Princess Victoria
London’s best gastropubs
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Photography Michael Franke
Posted: Thu Sep 4 2008 -
For every boarded-up London local, there seems to be a new gastropub opening, with the usual suspects on the menu, and precious little pub in evidence. But which of these taverns cut the (organic English) mustard? Here are our favourites
See all winners in the Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2008
WINNER, ‘BEST NEW GASTROPUB’, TIME OUT EATING & DRINKING AWARDS 2008
Princess Victoria
The amount of effort and money that’s gone into refurbishing this former gin palace is apparent: stand outside and check the detail in the stonework on the upper floors, and the new slate roof. Step past the olive trees and rosemary bushes (a clue to the culinary delights to be found within) and there’s a spectacular horseshoe-shaped bar topped with white marble and walls of dusky blue-green. The large, convivial bar welcomes drinkers with plenty of space for sitting or standing, and pints of Timothy Taylor Landlord, Ruddles County, London Pride and a guest or seasonal ale such as Hop Back Brewery’s Summer Lightning; Peroni is on tap too. That would be terrific in itself but the wine list is one of the capital’s very best, put together with care and enthusiasm and offering a choice of 25cl or 50cl carafes as well as 175ml glasses.
In the roomy ground-floor restaurant a long communal dining table surrounded by smaller tables offering plenty of flexibility. Buttery, lemony herring roes on toast was the best we tried of the prettily presented starters. Steak and chips, both cooked just right, shows the kitchen’s happy to keep things simple but more ambitious dishes such as hake fillet with clams, smoked eel and macaroni are done with style too. Service is sweet and attentive, keen to help you explore the unfamiliar delights of the wine list. A great local, but also worth a special visit.
Princess Victoria, 217 Uxbridge Rd, W12 9DH (020 8749 5886/www.princessvictoria.co.uk). Shepherd’s Bush tube or 207, 260, 272, 283 bus. Feature continuesAdvertisementRUNNERS-UP
Carpenter’s Arms
We arrived early for our dinner reservation but rather then being happy for us to enjoy a drink at the bar, staff quickly arranged for us to be seated. And that’s the crux of the matter: for all the Carpenter’s Arms undoubted charms, it functions very much at the restaurant end of the gastropub spectrum. It offers just one real ale (Adnams Bitter on our visit), though Kronenbourg, Amstel, Guinness and Addlestone's Cider are also available. There’s an appealing beer garden, but anyone wanting to drink inside during dining hours may feel awkward. The food is usually knockout: bold Anglo-French fare with a frisson of excitement (such as our memorable sweetbreads with pickled grapes and turnips), so it’s a surprise the fries are so underwhelming. A gastropub should have good chips, we think.
Carpenter’s Arms, 91 Black Lion Lane, W6 9BG (020 8741 8386). Hammersmith tube.
Clissold Arms
Don’t be fooled by the modest street-side entrance: while the Clissold Arms’ front room looks a bit like a coffee lounge, the rear bar and dining area leave you in no doubt that this place is serious about beer, wine and food. A typical dinner menu stretches from traditional fish pie and sugar snap peas to the fusion fancies of pineapple carpaccio with saffron syrup, or squid salad with bacon, grapefruit, pomegranate and cucumber, given an aniseed kick from Thai basil. There’s usually a few options for two or three to share – a whole roast fish or chicken, say. This place is steadily evolving – recent additions include an attractive decked dining area at the rear and, to the side, a barbecue area.
Clissold Arms, 115 Fortis Green, N2 9HR (020 8444 4224). East Finchley tube.
Duke of Wellington
Another string to the impressive bow of Jamie Prudhom, he of the Pig’s Ear in Chelsea, the Brown Dog in Barnes and As Greek As it Gets. We loved the bonhomie of the ground-floor bar, where ales included Deuchars IPA, London Pride and Adnams Broadside. You can eat there, or head upstairs to the bijou dining room by the kitchen. Eight tables are squeezed into what was probably the original landlord’s sitting room, with a charming fireplace, pink gerberas, and lovely views of the church opposite adding a dash of romance. Despite the cramped conditions, staff remain sweetly cheerful as they slalom dishes such as pork cheeks in Pedro Ximinez, or chargrilled 30-day sirloin with pasta gratin and crisped bone marrow, around the tables.
