Ball Head Lubrication Tips
Camera Repair articles..
Hasselblad Lubricants Source
How to Replace and Repair Rangefinder Gaskets
by Winfried Buechsenschuetz
Repairing Stuck Canonet GIII Rangefinder Shutters
by E.J. Kowalski [1/2001]
Shutter Cleaning Tips
shutter speed testing ($5)
Related Links:
Building an Auto-Collimator by Mark Overton [7/2001]
Camera Repair FAQ [8/2002]
Camlogix.com - accurate yet inexpensive Digital Shutter Speed Tester [1/20001]
Canada Balsam (encycl. info) [7/2001]
Canonet Restoration Tips [5/2002]
Classic Rangefinder Repair Forum (updated 1/2004)
Contax Parts Source
Ed Romney's Tool and Repair Books
Fargo Enterprises (tools..)
Konica Rangefinder Shutter Repair Adventure by Kar Yan Mak [4/2001]
Kowa 150mm Lens and
55mm Lens Repair Page by Robert Axford
Micro-Tools Online Tool Store
MSC Industrial Supply Corp. (parts, tools..)
National Camera Inventory [8/2001]
Pacific Rim Parts Cameras
Restitching Camera Cases
Rolleiflex TLR How To Clean Pages
Small Parts Corp
SPT Sources of Parts, Repair Manuals.. [9/2002]
Stereo Camera Repairs and Mods Pages [1/2001]
Watchmakers Tools Pages
Yahoo Camera Repair Group [6/2001]
From Rick Oleson's Repair Tech Notes:
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998
From: Dan Post dwpost@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Repair Fun - Part 1
A good source of watch oil, and small tools is right here in good ole
Greensboro, NC
S. LaRose, Inc.
336-621-1936
Toll Free FAX- 1-800-537-4513
email: SLAROSE@worldnet.att.net
and they can be reached at www.slarose.com
They have wonderful catalogues, and if you like clocks, watches, small tools
and neat stuff in general, this is a neat site.
Dan'l
dwpost@msn.com
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:47:07
From: Robert Monaghan rmonagha@post.cis.smu.edu
Subject: ultrasonic cleaner RE: [Rollei] Repair Fun - Part 1
Popular Electronics had a short article on building a cheapy electronic
parts cleaner using a small plastic cup placed on top of a tweeter
speaker, then putting in a very high frequency signal too high to hear.
Used regular stereo amp and simple 555 timer circuit, or a audio signal
generator used to make a tape, then play the memorex tape ;-) When
not in use cleaning, you can switch back to your regular stereo FM
mode.
Anyway, just a caution - don't put your fingers in the fluid while the
current is on to the speaker. Also quite good for annoying those pesky
squirrels in the attic ;-)
just an idea to pass on...
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998
From: Anyone dpayne@pacifier.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: spanner wrench
Joeseph,
Two places that I know of on the net:
Micro tools:
http://www.micro-tools.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/page=tools.html/SID=12877956
Ed Romney Products:
http://www.edromney.com/toolp_e.html
Regards,
Dave
Reply to:
dpayne at pacifier dot com
Joseph O'Neil wrote:
> Does anyone know who or where I can purchase a spanner wrench (belive > that is the correct name). Used for taking retianing rings off the > back of lenses on lensboards & such. > joe > > http://www.multiboard.com/~joneil
From: Brian Ellis beellis@gte.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: spanner wrench
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998
Calumet sells four different spanner wrenches, ranging in price from
about $30 to about $190 (1996 catalog prices). However, they also have,
but apparently don't advertise, a very simple flat metal spanner wrench
for #0 through #3 shutters. When I purchased a lens and was having some
trouble with the retainer ring they sent this simple (and compact) wrench
to me free of charge. If you're a customer, you might ask about it. The
four that they sell look, from the pictures in the catalog, bulkier and
heavier than the one they gave me and so would perhaps be more cumbersome
to carry around in your backpack. Brian
From: Jean-David Beyer jdbeyer@exit109.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: spanner wrench
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998
I have a flat stamped metal spanner wrench for shutter retaining rings. It
works fine for flat metal lens boards (e.g., those for the Calumet CC-400),
but is useless for the recessed area used for wooden lens boards (e.g.,
Deardorff, Wisner, Zone VI). For those, the fancier ones are better.
Jean-David Beyer
Shrewsbury, New Jersey
From: SK Chan q12469@hkimd.cig.mot.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: spanner wrench
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998
Hi there,
There is one called " Lens Mount Wrench" from Toyo, it can be used for
Copal / Compur 1, Compur 0 / Seiko 0, Seiko 1 and Copal 0. That is four
sides of a square. The part number is 4511, should be available through
Toyo dealers.
Good luck.
From: "Frank Filippone" red735i@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: spanner wrench
Date: 19 Jun 1998
This "gadget" was designed by Dick McRill ( or so he told me)
$10 each when I bought mine a year ago
Call him @ 541-688-7739
--
Please do not auto-respond. Please respond to address below.
Frank Filippone
red735i@worldnet.att.net
From: "Jerry Gitomer" jgitomer@erols.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Source of Itty Bitty screws used in lens assemblies
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999
Hi Bob,
A hobby shop that caters to model railroading will have a great
selection
of small screws in metric sizes.
regards
Jerry
Bob Miller wrote
>Hi Folks > > I need a source for the tiny screws used in the assembly of various >Japanese lens such as C mount macro-zoom lens.
From: "Per Nordenberg" per.nordenberg@swipnet.se
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Any FAQs about camera repairs?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999
>hi all! does anyone know of any sites with FAQs about the need for camera >repairs? >Jeff Chung/NY
The CAMERA REPAIR RESOURCE GUIDE (html version) can be found at:
http://www.astro.wellesley.edu/lhawkins/photo/camrep.faq.html
Non html text version at:
http://www.astro.wellesley.edu/lhawkins/photo/camrep.faq
Per Nordenberg
From Nikon Digest List:
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999
From: "James MacDonald" jlmac@worldnet.att.net
Subject: "Parts" and "Accessories" [v04.n314/1] [v04.n315/8]
The last I knew, parts could be ordered direct from Nikon by anyone. At
least, as of a couple of years ago, parts were available from Nikon's
Torrance, CA office. The parts manager there was a Mr. Thomas Etoh.
Full
address: Nikon, Inc., 19601 Hamilton Ave., Torrance, CA 90502; 310
516-7124 (a real person answers
When I last ordered parts, it was sort of a two-step process: (1) Call
--
or better yet, fax -- Nikon parts, ask if such-and-such part is
available;
if so, how much, and what is the correct nomenclature for it/part number,
etc.; then (2) send 'em a letter with payment enclosed, using the exact
nomenclature/part number obtained by telephone. This always obtained the
correct part for me. They wouldn't take credit card orders, as I
recall.
Not sure if this was/is common knowledge or not. I learned of parts
availability from the former parts manager, who now owns an art gallery
(really!) not far from me... but far from Torrance!
Jim
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999
While MIcro-Tools #1054P spanner wrench may do the job,
I personally recommend spending the extra bucks for the
T-132/136 series wrench. The advantage-you can replace
tips for the job at hand,plus grind tips to fit a
special purpose. My handle is some 45 years old now,
and is still a major player in my tool box.
Just my 2>
From KoniOmega Mailing List:
Gave the wrong link! That's the expensive set. No need.
Here, this is what I use:
http://www.micro-tools.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store;_Code=Micro-Tools⪻
oduct_Code=1054&Category;_Code=SPN
From Rollei Mailing List:
You can also make tools to unscrew lens rings by using a piece of wooden
dowell the right diameter and gluing a rubber circle cut from an old
inner tube on one end. The tools used in lens factories look just like
these, but are obviously made from calibrated wood and rubber!
For lifting out lens elements without harm, go to an auto parts store
and buy a valve grinding tool. It is a plastic or metal stick with
two different sizes of rubber suction cups on the ends. Works like
a charm.
Bob
From NikonMF Mailing List:
Most of the old Nikon F and Nikkormat cameras used an open-cell mirror
foam that deteriorates over time. It can turn into a black, gooey mess
that fouls mirrors, focusing screens and viewfinders and is very hard to
clean off. I've used a closed-cell neoprene foam (much like what is
commonly used in mouse pads and wetsuits) successfully in the mirror boxes
on some of the Nikkormats I've repaired. It works fine and does seem to be
quieter than the original foam even in apparently pristine condition.
William Sampson
From rollei mailing list:
I get most of my supplies from Fargo Enterprises (www.fargo-ent.com and
specifically tools and supplies at www.micro-tools.com ). They have lots
of lubes, like Nye Oil (for escapement mechanisms....self timer, etc.) and
other Nye damping lubes that are good for focus mechanisms. For a
degreaser/cleaner they sell a product called Asahiklin AK225, which is a
freon substitute and works pretty well...at about $12/8oz spray can.
