Preventing Fungus and Mildew Attacks on Cameras and Lenses

Preventing Fungus and Mildew Attacks on Cameras and Lenses
by Robert Monaghan

Related Links:
Medium Format Home Page
Medium Format Cameras List Page
Lens Faults Hierarchy Page re:fungus
Lens Recoating FAQ
Conservation Online (books from fungus and mildew tips etc.) [01/2001]

Fungus can grow on the surfaces inside your lens, providing there is enough moisture (and a bit of dust or lens adhesive to "eat"). Over time, the fungus can etch into the surface of the glass, causing permanent damage to the lens performance. The etched spots in the lens glass alter the lens surface and characteristics, reducing performance significantly and contrast in particular. A fungus attack which hasn't altered the lens shape or etched into the glass, but only eaten away at the very thin outer lens anti-flare coating, is less damaging to lens performance. Once the lens coatings and surface are etched and damaged, removing the fungus won't return the lens to original performance levels. You have to replace the damaged lens elements, which is usually so expensive it is cheaper to just junk the lens.
I should warn you that many other problems are mistaken for fungus attacks. In particular, volatile lubricants used in lens diaphragms to reduce friction can evaporate in hot conditions (e.g., Texas heat waves). These chemicals can then deposit on the nearby glass lens surface, causing huge reduction in contrast and the appearance of a fungus infected lens. However, a lens can easily be cleaned of these contaminations using cleaning solutions (e.g., 50:50 hydrogen peroxide and household ammonia according to some repairpersons). So before you give up your lens, have it checked to be sure it isn't a less costly problem. True fungus attacks usually look like spidery webs of fungus colonies spreading out over your lens insides. You will probably need to check carefully with a small penlight shining through your lens to see these fungus colonies. Have you checked your lenses lately?
While fungus can be removed during a lens CLA (clean/lube/adjust), the damaged and etched lens elements may be costly to replace. Not every fungus spore will be removed during even the most thorough cleaning. Even if you sterilized the lens elements (not recommended), fungus spores would still be sucked into the lens during focusing and use. Many people warn against using real leather lens carrying cases or bags as a potent source of fungus infection. But there are enough fungus spores in the air (often hundreds per cubic meter) that lenses are easily infected in general use. So since you can't get rid of fungus spores, you simply have to make your lens an inhospitable "desert" in which fungus can't live or grow.
A recent announcement (by Zeiss) suggested that it may be possible to innoculate future lenses with coatings and surfaces which will discourage the growth of fungus. Great news for the future, but that doesn't help most of us with our current and older lenses today!
While it may be possible to have the lens surface reground and refigured, the high cost ($100-250 USD+) of this procedure makes it uneconomic for most lenses. Mechanically removing the fungus from the lens surface(s) with a lens CLA will improve the lens condition. If the fungus has not appreciably etched the lens surface, this cleaning might be sufficient. In other words, checking lenses in use and especially in storage can help detect lens fungus early and reduce the amount of damage and cost of repairs.

Drying Out vs. Fungus
The real solution to preventing lens fungus attacks is to reduce the available moisture, so the fungus cannot grow and multiply. The easy way to do this is with packets of chemicals which absorb moisture from the air. Silica gel is usually used for this purpose. A blue cobalt salt indicator chemical mixed in with the silica gel turns pinkish when the silica gel has absorbed all the water it can. The pink color is your warning that the silica gel is no longer working, and needs to be replaced or "recharged". Recharging is usually done in an oven, by heating the silica gel packet(s) at a low temperature (under 200 degrees F). This process drives out the water absorbed in the silica gel, making it effective again for absorbing water. You can repeat this process again and again, so the long term costs can be low.
However, there is a LOT of water in the air, especially in the tropics. Many photographers report getting fungus problems in just 4 to 6 weeks after traveling from a relatively dry climate to a wet tropical climate. To be really effective over longer term storage, you need to reduce the amount of airflow around the lenses. Otherwise, your silica gel packets will quickly absorb their limit of moisture from the air, and become ineffective.

Reducing Silica Gel Costs
You can buy prepackaged silica gel, and reuse such packets which are packed with new cameras and lenses. Most of these packets are rather tiny. My own approach is to use more silica gel, while buying in bulk to keep costs down. For example, you can buy five pounds (circa 2 1/2 kilograms) of silica gel for $12-15 USD in the form of flower drying crystals in most arts and crafts shops. This form of silica gel is a rather fine sandy mix with blue cobalt salt indicator in it. Most pet stores and department stores with a pets section will also stock silica gel. For example, Purina Tidy Cat Crystals provides 56 ounces ( 3 1/2 pounds or circa 1 1/2 kgms) of larger silica gel crystals for circa $10 USD. A couple of coffee filters and a small rubber band plus a spoon is all you need to make your own silica gel absorbant filters in whatever size or quantity you want.

A Personal Storage Example
I generally put lenses not in active use inside a generic house brand zip lock style baggie. I actually use the pricey Zip-loc (trademark) bags that come in 1 1/2 gallon sizes since they are the only bags big enough (13 inches by 11 inches by 5 inches when open) to hold even my biggest lenses and zooms. Otherwise, most of my longer lenses and camera bodies easily fit into the gallon bag size generic store brand zip-lock baggies (usually 10" x 11"). Individual small lenses fit in the quart sized generic baggies, as does film from shots stored in the fridge until processing. I put the lens plus silica gel packet into the baggie, drive out the excess air through an open corner right before I seal the baggie, and then roll the excess baggie around the lens. A bit of masking tape on the plastic or metal lens cap can make it easy to identify each lens. Simply label the lens cap with lens focal length(s), camera mount, and filter size. This trick is also handy when the lenses are in your camera bag too.
Storage of scores of lenses used to be a problem, and finding lenses and related items even more so. Then I discovered a series of large "under the bed" style storage boxes at Target and K-Mart. For prices ranging from $3 to $6, you can get a large clear plastic box with lid which can also be stacked in a compact space. Some of these boxes have holes under the hand grips to let air out. You can simply put some tape over these holes (after closing) to minimize air flow. I also use some bubble wrap on the bottom and sides of these containers to minimize jarring the lenses during access and moving boxes.
Over time, I've gotten enough bubble wrap to protect nearly each of the lenses in their baggies when put into longer term storage. Here again, I label each bubble wrapped item with what it is (e.g., lens type, mount) using masking tape and a marker. I use a couple of larger rubber bands to hold the bubble wrap around the lens (with front and rear lens caps). This trick makes it easier and safer to pack lenses closer together, making it easy to stack lenses in these clear boxes. The bubble packing can also be used during travel as lightweight extra protection, depending on your packing and travel approach.
Naturally, fungus can also grow in your camera bodies. Even more annoying, you can discover little mites crawling around in your viewfinder. Just try to ignore those little dots moving around in there! In short, it may not be a bad idea to protect your camera, with its focusing screens and glass prism surfaces and leather coverings. You may also want to store leather cases and the like separately to reduce the potential fungus sources.
Each box has all of the related camera items, so one box may be Kowa 6 SLR camera bodies and lenses, another will be bronica s2/EC, a box of nikon bodies and lenses, and so on. One box has longer T-mount and T4/TX mount lenses, of which I have a full set. I also recorded the serial numbers and data about each lens and camera item, including the lens filter sizes. You can use this information to ensure your camera insurance is adequate to cover losses too. The lens filter information is handy in highlighting trends or needs in filter adapters. You may also want to identify lenses with built-in lens hoods, and those which require lens hoods or compendium shades to cut flare.

