Broad Peak
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| Broad Peak | |
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 Broad Peak from Concordia |
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| Elevation | 8,047 metres (26,400 feet) Ranked 12th (4th in Pakistan) |
| Location | Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan)/ (China) |
| Range | Karakoram |
| Prominence | 1,701 m |
| Coordinates | |
| First ascent | June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
Broad Peak (originally named K3) is the 12th highest mountain on Earth.
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[edit] Geography
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of China-Kashmir. It is located about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". Broad Peak is known locally as Faichan Kangri. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis.
[edit] Climbing History
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654m) on June 27, 1957.
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak for retrieving the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8.000 meters.
[edit] Time Line
- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
- 1957 First ascent[1]
- 1983 Krystyna Palmowska (Poland)- first female ascent
- 1986 Between July 28th and August 4th, twelve out of fourteen Slovenian (then Yugoslavian) climbers successfully summited on Broad Peak. Marija Štremfelj was the first Slovenian/Yugoslavian woman to summit 8.000 m peak.
[edit] See also
[edit] References
[edit] Further Reading
Richard Sale has written the following book:
- Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
Marcus Schmuck has written the following book:
- Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
- Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
- Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
[edit] External links
- First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org
- History of First Ascent and Related Literature from Canadian Alpine Journal
- Some History of Broad Peak on EverestNews.com
- Broad Peak on Peakware
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| Everest · K2 · Kangchenjunga · Lhotse · Makalu · Cho Oyu · Dhaulagiri · Manaslu · Nanga Parbat · Annapurna · Gasherbrum I · Broad Peak · Gasherbrum II · Shishapangma |