Tony Zoccolillo
From Leica Mailing List:
With all this talk about specialized tools for adjusting the rangefinder
on your M6, I thought I'd post my results.
PLEASE READ THIS THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ADJUST YOUR M6,
ESPECIALLY THE CAUTIONS TOWARDS THE END!
After considering using the wrong tool for the job, I went to my local
Sears store to find the right (ish) tool. In the tool section I found
a "precision slotted screwdriver". The one you'll want is clearly
marked on the handle with the model number "Craftsman 41674" and the
size "2.5 x 40". It costs a whopping $1.99 USD.
Buy two, because you might need one, the other, or both depending upon
the current position of the slot in your M6's rangefinder adjustment
screw.
Note the current position of your M6's rangefinder adjustment screw
(the "infinity" adjustment, which is a screw inside of an eccentric
cam inside the lensmount, near the top). This will determine where to
put the bend in the screwdriver, relative to the direction of its
slotted blade. Due to the inaccessability of the adjustment screw,
you might need to modify a couple screwdrivers in order to complete
the adjustment.
Use a couple Vice-Grips or heavy pliers to bend out the blade about 90
degrees (80 or so might suffice). Do this about half an inch from the
tip. The shaft is thin and plyable enough that it shouldn't snap.
I also found the "2 x 40" screwdriver size to be useful, though its
blade is a little smaller so it might end up damaging the screw head.
The screw should be adjusted so that with a lens focused at infinity
shows a very distant object in focus through the rangefinder patch.
I focus on a bright star at night, or on a very distant, contrasty
vertical line (telephone pole, tree limb, etc.) during the day.
Cautions:
1. I've heard that there might be another adjustment for close focus,
somehow tied to the infinity focus adjuster, and that you might need
to do make these two adjustments repeatedly, one after the other,
until you zero in on a good pair of settings. I don't know anything
more about this, and for all I know, I've thrown my M6 out of close
focus. I'll be doing some tests to find out.
2. archive users: search for followups on this article, because
someone might correct me for something that is horribly wrong.
3. Don't put too much pressure on the screwdriver blade in the
direction of the screw's axis, because if it slips, well, that M6 may
be tough on the OUTSIDE but... (cloth shutter, slice, $, ouch).
4. Don't confuse this infinity focus adjustment with the vertical
rangefinder alignment. It will NOT fix a rangefinder that isn't
properly locating one image over the other vertically. I believe that
requires a tool fancier than a $1.99 screwdriver and you should send
it in to Leica to fix. Unless, of course, you can tell me how to do
it myself....!
5. All of this this applies specifically to the M6 "classic" with
serial numbers 242xxxx and 243xxxx. It might work for the M6-TTL as
well, but I don't have one, so I can't say for sure, and be aware that
there might be differences in serial numbers that are far apart from
these.
6. Do all this at your own risk.
Questions:
I have noticed that on one particular body this adjustment doesn't
seem to affect my infinity focus setting, even if I throw the
eccentric cam WAY off. Any ideas?
The cam and the screw move in unison when I adjust the screw via its
slot. I noticed that the cam itself also has some slots. Is the
screw really just a "lock down" screw that should move independantly
of the cam?
- --Andrew
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
I have been in the repair biz for 28 years....while I do enjoy my work
I'll never get rich from it...but it is MY business. I had training by
factory tech's from Konica in 1972. I spent a total of 3 years just
learning the 35mm camera's and short cuts before I was really productive.
Then I branched out to medium format where I now do most of my work. I
still do a fair number of pre AE1 camera's.....YES...stuff built when
rocks were soft......LOL
Unless you can get the broken cameras for little or nothing and you can
still get parts......your not going to make much money. You will need
some test equipment to....I'd guess some where around $5 - 8,000 would
just get you started., may be.
Good luck
Mike
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
If it were as simple as purchasing a couple of books more people would
do it.
What you need is a degree of proficiency high enough to warrant
receiving manufacturer certification for warranty service. Many
customers are referred to repair facilities by dealers. And dealers
generally aren't going to recommend someone who isn't brand-authorized
to do warranty service. Warranty service is a huge part of the repair
business.
Additionally, many manufacturers won't supply schematics and
mechanical diagrams to people who aren't authorized to service the
brand. That means that you will be tinkering blind, whereas a
qualified and certified technician would have the benefit of actually
knowing the manufacturer's design specs.
Who would YOU rather take your camera to: someone who has the benefit
of manufacturer design information, manufacturer endorsement, and who
can do in-warranty service? Or someone who read some books?
But if this is something you want to do, do it. Only do it the right
way. Get proper training. Seek certification. And then seek out
dealers who can recommend you to customers.
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000
....
Residue can be removed using a cotton swab moistened with alcohol. I
solved a zoom creep problem on a Nikon 75-150E by adding a strip of 3M
electrical tape (black stretchy vinyl).
If it's cut a couple millimeters long, you can run it from the lens
mount forward and work it under the edge of the focus/zoom collar with a
toothpick, giving a nice even action.
Residue will be a bigger problem with cheap tapes. Most masking tapes
leave an awful mess on anything. The black electrical tape is invisible.
Scotch Magic Transparent Tape (the frosty stuff) is thinner and gives a
lighter damping action.
Joe
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000
The Rodenstock Lens Wrench fits Copal/Compur/Prontor shutter jam nuts and
lists for $16.00.
......
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000
the Rodenstock wrench fits 0, 1 & 3 shutter sizes. The Toyo one does not
fit 3 size shutter jam nuts.
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000
International Micro-Tools, while they carrier a full spanner wrench set
for $60, also carries individual spanner wrenches for about $15-20. But
you would want to know what kind of bit the wrench should have. The
nice thing about them is that they are adjustable to the width of your
various rings. The set, by the way, has insertable bits for the tip of
the wrench.
Their on-line site is www.micro-tools.com .
Francis A. Miniter
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000
I bought a decent adjustable spanner for retaining rings on eBay for
about $20. I can't recall the guy selling them anymore, but he's out
of Salt Lake and was selling batches of 20 by Dutch auction.
....
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
Loc Tite comes in three types. One is intended to be easily broken, one
can be broken with some force, one is intended to be permanent and sticks
very hard. Most hardware places will have all three grades.
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
I've also found suitable synthetic oil at hobby shops which specialize
in model railroads. The brand sold locally is LaBelle. Their #101 is about
the same stuff as Nye Oil. The requirement is an oil which is light enough
not to cause drag and which does not become gummy with time.
I suspect any vegetable oil will gum up pretty fast (except maybe castor
oil).
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
I have had good experience with synthetic watch oil, which you can get
from any respectable jeweller's supply store.
lucian
From Rollei Mailing List;
I forgot about that. Most larger cities have a jeweler's supply company
of some sort. They sell lots of tools which also work great on cameras,
and watch lubricants are perfect for cameras as well. I used to buy
gallon cans of watch wash and use it to clean leaf shutters in a home
made vibrator. Now you can buy ultrasonic cleaning machines at relatively
reasonable prices which would be good for shutters, diaphragm modules,
etc.
Bob
.....
[Ed. note: Mr. Bob Shell is the editor of Shutterbug, a noted glamour
photographer, and a long-time camera repairperson...]
The best tool for lifting lens elements out of the barrel and putting
them back again comes from the auto parts store. It is a valve grinding
tool, a wood or plastic dowel with different sized small soft rubber
suction cups on each end. An old timer in camera repair showed me this
years ago.
Bob
....
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
No optical bench is necessary. The alignment of the lenses is
established when they are made by grinding the edges concentric and
parallel to the optical axis and to very precise diameters. The mounting
establishes both the centering and spacing, they can not change and there
are no adjustments. Spacing is sometimes done with threaded spacers, they
are ususally locked in place at the factory. Occasionally one finds
drop-in spacers or shims. Their position should be carefully noted when
the lens is disassembled and they should be replaced in the same place and
facing the same way when the lens is put back together. The clearances in
lens mounts are extremely tight, never force a lens element in place. If
it wants to go in cocked turn the mount over and tap it lightly to get the
lens back out again and try again. Optical glass can be very brittle so
forcing can chip a lens.
The front retaining rings of lenses can be removed with a tool made of a
soft rubber washer, like an "O-ring" glued to a tubular tool the right
size. A bottle cap will do. Sometimes a drop of solvent is needed around
the periphery of the threadws to help break loose the paint.
The rubber ring tool is useful even for rings with slots in them, its
less likely to damage the ring than the spanner needed for the ring.
Schneider is fond of locking outer caps with very small screws. Look for
one on the outside of the finder lens.
A valuable lens should probably be sent out for repair but internal
cleaning is not so difficult as it might at first seem.