Why UV Light Doesn't Work
A number of folks recommend exposing the lens to UV light to kill the fungus. This trick used to work pretty well, but most of today's lenses use lens adhesives which absorb UV light strongly (some are "cured" using UV, so absorb UV nearly 100%). See discussion on lens adhesives at our UV photography pages. Shortwave UV light is more likely to "sunburn" and damage your eyes than to reach the fungus in your lens. So I recommend against trying to use sources like germicidal lamps and UV EPROM eraser UV shortwave lights. Black UV light bulbs are also not effective, for the same reasons. Similarly, expose to sunlight may work on some older lenses, but the newer lenses have clear lens element adhesive layers that will block UV from reaching the inner lens elements.

Summary
The only really effective procedures are cleaning the lens to remove any fungus during a lens CLA, and keeping the lens in so dry an environment that fungus is discouraged or unable to grow (e.g., silica gel in sealed baggies).

Fungus Prevention Suggestions
by John S. Bond WA6FRN/6
Kingsnake Photography
http://www.humboldt1.com/~gyrgrls/

rec.photo.misc
From: kingsnake kingsnake@dm.net
[2] Repost: Re: Suggestions ...
Date: Mon Feb 16 1998

Two things favor mold and mildew the most:
1) Moisture. Silica gel can only be used once, without reactivation. Once the package containing the little pouches of anhydrous silica are opened, and you throw these pouches in a drawer to save them, they quickly saturate with moisture and soon are rendered 100% ineffective. For this reason, silica gel is almost always limited to use in hermetically sealed packages; you will seldom see it used elswhere.
OTOH:
Calcium chloride, available at most hardware stores, is better for a non-sealed environment, because you can tell when it's exhausted - the crystals will dissolve in their own moisture, leaving nothing but a solution in the container! The CaCl can be re-used by boiling the water away on a stove (it will NEVER evaporate at room temperature!). It is cheap, too - about $3 or $4 a pound at the most. It is used to keep mildew out of closets.
2) Air stagnation. Trapped air harbors moisture. Fungi can't live without moisture, so simply keeping the air moving may keep things dry enough to retard their growth. I would still use a dessicant, though. And keep your lenses =out= of the camera bag, it just stagnates the air and traps moisture within. Leave them on a shelf, with caps loosely in place, if at all. Dust is easy to deal with. --
If the wall safe is very large, a cheap $200 room dehumidifier may be the way to go , because it will:
a) heat the air
b) dry the air
c) circulate the air in it's vicinity.

--

Mildew is a fungus.
It is a myth that fungi need total darkness to thrive. True, the ultraviolet rays from the sun are detrimental to them, but they seem to thrive in open shade, even under artificial lighting. Most mushrooms are grown in the dark, simply because they don't really =need= light.
A light bulb may work for another reason; It provides enough heat to keep the relative humidity below 100%, which is what we really need, anyway.
Get some calcium chloride, and don't forget to put it an open container that holds water (or you'll have a mess)!
:-)

P.S.:

Oh, yeah, i forgot to mention that silica gel can be reactivatated in a 300 degree-F oven overnight, but it's hard to tell when it is spent. I opt for Calcium Chloride or Lithium Bromide, whichever is available. --
-John S. Bond kingsnake WA6FRN/6
kingsnake photography; a division of Gyro Gearloose Productions
http://www.humboldt1.com/~gyrgrls/

rec.photo.misc
From: "Kirk R. Darling" kdarling@ix.netcom.com
[1] Re: Suggestions to avoid mildew growth on lenses
Date: Mon Feb 16 1998
A ventilated cabinet with an incandescent light has been used for decades by photographers in the tropics, and I can testify myself that it worked for me in the Philippines. Simple, low tech, zero maintainance, as long as one can afford to keep a 60-watt lamp burning 8-10 hours a day.

[Ed. Note: useful cheap source for silica gel, used to keep camera gear and film dry in storage containers etc.]
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: jc17fl@aol.com (JC17FL)
[1] Re: Silica gel source?
Date: Thu Jan 22 1998
Re: Silica gel source?
Try Wal-Mart - Crafts & Dried Flower dept.
$8.98 for a 2 pound jug with color indicating crystals.
Joseph.

From: Mark Hubbard Subject: Response to lens fungus Date: 1998-03-19 Yes, it does help to leave the lens exposed to direct sunlight for several hours a day over the course of at least several days. Success will depend a lot on where you live; here in the Pacific Northwest and down in Florida, our air is so humid that fungus and molds can be a major problem, especially on leather cases and coverings (as well as lenses). The camera technician I use is in Denver, where the air is dry and the sunlight is strong (high altitude). There, sunning a lens is a good way to kill the fungus without having to take it apart for a complete cleaning. It is always at least worth a try. Remember that fungus will grow on coatings but most especially on pieces of dust. Keeping your lenses clean and exposed to good air circulation (by using them!) are probably the best defenses against fungus. Putting them away in a closet is probably the worst thing you can do, especially stored with leather of any type (such as in a leather case). Here in the northwest, for example, a leather purse put in a closet undisturbed for a few months will grow a thick green coat of mold. It isn't pretty.

From: torx@nwrain.net (peters) [1] Re: Mold in Lens Date: Thu Apr 02 1998 >The lens can be disassembled and cleaned, but this is most definitely NOT a >do-it-yourself job. Multiple element lenses require precise alignment and >spacing, often to tolerances not visible to the eye. For something like this >I'd go with the lens manufacturer's repair service. If a person orders a couple of spanner wrenches from Fargo, and a few rubber "plugs" to remove the front plastic "bezel" from the lens--and if this is only a straight telephoto and not a zoom, it isn't too bad a job. No one would consider me gifted with a set of wrenches, but I've cleaned several Canon FD 50mm lenses which had fungus, and it wasn't too bad a job. And, fortunately, the fungus hadn't noticeably damaged the glass. Took less than an hour. But a zoom with 13 or 14 elements may be a whole 'nother ball game. bob

Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998
From: Tom Resident aquatom@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 20/2.8 fungus
Last year I had my 15mm fixed by Nikon service in Torrance. It took them 6 mos. instead 3-4 as promised. Problem was fungus on front element. The lens has to be shipped to the factory in Japan. Cost $199, which I think is standard for any repair regarding optics. You decide if it's worth the trouble.