Duke of Wellington, 94a Crawford St, W1H 2HQ (020 7723 2790/ www.thedukew1.co.uk). Marylebone tube/rail.
The Warrington
This third pub from Gordon Ramsay Holdings is a model refurbishment and a terrific pub… on the ground floor. However the first-floor dining room feels like an alien operation plonked on top – pearl and cool green tones rather reminiscent of haute cuisine flagship Royal Hospital Road. Still, the unusually long menu is appealing, with French dishes taking the major roles and British ingredients the supporting cast: Dorset snails with parsley butter, Casterbridge rib eye with chips and choron sauce. We (and the wealthy families surrounding us) liked the wide choice of sides – you may find you need them as main course portion sizes are modest. On-the-ball, knowledgeable service down in the bar contrasted with the sweet but dippy, amateurish staff waiting tables in the (let’s face it) smart first-floor bistro.
The Warrington, 93 Warrington Crescent, W9 1EH (020 7592 7960/ www.gordonramsay.com/thewarrington). Maida Vale or Warwick Avenue tube.
OLD FAVOURITES
Brown Dog
There's much to cherish about this gastropub tucked among the cute backstreet cottages on the border between Barnes and East Sheen. A handsome space by day, with its cream wood panelling and retro metal signs, it positively twinkles by night thanks to the warm wooden furniture, polished red ceiling and copper globe lamps above the central bar. The bar divides the smallish space into drinking and dining areas, and there's a back garden for summer lounging. It's upmarket but not stuffy, and the food can be very good (it was runner-up for Best Gastropub in the 2007 Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards). Expect seasonal ingredients and unfussy combinations, whether it's top-notch seafood, a lavish Sunday roast or comforting puds. Dogs (of any colour) are welcome, and there are tables outside.
Brown Dog, 28 Cross St, SW13 0AP (020 8392 2200/ www.thebrowndog.co.uk) Barnes Bridge rail/bus 11, 19, 22.Cow
Gun
The chairs and tables lining the walls of Tom Conran’s small ground-floor pub (with restaurant upstairs) are highly coveted, but priority in the larger rear section is given to diners, who come for the excellent Irish oysters and other scrumptious-looking fruits de mer displayed on crushed ice in a glass cabinet on the bar. Still, a confidently stylish crowd of drinkers, happy to stand, gather close by the bar to enjoy pints of ESB, London Pride and the weekly rotated guest ale. Around ten wines are available by the glass and though the list is international, France is the clear favourite. Novelties such as the little-known French aperitif Byrrh, based on red wine and quinine, also make an appearance.
Cow, 89 Westbourne Park Rd (W2 5QH (020 7221 0021/ www.thecowlondon.co.uk) Royal Oak or Westbourne Park tube.
Nelson (Lord Admiral, not Mandela) once drank here; these days, it’s mostly new-school Docklanders with expensive haircuts and perfect table manners, who are happy to pay for quality dishes such as braised shin of beef with parsnip purée or pan-fried lemon sole with new potatoes. There are cocktails (espresso martini, £6.50) and endless wines, as well as Abbot Ale, Adnams Broadside, Young’s, Guinness, Hoegaarden and more on tap. Best of all is the fantastic decked terrace (heated in winter) with views of the O2 and sporadic river traffic. A fine example of gastro as it should be done, but with a good balance between bar and kitchen.
Gun, 27 Coldharbour, E14 9NS, (020 7515 5222/ www.thegundocklands.com) Canary Wharf tube/DLR.