----
[Ed note: Mr. Shell is a noted repairperson, in addition to being Editor
of Shutterbug...]
In the absence of a collimator, the thing to do is put a ground
glass on the back of the camera and check focus against the
viewing lens at a variety of distances. If focus in both lenses
agrees, then it does not matter that the focus goes slightly
past infinity. Focus should be determined visually, even at
infinity, rather than depending on rack stops.
If the lenses agree and this bothers you, you could have a
repairman set the visual infinity to correspond to the focusing
knob. I would only worry if the two lenses do not agree on
focus.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
Actually a piece of scotch tape carefully pulled across the film guides
can work well too. It's a cheap check when you get a new camera, I have
done this on all the viewfinder and tlr's I have to verify that the
viewing optics agree with the taking optics.
Sheldon
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
This is a light lubricating grease sold in every auto parts house. Its
usually marked "White Grease" because it is white in color. It is
reasonably waterproof. This is not the only lubricant you can use. Light
Moly grease is also good. If you have nothing else white petrolium jelly
will do (Valeline) but is not a very good lubricant.
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
Lubriplate (www.lubriplate.com) makes the stuff you need, to quote from
their description:
"Lubriplate Mo-Lith No. 2: This moly-lithium, multi-purpose, extreme
pressure lubricant is highly water resistant and is for use where a
moly-lithium type lubricant recommended or desired."
I got a tube of it in a motorcycle shop.
....
Craig
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
Just a helpful household hint for someone trying to get at the rear lens
group in a Rollei without butchering the cell.
Regards,
Marv
From Rollei Mailing List;
This isn't just hair splitting. Cross point screws have slots with
a different profile than Philips, and Philips driverd chew them up.
I learned the difference when I studied camera repair, and outfitted
myself with a proper set so I would not damage screws in the process
of removing them.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
Also, no camera I ever saw had Phillips head screws. The screws
are cross point. If you try to use a Phillips driver on them you
will mess them up but good.
Bob
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999
not to disagree, but merely to add someting... "leaf shutters" is correct
-- however, to head off any possible misinterpretations: Shutter leaves
should never have even a hint of oil. The only oiling in a leaf shutter
mechanism is to a very few critical pivot points in the timing mechanism,
and in some cases on some escapement teeth, and as Pam says in precise
quantities using special oils. Some experts state you can lubricate
shutter leaves very lightly with graphite powder, but with zero -- that's
Zero -- liquid oil.
From Rollei Mailing List:
Actually the screws come out easily with a tool made for the purpose.
I had one years ago when still doing repairs, and it was bought from
the Weston distributor. I've never seen the Weston-type screws on
anything else, so they may have been proprietary. You can, of course,
use regular screws when you reassemble the meter and make it easy if
it needs service again.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
Well, my cross point screwdrivers came from Vivitar's parts
department. They sell really good ones made in Japan. The
prices were pretty good last time I checked.
Bob
....
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
John S. Craig offers a reprint of the factory manuals for Compur
shutters. It includes the shutter used in late Rolleis. There is also a
repair guide from National Camera, which is a step by step guide to
cleaning and adjusting. This is also a reprint, I no longer remember who I
got this from but think it was someone who advertized in Shutterbug.
National Camera also published three bookets on repair of Rolleiflexes,
including shutters, again, I've had them for a few years and don't
remember the source.
Cleaning a shutter does not require complete disassembly. Its best if
the retarder gear train is removed but even that is not really necessary.
The best cleaning solvent is 1,1,1, Trichloroethane. This will dissolve
old lubricants but not attack the paint or plastic parts.
The shutter must be removed from the camera for cleaning. That, and
re-installing it are the bulk of the work.
The shutter can be immersed in the solvent and blown out. I think some
repair folks use the type of ultra-sonic cleaners used by watchmakers. I
have not experimented with a vapour degreaser but that seems a
possibility.
The requirement is that no residues be left on anything, particularly on
the shutter or diaphragm blades.
Deckel specified several lubricants for Compur shutters. Before the US
distributor stopped handling them I was told that the current shutters are
meant to run nearly dry.
The main things that need lubing are the main spring, which is lubed
with light moly-kote and the bearings of the retarder and time delay
escapements. They are lubricated with watch oil. Small Parts Inc. sells a
light synthetic oil called Nye-Oil which works well. I have even used
De-Oxit contact cleaner in an emergency, but it tends to gum faster than
the proper synthetic oil.
Oils should be applied very sparingly. The method is to put a drop of
oil on a smooth surface, like a saucer or glass plate and brush it out.
Pick up a little oil on a fine artist's brush and apply it to the bearings
of the retarder. A small amount of oil may be needed on the pallet to make
it run smoothly.
Overall, the less lubricant the better.
The retarder gear chain is a seperate assembly which on most Compur
shutters can be adjusted in postion a little. Its set to make 1/10th
second right. other than that there is no adjustment for speed. The speeds
are calibrated at the factory by adjusting the speed cam. Its best to
leave it alone, when clean, and if the main spring is not too worn, the
speeds should be approximately correct.
Note that these shutters are _not_ precision instruments. If the speeds
other than the top speed are within ten percent you are doing very well.
The top speed is calibrated within +/- twenty percent for Compur shutters.
Note that this is the _effective_ exposure time with the aperture wide
open. The measured speed with a simple speed meter like the Calumet meter,
will indicate about 80% of calibrated speed when its right on.
As I posted before, I don't think the problem with this particular
camera is the shutter but rather the transport-shutter cocking mechanism.
If the stroke setting is marginal, or if the cam is worn, even a slight
displacement of the lens panel may cause this problem; the cocking lever
of the shutter just isn't pushed far enough to lock properly so the
shutter NEVER trips.
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
Dear Folks,
joke aside, I want give some more comments on the screw driver situation:
An interesting website, I just found, is
where you can order the finest Stahlwille tools made of hardest reinforced
German steel.
Stahlwille is one of the finest tool manufacturers in the world and they
deliver tools to the aerospace industry worldwide.
If you fly in an Airbus or in the Spacelab, you can count that both have
been mounted using Stahlwille or Belzer tools. Both make tools in metric
an US sizes.
Belzer is the other fine manufacturer, but unfortunately they don't have
such nice website (www.Bahco.com).
Stahlwille has also lots of finest screw drivers in their online
catalogue.
I never used drivers from them. My personal experience is concerned with
Belzer and Wiha. During last weekend, I had a look on Wiha drivers in a
local Wall-Mart like store and saw the first time the very tiny ones they
also have. I must admit they look pretty well. From my experience with
Philips no. 2 drivers I am sure that Belzer drivers are of the best. They
are definitely made of better steel than those from Wiha. I made a one to
one comparison, an the Wiha driver had much, much more wear and bending
than the Belzer one. If this is also valid for the tiny ones, to be
honest, I don't know, but I do think so.
Andrei: Did you have succes with Belzer in the US?
Greetings
Dirk
From Rollei Mailing List;
hi sean,
it is no big deal to take the lens apart, but you are right, if you need
to reassemble it the focus will be all screwed up without the right tools
and skills. ask harry fleenor if he can do this for you. he is on this
list and probably has read your initial message and knows the problem.
another place to send the lens for being worked on is john van stelten in
colorado. he will repolish and recoat the lens, but the price runs between
125 and 250 for such a complex operation.
about the link, it works, but you have to be patient with geocities.
sometimes they can take 1-2 minutes before their server responds. they get
billions of hits each month. try this link, it may work faster.
http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/6109/clean.htm
cheers,
From Contax Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000
A hole in the shutter???? I wonder how in the world that could have
happened?
If the hole is small you can plug it with a little black acrylic
artist's paint. I use this to plug pinholes in cloth shutters and
camera bellows. It sticks well and stay flexible when dry. The
brand I use is Liquitex, available in art supply stores. Use it
full strength from the tube with a very small brush, and do not
use the shutter for a couple of days after applying it.
Bob
From hasselblad Mailing List:
I got my bottle from my local Home Depot when I lived in Halifax, Canada.
The stuff is made in the US. On the bottle it says Manufactured by W.J.
Ruscoe Co. AKRON 44301. You might also be able to find it in Arts and
Crafts or Hobby Stores. Its probably just a variant of rubber
cement. Hope
this helps.
Rene
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Good morning, Rene:
Micro-tools at www.micro-tools.com carries Pliobond. Micro-tools also
sells
specialized tools for disassembly of the Leica M cameras as well as
leatherette coverings. The company has a nice website with illustrated
catalog.
I am impressed with all of the small tools, etc., that the company stocks.
Give it a try.
Don R.
[Ed. note: the following thread is a good example of how many factors may
relate to even a simple problem, as well as common solutions to
problems..]
This is a problem you can experience with just about any camera if
crud builds up on the pressure plate. You've done all the right tests
to isolate the problem, so you are pretty sure the pressure plate is
at fault.