From: "David Foy" nomail@this_address.please
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Alcohol as lens & camera cleaner???
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998
Alcohols are probably not harmful, but they are ineffective compared to, for example, dilute solutions of ammonia (Windex). Another tip, originally from repairman-lore and most recently passed along by Ed Romney on his web page, is a 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide (from the drugstore) and household ammonia. It is a very effective remover of the "haze" so often mistaken for fungus, and Ed says it also removes fungus.

From: kirkfry@msn.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: fungus on lenses cureable?
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998
Michael Doan Michael.Doan@amd.com wrote:

> I found what looks to be fungus on the inner elements of one of my > lenses (50mm enlarger lense, Rodenstock). Is this something that can be > cleaned out? What should I ask the repair person to check for? Coating > damage? Will this thing have a high risk of growing back even after > cleaning? > > Thanks for any info, > Michael

If the fungus is in the cement between elements the lens has to be completely disassembled cleaned, reassembled and if it has been there awhile the glass will be etched. Make sure its fungus and not film from darkroom gasses. Look at it with some kind of magnifier (a 50 mm lens from a 35mm Camera works well) and see if it looks like fine hairs growing or just fog. If fog it can easily be cleaned, if fungus, it may be cheaper to buy a new or used lens than try to fix that one. If its not too bad it won't matter for a while. 50 mm enlarging lenses are pretty cheap.

From: "K and J Darling" thedarlings@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups:rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: fungus on lenses cureable?
Date: 17 Jul 1998
You can't repair the coating that the fungus has eaten (at least not within economic reason). You'd have to have a repairer take the lens apart to clean it and reseal it to prevent any further damage. Make sure you store your equipment someplace dry and ventilated and not too warm. An unventilated darkroom in a warm climate might be just the place for fungus--unless you do some enlarging every day so that the light keeps it from growing.

[Ed. note: posted fyi - beware ''cures'' that are worse than disease!]
From: "Richard Davis" DrDagor@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: We have a fungus among us.
Date: 17 Jul 1998
Oh No! Not the FUNGUS!
It takes time to clear up a case of the lens fungus, so you need to decide what your time is worth.
If the fungus has been there a long time (years), it is possible that it has etched some of the coating or even the glass, in which case the lens is excellent for holding down stacks of 5x7 prints.
This topic has come up enough that you should search the DejaNews archive for previous notes.
Here are two ideas.
1. The basic technique is to completely disassemble the lens and to soak the parts in bleach or a commercial fungicide like tilex to remove the fungus. Anyone tried potassium ferricyanide? Some lens contact is needed to remove the fungus, which always means there is risk of damaging the lens or its coatings.
2. Prevention is important. Using air-tight containers, like zip lock freezer bags, and a desiccant (silica gel bags) are good ways to prevent fungus. Porter's camera sells desiccant bags, as do many other suppliers. (Remember the old Nikon plastic screw top plastic cases? They were wonderful.) If you store your lens in a dry, air-tight environment after cleaning it, the fungus should not come back.

From: DavidM dmcs@cyburban.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: We have a fungus among us.
Date: 18 Jul 1998

> Here are two ideas. > > 1. The basic technique is to completely disassemble the lens and to soak > the parts in bleach or a commercial fungicide like tilex to remove the > fungus.

This may clean the lens but will likely lead to further fungus contamination in the future.
Good quality lenses are assembled in 'clean rooms' where the air is micro-filtered. Opening up a lens introduces more fungus spores, which are always in the air all around us.

[Ed. note: Finally, a positive side of fungus ;-)]
From: bobros@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace Subject: Re: fungus on lenses cureable?
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998
Michael Doan wrote:

> I found what looks to be fungus on the inner elements of one of my > lenses (50mm enlarger lense, Rodenstock). Is this something that can be > cleaned out? What should I ask the repair person to check for? Coating > damage? Will this thing have a high risk of growing back even after > cleaning?

Ahhh fungus!! One of my favorite experiences in photo buying and selling was getting a box of 75 brand new, boxed tele, w.a. and zoom SLR lenses for 50 bucks (!) because they happened to have nasty internal fungus.
The fungus resembled spider webs and cleaned out very easily with lens cleaner & tissue once I disassembled the lens elements with my trusty spanner wrench. If yours is similar, the cure should be easy.
But there are other, nastier strains of fungus which do attack coatings and maybe even the lens cement itself, but I'm sure any competent repair guy would be able to hold the lens up to a light and tell you in a second exactly which type you have.

From: colyn.goodson@airmail.net (Colyn Goodson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: fungus on lenses cureable?
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998
Fungus can be cleaned but if it has damaged the coating, you will have to have it recoated to repair.. If the damage to the coating is slight, you should not notice any effect... Fungus can grow back if you don't store the lens properly...

From: NO_SPAM~pszilard@au1.ibm.com (Paul Szilard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Fungus Removal
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998
Stick it in direct sunlight for many hours. The sun's UV is reputed to kill fungus. As this is such an expensive lens, it may be worth while to contact a Leica repair outlet. They may be able to clean the elements and re-coat them. Hope you have a big cheque book!
Best of luck...
On 3 Aug 1998 15:02:49 GMT, nehandi@aol.com (Nehandi) wrote:

>I have an old screwmount Leitz Elmar lense that has fungus in it, I was curious >if anyone knows a technique of removing the fungus without damaging the soft >coating on the inside of the lense elements. Thanks for your help.

[Editor's Note: I have not seen or heard this treatment recommended elsewhere, so I can't vouch for its safety or utility, but here it is for your information...]
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998
From: ""Sandy Barrie"" Sandy_Barrie@bigpond.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Fungus Removal
The Best thing to remove any Fungus is
THYMOL (crystal form)
Put the Thymol Crystals in a Porcalin Dish, in a Box, with the Item to be defungused... It is best if the Box is Airtight... as Thymol is very dangerious to Humans (treats us a large pieces of Fungus)
Leave for a few days, or a week.... Fungus Killed..... dont forget to Air the item afterwards.
Works well for Albums, Prints, old negs and Slides...
Just Remember it is Dangerious.
You can get Thymol Crystals from most scientific chemial supply co.
Sandy Barrie.
Hon. Life Member, AIPP.
Valuer of Photography,
Appointed to the Federal Department of the Arts.
Researching Early Photographers.
PO. Box A488, Sydney South, NSW, 2000. Australia.
E-Mail Sandy_Barrie@bigpond.com
fax. (02) 9261-8427

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998
From: tired.of.spam@nospam.com (Rudy Garcia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Moldy lens
Mark.Orton@pulse.com (Mark Orton) wrote:

> I recently got out my old camera, which I haven't used for several years, and > made a rather startling discovery. I have a zoom lens, and there's a blob of > stuff stuck on one of the interior lenses. It looks like some kind of mold. > > I'm wondering what to do about this. Is this something a camera repair shop > could take care of easily? Or is it time to start shopping for a new lens? > > And is there anything I should do to prevent the same thing from happening > again? > > -Mark-