The Narrow
Gordon Ramsay’s first (and possibly most succeesful) forays into gastropub territory remains well received by Limehouse’s more moneyed residents. There’s plenty of space for actual drinking – the spacious bar, decked out in stylish stripes and greys, makes a fine place to indulge in quality ales (Deuchars IPA, Meantime wheat beer, London Pride) and wines (a Sancerre la Vigne Blanche at £20 a bottle perhaps?). Bottled beers include St Peter’s Organic and Wells’ Banana Bread. There are quality bar snacks (pint of prawns, Scotch egg with HP, traditional ploughman’s) with not a pack of Nobby’s Nuts in sight. The excellent restaurant boasts superb Thames views, as does the sunny beer terrace.
The Narrow, 44 Narrow St, E14 8DQ (020 7592 7950/ www.gordonramsay.com/thenarrow) Limehouse DLR.
Prince Arthur
Outside this imposing three-storey building large coaching lamps preside over four trestle tables; within, the pub is compact and cosy, beautifully restored in its original Victorian dark wood and green Anaglypta wallpaper. Wrapped round the bows of a sensationally handsome bar, the single room makes no distinction between diners and boozers – take a Pride or Deuchars IPA under the stuffed pheasants, or speculate about the aristo in tights and stuffed jaguar over a saddle of rabbit cassoulet or deep-fried triple jam sandwich with Carnation milk ice-cream. Even the lighting is perfectly pitched: low enough for atmosphere, easily bright enough to read a book. The clientele is a healthy mix of old men, fashionable young Chinese women and middle-aged architects poring over drawings.
Prince Arthur, 95 Forest Rd, E8 3BH (020 7249 9996/ www.theprincearthurlondonfields.com) Hackney Central or London Fields rail.
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10 comments
This pub is simply great. Such a great wine list with one of the best Havana cigar selections I've seen in a while. The wine list is full of absolute bargains and can even get hard to find rarities like Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir for well below standard wine list prices (£69 compared to £90 +). The food is always good and must admit I keep coming back for the same thing but hey ho I'm happy with the simplicity. Will definitely bring the family back on my next visit!
Oh I so wanted to like this pub but unfortunately I didn't. I am a local and had really been looking forward to it re-opening and is just what she bu needed All I can say it avoid it if you can as it really isnt deserving of this award at all.
Firstly the Sunday roast was v small and the potatoes were not home made, they were Aunt Bessies or something similar, maybe they had run out and substitued but this just isnt good enough for £12.50. The pudding was lovely but as previously mentioned also very small.
Secondly we were a large group of friends who had spent rather a lot of money on drinks and food, but when it came to sorting out the bill for the table the barman (who was American/Canadian) could not have made things more difficult or been any more rude if he tried. He repeatedly got confused and tried to blame us although it was completely his mistake. No apologies were made and it left us feeling a little bitter about the experience.
I'm afriad it will have to take a big change of heart for me to be returning to this pub.
Seems like rob doesnt like objective criticism then, T.O and Rob are one , no change there then. The comments concerned the atmosphere and food not the real ales by the way.
Obviously so called angry individuals have no say in Robs narrow world, no change there then !!!
It's great seeing this place doing so well whilst developing a great base of regular and new faces. Meanwhile successfully deterring angry little individuals who appear to suffer from Short Man Syndrome (see below). The Princess Victoria has the best kept Real Ales on the Uxbridge and a sure deal for dinner. Booking ahead is advised as Wednesday evening was rammed and needed to wait to get a table but was worth it. Highly Recommended.
Charming! x
My decision to avoid this gastropub was determined by the comments rather than the review....
"It’s also full of middle class people with real jobs and their children who can afford the prices, and know how to enjoy good food, real ales and even real wine, as almost every table has a bottle of wine or Champagne on it whenever we go in...."
Thanks Lucy. One to avoid.
Oh dear have I touched a raw nerve with Lucys reply, heres my observations to Lucys reply-
1) An unbelievably positive review of the Princess Victoria gastro by Lucy a so called local !!
2) Lucy omitted to say the so called bargain lunch in town consisted of only 2 choices of starter,main,and dessert,and not very inspiring at that.
3) She says the beer batter on the plaice was perfect, not much use on the smallest plaice I had seen or ever eaten.