Marty Forscher, the retired dean of US camera repairmen, recommends
wiping the pressure plate with a film can of water into which a few
drops of Joy diswashing liquic have been added. This will clean off
most types of buildup and leaves behind a thin film of detergent which
acts as an anti-static coating and will not harm the film.
Try this using a clean cotton cloth and rubbing the plate pretty hard.
If this does not solve your problem, then the only solution is to
replace the pressure plate.
Bob
----------
From Rollei Mailing List:
In order to locate the cause of the problem, you could try lightly
brushing the pressure plate with a piece of an old nylon stocking. The
nylon weave will snag on almost microscopic burrs and bumps. I have found
this technique to be quite effective.
Peeking around with a stereo microscope doesn't hurt either.
I'm presuming that these are base side scratches. Are they always in the
same place relative to the film edge? Are they straight line or do they
wander?
I recently had a bout with base scratches and discovered that they were
being caused by almost microscopic (smaller than typical house dust)
particals that had gotten in to the take-up area of the camera. They were
being pulled back onto the pressure plate by the re-winding film. The
clues here were that the location of the scratching was random, roll by
roll, and the scratches did wander some.
Tim Ellestad
.....
From Rollei Mailing List:
I have done some more testing and have some interesting results.
During rewinding the pressure plate is not in contact with the film
(since the film transport has been moved back away from the rollers on the
camera body). This allows the 2 chrome rollers on the film transport to
hold the film away from the pressure plate (when the transport is in the
'SE' single exposure or 'ME' position these rollers are engaged by the
corresponding rollers on the body and the pressure plate holds the film
flat against the camera body).
So how is the film being scratched. I re-examined a test roll of film
(Gold 200) and looked at where the scratching stopped. This position
corresponds to the larger chrome roller on the film canister side of the
pressure plate. Under a magnifying glass I rewound the film. The roller
does NOT move. Or moves only occasionally. I then wound the film by hand
and the roller moves with the film.
The film is being scratched by this paticular roller but only on rewind.
During film advance the roller moves with the film as it should.
I also retried a test roll of Koadchrome. The roller works on advance and
during rewind. This explains why the Kodachrome was not scratched like the
Gold 200. It does not explain why the roller works with Kodachrome but not
Gold 200.
I have had movie film editors where a roller or pulley would not want to
turn scratch film. I have had little luck getting these to spin the way
they should. I guess I could put a glob of axle grease on it (just
kidding).
This does explain the pattern of the scratches where some lines would be
of varing length.
Until I can find a solution I will be rewinding the film in a changing bag
or dark room I guess.
Carter
From Rollei Mailing List:
Hi Roger,
Carter - I followed this thread with interest. It's amazing how you
found the problem of the roller. That would have been the last thing I
would have suspected. While I am not familair with the 3003 rollers I
wonder if it is a long axle going thru the center of the roller or at the
ends.
The roller is a long cylinder with pins on either end that fit into holes
in a bracket. Matching up the markings on the film was the key to finding
this. I had also seen problems with rollers on film editors so I was
somewhat suspious of them.
I would question if it wore out. I would suspect that some particles
got in to the roller or if some corrosion took place. Probably some
pressurized electrical contact cleaner, such as the spray for old tv
tuners would help. The solvent should not harm any on the plastic or other
parts. In summary a good cleaning might do the trick.
It is possible it has some wear on it. Maybe the holes in the mounting
bracket are not perfectly round. Or the pins have worn. I did not think
this back had much use on it but the slight markings on the pressure plate
would indicate otherwise. I think slight corrosion (I think the roller is
stainless steel but the bracket is plain metal) and or dirt may be the
culprit. The contact cleaner is a good idea (I just bought a big can of
'Blue Stuff'). These cleaners apply a thin lubricant as well. I agree a
good cleaning is in order. If that does not do it a trip to Marflex is in
it's future.
Thanks for the advice.
From Rollei Mailing List:
This was one of those "Duh?" moments for me when I read your post.
Of course, now that you mention it, the pressure does not press
against the film during rewind. I had forgotten.
You could try a single drop of light oil on the bearings at each
end of the roller. The type of oil you want is sold in hobby shops
for lubricating model locomotives.
Just remember, a single drop at each end.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
I use watch oilers, which are like calibrated needles with handles.
Each size applies a different sized drop of oil.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
You will need to find a jeweler's supply store. I've had mine
for a long time and I don't even know if the store where I got
them (in Roanoke, Marc) is still there. My set is color coded,
with the handles each a different color and a chart in the
box telling the size drop each color leaves.
Swiss made, naturally!!
Bob
From Contax Mailing List:
The meter in the spotmatic is one of the simplest in any camera and
replaced with minor stripdown, two screws and to solder joints.
Should not be expensive if you find a repairman with the parts. Many
times Spotmatics used to come in to me with dead meters, and the
problem was failure of the solder joints. Resoldering cured those
in a snap. Also, often dead meters are nothing more than a film of
corrosion on the battery contacts. Use an ink eraser to scrub them
up really good and try with a fresh battery. For correct meter
readings you MUST have the proper mercury cell or a Weincell.
Bob
From Contax Mailing List:
This is one of the few places where that "canned air"
stuff is good. Hold the screen very firmly by its tab
and blow both sides off really well with this stuff.
DO NOT, repeat DO NOT blow this stuff inside the mirror
chamber, as it can damage your shutter if it comes out
with too much force.
The best version I have seen comes from Hama and just
uses air. You pump it up prior to use with a little handle
and plunger. Never needs refilling and is absolutely
environmentally safe.
Bob
From hasselblad Mailing List:
hasselblad@kelvin.net writes:
being new to Hasselblad I didn't know there is a special tool to cock
the body. Doesn't a screwdriver suffice ? If not, where do I get this
tool ?
I believe that the special $20 tool is nothing more than a proper-sized
screwdriver inserted into a section of small diameter metal tubing, just
the proper size to slip over the raised head of the cocking mechanism
screw. When the screwdriver is used, this tube acts to keep the
screwdriver on the head, and to keep it front accidentally slipping off
and damaging the glass. I merely took a proper-size screwdriver and
soldered a short length of the proper tubing to it - so that the
screwdriver is fully engaged just at the point where the tube fully slips
over the exterior of the cocking screw. I always carry it with the other
junk. Several year, never needed it. But I'm ready.
Pete Schermerhorn, in the glorious Berkshire hills of western
Massachusetts
[Ed. note: thanks to Brian for sharing these tips!...]
At last Friday's Third Friday Stereo Dinner I mentioned some sources
for small parts. I figured that people hear might also be interested.
These companies deal with R/C model airplane and car hobbiests. I see
them every year at the Westchester Radio Aero Modelers (WRAM) show,
the largest hobby show on the East Coast.
Boca Bearing URL:http://www.bocabearings.com/ all shapes and sizes
of ball bearings.
Micro Fasteners URL:http://www.microfasteners.com/ all sorts of
screws, bolts, and nuts. They sell assortments in nice plastic boxes
that let you sort by size and type.
Aerospace Composite Products URL://www.acp-composites.com/
fiberglass, kevlar, carbon fiber, resin, etc. Various materials are
available as sheets, lamenates, and tubes.
--
From Contax Mailing List:
I don't know the answer. What I can tell you is that I'd snap up
the camera fast if it is working properly.
Years ago I bought an original RTS cheap because it had such a dent
in the prism hump. A dealer had a glass shelf in his display case
collapse and a number of things were dented. His insurance paid
and told him to sell the cameras for them, so the price was very low.
I ordered a new top cover, as well as the black insert circle for the
film advance lever (which is very hard to get off without damage).
Taking off the top was very easy, just remove screws, take out screw
in advance lever and remove it, and just lift top cover off. One
wire connected to hot shoe and had to be unsoldered. It took no time
at all to change to the new top and I had a brand new camera! I still
have the dented top cover which I kept for some unknown reason.
The way you take off those round black metal circles in advance levers and
sometimes on other knobs is to heat them up with a soldering iron to
soften the glue and pop them out with the tip of a very sharp knife. But
you nearly always put a mark on them in getting them out, so replacing
with a new one is generally what's done. On old cameras where no new ones
are to be had you must just be ultra careful when you pop them out.
Bob
[Ed. note: Caveat Adjuster!...]
If you persevere though the ridiculously long message I sent, sorry about
that, you will find that most in service adjustments just require tweaking
the eccentric screw that holds the roller onto the arm. The screw you
mention does adjust the vertical alignment of the rangefinder. Late M4-2
and
up have no screw there but require a special tool to make the adjustment.
