What Will You Be Purchasing?

Protect your investment by ordering your Phase Inspection Today

I offer a Seven-Part Phase Inspection for new construction that complies to the current International Residential Code (IRC) and International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) along with the guidelines from the Texas Department of Insurance

These generally exceed the local building inspection departments’ standards. Other trades persons often alter, bore, cut, and notch structural materials to get their systems installed. All of this is done after the City Building Inspection Department or Authority Having Jurisdiction has issued the Foundation and Framing “Green Tag”.  Other defects not limited to but including items that allow moisture intrusion may also be built into your home. These defects compromise the integrity of your home and have been documented in total loss of entire properties and the monies invested!

Depending on time of notification the 7 inspections are broken down into:

1. Subterranean Utilities
2. Foundation Form to Pour
3. First Framing
4. Roof-Windows-Dry In
5. All Utilities Rough-First Exterior Finishes
6. Final Framing-Second Exterior Finishes-Insulation
7. Final Inspection of finished Structure-Electrical-Mechanical-Plumbing Systems-Appliances and Optional Equipment that is contracted for inspection

Typically included systems:

• Structural
• Foundation
• Electrical
• Plumbing
• Mechanical
• Appliances 

Optional systems:

• Gas
• Swimming Pool
• Hot tub
• Lawn sprinklers
• Out buildings
• Outdoor cooking equipment
• Water wells
• Septic
• Security
• Fire protection
• Features unique to a particular property

TRCC Standards

From the Texas Department of Insurance

Phase Inspection Guidelines

Under normal circumstances, at least four separate categories of structural inspections will be necessary to determine compliance with the applicable building construction requirements. Inspections shall be requested prior to the installation of any type of covering which would impede my inspections. In order to inspect all fastener patterns, the number of inspections may exceed four; a charge will be assessed for each inspection(s). I add 2 (two) more inspections to cover all of the items not listed below and the 7th Final Inspection upon completion.

The four categories shall be as follows:

1. FOUNDATION - Inspections for slab on grade foundations shall be requested after placement of reinforcement, but prior to pouring of concrete. Inspections for pile foundations shall be requested during driving of the piles. Inspections for pier and beam foundations shall be requested prior to the installation of floor members, which would impede my thorough inspection.

The following are the major items, which will be examined during the foundation inspection:

• Monolithic Slab on Grade Foundation:

a. Reinforcement of slab.

b. Type of anchor bolts.

c. Placement of holddown anchors.

d. Dowels for masonry construction.

e. Offsets for masonry or masonry veneer walls (proper brick ledge).

• Piling Foundation:

a. Embedment of piles.

b. Size and spacing of piles.

c. Concrete piles properly reinforced.

d. Wood piles properly pressure treated.

e. Anchorage of beams to piles.

f. Size of beams.

g. Floor joist span, size, and spacing.

h. Anchorage of floor joists to beams.

i. Height of lowest structural member.

• Pier and Beam Foundation:

a. Proper size and depth of buried footings.

b. Proper size of piers.

c. Reinforcement of piers.

d. Reinforced concrete or grout fill in hollow masonry units.

e. Size of Beams.

f. Anchorage of sills or beams to piers, and piers to footings.

g. Floor joist span, size, and spacing.

h. Anchorage of floor joists to beams and/or sills.

i. Treatment of beams with wood preservative, where required.

Where applicable BUILDING CODE FOR WINDSTORM RESISTANT CONSTRUCTION Amendments Effective April 1, 2001

2. ROUGH FRAMING - The Rough Framing inspections should be requested prior to the installation of any type of covering which would keep the inspector from being able to verify the required connector or fastener patterns.

The following are the major items, which will be examined during the rough framing inspection:

• Floor Framing:

a. Floor joist span, size, and spacing.

b. Floor decking type and application.

• Wood Stud Wall Framing:

a. Spacing of sole plate anchors in exterior and interior walls.

b. Proper size of washers.

c. Sole plate pressure treated.

d. Grade and seasoning (moisture content) of lumber.

e. Size and spacing of studs.

f. Anchorage provided by framing anchors.

g. Anchorage of studs to plates (top and bottom).

h. Construction and anchorage of headers.

i. Installation and location of lateral wall bracing.

j. Bracing of fireplace chimney.

k. Anchorage of second story to the first story.

l. Anchorage of beams, if required.

