white tablecloths. Here are five winners.
H2O, 215 W. Main St., Smithtown; 631-361-6464. H2O succeeds with the raw and the cooked. The eatery stands out with lobster in almost any guise; pan-seared Dover sole; New England-style clam chowder; and tuna tartare. And it's a winner for sushi and sashimi, too, from the tuna and yellowtail hand rolls to a lobster roll with mango and avocado.
Paddy McGee's, 6 Waterview Rd., Island Park; 516-431-8700. Refurbished and polished, Paddy McGee's still keeps the style of a vintage fish house. The waterside establishment excels with shellfish cocktails, fried oysters, steamed lobster, grilled swordfish, grilled tuna, New England-style clam chowder.
The Plaza Cafe, 61 Hill St., Southampton; 631-283-9323. Chef Douglas Gulija has been cooking terrific seafood at this address for more than a decade. His version of shepherd's pie, with lobster, scallops and shrimps under an herb-potato crust, is outstanding. You'll also enjoy the lobster ravioli in ginger broth, horseradish-crusted sauteed cod and the swordfish "chop."
Riverbay, 700 Willis Ave., Williston Park; 516-742-9191. Buoyant and crowded, Riverbay is a popular, upbeat restaurant with a big repertoire. Have your finfish broiled or grilled, poached or sauteed, maybe Cajun-style. The broiled or steamed lobsters are dependable choices. And they have the seasonal treat of stone crab claws.
Trata East, 1020 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill; 631-726- 6200. It's seafood with a Greek accent at Trata East, the Long Island offspring of the Manhattan restaurant. Summery in style, the place is welcoming year-round with grilled whole fish sold by the pound. Some fine choices are red fagri, tsipoura and wild striped bass. Precede them with baked feta saganaki, pan-fried artichokes and a
sampler of Greek appetizers.