Here is an excellent post from Jim Brick on that adjustment:
- --------------
It's about as long as a new wooden pencil. The handle part of it is a
little smaller than a pencil. It then tapers down to a shaft about the
size of pencil lead. Perhaps between .9 and 1.5mm. Machined at the end of
the very tiny shaft, is a slightly larger round disc, perhaps 2 to 3mm
across and 1mm long. Then sticking out of the far side of this little
disc, out on the edge, is a pin perhaps .7mm in diameter and .5mm long.
These are estimates, but the business end of this tool is teeny tiny.
You stick this tool through the M6 or M4-2 hole, there is a tiny hole, in
the RF mechanism, for the pin to insert into, the larger disk now operates
like an eccentric (hence the name of the tool - M6 RF eccentric). The RF
mechanism is at an angle so you have to push the RF lens coupling cam all
the way into the camera to bring the adjustment mechanism near straight in
order to insert it. You turn the tool very carefully, it rotates around
the pin, and the eccentric disc moves a plate which adjusts the vertical
alignment. Only the teeniest turn is needed. This is a very clumsy trial
and error procedure because it is difficult to leave the tool in while
checking the alignment and because of the angles on the mechanism,
sometimes it's difficult to get the tool out.
To make matters worse, new cameras have the adjusting plate lacquered in
place and it takes a large amount of force to break the lacquer seal for
the first turn, which of course, takes it way way out of alignment. But of
course, once broken loose, it is easy to adjust and the tiny tiny
movements necessary to bring it into alignment are difficult. Mainly
because you cannot feel if it has moved or not and you have to keep
visually checking the RF.
- -----------------------
From: rgivan@cix.compulink.co.uk
msoloff@worldnet.att.net
(Marv Soloff) wrote:
I've heard that Polaroid SX-70s (the folding Polaroid SLRs) are a good
source of FS mirror. Should be large enough for a TLR. A Polaroid SLR680
would also do - but unless actually already broken - a SLR680 is best kept
intact. Quite a useful camera IMHO ;-)
:-)
Roland.
http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/
[Ed. note: you should have high voltage electronics safety training and
experience before working on high voltage strobe capacitors - these
voltages and charges can kill!!! - fyi only..]
Peter Simon pas7036@tam2000.tamu.edu wrote:
I'll try to keep this short and simple.
The problem only exists with one kind of capacitors, i.e. electrolytic
capacitors made of two very thin aluminium foils separated by a a
semi-liquid dielectric material, the whole wound up into a cylindrical
package. This kind of capacitor in fact has a number of drawbacks. But
it's the variety with the by far the highest capacity/volume ratio. And
this is what we need in a flash in order to keep it compact. Built with
conventional non-electrolytic capacitors it would be about the size of a
briefcase.
If such electrolytic capacitors are left discharged for a long time,
they'll either simply dry out or there will be chemical changes which
make them lose their capacity.
Cheers,
--
From: petescherm@aol.com (Pete Schermerhorn)
John,
Simple. Call them in NJ at 973-227-7320 and ask for the Parts dept. The
light traps come as two parts, and its $6. per set. I ordered three sets,
just to have some extras around. They charge a couple of dollars for
postage, as I recall, and you'll get them in a few days by regular mail.
As you probably know, they're a snap to install.
Pete Schermerhorn, in the glorious Berkshire hills of western
Massachusetts
[Ed. note: another caveat repairer! ;=)]
you wrote:
The wind problem is probably due to gummed up lubricant inside the
camera.
The best recommendation is to send it off to Harry Fleenor and get it
overhauled.
If you want to work on it your self get the copy Rolleiflex-Rolleicord
manutals offered by John S. Craig and others. Craig is at
http://www.craigcamera.com
Also get _Rollei Report_ Claus Prochnow, 1996, Stuttgart, Lindermanns
Verlag ISBN 3-89506-156-5
It contains repair and adjustment information in both English and
German.
The serial number makes this a Rolleicord IV. I have one and its a fine
camera.
The focus knob has a cover, thats the thing with the holes for a pin
wrench. It unscrews but may be tight when its not been removed for a long
time. A drop of penetrating oil at its periphery may help. Under the cover
you will find a brass nut with slotted head. The proper tool for turning
this is a screwdriver with a notched tip. The brass is rather soft so care
is needed in loosening it. This brass nut compersses a collet which, in
turn, fixes the the position of the knob in relation to the position of
the lens panel. The knob itself forms the stops for focussing. It must be
re-aligned for infinity focus if its loosened. Removing the brass nut and
collet will allow the knob to come off.
The winding knob has a leather cover. Remove the cover by very gently
peeling it off. It can be started with the edge of a jeweler's
screwdriver. Once its off you will see a metal disc which covers the
fixing screw for the knob. Sometimes this disc will stick to the leather
cover. Removing the screw will allow removal of the knob. Once the two
knobs are off the side can be removed. If it is resistant you have missed
one of the screws.
The cover has shim washers under it at the screw positions. They are
important to prevent binding of the mechanism. Make sure you have all of
them and don't loose them. They will often stick to the inside of the
cover and get lost if you don't find them right away.
There is also a spring washer on the winding knob shaft which has a
tendency to get lost.
For more you really need the book with its exploded drawings.
Rolleicords are not hard to work on. Once the side is off you can see
the mechanism and probably tell where its hanging up.
You didn't say whether you can release the wind mechanism when it hangs
up by sliding the double-exposure prevention button to its released
position. Its the button to the right, facing the camers, between the
lenses. Its normal positon it up. When slid down a red warning appears
above it in its slot. That will release the wind-shutter interlock.
I like working on cameras and had to learn it in self defense at a time
when there was no decent cameras repair person available to me. I suggest
working on junk cameras (if you can find any) before taking on one you
want to use practically. Its fun to learn but one screw or spring visiting
the fourth dimension can make life miserable for a time.
Fleenor isn't cheap because he does outstanding work. He will clean and
lubricate _everything_ including overhauling the shutter and making sure
the every thing is in optical alignment. You will get back essentially a
new camera.
He also has a web site which, for some reason, I haven't put on my
cardfile. A web search for his name should find it.
----
From: remove.david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
"John Stafford" John@Stafford.net wrote:
I bought some parts for a back directly from Hasselblad. No questions
asked. You can get their contact info from their site
hasselbladusa.com
---
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
nospam@nospam.com wrote:
Well, you can try what everyone else does when an "unobtainable"
front surface mirror goes T.U. - find a chunk of front surface
mirror larger than the one you have and cut it to match the bad one.
Either make a cardboard pattern for the cutting or take it to a glass
shop so they can do it. Last FS mirror I took to a glass shop cost me
$2.00 USD to have a duplicate cut - including polishing the edges.
Regards,
Marv
From Leica Mailing List:
John Collier wrote:
It's about as long as a new wooden pencil. The handle part of it is a
little smaller than a pencil. It then tapers down to a shaft about the
size of pencil lead. Perhaps between .9 and 1.5mm. Machined at the end of
the very tiny shaft, is a slightly larger round disc, perhaps 2 to 3mm
across and 1mm long. Then sticking out of the far side of this little
disc, out on the edge, is a pin perhaps .7mm in diameter and .5mm long.
These are estimates, but the business end of this tool is teeny tiny.
You stick this tool through the M6 or M4-2 hole, there is a tiny hole, in
the RF mechanism, for the pin to insert into, the larger disk now operates
like an eccentric (hence the name of the tool - M6 RF eccentric). The RF
mechanism is at an angle so you have to push the RF lens coupling cam all
the way into the camera to bring the adjustment mechanism near straight in
order to insert it. You turn the tool very carefully, it rotates around
the pin, and the eccentric disc moves a plate which adjusts the vertical
alignment. Only the teeniest turn is needed. This is a very clumsy trial
and error procedure because it is difficult to leave the tool in while
checking the alignment and because of the angles on the mechanism,
sometimes it's difficult to get the tool out.
To make matters worse, new cameras have the adjusting plate lacquered in
place and it takes a large amount of force to break the lacquer seal for
the first turn, which of course, takes it way way out of alignment. But of
course, once broken loose, it is easy to adjust and the tiny tiny
movements necessary to bring it into alignment are difficult. Mainly
because you cannot feel if it has moved or not and you have to keep
visually checking the RF.
Jim
[Ed. note: Mr. Knoppow is a noted camera repairperson...]
Walter Donovan walter-donovan@worldnet.att.net wrote:
Lubication depends on the make of the shutter. Ilex shutters are
intended to run dry.
Compur, Wollensak, Kodak, shutters take light clock oil on the
bearings of the retarder gears and on the pallet. Very light grease
like Molykote on sliding parts and on spiral springs for shutters that
use them as main springs. When I talked to a rep for Compur several
years ago he told me that they wanted the shutters running as close to
dry as possible.
No lubricant on shutter or iris pivots.
You can get a photocopy of the factory manuals for several shutters
from John S. Craig or from Petra Keller. There is a book on Compur,
another for Prontor, and one for Wollensak shutters.