[Ed. note: last resort, caveat emptor/buyer beware, desperation... ;-)]
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999
From: Ellis Feldman ellis.feldman@usa.net
Subject: [Rollei] fingerprints on lens
I have hesitated to state my own experience with lens surface problems because of the radical treatment i had success with.
I had a fungus deposits on the inner lens surface of a retina. The lens surface would not clean with all the ususal techniques.
Windex, water, alcohol, etc was to no avail. Finally i assumed the lens was pitted. I used a high powered loupe and whatever it was had organic patterns from pit to pit. Or was it pits . I do not know.
I could run my fingernail over the surface of the lens and feel vibrations from pits or ridges or whatever.
Frankly i was bewildered, but then knew why i picked up the retina so cheaply.
Finally I sprayed the surface with the product, "Fantastic" waited a few seconds, used an optical tissue and the spots were gone.
Then I took the element and washed it for a minutes in cold running water and dried. The running water was to wash away all vestiges of the Fantastic. The camera lens opening I sat in the sunlight for an entire day.
It is myunderstanding that ultra-viilet light kills fungus.
The treatment I used while successful obviously I cannot recommend.
I wonder if those etched fingerprints are just fungus that fed onn the fingerprint whorls and left there own little selves where the fingerprint oil was..
Please, please, i cannot in good faith recommend such treatment but only as a last resort. And please do not use to much Fantastic It should only be used as a last resort before you put the camera on a junkpile. But be careful with fungus infected cameras. It can be a true horror and introduce a plague into your work shop.
Fortunately i live in a fairly somewhat dry climate--at least part of the year.
Good luck but be prepared for the Fantastic to administer," the coup de gra to the lens." I hope I can sleep tonight after having suggested such brutality to a lens.
Respectfully,
ellis feldman

From Nikon Manual Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999
From: JMernyk@aol.com
Subject: RE: how do you prevent mold?
Hi, I also have wondered this for years and other than the obvious have found that a negative ion generator (also known as ionizer) is the only sure fire way to prevent mold. You can find small ones suitable for a photo gear closet at many places. The negative ions will destroy airborne bacteria, mold and just about any living thing in the air. Combined with a dehumidifier you can set up an area where you will never have to worry about our goodies losing the edge! BTW, tested in a 90% humidity area for many years.
Jon Mernyk
Mill Creek Audio

Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999
From: kahhengNOSPAMDIET@pacific.net.sg (Tan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Fungus on lenses
not that I am a microbiologist, but living in a tropical country does heighten one sensibilities with regards to this matter a little more......

>From what I have experienced, it really is a combination of Humidity Temperature Lack of light (some kinds of light anyway)

I should think, being living organisms, fungi has to be present in the lens or can somehow get into your lens in the first place.
You basically have to bring down the storage humidity to 45-50% (good rule of thumb)
A pro I know puts all his equipment in a big safe bolted to the floor. He uses one of those dehumidifying rods called DamppChasers. He turns the rods on for a few hours a day. Well, it seems to work for him so far and he's been in business for like 15 years.
The more sensible way of storing lenses in humid environments is to use a dehumidying cabinet, where there is some electronic dehumidifier built in. These are very cheap to run. I am quite sure you can get these things in the US as well if you look hard enough. These are fairly cheap - two or three hundred bucks for a sizeable one (one that you can store three 'blads, 4 lenses, some backs and other accessories). If you are keen to buy the electronic unit on its own, I have seen them going for $500. you have to install these things into a fairly airtight cabinet (think of a fridge) yourself, and they are generally capable of drying the air in a rather large cabinet..
If you only have a few lenses you want stored, you might just want to buy an airtight container from the supermarket and chuck in some sillica gel. This method would however be bad for cameras that have leather coverings and so on. This is the cheapest solution that I know of. You can recycle all the sillica gel once they turn pink by cooking the water out of them.
A last method is similar to the DamppChaser solution. Use a LOW wattage light bulb (7W - 15W depending on the size of your cabinet) placed at the bottom of a reasonably tight cabinet (you still would want some small air gaps where the cabinet door and the cabinet box contacts). Don't place your equipment next to the bulb as it may get too hot. Place them on the upper shelves. What you want to do is to raise the internal temperature just a few degrees higher than the outside temperature. Get an electronic hygrometer (humidity meter) and place it inside so that you know quite accurately what the humidity is - the electronic ones tend to be more consistently accurate then the mechanical ones that I have seen here, but they should all be recalibrated from time to time. Good to place it on your upper most shelf. The military here stores a lot its pricey optical devices this way and they have never had complains about fungus. This is a good trick to keep your clothes closet free of mildew as well. And then it gives you some lighting too. Oh, if the inside gets too dry, you might set it on some kind of timer so that the bulb is turned on only a few hours a day. The idea is to keep things within the desired humidity range.
I have stored some bulky things in a mid sized cardboard box using the lightbulb trick (I use a low wattage compact fluoro bulb) - turning it on a few hours a day, and things have looked fine after a year. I can maintain humidity within 45 to 50 percent. Mind you, this is a paper box. Not too shabby for a cheapo solution I'd say.
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Greg cybotNOcySPAM@bigpond.com typed:

>What is the cause of fungal growth on lense elements - >absence of light? humidity? changing climate? What is the >best way to store lenses when not in use to prevent this >expensive problem?

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000
From: "Mac Breck" macbreck@timesnet.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: How to store photo equipment?
I keep all my stuff in Lowepro bags in a cool dry place, with about 6 or so bags of desiccant in each bag. All lenses (except my 300 f/2.8 are stored vertically, so oil does not get on the diaphragm blades; a problem for 55 f/2.8 AIS Micro Nikkors). Never had a problem with fungus.
I did have a problem with the leatherette snouts of my Nikon FM cases peeling. I never used them, and had them in an upstairs room where it gets really hot in the summer. After 20 years, I went to give them to a buddy who was buying one of my Nikon FM2's, and the snouts looked like Hell. I keep the case backs on the bodies all the time (except then they're on a tripod) to protect/keep my hands off the bodies, and give me a better grip on the bodies.
Light seals/mirror foam goes bad after 25 years or so. Just get them replaced when they go bad. I accidentally tore the mirror foam in my 1978 FM recently, and had the foam replaced. I was using a tiny paint brush to get a couple stubborn specs of dust off the bottom of the focusing screen, and got the brush caught on the foam. It must have been going bad to have torn so easily.
Mac
"Jim" jsheil@exis.net wrote

> As it turns out, I'm getting quite a collection of cameras and lenses. > Some of the gear gets used quite often and others...well lets just say > that they don't get out of the closet much. Having seen how some > equipment deteriorates if left in a closet and not used (ie. lenses > develop fungus, light seals fall apart, etc) I was wondering how some > of you store your gear when you know it won't get used for awhile. > > I'd really like to protect my investment and keep my gear in top > shape.

Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000
From: "Tim Merrick" tim@cotswoldgrove.free-online.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Identifying fungus
Hi,
If a lens has fungus what does it appear like, both at an early stage and advanced state.
I recently bought a black 55mm Mamiya lens for a C330 and it has very, very fine filaments of something on some of the area of the internal element, it almost appears like fluff fibres on the surface of the glass and is so fine it is extremely difficult to see. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Tim

[ed. note: separating a fungus infected lens out and putting it in a zip lock bag with silica gel dryer may help arrest spread of fungus not just in that lens, but in the rest of your collection?...]
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000
From: "Londo" tjapung@yahoo.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Identifying fungus
Fungus is like AIDS for lens. They are usable for a while, if you wipe them, but they get worse and worse and, indeed, they tend to affect other lens, probably through spores. If you have an infected lens, keep it apart from the other gear and get it serviced (autoclave process). Or put it in the bin (and explain to your wife why you spent all that good money a few weeks earlier).

Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000
From: "David Foy" nomail@thisaddress.please
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Identifying fungus
Bob M's Medium Format pages have a good overall discussion on fungus, which is not a subject on which there is a lot of agreement. Here's a starting point: http://medfmt.8k.com/bronfaults.html
Others in this thread have noted that wiping is temporary. I have tried, and succeeded, with soaking the glass (not the metal!) in baths of a hydrogen peroxide-household ammonia mixture. Mix just before use, 50/50. This solution is from Ed Romney and is not original with me. I also had good luck with household vinegar. Some claim success with high-intensity UV, a sunlamp I suppose. I dont' have a sunlamp so haven't tried it.
--

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999
From: "toby" kymartoNOSPAM@gol.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Fungus?
Fungus has a very clear branch-like structure, so this is most probably something else. If the lens was stored in a very hot place it is possible that some of the lubricant atomized and was laid down on surface of one of the elements. I have seen this a number of times, and had to return a Nikkor 8mm f2.8 fisheye with this problem because Nikon said it couldn't be cleaned! In usual cases the lens has to be disassembled and cleaned. this could easily run you more than the price of the lens. If it is very minor the effect will be negligible, but this type of problem will reduce contrast in your pictures. If I were you I would bring this to the attention of the seller and ask to have it cleaned.
Toby

From: "David Foy" david.foy@visto.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Identifying fungus
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000
Romney actually recommends the ammonia-peroxide mixture for haze, which he says most people think is fungus. I've used it on what I believe are atmospheric deposits (tobacco, etc). I'm not sure he distinguishes between haze and fungus, and I don't feel like going to his web site to look right now. I believe you are, as so often, right about this. The ammonia-peroxide mixture is in essence a good glass cleaner, rather than a fungicide.
"AuctionFan" auctionfan@aol.com wrote in message

> >From: "David Foy" nomail@thisaddress.please > > >I have tried, and > >succeeded, with soaking the glass (not the metal!) in baths of a hydrogen > >peroxide-household ammonia mixture. Mix just before use, 50/50. This > >solution is from Ed Romney and is not original with me. > >I also had good luck > >with household vinegar. Some claim success with high-intensity UV, a sunlamp > >I suppose. I dont' have a sunlamp so haven't tried it. > > You have to remember that fungus are very much like plants. Eliminate moisture > and they don't survive. > > Apart from that, I would consider the ammonia in the solution you mentioned to > be more beneficial to fungus than harmful. If anything, i believe it is the > hydrogen peroxide which is most responsible for killing the fungus. > > I am surprised to not see a favorite fungus killing formula among painters and > gardeners: Mix 1 gallon water with 1 pint Clorox and 2 oz. liquid detergent. > This kills fungus and removes it from walls and other areas. I haven't tried > it on lenses. I usually just wipe them clean and the fungus does not return. > > AF.

From: "Michael L. Pipkin, M.D." mlpipkin@flash.net
Newsgroups: sci.astro.amateur
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000
Subject: Re: Fungus...
I don't recall seeing this topic in the astro newsgroup but it is a frequent question in the photography newsgroups. Cleaning mirrors is a delicate business even when just dealing with dust and atmospheric crud.
If your scope is like the 102mm Meade I used to have, the front cell unscrews and you can clean both surfaces of the corrector plate. I would use 91% isopropyl alcohol (not "rubbing" alcohol, which has lanolin in it). If the corrector is coated (I think all versions of this scope are at least single coated) the fungi may have damaged the coating and nothing can be done for that. Fungi eventually etch the glass itself.
The rear cell unscrews also but I don't know how to safely clean an SCT mirror (a Newtonian mirror can be removed and flushed with mild soap, then alcohol). Don't touch a first surface mirror with ANYTHING; a few spots won't degrade it much optically but trying to polish it will produce fine scratches that will seriously damage it. Likewise, don't touch the secondary mirror.
Finally, some photographers have reported that direct sunlight will kill fungi and they just point a lens into the sun briefly (no camera body mounted). I would be reluctant to do this with an SCT because of the concentration of heat on the secondary mirror. You could expose the individual components to sunlight, which should be safe.
Michael
mpoli@my-deja.com wrote

>Hello Astrolovers, > > > I am in deep need of a piece of advice... I was given a 102mm >Meade Schmidt-Cassegrain Reflector, which primary use was terrestrial >observation. As the telescope was (and still is) in a tropical area, >and was kept closed in the case without any Silica or similar chemical, >I have spotted some small fungus infiltration points in the lenses, >and in the primary mirror. > > What question is: What should I do? > Is it better just to keep the scope from now on in a dry place, >let the fungus die and live with the remains in the lenses and mirror? > Or is there some way I can try to expel them? > Is the process they use to remove fungus from camera lenses safe >for scopes? > Any other ideas?

From: Kirk kirkdarlingnotathome@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Lens fungus probability
djo@teleport.com says...

> I moved from a very dry climate (Salt Lake City, Utah) to a humid one > (Portland, Oregon). I have some lenses that are expensive enough that > I hope not to have to replace them. What is the likelihood of > developing lens fungus in a climate that hovers around 45% to 55% > humidity (indoors)? And what can I do to reduce that risk? > > I've tried those silica crystal packs inside my camera bag, but they > change from blue to pink in about a day, so I doubt their long-term > effectiveness.

That's not humid. Humid is 90 percent or more for weeks running. Humid is when you get mildew on your living room walls that looks like mildew in the shower. Southeast Asia during monsoon seasons, or even Florida can be like that.
If you don't keep your cameras at the bottom of your dirty clothes hamper or in your bathroom, you shouldn't have any problem at all. When I was in Hawaii (for several years) I took no precautions at all. When I was in the Philippines, I did, to some extent, during monsoon season.
But generally, if you're taking your cameras out frequently and shooting with them, mildew is not a problem. Mildew hates the sun, and it doesn't take but small, fairly frequent doses of sunlight to keep mildew at bay.
If you're really worried, the easiest method is to put it in a cabinet with a low-wattage incandescent bulb. The light and heat will keep things dried out. But you shouldn't have to worry anywhere in the continental US except some places on the Gulf Coast.