Oh sorry I misunderstood, the desert portions are so small to stop us all getting obese now I know Lucy.
4) Well Lucy the majority of locals go to work during the day but its reassuring knowing you can go at least once a week for lunch.
Oh by the way I was there the last Friday you mention and the only busy place was the garden, the bar was completely empty.
5) Lucy equates its busy in the evenings, must be locals eating not the middle classes coming in from Fulham, Holland Park, N.H.G.
6) So Lucy only the middle class have real jobs do they,and only the middle class know how to appreciate good food, hmmm like I said this place is full of Lucys with attitudes like this, you can feel the pretention when you walk in .
7) When Lucy goes in the tables are all full of champagne and real wine(whatever that is) oh yes like I said only the middle class can afford the prices here .
8) Wow Lucy and T.O.are scholars of Melba Toast..... pretentious ?? well no change there then !!
Hi. I’m middle class and here’s my observation of the Princess Victoria gastro.
1) Its true, it’s not a joke, there is a 2 course lunch menu for £10 or 3 course for £13.50 during the week.
Poached salmon rillette as a starter should be no bigger than a child’s serve, after all the hint is in the category no (starter)? Often rillette is served with Melba toast (meant to be room temp BTW), and any side of salad served with a rillette should be barely dressed as to emphasise the rillette’s flavour and bring some structure to the dishes texture.
At £10 or £13.50 you can’t exactly expect a Bombalaska sized dessert, but I’d imagine my neighbors obese grandson would be disappointed too, although the pubs generous £5 dessert menu options would please him to no end.
I’ve tried the plaice and found the beer batter perfect, which is apparently made at the pub with London Pride. The triple cooked chips at lunch are just as delicious as the evening but if you’re use to tasting sweetened up aioli from supermarket tubes then you probably won’t understand a home made batch anyway?
So after my experiences would I go again yes, in fact I’m here for this bargain at least once a week.
2) So you say why go for the set meal, well it’s the best bargain in town, and I’m sure if you’ve tried any of the West Ends similar offers you’ll know it’s cheap as Time Out suggests.
3) The owners want to encourage locals to frequent the pub, good! Its obviously working as the place was very busy last Friday lunch and evenings are constantly busy with many locals and those who work locally (BBC etc).
It’s also full of middle class people with real jobs and their children who can afford the prices, and know how to enjoy good food, real ales and even real wine, as almost every table has a bottle of wine or Champagne on it whenever we go in, oh is it about time the bush had a place like this.
4) Its true, the waiting staff push you into litres of Free bottled water. After all, it’s been Free for diners since they opened!!
5) I suppose T.O does cater to those who know more about Melba toast than those who believe they’re above the system, so no change there then!!
O.K.observations of the Princess Victoria gastro.
1) The set lunch is a joke, 2 courses for £10 T.O thinks this is great value I beg to differ.
I had poached salmon rillette, toast, and rocket. The rocket was undressed,one slice of cold toast, and a tasteless mash of salmon no bigger than a childs portion.
For dessert I had red berry compote, well even a smaller portion that even my grandson of 5 would have said is that all !! and not very good at that.
O.K. maybe an off day, so I had another set lunch 2 days later, this time beer battered plaice, chips,and aioli.
The plaice was the smallest I had ever seen, the chips greasy and thick skinned, the aioli well forget it.
So after my two experiences would I go again no.
2) So you say why go for the set meal, well £15.00 for pork, or sea bass for a lunch isnt exactly cheap as T.O. suggests.
3) The owners want to encourage locals to frequent the pub well Im a local, and I can see not many will go here its full of middle class voices and their children who can afford the prices, and oh is it pretentious.
4) Beware the waiting staff seem to want to push you into buying litres of bottled water.
5) I suppose T.O always did cater for the middle class so no change there then !!
I remember the Princess Victoria fondly, used to live down the road at Cleverly Estate, now live in America.
Also used to be a bar maid at the Carpenters Arms, lovely pub !