Shutters should be cleaned with something like Trichlorethane, which
is selective, so you won't take all the paint off or melt plastic
parts.
A caution for larger Ilex shutters and some other older shutters.
The shutter and diaphragm blades are made of Ebonite (hard rubber)
which will melt if heated and is melted by some solvents, particularly
MEK and Acetone. Avoid these solvents for these, and in fact, any
shutter. Don't force dry Ilex shutters (or others with hard rubber
parts) with heat.
There is some information on Ilex shutters on Steve Grimes site, and
repair information on small Ilex and Kodak shutters in the military
repair manual for the Speed Graphic.
Steve Grimes: http://www.skgrimes.com
John s. Craig: http://www.craigcamera.com
Petra Keller: http://www.camerabooks.com
---
From Contax Mailing List:
The appropriate tool is a small spanner wrench. I'm not sure who
sells them these days.
You can take a small pair of needle-nose pliers and grind the tips
round to make a tool for this sort of work.
Be careful in removing parts with these two-hole designs since many
of them are left hand thread (they turn backwards from ordinary screws).
and you can break them if you turn them the wrong way.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
Bob, I know this is a smiley but seriously...
check the lubricants offered by Nye and by Small Parts. They have very
high viscosity damping grease for helical focusing mechanisms. I've got a
sample of similar grease we had for Fuji zoom lenses for TV cameras. A
very
little in a 35mm focus mount will take out all the play. In fact, the Fuji
stuff is _too_ stiff for some lenses.
----
From Nikon MF Mailing List;
James said:
James is absolutely right. Blue Locktite has something on its
label to the effect that the fastener can be removed with hand
tools. The red stuff does not. Red Locktite will soften if the
fastener is heated with a torch to a point where it will begin
to melt (the Locktite, that is). Don't use Red Locktite on
anything you plan to disassemble again unless you can apply heat
and force safely. I'd try the nail polish route before going to
Blue Locktite, though.
Bill Maloney
From Rollei Mailing List:
I use rubbing alcohol. I imagine most common solvents would work.
The rollers must be shiny clean for everything to work properly.
Bob
From Minolta Mailing List:
The following post on camera tools is from a post on the Rollei group.
I think this sort of thing posted only occasionally on the Minolta group
is on-topic.
Huff
----------------------------------------------------
www.Stahlwill.com
where you can order the finest Stahlwille tools made of hardest reinforced
German steel. Stahlwille is one of the finest tool manufacturers in the
world and they deliver tools to the aerospace industry worldwide. If you
fly in an Airbus or in the Spacelab, you can count that both have been
mounted using Stahlwille or Belzer tools. Both make tools in metric and US
sizes.
Belzer is the other fine manufacturer, but unfortunately they don't have
such nice website (www.Bahco.com).
Stahlwille has also lots of finest screw drivers in their online
catalogue.
I never used drivers from them. My personal experience is concerned with
Belzer and Wiha. During last weekend, I had a look on Wiha drivers in a
local Wall-Mart like store and saw the first time the very tiny ones they
also have. I must admit they look pretty well. From my experience with
Philips no. 2 drivers I am sure that Belzer drivers are of the best.
They are definitely made of better steel than those from Wiha. I made a
one to one comparison, an the Wiha driver had much, much more wear and
bending than the Belzer one. If this is also valid for the tiny ones, to
be honest, I don't know, but I do think so.
==========================================================
.....
From Minolta Mailing List:
Xcelite makes a very nice set of fine screwdrivers. They looks like
regulat screwdrivers, but are about an inch long, and the set includes a
slipover handle to get more torque. I've been using a set for years
where a set of the normal junk lasts about 6 months. Try Jensen Tools
and Alloys;
http://www.jensentools.com
Look for the X-celite Mini-Driver Kit - Jensen has it on their site for
$15.75.
Be careful. If you like neat tools, Jensen is a regular candy store :)
Mike
...
From Contax Mailing List:
Good point. It takes special, custom made testing apparatus to
check out some of the features of all of the newer cameras, whether
from Contax, Nikon, Minolta, Canon, Leica, etc. A general repair
shop won't have the equipment to do these tests. It's sort of like
taking a modern, computer-controlled automobile to a backyard
mechanic.
Bob
...
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
There have been many people wanting to know what kind of oil to use when
making some of the repairs. Here is the inside scoop.
There was a man in Camarillo, California that imported these oils and
greases from Germany. He was elderly, and I had a feeling that I had
better order all I needed in case something were to happen to him. Well,
it did. He retired and ended the business. When he is called, he seems
very crabby, and does not want to give you any info on where you might
get these oils and greases.
Yesterday, I had a little free time, and did a search on the internet
and found the company that makes these oils and greases that all the
manufactures use (including Hasselblad). They can be found at
http://www.losimol.de/pages/english.htm I am sure they will sell it to
you.
The oil you will want to use is called "Tempra" oil. You will need no
grease in your magazine repairs. As soon as I get the chance to do the
manual on the bodies and lenses, you will find that you will need some
grease for certain jobs and the grease is called
"Techn.Lubricant Losoid 3340. One small bottle of the Tempra oil and a
small tin of the Losiod 3340 grease is all you will need to last almost
a lifetime unless you are going into the repair business. Again, these
are the exact oils and greases that Hasselblad uses. This information if
very difficult to find as nobody will hand out this info. It took me
almost 2 years to get the names of the oils and greases, and then it was
just by luck that I found it. It is a closely held secret.
Hope this helps some of you people,
Dick Werner
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Hi all,
My two cents on lubricants for photographic use:
Well, perhaps "two cents" is the wrong term in this case; however,
far-and-away the best range of lubricants ever devised for critical
operations has been the line of KRYTOX lubricants from Dupont. Once
applied, forget about having to lubricate that part on your camera for a
long, long time, if ever (in your lifetime--we know that these fine
cameras will outlast us). KRYTOX is available in very small vials for
special applications. This makes it ideal for taking-in to a repair
facility. Once the tech has used it, there's no going back. This is
absolutely the finest lubricant for the Rollei clean-lube-adjust. The
only reason for a tech not wanting to use it is because he will see repeat
lubrication business "dry up".
I met a great tech in Texas and happened to have a 1oz vial with me.
After he reassembled my 300mm with KRYTOX he ordered from a friend at the
fire department. It seems that his FD uses it as the only permissible
lubricant on the high-pressure stage for their breathing apparatus
regulators.
That vial cost me 32.00 about five years ago but will last a good long
time.
Peter Mattei
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000
Mike Jordan wrote:
The traditional tool for engaging with the notches on the retaining ring
is a spanner wrench. Adjustable spanner wrenches will do many optical
tasks like disassembling lenses. The cheaper alternative for just the
task of fastening shutters to lensboards is a piece of thick sheet metal
with slots cut, leaving projections at the correct separation for each
shutter size. These are made by Rodenstock and Toyo and cost something
like $10 or $15. The major retailers stock them. For this specific
task, I find the cheaper tool to work as well or better than an
expensive adjustable wrench, so don't think you are being cheap when you
buy this tool.
My experience is that if you want to avoid the shutter rotating on the
board, you have to at go beyond hand tightening and at least lightly use
the wrench.
--Michael
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000
The screw heads are reacting with the tanning acids in the leather and
moisture in the atmosphere. It is fairly easy to remove the leather,
use a thin flat blade screw driver to lift the leather off (sometimes
preheating with a hair drier helps). Clean off the corrosion on the
leather and the screw heads. Coat the screw heads with clear finger
nail polish and reglue the leather down. Traditionally the leather was
glued down with varnish or lacquer. I use rubber cement or pliobond, do
not use paper glue or gluesticks (the leather doesn't stay put with
these).
karl
MLapla4120 wrote:
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Hello, I am thinking of importing a quanitu of Hasselblad oils and greases
but need to know who would be interested in them and if there is enough
people who would buy them. I have a friend who has packaging machines and
it is possible to package these in nice vials or bottles.
I was thinking of packaging oil in 5ml bottles and grease in 10-15 ml (1/2
oz) air tight containers) and selling a kit for around $20 (packaging here
gets more expensive than the contents)
Please let me know if you are interested.
Regards
Milla R. Pesic
[Ed. note: Re: source for shims..]
If you do it yourself then remove the back door and tape the old screen to
the film rails. This way you compare the focus of the top lens to the
bottom lens. It's not that hard, just a little tedious. If you go to a
car parts store they have little brass strips in various thickness you can
make shims out of.
From: "S. F. Au" S.F.Au@tnw.tudelft.nl
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
Really not. Making lenses coincident is more accurate. Collimating is
using a collimator to adjust the infinity stop. A collimator is an
instrument which produces a beam of light which appears to come from
infinity. In its simplest form it is a corrected lens with a pin hole
source at its infinity focus. A simple collimator can be made from a view
camera provided the lens is fairly large. The process is "autocollimation"
which is useful for finding the infinity focus of a lens when a very
distant object is not available. You need a mirror and a small light
source.
