Cuenca, Spain

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Historic Walled Town of Cuenca*
UNESCO World Heritage Site

State Party  Spain
Type Cultural
Criteria ii, v
Reference 781
Region** Europe and North America
Inscription history
Inscription 1996  (20th Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List.
** Region as classified by UNESCO.

Cuenca is a city (2004 pop. 47,862) in the autonomous community of Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain. It is the capital of the province of Cuenca (see map), one of the largest provinces in Spain (17,061 sq. km.), almost as large as countries like Slovenia or Montenegro.

Contents

[edit] History

When the Iberian peninsula was part of the Roman Empire there were several important settlements in the province, such as Segóbriga, Ercávica and Gran Valeria. However, the place where Cuenca is located today was uninhabited at that time.

After Muslim troops conquered the area in 714, they soon realized the value of this strategic location and they built Conca alcazaba (an Arabic fortress) between two gorges dug between the Júcar and Huécar rivers, surrounded by a one km long wall. Cuenca soon became an agricultural and textile manufacturing city, enjoying growing prosperity.

Around the twelfth century the Christians, living in northern Spain during the Muslim presence, started to slowly recover the Iberian peninsula. Castile took over western and central areas of Spain, while Aragon enlarged along the Mediterranean area. The Muslim Kingdom, Al-Andalus, started to break into small provinces (Reinos de taifas) under christian pressure, and in 1100 these areas were near Conca. Conca was conquered by Alfonso VIII , King of Castile, from the Taifa's Kingdom of Toledo in 1177. Previously it had been handed to Castile, under the marriage agreement between princess Zaida and Alfonso VI, but it was soon recovered by the Muslims in 1108, after the battle of Sagrajas.

Alfonso VIII granted a city title, and it was considered to be "Muy noble y muy leal" (Very noble and very faithful). It was given a name, the Fuero, written in Latin, that ruled Cuenca's citizenship, and it was considered one of the most perfect written at that period of time. During the next few centuries Cuenca enjoyed prosperity, thanks to textile manufacturing and livestock exploitation.The cathedral started to be built at that time, in an anglo-norman style, with many French workers, since Alfonso VIII's wife, Leonor de Plantagenet, was French.

During the eighteenth century the textile industry declined, especially when Carlos IV forbade this activity in Cuenca in order to prevent competition with the Real Fábrica de Tapices (Royal Tapestry Factory), and Cuenca's economy declined, thus losing population dramatically (5,000 inhabitants). During the independence war against Napoleon's troops the city suffered great destruction, and it made the crisis worse. The city lost population, with only around 6,000 inhabitants, and only the rail track arrival in the nineteenth century, together with the timber industry, were able to boost Cuenca moderately, and population increased as a result to reach 10,000 inhabitants. In 1874 Cuenca was taken over by "carlistas" troops, supporters of Carlos María Isidro as king instead of the ruling Isabel II, and the city suffered great damage once more.

The twentieth century began with the collapse of the Giraldo cathedral's tower in 1902, which affected also the facade. It had to be rebuilt by Vicente Lámperez, with two new twin towers at both ends of the facade which have remained unfinished without the upper part of them.

The first decades of the twentieth century were as turbulent as in other regions of Spain. There was poverty in rural areas, and the Catholic Church was attacked, with some monks, nuns, priests and even a bishop, Cruz Laplana, killed. During the Civil War Cuenca was part of the republican zone (Zona roja). It was conquered in 1938 by General Franco's troops. During the post-war period this area fell into extreme poverty, and a lot of people had to migrate to more prosperous regions, mainly the Basque Country and Catalonia, but also to other countries such as Germany. The city started to recover slowly from 1960 to 1970, and the town limits went far beyond the gorge to the flat surroundings.

During the last years, the city has experimented a moderate growth in population and economy, the second one effect thanks specially to the growing tourism sector, and both of them fuelled by dramatic improvements in road and train communications. Cuenca has strongly bet on culture and as a result of this it was declared a World Heritage site in 1996. In the recent years, new cultural infraestructures such as the municipal Concert Hall or the Science Museum place Cuenca in a good position to apply for the title of European Capital of Culture in 2016.