• Masonry Walls:

a. Size and spacing of vertical reinforcement.

b. Size and placement of bond beam reinforcement.

c. Length of shearwalls.

d. Construction and span of lintels.

e. Masonry wall connections.

• Ceiling Framing:

a. Bracing of gable endwall, if required.

• Roof Framing:

a. Roof joists or rafters (spans, sizes, and spacing).

b. Bracing and anchoring of roof joists and rafters.

c. Installation of collar ties.

d. Anchorage of rafters and joists to top plate.

e. Roof truss design, construction, installation, and anchorage.

f. Roof decking type and application.

g. Fastening of roofing underlayment.

Where applicable BUILDING CODE FOR WINDSTORM RESISTANT CONSTRUCTION Amendments Effective April 1, 2001

• Miscellaneous:

a. Construction of awnings, overhangs and porches.

b. Installation and design of windows.

c. Installation and design of doors and garage doors.

3. FINAL FRAMING - The final framing inspection should be requested prior to installation of insulation and concealment of fastener patterns of exterior coverings and roof coverings. Reroofing inspections will also fall into this category.

The following are the major items, which will be examined during the final framing inspection:

a. Knee braces installed, if required by design.

b. Attachments to foundation below flood level.

c. Alterations in structural members.

d. Type and fastening of wall sheathing or other exterior wall finish.

e. Type and spacing of masonry anchors.

f. Application of roof covering.

g. Installation of roof vents.

h. Venting of attic space.

i. Installation or presence of window protection, if required.

j. Installation of gypsum sheathing board, if gypsum diaphragms are required.

4. MECHANICAL INSPECTION - The mechanical inspection should be requested when all outside mechanical equipment has been anchored (where applicable), particularly air conditioner condensers. This inspection may be performed at the time of the final framing inspection if the outside mechanical equipment is secured at that time. The major item(s), which will be examined during the mechanical equipment inspection, is anchorage of exterior air conditioner equipment. However, anchorage (where applicable) of any other exterior equipment, such as floodlights, turbine vents, propane tanks, swimming pool filters, water-cooling towers, and satellite dishes will also be inspected.

To schedule appointments or if you have any questions concerning the timing of inspections, or concerning the construction guidelines, you are encouraged to contact the inspector.