The mirror is placed over the outside of the lens. A first surface
mirror is desirable but an ordinary shaving mirror will work. For a very
rough set up place the tip of a pencil flashlight against the ground glass
near, but not at, the center. An image of the flash will be projected back
through the lens to the ground glass. Focus it as sharply as possible. The
lens is now exactly at its infinity focus position. A light or mark on the
ground glass, seen through the lens will appear to come from infinity. It
is quite practical to check the infinity focus positions of cameras with a
makeshift collimator like this.
When setting up a twin lens camera like the Rollei two steps are
required. The first is to set the focus stop to infinity. On most Rollei
cameras this is done by slipping the focus knob on its shaft. The knob
itself contains the stop. The second step is getting the finder lens
coincident with the taking lens. This can be done at any distance and can
be done without setting the infinity stop first. The taking lens is set by
putting a piece of ground glass in the film gate so it rests against the
reference surface for the film. The lens is carefully focused on some
object. The finder lens is then adjusted so that it is also in exact
focus.
In most Rollei cameras the finder lens is mounted in a threaded barrel
which can be screwed in and out of its mounting. There is also some
arrangement for locking the lens in place once adjusted. The exact locking
arrangement varies with model.
Ideally, the coincidence ( and for that matter the infinity position)
should be calibrated using an autocollimator of the type which projects a
test subject into the front of the lens and allows viewing the projected
image inside the camera. This is done with a split prism and telescope.
This system allows focusing on actual film in the camera. Rolleis are
pretty good about film flatness so this is probably an unnecessary
refinement, nonetheless, its ideal if it can be done.
Rolleis are well designed and built so the adjustments are not hard to
make and are very stable once done.
----
From: "Noah Spam" nospam@never.net
Yes, it's just a matter of wear: the top and bottom covers of older
cameras
usually were stamped and formed out of brass, then finished with chrome
plating or black paint. Over a long time, rubbing can wear off the outer
finish so the brass shows through. That's brassing.
And yes, it can be restored, although it's not easy. To do a good job of
it, you have to remove all the remaining original finish, and to do that,
you've got to remove the covers, which usually requires the services of a
repair technician. Once the covers are off, black paint can be removed
with paint remover and chrome plating can be removed via "reverse
electroplating" to get down to the base brass -- then it's just a matter
of applying a new finish. To make it look convincing, though, you've also
got to remove all the knobs, levers, etc. and refinish them, too, to avoid
a mismatched look.
The reason it's so seldom done is that usually it's just not worth the
bother. A collectible camera is usually more valuable if it still has the
authentic, original finish, even if brassed. And refinishing an everyday
"user" camera probably wouldn't add enough to its value to justify the
expense of doing the work.
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
you wrote:
Milos:
I purchased the KRYTOX through a friend at MSA (Mine Safety Appliance).
I will be on the phones on Tuesday to find out where it is commercially
available. I went on the Dupont website and noticed that they have
toll-free lines to customer service for directing purchasers of their
products. I'll let all know what I find out. In the meantime, try
Dupont:
http://www.dupont.com/lubricants/
They have a general industrial listing of distributors. I don't know what
sizes they have available but I know that MSA sold tiny amounts in these
plastic vials/tubes because a little goes a long way and only a tiny
amount is used when performing surgery on the high pressure regulators.
Cheers,
Peter Mattei
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
Speed Graphic/Graflex shutters are not hard to work on. The accuracy of
the shutters was never anything to write home about, nonetheless they can
be fairly consistent.
It is easy to get the back off any Speed Graphic or Graflex. Once off,
most of the shutter will be exposed. It can be lubricated, which will make
it quieter and somewhat faster.
Spring tension on all but Pacemaker cameras can be adjsuted with out
disassembly.
You need a Calumet tester to tell what the speeds actually are. Most
older SGs I've checked seem to have had the tension run up to the very top
speed was actually 1/1000. This throws off the speeds everywhere else.
The speed for the small slits must also be measured carefully using the
technique in the instruction book supplied with the tester. Otherwise the
reading will be misleading. The technique compensates for shutter
efficiency and gives the _effective_ speed, which is what is wanted.
The speed also varies during the travel due to acceleration of the
shutter. Its about 2:1 at the highest speed. The chart speed is given as
the average across the film plane.
SG shutter curtains seem to hold up better than those on most 35mm
cameras, however the curtain should be checked for pin-holes or flaking.
For more details e-mail me privately. This is probably too far off topic
to pursue here.
BTW, I have a Super-D Graflex. They are great cameras, though Rollei
users would find them heavy and clumsy. Mine has a Graflok back, which
increases its utility. Virtually any 4x5 Graflex made camera can be
adapted for a Graflex back with little or no surgery.
----
From Panoramic Mailing List:
What about big clock springs like at:
http://www.theclockman.com/cmspring.html
http://www.peninsulaspring.com/clock.html
Cya
From Panoramic Mailing List;
Have a look at
http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/intro.html
This may be of use (?)
Cya
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote
Fred Lustig. There is some information about him on the Graflex site at
http://www.graflex.org.
Fred bought some of the parts formerly held by the Graflex Western
Division. The Western Division was originally bought out by Roger Adams,
its manager. He sold out some years ago to (I think) Midwest Photo, who
sold some of its stuff to Fred.
Fred prefers to work on cameras rather than sell parts. I believe the
following is still valid.
Fred Lustig, PO box 21461,
AFAIK, he doesn't have a web site or e-mail
----
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Relative to Dick Werner's suggestion, I tried to obtain the oil & grease.
Here' the reply and no I didn't order the products because I could never
use all of this. I sent this on to Dick to see if he was interested in
buying bulk, repackaging and selling to us; no reply yet.
Owen
jon wells jwells1@slip.net wrote:
The Kalart is set up at infinity, 15 feet and 4 feet.
Some care is needed since if the infinity setting of the lens is not
correct the rangefinder will be impossible to adjust.
The preliminary settings for the two internal sliders are:
Note that this is for 4x5 cameras only.
To set up the RF first check the position of the actuating lever on
the RF shaft. It should just touch the back of the camera case when
the RF is at its mechanical stop. Earlier RFs have a flat section on
the end of the shaft. Make a wrench for this out of a small strip of
metal with a slot filed in it. This can be used to set the RF shaft to
its stop. Tighten the set screws for the actuating lever with the
lever against the back of the camera box.
Later RFs have a threaded hole in front of the body, near the front
slider, for the infinity adjustment. A long screw can be threaded
into this hole to force the RF to its infinity position. It can also
be actuated by sticking a jewelers screw driver or the smooth end of a
small drill into the hole. Adjust the RF arm as above.
Next, check the infinity setting of the lens.
The focus track should be racked out about 1/16 to 1/8th inch from its
back stop. Set the lens eccentric infinity corrector on the front
standard for its centeral position (slot vertical).
Lock the focus track and slide the lens until its focused sharply on
an object at infinity. For accurate adjustment the object should be a
quarter mile or more away.
Lock the infinity stops to fix the lens in this position on the
focusing track. Use a small square to make sure the lens is exactly
parallel to the back.
The RF should indicate infinity close to this position if everything
is set up right. Small errors should be corrected using the eccentric
adjustment on the front standard. There is an auxilliary (and
undocumented) infinity adjustment screw below the bottom prism. It can
be adjusted if the infinity position set up as above appears to be far
off the mark. Before using this adjusment it is better to reset the
position of the standard on the focusing track. Check where the RF
indicates infinity. It should be within the rack out limits given
above (1/16th to 1/8th inch). If not, use the prism adjustment to get
in on. There is some backlash in this adjustment. Tap the RF after
making it to make sure everythingn settles down before proceding with
the rest of the procedure.
As part of the infinity setting procedure set the lateral
coincidence. This is done with a screw on the front of the RF just
below the upper window. Set it at infinity. The screw is mounted on
the casing. It has a slot in its end which engages the adjustment tab
on the top mirror. Set it with the case on, then take the case off for
the rest of the procedure.
After setting up for infinity set the 15foot distance. This is the
rear slider. it may take several adjustments alternating between the
infinity corrector and the rear slider to get both right.
After getting them on set up at four feet.
Make a target with two crosses on it. One at the lens postion and
another at the position of the top window of the RF. Set the camera up
exactly parallel to this target with the centers lined up. Set the
front slider.
Then re-check the 15 foot and infinity position. Infinity will have
changed little, if at all, but the 15 foot adjustment may need to be
touched up. If so, re-check infinity, these two interact a lot.
