Roger aka Freedman © 2003 http://groups.msn.com/NeedleTattingTwo
I named this Dresden, as it reminded me of the Dresden Plate used in quilting. I also do not usually use this horrible thread for anything except testing a pattern out, or making smaller things for myself. But as I started working it, I kind of liked it and the thread behaved pretty well for me. I am thinking of doing another one, with the center motif in a different color and a matching color for the rest of the rounds, which I think would make it look even more like the Dresden Plate.
This is a fairly easy piece to do as you will be doing split rings to work up each round, except for the center motif. If one was to work out from the center you would have to do a mock picot on the center ring, to work out, then a split chain to work up from the motif.
R = ring Ch = Chain P = Picot DS = double stitch Cl = Close RW = Reverse Work SR = Split Ring MP = mock picot
Center Ring - 6 ds 5 picots separated by 6ds each cl tie off - Or if making a mock picot 6ds 4 picots and close making the mock picot as the 5th.
Start of Motif:
*R 2ds p 2ds p 2ds + (join to any picot on center ring) 2ds p 2ds p 2ds Cl RW
Ch 2ds p 2ds p 2ds p 2ds p 2ds p 2ds RW
R 2ds p 2ds + (to 2nd p on previous ring) 2ds p 2ds p 2ds p 2ds Cl Rw
Ch 2ds 5 picots sep. by 2ds (same as first chain) Rw
Work around from * joining every other ring to a picot on the center ring. 10 rings and chains in all. Five joined to center ring. Cut and tie unless your working out then you would do your last chain a split and work up doing a split ring off the chain.
To join the ring at the base of each round, when you make your chains, leave a pinch of thread to make a mock picot. This is where you will join each ring as you work the next round. The only chains that will not need the mock picot will be your last round. I will put MP for where the Mock Picot is to be.
Round 1 (Join every other ring to a chain on the motif)
R 3ds p 3ds + (join to center p of prev. chain) 3ds p 3ds CL RW
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds RW
R 3ds + (join to side p of prev. ring) 3ds p 3ds p 3ds Cl RW
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds RW
R 3ds + (join to side p of prev. ring) 3ds + (join to chain on motif) 3ds p 3ds
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds RW
R 3ds + 3ds p 3ds p 3ds CL Rw
Work around making rings and joining every other one, for 20 rings and chains in all.
On your last chain, join to first ring made, do not cut. At this point you will be starting the split ring at the base of the ring in the first round to start your next round.
Round 2
SR 3ds p 3ds / 3ds p 3ds This is the first split ring, Cl RW
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds p 3ds RW
R 3ds p 3ds + (join in base of next ring) 3ds p 3ds CL RW
Work around joining last chain to first split ring made and join, this is where you will make your next split ring to work out.
Round 3
SR 3ds p 3ds / 3ds p 3ds Cl Rw
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds p 3ds p 3ds
Work around the same once again, joining the last chain to the first. Start next split ring.
Round 4
SR 3ds p 3ds / 3ds p 3ds CL RW
Ch MP 3ds p 3ds p 3ds p 3ds p 3ds RW
Again work around the same, joining the last chain to the first, Start your next split ring up.
As you will see all rings are the same, the chains add one more Picot sep. by 3ds, as you work the next rounds.
Round 5 do the same, except make chains of 3ds 5 picots sep. by 3ds
Round 6 do the same, except make chained of 3ds 6 picots sep. by 3ds.
If you going to make a larger doily, just make sure you add that extra picot separated by 3ds as you work up.
This doily could also be done doing each round separately, you would just join the picot into the prev. round as you go.
Here is a beautiful variation of the Dresden by Susanne/Dantatter. How pretty is this done up as a Dresden Sunflower. I love these colors.
Thanks you for allowing us to add your beautiful doily to the pages.
Susanne aka Dantatter
http://hjem.get2net.dk/SusanneHT/
