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Wineries

Touring Long Island's wineries requires pacing -- on the road and in the tasting room. Otherwise, at day's end, the North and the South Forks both may contour into corkscrews.

For first-rate wine on the North Fork, start at Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue. Try the only chenin blanc made on Long Island, fruity and delightful dry and semi-dry rieslings, an excellent late-harvest sauvignon blanc, and Assemblage, a rich red blend.

In Peconic, The Lenz Winery, one of the region's first producers, stands out for its full-bodied old-vines merlot, cabernet sauvignon and lively sparkling wine. Pindar Vineyards, Long Island's biggest producer and among the first wave of wineries, makes wines at many price points and has an informative tour. Nearby, Raphael offers exceptional "first-label" merlot, in a handsome setting.

Bedell Cellars, a veteran winery respected for its merlot, offers a fine C-Block South merlot; and Cupola, a consistent red blend. The "artist label series" is eye-catching and good.

And, on the South Fork, Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack has a list of winners, including Long Island's priciest wine, the lush, $125 premier cru merlot. You'll enjoy Wolffer's pinot noir, sparkling wine, chardonnay and late-harvest chardonnay, and the classic look of the place.

Time for a toast.

Long Island wines for Summer 2007

The 2006 Macari Vineyards "Katherine's Field" Sauvignon Blanc fits neatly into the seasonal portfolio. It's an easygoing, crisp white, flavorful and versatile, with appealing varietal character. You'll detect notes of citrus. All of which makes the Mattituck wine a fine match with soft-shell crab, fish and chips, grilled shrimp and many Asian dishes, from Chinese to Indian. A bottle is about $19.

Channing Daughters refreshes summer drinking with a taste of Italy. The Bridgehampton winery excels with wines such as the 2006 Mosaico ($29) and the 2006 Vino Bianco ($29) - lively, versatile, very good white blends.

Shinn Estate Vineyards uncorks the season with a bright 2006 "First Fruit" Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon. This easygoing white wine is made from the first fruit harvested from the vintage. The blend is 96 percent sauvignon blanc, 4 percent semillon. The result: A versatile, balanced wine with a hint of pear - ideal with scallops, oysters and clams, and finfish such as flounder or scrod. It's also a good match with spicier Asian fare. A bottle of '06 First Fruit goes for about $23. Shinn Estate is at 2000 Oregon Rd., Mattituck; 631-804-0367.

The 2006 Wolffer Pinot Gris is a balanced, bright and versatile white wine. Winemaker Roman Roth added 12 percent chardonnay to the pinot. It's a wine with fine acidity and more depth than a case of pinot grigio. Enjoy this one chilled, but not overly so. The pinot gris pairs neatly with lighter finfish, shrimp, scallops and simpler preparations of chicken and pork. A bottle of the '06 pinot gris is about $24.

Ready to go with everything from lobster salad to roast turkey, the 2006 Wolffer Rosé is an easygoing, warm-weather choice. Chill the rosé and enjoy. A bottle is about $14.

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