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Sake International
Willem Kortekaas
My Favorite SAKE Willem Kortekaas
The complexity of the taste of the sake itself is matched by the components that make up the enjoyment of sake. The enjoyment is much influenced by personal considerations like food, company, and surroundings. My choices of sake tend to be influenced also by a sense of being connected to the "source", be it the brewery, or a trusted supplier.The following two sakes I buy in a liquor shop in Azumabashi, Sumida-ku. Nishizawa specializes in junmai sake and in shochu. It is also one of the places where, in the middle of Asahi Beer territory, one can unashamedly purchase a case of Kirin. Nishizawa-san as well as his son are trusted advisors, and usually the choice of sake for the evening is not made until several competing brands have been sampled. "Hiwata", produced by Hagino Shuzo, a small (500 koku) brewer in Miyagi Pref. Hiwata is a Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu. Its flavours are subtle but without losing any of the nama genshu characteristics. Miyagi kobo is used, resulting in 1.7 acidity. The Sake Meter Value is +4. "Yoemon", a Junmai Nama Genshu produced by Kawamura Shuzo, also a relatively small (800 koku) brewer in Iwate Pref. A fresh and fruity flavour, acidity 2.0 and Sake Meter Value +2.0One of the well-known breweries in Northern Ibaraki is Kiuchi Shuzo, established in 1823 by one of the forefathers of the current owner (http://www.kodawari.cc). Well known for its sake, but also for its "ji-biru" that is sold under the brand name "Nest beer". Their sakes are sold under the brand name "Kikusakari". Kiuchi has its own organically grown rice produced on farms close to the brewery. One of my favorites is their seasonal Shiboritate Muroka Genshu (unfiltered and undiluted, straight from the brewing vessel). Kiuchi has modified one of the standard yeast varieties for its sakes. The resulting flavour in this Shiboritate is rich, sometimes almost overpowering, but very satisfying. Sake Meter Value +/- 0 and 1.5 acidity.
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