From: "Ricardo Benites" ricardo.benites@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Silica Gel
In fact you could do like I did and ask the manager of a shoe store if he/she would save the little packets for you.
I have so much now that I give it out to members of my camera club at the meetings.
Rick

From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000
From: "Bob Walkden" bobwalkden@hotmail.com
Subject: [Leica] Fungus in viewfinder
Hi,
I'm surveying the market before buying my first M camera+lens. In a store today I saw a pretty good M4 at a very good price. The problem with the camera is that there is fungus in the viewfinder - makes rather a nice delicate in-built landscape of winter trees round the edges of the focusing rectangle.
In general is this fixable, and at what sort of price in USD or GBP?
Thanks,
Bob

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000
From: "Dr. Ulrik Neupert" neupert@int.fhg.de
Subject: Re: Hasselblad in the Tropes
Moin,
I used my Hasselblad 500 cm in the Rainforest of Ecuador for one week without caring for humidity and it gave no problems. I tried to store the films as cool and dry as possible. You may want to store your camera in a container with silica gel to prevent the growth of fungus if you spend more time in such a climate. Some insect propellants are agressive chemicals that can attac the surface of your camera, pay attention to that. Regarding the flat light, you may wish to use fill-in flash sometimes and a film with very saturated colours could be useful. Filters shouldn't make much of a difference (?), I just use them to protect the front elements.
Regards,
Ulrik
...

From hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000
From: InfinityDT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hasselblad in the Tropes
mludwig@pironet.com writes:
Hi,
I am planning to go to Sri Lanka soon. Hot and humid. Any recommendations on using my Hasselblad down there?
One more question: Down there the sky is often covered leading to a very flat light. What do you recommend as filters under these circumstances?
Thanks and regards,
Marc

Really depends on how long you're going to be there for and where you'll be staying. If you're staying in A/C facilities, everything will get the chance to dehumidify overnight, but be careful not to take ice-cold cameras and lenses out into the heat and humidity as you'll have moisture condensing everywhere, inside and out. Put them in the sunlight or under a lamp or hairdryer (on low!) first. You'd really have to be in the high humidity (like in a jungle or rainforest) for several months to have any detrimental affect such as fungus growth. Walking around in a generally humid atmosphere but where the equipment gets air circulation and is exposed to some UV light, there's really not much to worry about, especially since you don't have electronics inside. The use of rechargeable silica gel is a waste unless you buy the large metal cannisters and have continual access to an oven to recharge them. Those little packets and small tins soak their fill in minutes to hours depending on the humidity. If you're there for a long time, and not staying in A/C, some type of drybox, like a large Coleman cooler or huge Tupperware box, with a dessicant inside, is a good idea.

From hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000
From: Peter Klosky Peter.Klosky@trw.com
Subject: Re: Hasselblad in the Tropes
This has been discussed here before, and your comment is right on target. Film should not be kept in a cooler in the minutes before use, but should be allowed to come up to temperature over a period of perhaps six hours before being loaded. Even carrying your cameras in a car which is very cold with A/C will yield trouble if you try to pop out of the car and use the camera right away. Eyeglasses wearers who walk in cold climates know this well; we have to heat up our glasses before they will work indoors. What I do when I travel by car is keep the camera in a warm part of the car, such as the rear of the car.
Be careful not to take ice-cold cameras and lenses out into the heat and humidity as you'll have moisture condensing everywhere, inside and out.

From: "Rod" blueshift@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: sci.astro.amateur
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000
Subject: Re: where to get desicants - another question
Kenn,
The Activa, 'Flower Drying Art', flower drying gel I picked up at the hobby store has an indicator in it that turns from blue to pink when exhausted. It just dawned on me that I see a large-crystal version of silica-gel every time I go into the microwave equipment room at work. The microwave transmission feedlines at the facility where I work, are kept pressurized with air passed through a large cylinder of silica-gel. The crystals are blue and change color when exhausted--this stuff would certainly be easier to package than the fine flower drying beads. I know the stuff is purchased in bulk, because I've seen them refill the container on occasion. It must come from one of the large tower manufacturers like Rohn, I'll check and report back next week.
Rod
Kenn Lynch wrote

>Been toying with this myself for a while for the inside of a CCD >camera. > >Instead of the coffee filter I have been contemplating using the >hepa grade disposable paper face masks available "free" in most >hospitals now a days. Seems like maximum porosity with a guaranteed >filtration rate and possibly some additional durability. > >But then again maybe a hepa grade is actually less than the standard >coffee filter at that? Anyone have any idea > > >I've yet to locate a local bulk source of the indicating variety >(cobalt cloride) but you can usually get plenty of the small pouches >of the "vanilla" variety from any shoe store. > >These all do shed dust as they age though, it might be good idea to >throw a bit of masking tape in the pouch to catch some of the loose >dust. > >Kenn Lynch > > > >On Fri, 11 Aug 2000, TP ONeill oneilfam@swbell.net >wrote: > >>I looked at some of the 'Flower Drying' crystals. They seemed >>extremely fine. How would you "package" it to make sure the >>stuff doesn't leak out, and yet be able to absorb the moisture? >> >>I thought about using paper coffee filters. >> >>Somone else suggested nylon stocking. Will this be sufficient? >> >>Awhile back someone said a 35mm photo film canister fits in the >>eyepiece end of a refractor nicely. A few holes in the bottom >>allows the silicon to keep the inside of the refractor dry. >> >>Comments please. >> >>> I got some silica gel at a Hobby Lobby store, and at one time Wal Mart also >>> carried some. Look for a store that sells craft supplies and ask for the >>> flower drying 'stuff'. The brand I got is a 1 1/2 pound container of silica >>> gel packaged by Activa Products, Inc, and is called 'Flower Drying Art'. 1 >>> 1/2 pounds is enough to last a lifetime. >

From: hermperez@worldnet.att.net (Herm)
Newsgroups: sci.astro.amateur
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000
Subject: Re: where to get desicants - another question
this the source of industrial dessicants:
http://www.hammond.thomasregister.com/olc/hammond/hamlab.htm
Herm

From: Kruger Kid bubbabu@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: sci.astro.amateur
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000
Subject: Re: where to get desicants
http://www.desiccare.com/

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: R. Saylor rlsaylor@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy Silica Gel?
bkung@mail.utexas.edu (Bryan K.) wrote:

>I keep stuff dry, I should buy silica gel right? Where can I get this >stuff, and how often do I need to replace it?

You can get it in arts & crafts stores. It is used for drying flowers. It doesn't ever need to be replaced, merely reactivated by drying in a 250 degree oven.
Richard

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: "eMeL" badbatz99@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy Silica Gel?
As it has already been suggested - stuff for drying flowers at the arts and crafts store. My 2 cents is to go to an 'arts and crafts supermarket' (such as Michael's) because the stuff there is much cheaper than in many small/more refined arts and crafts stores.
Michaels
...

