Download hi-res
topographical maps of
the Oecusse Enclave

Boaknana Nitibe Coastline
Bobometo Napan Border Crossing
Citrana Oepoli Border Crossing
Kefamenanu NTT Area
Oecusse Town Area
Oecusse Town Close Up
Oesilo Passabe Area
Padiae Tono Market Area
Sakato Wini Border Crossing
Suco Bene Ufe Border Area
Taiboco Coastline

 



Historical Notes on
the Topass Leaders
in Oecusse

Hans Hagerdal Ph.D.
Senior Lecturer in History
Department of Humanities
University of Vaxjo, Sweden
hans.hagerdal@vxu.se

 

Some Geography and History of Oecusse-Ambeno

Oecusse is Timor Leste's Enclave in West Timor, Indonesia. The island of Timor is split roughly in half between Timor Leste and West Timor, of the multi island Indonesian province of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT). Prior to 1974 Timor Leste was known as Portuguese Timor and during the Indonesian occupation it was integrated into Indonesia as Timur Timor (East Timor). Known as East Timor during the UN interregnum (when under United Nations stewardship) it officially became Timor Leste in 2002.

The island of Timor is located at the east south eastern end of the Indonesian archipelago, across the Timor Sea from Australia's Northern Territory and its capitol, the city of Darwin. To Timor's north it is bounded closely by the Ombai and Wetar Straits and the Indonesian islands of Alor and Wetar with the Banda Sea further to the north. The Indonesian island of Flores lies some distance to the west north west of Timor.

The Oecusse Enclave sits astride the main road artery between Kupang (the capital of NTT) and Dili in a 30 minute detour northwards from the mid island town of Kefamenanu in West Timor. There three main road crossings from West Timor into the Oecusse Enclave, lie at the Sakato, Bobometo, and Passabe—although the only two legal crossing points are Sakato and Bobometo.

The Oecusse Enclave lies on the north shore of West Timor some 75 km to the west of the international boundary crossing between Indonesia and Timor Leste at Motaiin -- Batugade. It consists of some 2700 square kms and runs approximately 60 kms east-west along the coast and nearly 40km southward at its most extreme inland tip Mount Bijae Sunan. The 2004 National Census revealed that Oecusse's population is 25 percent larger than previously understood with some 58,000 people inhabiting the Enclave. Oecusse accounts for approximately 7 percent of Timor Leste's population and nearly 12 percent of its national territory.

The enclave is divided in four subdistricts:

1. Pante Makassar in the central coastal areas around the Tono river;
2. Nitibe in the westward coastal region reaching inland into a low mountainous area;
3. Oesilo in the central inland heights where the Tono originates as well as where the main road to West Timor lies; and
4. Passabe, centred on an isolated valley town at the southern tip of the Enclave.

These subdistricts are divided in eighteen Suco, or villages, with these being further divided into over 60 hamlets scattered across the Enclave.

The District capitol of the enclave is the town of Oecusse (sometimes known as Pante Makasser) in the Pante Makassar subdistrict. With a population of over 5,000 it is the largest population centre in the Enclave. The town is notable for several large churches, a Portuguese era mission, a long beachfront promenade, an airfield, and two port facilities. The visually striking hills to the rear of Oecusse town contain the old Portuguese fort of Fatusuba. Lifau to the immediate west of the town is the site of the first European landings in Timor, by the Portuguese in the 16th century. It hosts a fine beach and a monument to the Portuguese landing.

Historically, the Enclave has had a unique relationship with both the western and eastern regions of Timor. It served as the capital of Portuguese Timor until the arrival of the Dutch, a hostile local kingdom and the prospects of a better harbour caused the Portuguese to shift their capital to Dili in the 18th century. The Portuguese tradition and the Enclave's position as the birthplace of Catholicism in Timor are the source of considerable pride in the Enclave, and inspire strong sentimental attachment by many in Timor Leste. At the end of the 19th century, the Dutch and Portuguese formalised their shared border in Timor, ensuring that the Enclave remained attached politically and sentimentally, if not geographically, to Portuguese Timor. Towards the end of Portuguese rule, a ferry linked the Enclave to Dili and there was also a limited air link. Significantly, the people of the Enclave share both historical and ethno-linguistic ties with much of West Timor. Trade and family links extend across the border deep into West Timor, from Atambua to Kupang, but are centred largely on Kefamenanu, West Timor's fourth town. The indigenous language of the Enclave is Baiqueno, a dialect of Meto/Atoni, West Timor's major ethno-linguistic grouping. The Enclave is in the unique position of not entirely being of one area or the other. Politically it is clearly of Timor Leste, but ethnically, geographically and economically its centre of gravity is West Timor.


Portuguese colonial dominions in the region

Oecusse's internal geography is dominated by the Tono river valley and the seaward estuary at Lifau. The Tono is the water source for Oecusse's largest rice producing areas surrounding the Padiae and Lifau areas in Pante Makassar. While the paddy in these areas produces large amounts of rice much of Oecusse is dominated by hill country with poor water supplies and where inhabitants live off vegetable gardens, limited livestock and bartering. However, the many areas have sufficient cattle grazing areas to provide for one of Timor Leste's largest cattle herds with as many as 20,000 head of cattle. The Tono weekly market takes place every Tuesday (as it has for generations) at southern end of Padiae where the mountains meeting the low river valley. Tono Market is Oecusse's largest market with thousands of people walking, riding, and driving to the market from across the Enclave.

In the southern subdistrict of Passabe the mountains reach a height of 1500m. From most high areas in Oecusse there is a clear view of Mount Mutis (3000m) in West Timor. The dry season lasts from approximately May to November. The wet season (Novermber to May) is notable for heavy rainfall, particularly in the high country, resulting in flooding rivers, and an increase in malarial conditions. The months of June-August are notable for hot days with low humidity and cool evenings.

There are ongoing border disputes with Indonesia in Passabe (at Mt. Bijae Sunan) and Nitibe (at Naktuka) subdistricts. The island of Fatu Sinai (off Citrana, Nitibe and Oepoli, West Timor) also remains contested.