50 Common Problems With New Home Construction

1. "Consumer didn't purchase Inspections"
2. Attic furnace does not have the required working platform in front of the furnace for servicing.
   This makes it difficult to service the unit or change the filter. A structurally sound working platform, 30" deep with clear headroom of 30" high, is required along the entire control side of the furnace or other equipment located in the attic.
3. Attic insulation certification card is missing.
   This is required to verify the attic has the proper amount of insulation. The insulation installer shall provide a signed and dated certification for the insulation installed, listing the type of insulation, the manufacturer and the R-value.
4. Attic insulation is not deep enough.
   Sometimes the insulation settles and is not deep enough. The insulation installer certifies the minimum thickness of the insulation.
5. Attic insulation thickness markers are missing.
   One thickness marker is required every 300 s.f. of floor area. Thickness markers shall identify the thickness of roof/ceiling blown insulation.
6. Attic is missing fire stopping at an open chase.
   A chase is an opening in the attic floor that could allow a fire, from the story below, to enter the attic. All openings in the attic floor need sealing with drywall. Fire stopping is required at each floor, at the attic floor and at all roof penetrations.
7. Attic is missing flooring from the end of the attic stairs to the furnace.
   This makes it dangerous to climb over the stairs to access the flooring at the furnace. All attics must have an unobstructed, floored passageway 22" wide x 30" high to the furnace.
8. Attic pull down stair is missing weather-stripping.
   Unconditioned attic air can enter the conditioned space. Any opening from a conditioned space to a non-conditioned space must be weather-stripped or sealed.
9. Attic stair is not insulated and is the largest source of heat loss and heat gain thru the attic. Recommend installing an insulated cover over the stair. Insulated covers can be purchased from Battic Door at (508) 320-9082 or www.batticdoor.com. Cost is $29.50.
10. Basement ceiling height is too low.
    Basement ceiling ducts are too low and will prevent installing a ceiling at the proper height. Habitable rooms shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet 6 inches. Furred areas shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet.
11. Basement ceiling needs fire stopping around all pipe penetrations.
    Fire stopping prevents a fire from spreading to different parts of the structure. Fire stopping is required at all openings around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys and fireplaces at ceiling and floor levels, with noncombustible materials.
12. Bedroom windows not large enough to be used for an emergency exit.
    Each bedroom shall have an operable window with a sill height no more than 44" above the floor. Minimum clear height of 22" or minimum width of 20". The net clear opening shall be 4 square feet.
13. Chimney height is improper.
    This could be a potential fire hazard. All chimneys shall extend 2' higher than any portion of roof within 10' and at least 3' higher than the roof penetration.
14. Deck footings are smaller than the minimum allowable size of 12" x 12".
    See Section R403.1.1 Minimum size. The size of footings supporting piers and columns shall be based on the tributary loads and allowable soil pressure in accordance with Table R401.4.1.
15. Deck footings do not extend 12" below grade.
    All footings must be below the frost line. In no case shall exterior footings be less than 12 inches below grade.
16. Deck Stair handrail is improper.
    Handrails that are 2x4 or larger are too large to be used for handrails since they cannot be gripped. Handrails shall have either a circular cross section with a diameter of 1 1/4" to 2", or a noncircular cross section with a perimeter dimension of at least 4" but not more than 6 1/4" and a largest cross section dimension not exceeding 2 3/4". Edges shall have a minimum radius of 1/8".
17. Door to the basement is missing a door sweep and weather-stripping.
    Unconditioned air can enter the conditioned space. Any opening from a conditioned space to a non-conditioned space must be weather-stripped or sealed.
18. Doors and windows are missing shims and anchors along the jambs.
    All doors and windows need shimming along the jambs (sides) and proper anchorage for a proper installation. Materials, equipment and devices approved by the building official shall be constructed and installed in accordance with such approval.
19. Exterior deck is missing properly installed flashing.
    Flashing prevents water from entering behind the deck and into the structure. Flashing is required where decks attach to a wall or floor assembly of wood frame construction. Exterior balconies, decks and porches shall be flashed in accordance with Section 703.8.
20. Exterior openings in the structure are not sealed.
    This will allow air leaks into the structure. All exterior joints in the building envelope, that are sources of air leaks, shall be caulked, gasketed, weather-stripped or otherwise sealed in an approved manner.
21. Exterior windows and doors do not have properly installed flashing and weep holes at the brick.
    Flashing is required above all doors and windows installed in brick and prevents water from soaking behind the brick running into the structure. Without weep holes to drain the water to the outside, flashing serves no purpose. Flashing and weepholes are required at all brick shelf angles over all doors and windows.
22. Exterior wood not properly protected.
    Some of the exterior wood has open joints which will allow moisture to enter and will cause deterioration. Some of the paint is peeling off the wood trim. The trim may not be properly primed to bond the paint to the wood. Proper caulking and painting are needed. All exterior walls shall be covered with approved materials designed and installed to provide a barrier against the weather.
23. Exterior wood siding trim not properly caulked or sealed at the brick or concrete foundation walls to prevent water and moisture from damaging the wood.
    Water will run behind the wood and cause deterioration.
24. Fireplace gas starter valve is not accessible while lighting the starter.
    This allows a dangerous build up of gas before being able to light the burner. Fireplace gas starters must be within 4' of the valve.
25. Fireplace has wood trim within too close to the opening.
    Wood too close to the opening is a fire hazard and could catch fire. Woodwork or other combustible materials shall not be placed within 6 inches of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches of the fireplace opening shall not project more than1/8 inch for each 1-inch distance from such opening.
26. Foundations with improperly compacted fill.
    Could probe under the footings. Fills, which support footings and foundations, shall be designed, installed and tested in accordance with accepted engineering practices.
