BEST USE OF DUCK FAT: Bacar's Mesquite Grilled Rib EyeBacar
San Francisco, CA What separates executive chef Robbie Lewis’ prime rib from the meaty pack? A nice, long relaxing bath…in duck blubber. The mesquite grilled rib eye steak ($34) is first slow-cooked in a low-temperature pool of herbal-scented Daffy lard. It’s yanked from the puddle as the steak reaches rare, and is quickly finished off on a mesquite grill. “You get the best of both worlds,” says Chef Lewis. “The flavors of slow-cooked meat, charred and grilled over smoky mesquite.” And he’s not just blowing smoke, friends. bacarsf.com —
Tami Von IsakovicsSLICKEST SECRET INGREDIENT: BloodNava Thai Noodle and Grill RestaurantWheaton, MDTucked in a corner of a tiny parking lot, sandwiched between air-conditioning units and a Waste Management Dumpster, Nava Thai’s furtive location is part of its appeal—much like the secret ingredient in their $7.95 Floating Market Noodle Soup: cow’s blood. “It makes the soup thicker and a little bit sweeter,” says owner and chef Ladavan Srigatesook. With spiced meatballs, slices of flank steak, fried pork rinds, bean sprouts, veggies, and a tangle of fat rice noodles in a rich brown broth (that’s the blood), this may be the most complex (and scariest) soup you’ve ever had.
—Tim CarmonMOST KICK-ASS DONUT: The “Grills With”White Spot Charlottesville, VAThe $3.25 “Grills With” is the patron saint of hung-over UVA coeds. The premise is simple—two grilled glazed donuts topped with ice cream—but the devil is in the details. The griddle, seasoned by decades of beef patties, bacon, and eggs, caramelizes the donuts’ sugary coating and warms the doughy insides. The finishing touch is an upturned cafeteria cup of vanilla ice cream. Sweet and savory, soft and crunchy, warm and cold, this donut does it all.—
Oliver Sharpe BEST THREE-IN-ONE: The Garbage PlateNick Tahou Hots, Inc. Rochester, NYIf you can’t decide what you want, head to Rochester, where the Garbage Plate lives ($6). A base of any combination of home fries, macaroni salad, baked beans, or french fries is topped by your choice of cheeseburgers, hamburgers, fish, sausages, eggs, fried ham, chicken tenders, veggies, or grilled cheese, and is dressed with mustard, onions, and Nick Tahou’s hot sauce (brown and mysterious). We get indigestion just writing about it. garbageplate.com —
Dan BovaBEST USE OF MASHED POTATOES: The Lobster Shepherd’s PieThe American RestaurantKansas City, MOJames Beard Foundation Award–winning chef Celina Tio has crafted the most divine dish out of the lowly spud: The taters are whipped into a buttery, creamy froth and squeezed into miniature poofs. Add lobster morsels married with gently simmered baby carrots and pearl onions and you’ve got a party in your mouth for $20. theamericankc.com —
Lauren ChapinBEST FOOD-ON-A-STICK BREAKTHROUGH: Deep-Fried Spaghetti and Meatballs Oodles of Noodles, Minnesota State Fair (Aug. 21–Sept. 1)St. Paul, MNAmerican ingenuity at its finest: Servers create a meatball cocoon around a wad of spaghetti, pop it in the deep fryer, and shove a stick in it. The sensation of eating this crunchy on the outside, hot and moist on the inside, $4 monster has been described as “vaguely erotic” and “like heaven, with extra oregano.” Stroll the grounds and, with each bite, metaphorically extend a middle finger to the corn dog old guard. mnstatefair.org —
Lizz WinsteadCRUNCHIEST FAUX FRIES: Polenta Fries FascinoMontclair, NJEight dollars gets you a stack of “fries” and deliciously heavy gorgonzola fondata dipping sauce. “People don’t order it as an app,” says executive chef Ryan DePersio. “They order it while looking at the menu, midcourse, or with entrees.” We suggest all three. fascinorestaurant.com —
Eric Levin
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