[edit] Main sights

  • Our Lady of Grace cathedral (La catedral), built from 1182 to 1270. The façade was rebuilt after it crumbled down in 1902. It is the first gothic style Cathedral in Spain (together with Avila's one), because of the influence of Alfonso VIII wife, Leonor Plantagenet, from Aquitaine, who introduced the Anglo-Norman style. From that date the cathedral has went under some changes. An apse-aisle (doble girola) was added in the 15th century, while the Renaissance Esteban Jamete's Arch was erected in the 16th century. The main altar was redesigned during the 18th century: it features a precious iron-work gate. The façade was rebuilt in the 1902 from ruins due to the collapse of the former bell tower, the Giraldo. In the early 1990s modern coloured windows were installed, and in 2006 the old baroque organ from Julián de la Orden was recovered.

[edit] Saint Peter church (Iglesia de San Pedro)

With Romanic origins, the church was rebuilt by Jose Martin de la Aldehuela during the XVIII century and features since that moment a baroque façade. It shows an octogonal shape outdoors but it is circular inside, and it is located at Plaza del Trabuco, with near stunning views of the city and the surrounding mountains. A lot of weddings are celebrated here.

  • Saint Michael church (Iglesia de San Miguel)
  • San Felipe Neri Church
  • Our Lady of Light church (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de La Luz)
  • El Salvador church
  • Las Petras convent
  • Saint Paul bridge (Puente de San Pablo)
  • Seminary
  • Parador Nacional de Turismo, The old Saint Paul convent
  • Bishop Palace. Since 1588 it contains a museum of art with goldworks, Flemish tapestries and paintings from artists such as Ribera, Van Dyck and El Greco.
  • El Castillo: An Arabic alcazar which, for some centuries, housed the local seatl of Holy Inquisition.
  • Mangana tower. A watch tower commanding the city, what remains of an Arabic fortress.
  • Town Hall
  • Las casas colgadas ("Hanging Houses"). They house the Museo de Arte Abstracto ("Museum of Abstract Arts").
  • Cuenca's Province council

[edit] Quote

"Most Spanish towns faced with Cuenca's need to expand in the 18th century would have spread out along the surrounding countryside. But Cuenca, perched on the top of a hill, turned not to the earth but to the sky. Its improbable solution stands all along that part of the town that clings to the side of the hill and that faces the River Huécar: its hanging houses. The flat-fronted dwellings in the Barrio de San Martìn, so starkly simple a child could draw them, rise seven or eight teetering stories above a ravine and the River Huécar to the east. It is as if the town were trying to outgrow itself, reaching ever higher in an effort to compensate for the ravine below."

— Isabel Sota, from "Hanging Houses of Cuenca", in the October 21, 1990 edition of The New York Times

[edit] Name origin

Its name may derive from the Latin conca meaning "river basin", referring to the gorge of the rivers Júcar and Huécar. It may also be derived from the now-ruined Arab castle, Kunka. Other alternative original names have been suggested, including "Anitorgis", "Sucro" or "Concava". The city of Cuenca is also known as the "Eagle's Nest" because of its precarious position on the edge of a gorge.

[edit] Transports

The city is a popular day or weekend trip from Madrid. to which it is conveniently connected by rail (RENFE), by Bus (Auto Res 2 hour or 2:30 hour trip duration) and by highway (166 km), taking the A-3 (Madrid - Valencia) and leaving at Tarancón junction to take the A-42 to Cuenca. Within two or three years a new high-speed rail link is foreseen to be set up between Cuenca and Madrid, making the trip last only 45 minutes. AVE

[edit] Climate

The climate of Cuenca is the typical continental mediterranean of Spain's "Meseta" (inner plateau). Winters are cold, but summers are quite hot. Spring and Autumn seasons are short, with pleasant temperatures during the day but with rather cold nights due to its altitude: 956m above sea level, up to 1000m in the old town.

Average / Month Average Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
High temperature Celsius 18.8 9.4 11.1 14.2 15.7 20.1 25.9 30.7 30.3 25.5 16.6 13.1 10
Low temperature Celsius 6.3 -0.7 0.3 1.7 4.9 7.6 11.7 14.7 14.8 11.3 6.8 2.7 0.7
Precipitation millimetres year: 507 45 41 32 56 60 44 15 17 47 53 49 58
Source: AEMET

[edit] External links

Coordinates: 40°04′N 2°09′W / 40.067°N 2.15°W / 40.067; -2.15

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