27. Furnace ductwork not proper sealed to prevent air leakage in nonconditioned areas.
    Sometimes the duct insulation is sealed, but the actual ducts are not sealed. All ducts must be sealed at the furnace and at the register boots. All joints shall be securely fastened and sealed with welds, gaskets, mastic adhesives, mastic-plus-embedded-fabric systems or tapes.
28. Garage floor does not slope enough to prevent liquids from running under the walls.
    Flammable liquids could run under the walls into the structure and be ignited by the basement furnace or water heater. That area of floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway.
29. Garage furnace and water heater gas piping is not protected from possible impact.
    An automobile could hit the piping and cause a gas leak. The pipe must be protected from possible impact.
30. Grading does not slope properly away from the foundation.
    Lots should be graded to drain surface water away from foundation walls. The grade away from foundation walls shall fall a minimum of 6" within the first 10 feet.
31. Grading holds runoff water.
    The standards require all drainage to be diverted away from the yard. Surface drainage shall be diverted to a storm sewer conveyance or other point of collection. 
32. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a wet location.
    Any electrical outlet located in the bathrooms, kitchen counter area, unfinished basement, garage or on the exterior of the structure that can be reached from the ground, must be GFCI protected.
33. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlet is missing at a sink.
    Any electrical outlet located within 6 feet of a sink or basin must be GFCI protected.
34. Improper wall bracing for a 1 or 2 story structure.
    The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. Exterior walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with approved structural sheathing or 1x4 let-in braces or approved metal straps diagonally tied from the bottom plate to the top plate.
35. Improper wall bracing for a 3-story structure.
    The corner exterior walls are missing proper bracing. All exterior corner walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 feet with a minimum of 48" of approved structural sheathing.
36. No heating and air conditioning damper system present to balance the heating and air conditioning.
    A two-story structure with a single heat and air conditioning system, will find it difficult to balance the heat and cooling. A readily accessible manual or automatic damper system shall be provided to partially restrict or shut off the heating and/or cooling input to each zone or floor.
37. No vapor barrier present for a concrete slab.
    This could allow water or moisture problems in the basement. A vapor barrier is required under all interior slabs except garages.
38. Range is missing anti-tip brackets on the rear feet to prevent tipping over.
    All manufacturers supply anti-tip brackets with all freestanding ranges to prevent tipping. A heavy object such as a turkey can be placed on the open door causing the range to tip spilling hot liquids from the burners.
39. Roof framing support members have "V" joint or bird mouth splices that are not properly reinforced or supported by a support post to a load bearing wall below.
    All load bearing beams must be supported at any splice. Roof framing shall be capable of supporting all loads imposed and shall transmit the resulting loads to its supporting structural elements.
40. Roof purlin supports, supporting the rafters, are double 2x4s, which are not the proper size.
    The purlins should be single 2x6s turned perpendicular to the rafters, which are stronger and less expensive than flat double 2x4s. Purlins shall be sized no less than the size of the rafters they support.
41. Roof shingles are missing roofing felt at the sheathing along the eaves.
    This protects the roof sheathing. Starting at the eave, apply 36-inch wide sheets of underlayment...
42. Roof shingles have toe board nail holes present.
    Toe boards are walk boards the roofer’s use. Any holes in the shingles could turn into a roof leak. All shingles with holes should be replaced or sealed with a sealant that will last as long as the shingles. Recommend sealing the shingles with a one-part urethane sealant. The proper procedure in sealing the holes is to raise the shingle and install the sealant under the hole. Then the shingle is mashed flat and the sealant should run out the hole. Roof shingles shall provide a barrier against the weather to protect its supporting elements and structure beneath.
43. Some of the exterior cement siding has recessed nails.
    Recessed nails loose their holding strength in fiber cement siding. All manufacturers require the nails to be flush and not recessed. The recessed nails should be caulked and another flush nail installed next to it.
44. Some of the rafter purlins are spliced between the support posts.
    Support members are not allowed to be spliced without additional support installed. All purlins should be spliced directly above a support post. Purlins must be continuous between braces.
45. Some of the rafter purlins support post exceeds 48 inches apart.
    Additional support posts are required to properly support the purlins. All rafter purlins must be braced every 48 inches to a load bearing wall or support.
46. Some of the roof framing has ridge beams that are too small and do not extend to the bottom of the rafters.
    The ridge must extend down to the bottom of the rafters to properly support the rafters. The ridge shall not be less in depth than the cut end of the rafters.
47. Stair tread nosing or overhang extends too far over the step below.
    The edge of the steps could break with the grain of the wood allowing someone to fall down the stairs. The maximum allowable overhang is 1 1/4".
48. Stairs are missing a 36" deep landing at the bottom of the stairs between the bottom step and the door.
    Any flight of stairs that are used for an emergency exit must have a landing at the bottom before opening a door. A minimum of 3 foot landing shall be required on each side of an egress door.
49. Step flashing is missing at sloped vertical walls.
    Some of the roof flashing at the vertical walls is continuous flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering at the intersection of the wall and the roof. Continuous flashing was used successfully for many years. However, step flashing is a far superior method of flashing and is required for all roofing. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be the step-flashing method.
50. Step heights or tread depths are not the proper size.
    These are potential trip hazards. The maximum allowable step height is 7 3/4". The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9".
51. Step heights or tread widths vary in a flight of stairs. The different step heights or widths could be a trip hazard. Risers (heights) and treads (widths) may not vary more than 3/8"... this is just a small fraction of what may be wrong with the structural, mechanical, electrical, and plumbing systems being installed in YOUR new home... 