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: Robert Kirkpatrick bob.kirkpatrick@heapg.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy Silica Gel?
Go to http://www.actiongear.com/
Do a search for silica gel. These include an indicator. You don't replace it, you reactivate it with your kitchen oven. Directions are on the package.
"Bryan K." wrote:

> I keep stuff dry, I should buy silica gel right? Where can I get this > stuff, and how often do I need to replace it?

Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: "Joe" joeamp@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy Silica Gel?
http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?bid=OE&cid;=39&sid;=new&crid;=1116482

sci.astro.amateur
From: "Rod" blueshift@worldnet.att.net
[1] Re: Desicant
Date: Tue Oct 24 22:47:05 CDT 2000
Eric,
Try this place. http://www.desiccare.com/homeprod.htm
Rod

sci.astro.amateur
From: Kruger Kid bubbabu@hotmail.com
[1] Re: Desicant
Date: Wed Oct 25 00:32:03 CDT 2000
Hydorsorbent Products (The white stuff, packaged in a container with a indicating card.)
http://www.dehumidify.com
Just litter - Yes, this is Silica gel cat litter (The clear stuff)
http://www.justlitter.com/
McMaster-Carr (Bulk, white, indicating blue and assorted canisters)
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Eric Sinn wrote:

> Does anyone know where I can get some desicant to help keep the scope dry > during storage? The color changing type would be preferable for me.

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000
From: doregan@attglobal.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy Silica Gel?
I get mine at an arts & crafts store, A.C. Moore. I think it was something like $6.00 for about two pounds of the stuff. I make my own packs out of high quality paper towels. Keep packs with all my equipment.
Dennis

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Fungus question re: Rollei 2.8F
you wrote:

>Richard, > >Is it possible to get fungus on shutter surfaces? I was always under the >assumption that fungus needed organic material to live, ie: the resin used >to bond lenses, but a metal shutter?

Fungus lives on all sorts of things. It can feed on material in the air or on oil residues or paint residues. The fact is that it can thrive on glass surfaces and etch them. Fungus can be found in the cement of cemented lenses but is also found on the surfaces exposed to the air, it does not need a culture medium to grow.
Fungus growth is encouraged by high humidity conditions. One way to get rid of it is to dessicate the fungus infested object so that the fungus goes into an inactive state. It can then be brushed or blown off and the surfaces cleaned.
Unfortunately, real fungicides are hard to find and are all very toxic to humans. Ammonia or bleach is only modestly effective, as anyone who has dealt with fungus growth in a shower knows.
The spores are microscopic so can hide in many places and stay viable for years.
There is a fair amount of material on fungus on the _Conservation On Line_ site at http://palimpsest.stanford.edu
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com

From Nikon MF Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000
From: "Mel Hughes" mellh@bellsouth.net
Subject: Fungus in a 105
Rich,
I have an AF 105 which had fungus growing in the rear element due to my ignorance about storing lenses in humid climates. I finally had to send it back to Nikon (NYC) where they dismantled the lens, cleaned all the other elements, and replaced the rear element. The particular crop of fungus I grew in the lens was just as William Sampson said earlier, the crystalline structures had deeply etched the interior surface of the rear element. From the rear of the lens, looking into a bright light, the fungus looked like ice crystal. I think they charged about $100 to do the rebuild with a new element but that was at least five years ago. I was not particularly pleased with their work. Since the overhaul, the lens has always felt rough to focus, as if small bearings are missing or misaligned. Also, I have had continuing difficulties with the CPU in the lens communicating with F4, N90s, and D-1 bodies. It works fine for Manual Focusing but sometimes lacks the ability to communicate F stop information to the camera bodies. Gremlins...
Depending on the shape of your lens, you may do better financially replacing it and using it for experimentation.
Mel Hughes

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001
From: Richard Urmonas rurmonas@senet.com.au
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Forget politics, need ansd help with glass plates!

> Amd what about mildew? I also inherited a Goerz Anschutz that looks to be > OK (if I can figure out how to work the FP shutter) but the leather case it > came in is mildewed, and I would like to kill the fungus and save the case. > Any help with that would be appreciated.

I have had some success with Eucalyptus oil. You want a pure oil (often it is sold diluted). The best is the type which is made from mature tree trimming, but in USA you probably wont get a choice. Give the case a good coat of the oil. It should not harm the leather (as it is an oil) but it will dissolve many glues so careful around any felt linings etc. I then leave it for a day or so then give it another coating. Leave another day or so. If it has been successful the fungus should now wash off with a good quality saddle soap. Finally apply some leather conditioner. Eucalyptus oil is reasonably safe to use, just dont get it in any cuts or your eyes, and dont sniff the bottle.
I would offer to send you some but the there are all sorts of funny regulations that apply to posting such things internationally.
Richard
--------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Urmonas
rurmonas@ieee.org

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001
From: Marc James Small msmall@roanoke.infi.net
Reply to: hasselblad@kelvin.net
Subject: New Zeiss Fungus Treatment
Forwarded from the Binocular List:
_________________________________
There is a new fungus treatment available from Zeiss Oberkochen. I have no further ordering information.
Fungus Cleaning Agent "Fungusreiniger NEU"
Germicidal effect, not effective in cleaning. Dilute the agent with ethyl alchohol, apply with cotton swab, allow it to act for one hour or more, clean the surface using normal cleaning solution. Not poisonous but keep away from food & avoid contact with skin. Can be ordered from Carl Zeiss Oberkochen, dept. KuDi.
100ml bottle, INR 0117.362
500ml bottle, INR 0117.361
1000ml bottle, INR 0117.360
___________________________________
Marc
msmall@roanoke.infi.net