INDUSTRY ESTIMATES THAT 85% OF ALL NEW HOMES HAVE DEFECTS 15% MAY BE MAJOR

By Don McGonagil, Columnist Saturday, 15 July 2006

Protect your investment Whether you’re building a new home or buying an existing one, hire an experienced real estate lawyer and a qualified home inspector. An attorney should review your contract before you sign it, and also any home warranty. Builders sometimes warranty home systems, but not all states regulate the warranty programs or post bonds to secure performance. Make sure the purchase contract includes an inspection contingency and clauses that protect you. New home problems Industry estimates claim that nearly 85 percent of all new homes have defects, and 15 percent of these homes may have serious problems, including faulty foundations, dangerous moisture intrusion and inadequate framing. Often these problems show up months or even years after the buyer has moved in and the builder has moved on. Many of these new starter castles will be lucky to survive their mortgage. Experts agree that the fast pace of construction is a cause. They point to several other contributing factors. The success of the luxury home building market has been phenomenal. Favorable interest rates have made trophy homes more affordable to the moderately wealthy. Dealing with problems in newly-built homes Builders are under pressure to keep costs down so homes are affordable and profitable. Demands for energy efficiency and environmentally-sound products mean that homes today are more complicated to build.   The potential for serious defects in newer homes makes it imperative for homebuyers to be vigilant before they sign a contract or go to closing. If you’re building a new home, research your builder by consulting your local Better Business Bureau for a complaint history. Most importantly, talk to residents of other housing developments by the same builder. All new houses have problems. What is important is how the builder handles them. If you’ve already bought or built and think you have a serious problem, give the builder a chance to fix it, but don’t let warranties or statutes expire while you wait. Document your complaints with photos, copies of written agreements, and warranties and a home inspection. Follow up with state building and regulatory authorities if the builder fails to deliver. As a last resort, contact a lawyer who specializes in construction-defect lawsuits. Your local bar association can help you find one. Don McGonagil can be reached at thehomeinspectioncompany.com http://www.nashvillecitypaper.com/index.cfm?section_id=11&screen=news&news_id=50968

Buyer Bewitched
Don’t you know, new houses are plagued by sloppy construction
by Walter Jowers

About this time of year, just before spring house-shopping time, I feel an urge to share a little inside house-buying dope with eager would-be homebuyers.

First of all, let me tell you the upside of owning a home. Having your very own house, in a neighborhood that you love, is a wonderful thing. Wife Brenda and I share a weakness for old houses in old neighborhoods, where sidewalks connect every front porch and 100-year-old trees shade the whole neighborhood. We’ve lived in two such houses in Nashville. Both turned out to be good homes and good investments.

But after a 20-year run in the home inspection business, I know that some folks don’t have such good house-buying luck. Over the last 10 years or so, I saw my home inspection company transform from a little homespun advice-giving business into more of a litigation-support and expert-witness business.

Best I can tell, it’s getting harder for folks to find a good house—especially a brand-new, fresh-out-of-the-ground house. And it’s getting harder to buy a house without somebody unfairly manipulating you along the way.

The newly built houses I’ve seen in the last 10 years have been uniformly plagued by sloppy construction. During this time, the labor pool has been made up mostly of unskilled workers doing substandard work. In new developments, roofs tend to leak, walls and windows leak, brick veneer cracks, and decks rot prematurely. Apparently, unskilled workers are having trouble reading instructions. For instance, a few years ago, I walked into the crawl space of a new house and found the whole house supported by a dozen or so steel columns. Each column had a big red label that read: “Not for use in new construction.”

From what I’ve seen, there are few, if any, carpenters who can perform the simple task of installing a folding attic stair. Every stair comes with a big label that shows how to install it, along with little labels that show where the nails and lag screws should go. Even so, installers routinely cut the stairs too short or too long, and put drywall screws into the very holes that are labeled, “Nail here.” Just so you’ll know: Using screws where you should be using nails can cause an attic folding stair to collapse—while you’re on it.

Hint to homebuyers: The cheap labor on new construction is extremely expensive in the long run. Builders know this. But they won’t tell you. When you complain about growing leaks and cracks in your new house, the boss man will most likely send an unskilled guy to squeeze caulk into the gaps. He’ll do that until your home warranty runs out. Then you’ll be stuck with the cost of fixing the original slipshod work.

Meanwhile, home inspectors are being licensed by their respective states. That’s good, right? Well, no. It’s mostly bad. Here’s why: The folks who build and sell houses have lobbyists who make sure their state legislators take care of their interests. The rules and regulations that apply to home inspectors are meant to make money for builders and sales folk. Protecting consumers is a low priority.

A few examples: In North Carolina, home inspectors were recently instructed to leave safety issues out of their report summaries. That’s because most homebuyers skim the boring body of their inspection report and rely on the summary. If safety issues—for instance, fire hazards, electrical shock hazards, asphyxiation hazards, trip-and-fall hazards—are buried in the body of the report, buyers likely won’t read the worrisome warnings, get nervous and walk away from deals. Builders, sales folk and state legislators know this. But they won’t tell you to read the whole report.

Up in Kentucky, the state Board of Home Inspectors (KBHI) recently issued an advisory to home inspectors, telling them to take it easy on old Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) electrical panels, which many experts say are prone to failure and likely to start a fire. Says the KBHI: “There is no current documentation from any source that states the FPE panels and breakers are a hazard.... To assume so without current documentation is incorrect and irresponsible.” And there’s this: “To...recommend the removal of FPE panels and breakers...is irresponsible and could cause the homeowner undue financial hardship.” Put more simply, burying information about faulty electrical panels might hurt home sales.

There’s plenty of documentation about the flaws in old FPE panels, including Dan Friedman’s website (inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm), which is well known to conscientious home inspectors. Surely, Kentucky has some home inspectors who know about Friedman’s extensive documentation. But the KBHI isn’t directing anybody to Friedman’s website.

Down in Alabama, real estate sales folk have a clause in their contracts that protects house sales by blessing old aluminum wiring. Never mind that research sponsored by the Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) showed that houses wired with pre-1972 aluminum wire were 55 times more likely to reach fire hazard conditions than houses wired with copper. In Alabama, aluminum wiring is not a “hazardous condition,” because, as the sales contracts say, “conditions that meet current governmental guidelines are not considered hazardous.” How’s that for having your sparky wires and getting your commission too?

Best I know, Tennessee’s home inspector laws have yet to sprout any blatantly anti-consumer features. That’s good. But every year, our legislators have a chance to make life better for sales folk and worse for homebuyers. The sales folk will be watching legislation closely. If you’re thinking about buying a house, you should too.

http://www.nashvillescene.com/Storie...yer_Bewitched/

I strongly encourage you to accompany the inspector so that you may ask questions and gain a better understanding of the systems in the home.

If you have any questions, or are interested in any other inspection services, please contact me so we may discuss your specific needs.