From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000
From: "Mel Hughes" mellh@bellsouth.net
Subject: Fungus/Storage
After I discovered the fungus in my AF 105mm f/2.8 Micro as well as in an AF 50mm f/1.8 lens, I sent the 105 in for service. The expense to repair the 50mm would have far exceeded its value. I also wrote a letter to Nikon asking why this had happened to two AF lenses but not to a small group of MF lenses stored in the same manner. They tactfully replied that mold and fungus spores are literally everywhere. They suggested a controlled environment for storing lenses when not in use. This environment should have low humidity. They went on to add a disclaimer to my lens overhaul. It seems that once a lens is exposed to fungus, once the spores have been able to invade the interior of a lens, that even replacing elements in the relatively controlled environment of their workshops was no guarantee that the fungus wouldn't strike again.
That was the extent of the suggestions Nikon was willing to make. I started researching to see if I could find a way to store my unused cameras, lenses and accessories in such a way that they were reasonably protected but not inaccessible. Several years ago, this same discussion was hashed over on the "Big" Nikon list as well.
I pared this information down to a system that is only slightly uncomfortable to use. For equipment I am not carrying with me, I store each lens (with caps on,) filters, or camera body in a Ziplock freezer bag with a rechargeable container of silica gel. The air in the bag squeezed out, the bag sealed, then placed within another freezer bag. These bags are laid into a larger, heavy plastic container (usually Rubbermaid or Tupperware) with another, larger rechargeable container of silica gel. When full, the container is sealed. One day, I am going to replace all these smaller boxes with a large, Penguin equipment box.
Equipment I carry daily lives in my small Domke shoulder bag. Lenses not mounted on camera bodies are stored in the two freezer bag/silica gel manner unless I am actively shooting. Then, all equipment is taken out of the bags and placed in the camera bag for quick access. After use, unmounted lenses go back into the bags.
About once a month, I open each bag and container and bake the silica gel overnight at about 300 degrees F in the oven. I have a few containers that are nothing more than old glass salt shakers filled with silica gel. These non-metallic containers can be put in the microwave for increments of 30 seconds until the silica gel turns from pink to dark blue, indicating the moisture has been removed. After a 20 -30 minute cool-down, they are ready to use again.
I found the majority of the silica containers I use at Light Impressions and L.L. Rue( http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com http://www.rue.com ,) although there are many other sources on the web. Although it is a bit tedious, I have had no further fungal incidents. This living in a house that has no central air conditioning in the Southeastern United States. Summers here are very humid.
Other suggestions:
Never store any photographic equipment in a leather case unless it lives in an air-conditioned, humidity controlled environment. And then, only if you bought it new. Leather seems to be a prime breeding ground for all types of nasties.
Periodically examine your equipment. Not just look at it. Look closely. Examine lens interiors in a bright light. Look carefully at focusing screens and mirrors. Look at your filters in direct and angled light, examining their surface. If things are kept clean and relatively dry, you will probably have no problems.
There are many other ways to keep equipment dry and clean. Some folks have built or adapted small cabinets with nothing more than a low wattage light bulb running constantly to keep the humidity down. Lenses and such are stored on shelves over the light. If you think you might have a problem, do a little research on the web and you will probably find a pretty simple solution.
Since adopting the desiccant and bag storage, I have had no further incidents with fungus. So, even with the continued maintenance, all the materials I used have cost considerably less than the cleaning or replacing of one Nikkor 105 Micro. Also, I keep in contact with the things I have. Inventory is much easier. Putting my hands on that filter I need is much faster.
Mel Hughes
Chattanooga, TN
mailto:mellh@bellsouth.net

From MF Nikon Mailing LIst:
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001
From: wdshpbiz@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fungus
Mark,
Hold the lens up to the light and look inside it. Fungus usually appears and spidery, string-like deposits on an inside lens surface. In extreme cases it may cover the entire surface of a lens element. I have an old Nikkor 35/2.8 like that. I bought it for next to nothing because of the fungus and intended to try cleaning it myself. Unfortunately, the front retaining ring is very stubborn, and I haven't been able to get behind the front element to do the cleaning. I've shot with the lens anyway. The photos are definitely a bit soft compared to the 35/2.0 I have. For cleaning recipes, check the archives at the NikonRepair list.
William Sampson
http://hometown.aol.com/wdshpbiz/AImod.html

From Nikon MF Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001
From: Nikon Cameras NikonCameras@asean-mail.com
Subject: Re: fungus?
For some reason or other, fungus seems to grow well in dark, humid places, without much air circulation. But given these conditions, it grows especially well in leather cases. AVOID storing cameras, lenses, filters, and binoculars in their leather cases. I had some Pentax binoculars and a Yashica twin-lens-reflex in leather cases attacked, along with Tiffen filters stored in a leather Tiffen pouch. I have several Nikon rangefinder cameras. One I put in a fireproof safe (Nikon SP with f/1.4 lens) in the leather case the camera came in. Fortunately, about 3 weeks later I removed the camera from the safe and there was fungus growing all over the leather case, but no damage was done yet to the camera or lens. The case was actually covered inside and out with a white growth and appeared white instead of brown. Ideal storage would probably be in a glass-enclosed curio cabinet with sunshine bathing the equipment to keep dust off and to give fungus no place to grow. Personally, I store them in Tamrac cases except for my Nikonos cameras (stored in a aluminum case in foam) and my Widelux and Yashica, which are stored in a locked closet with plastic lining under and over them, but not surrounding them.
...

From: "jjs" nospam@please.xxx Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format Subject: Re: The care of lenses Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 "Argon3" argon3@aol.com wrote ... > When I was in Japan some years ago, I saw these little humidity control > cabinets for sale in all of the major camera stores. They were about the size > of a mini-fridge and had glass doors, lights and hygrometers/thermometers > mounted on them. I assumed that the humidity in Japan made these cabinets a > necessity for the serious photographer/collector. Haven't seen them for sale > in the US but you might look around...the internet being the handy aid that it > is, you might find them for sale somewhere. Another source of dehumidfiers is gun shops. The dehumidity unit is electric and is part of the high-end gun safes. I have no idea whether they work well or not, but you might check them out.

From: Lassi lassi.hippelainen@welho.organized.. Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: How To Avoid Lens Fungus? Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 Bob Monaghan wrote: > > see http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/fungus.html hth bobm This one is pretty interesting: {quote} rec.photo.misc From: "Kirk R. Darling" kdarling@ix.netcom.com [1] Re: Suggestions to avoid mildew growth on lenses Date: Mon Feb 16 1998 A ventilated cabinet with an incandescent light has been used for decades by photographers in the tropics, and I can testify myself that it worked for me in the Philippines. Simple, low tech, zero maintainance, as long as one can afford to keep a 60-watt lamp burning 8-10 hours a day. {/quote} So the problem isn't absolute humidity (g/m3) but relative humidity (% of saturation). The easiest way to reduce %RH is to warm the air. The amount of absorbed humidity vs. temperature is almost exponential. A 60W lamp is pretty effective in warming a cabinet and lowering %RH. Another thing to avoid is thermal cycling. It will pump air and humidity in and out, and in the process may introduce inside the lens all that dirt that the fungus needs. -- Lassi

From russian camera mailing list: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 From: Peter Wallage peterwallage@btinternet.com Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] OT: Cleaning fungus on filters , hoods , To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@beststuff.com Bob Shell asked: > What's Lysoform? Never heard of it. Lysoform is a trade-name disinfectant containing lysol, which is a solution of isomeric phenols derived from coal or wood tar and quite widely used as a disinfectant either as a liquid or sometimes combined with soap. It's quite powerful and usually used highly diluted. In higher concentrations it's quite poisonous. Peter

From russian camera mailing list: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 From: Antonio Fernando Shalders afshalders@terra.com.br Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] OT: Cleaning fungus on filters , hoods , To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com Nope, Composition is VERY different Lysol is cresol and methil phenol based, mainly bactericide Lysoform is 37% formaldehyde (virucide,fungicide,bactericide) and sodium tripolyphosphate based. That's why it's highly fungicide. It's like comparing bananas to apples, both are fruits, but the flavor if very different

From: "dan" dancytronatyahoo.com Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: How To Avoid Lens Fungus? Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 You can buy silicon dessicant (sp) at wholesale quantities and prices on this website. http://www.desiccare.com/unitpak.htm ...
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