Then recheck 4 feet, it will probably have to be changed. Again
juggle between infinity 15feet and 4feet. If the camera has never been
set up you will have to do this several times before everything falls
into place. Eventually, when you get it set, the RF will very _very_
accurate over the range from infinity to about 3.5 feet, the near
limit depending on the FL of the lens.
Use a good loupe to check the ground glass focus for each
adjustment.
NOTE--CAUTION-- The lock screw for the 15 foot adjustment (at the side
of the RF) has BACKWARD THREADS. Be very careful not to force it. Its
very easy to forget and break the head off the thing. It LOOSENS GOING
CLOCK WISE.
What else? Clean the surfaces of the partially silvered mirror at
the top with pure isopropyl alcohol and very carefully, the silvering
comes off.
If you have a dim mirror due to some of the silvering coming off put
a bit of neutral density filter over the inside of the top window,
that will incrase the contrast of the two images.
According to a letter on the Graflex site suitable mirror material
is available from Edmund Scientific.
A further note. It will be necessary at times to put the case back
on the RF to do the adjustments. This is for two reasons. First, to
locate the eye properly, second to keep out stray light. The eye must
be in the right postion of the adjustments will be in error.
Its not necessary to fasten the case on the RF but it shoule be
removed and replaced very carefully.
The only other advise is to be very gentle with things, small screws
are easy to damage.
Once set up the RF will be very stable and very accurate.
If you take the RF completely off the camera you can take the base
plate off and clean and relube the cams. only the lightest lubing is
needed. Thick grease will cause histerysis (back lash) making the RF
impossible to use. This is a problem with old RFs, especially if they
were over lubed at some time. The gummy lubrication makes them sticky
and irregular.
Good luck. If I've missed anything post back.
---
Editor's note: see http://www.edromney.com/products.html for
manual:
THE KALART RANGEFINDER..Installation, adjustment repair, factory data with
additional Romney notes...covers most models.....$15
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000
"john" stafford@vax2.winona.msus.edu wrote:
AFAIK, there were two variations but they seem to have the same
mounting pattern. The original Kalart has the adjustment sliders on
the outside. The later version has them inside. There were many small
variations of the second model but all are very similar on the
outside.
I don't have a Hugo Meyer RF but they seem to have been the same
dimentions as the Kalart.
This is for Speed Graphics. Both companies made rangefinders for
other cameras. They may have had somwhat different exterior
dimentions, but I don't have a Kalard catalogue so can't be sure of
that.
Is it the overall size or the location of the actuating shaft which
is different?
Also, which stange 4x5 is this? You have me intrigued:-)
---
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000
Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com wrote
It is a Printex. There were even 35mm and MF versions. Here is more:
http://wind.winona.msus.edu/~stafford/PRINTEX/PRINTEX.HTM
Feel free to browse the directory, too.
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000
....
I remember seeing these advertised when I was a kid:-)
There were a great many start-up companies right after WW-2. Most of
them didn't survive very long. Photographic manufacturers had it
particularly tough. There was a killing luxury tax on cameras combined
with teriffic inflation as soon as war-time price controlls were
removed And it wasn't long before the established photo companies in
Europe started back in business and US companies converted back to
civilian products from war work. Also, typical of small business, most
of them were under capitalized. Also, the announcement of the Polaroid
instant camera c.1949 instantly killed a lot of small manufacturers
and caused even the big guys (Kodak) to have trouble. Lots of reasons.
In any case a lot of small companies died off rather quickly, even
those with inovative products, like the Printex, went down for the
count.
I did a little more looking. It turns out that the rangefinders made
for the Pacemaker series Graphic cameras mount differently than
earlier RFs do. They have an "L" bracket at the top which fastens to
the top of the camera rather than to the side. The Kalart used on
Anniversary Graphics and other cameras have "ears" or a flange on the
sides for the screws. The screws on the Printex appear to be in the
right position for these rangefinders.
The photos don't show the top of the camera. Check to see if it has
mounting holes for the bracket there.
Although my Kalart looks like the bracket can be mounted so that the
mounting holes in it face sidways they still probably wouldn't fit the
mounting holes for the older Kalart since the rear hole was off-set
vertically. Its been some time since I had the case off this RF, I
don't remember if it has internal mounting holes. If so, they should
be visible from the side of the RF while it is off the camera.
Kalart may have made a bracket for mounting this RF to replace older
rangfinders. I think it wouldn't be hard to make little ear brackets
to make it fit the mounting holes for the older type RF.
I have no idea of how it is coupled to the focusing mechanism
inside.
---
[Ed. note: in addition to being a noted photo instructor, photobook
author, glamour etc. photographer, and editor of shutterbug, Mr. Shell was
also a noted camera repair tech!...]
Wei,
You need to know where it is leaking light. If the seals on the magazine
which seal where the film insert seats are bad, they are easily replaced.
If the leak is between the body and the back that is more serious and
could be either the body or the back (or both!) needing repair and that is
not simple or cheap.
To determine where the leak is, you can load up a test film and put some
black tape around where the magazine meets the body on all four sides.
Then a second test film (or second half of the same one) with no tape
there, but taped around joint between film insert and magazine.
Once you know exactly where the leak is, then you can decide how to deal
with it. If the leak is between body and back and you have only the one
back, you can just tape it and leave the tape!
Bob
From Contax Mailing List:
I was exaggerating for effect, but your statement below is not completely
true either. Leica no longer have any parts for screw mount cameras even
though the IIIG came out later than the M3. I'm told that some parts for
my M3 are no longer available. Some parts for older Hasselblad C lenses,
likewise, are no longer available.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
If you just start hammering any old way, the camera (or whatever) may end
up in worse shape afterward than before you started.
A couple of things about removing dents. You need to have something to
"hammer" the dent against. Body shops for cars use a metal block held in
the hand. the object used to "beat" against should be formed to about the
shape you want to get back to. I have used a "soft" wooden block to lay
the camera top down on.
Start at the edge (NOT the middle) of the dent and work to the middle.
If you start in the middle, the metal will be badly stretched. I have used
a wood dowel or plastic rod as a dowel to contact the camera. I wouldn't
recommend that the hammer itself contact the dent. The part that contacts
the dent has to be fairly soft (wood or plastic) or every hammerstroke
will leave a dent.
There are clamps for straightening the filter threads on lenses, but I
have had good success cutting half a circle into the top of a 1"x4" board,
clamping it in a vise, and having someone hold the lens "nose" so it lays
in the half circle with the dented side . Then I have used a wooden dowel
and started at the sides of the dent. Going a little at a time and
checking frequently, I can generally get the dent out so that the filter
will re thread. If you use a brass dowel against the threads, you won't
likely have any threads when you're done. I paid a shop $80 once to
straighten a dent and apparently they used a metal hammer. I wished
afterward I had done it myself.
flat chrome surfaces may not be perfect when you're done, so I wouldn't
start with a valuable piece to learn on. I a surface is black painted, a
few dabs of sanding primer or a tube of spot putty from an auto supply
shop will fill small low spots. This has worked well for me in restoring
the prism finder for an old Canon F-1 that was dented. In retouching
black paint, it's hard to beat an airbrush.
bob
FRom Nikon Mailing List:
At 10:10 PM 10/10/2000, you wrote:
If the dirt is in focus when you look through the finder it's on the focus
screen. If it's on the finder eyepiece it'll be visible when you're
holding
the camera but far out of focus when viewing. if it's on the mirror, at
best it'd be an indistinct blob, but certainly NOT an in focus object.
- --
From Contax Mailing List;
Some brands of sunscreen contain solvents which will destroy the vinyl
covering used on cameras. Some will even etch your fingerprints into
the plastic handgrips. I suggest that after applying sunscreen people
carefully wash the palm sides of their hands with soap and water before
handling their cameras.
Bob
....
From Rollei Mailing List:
Interesting how experiences differ. I've never blown a fuse in a 6000
series camera in all the years of using them. I did once own an SLX that
liked to blow fuses but got rid of it. I would not recommend putting
3-in-One oil ANYWHERE on a camera. It is completely wrong for this
purpose since it has a penetrating oil base. For cameras you want an oil
which does not "crawl" and stays exactly where you put it. 3-in-One is
designed to do just the opposite.
Bob
...
From Rollei Mailing List:
Since I don't do camera repair any more I have lost touch with sources
of supply. In my days we used whale oil which was the staple of the
watch and camera business. It had perfect characteristics and did not
creep or crawl at all. When whale oil was banned from sale in the
USA the photo industry switched to porpoise jaw oil, which is similar
but not as good as whale oil (spermaceti). Today it is my understanding
that jojoba oil and some synthetics are used for delicate lubricating
jobs like watches and cameras. I'd check jewelers supply houses and
see what they sell if I needed to lube a camera.
Bob
...
From Rollei Mailing List:
I have used with great success NYEOIL which is probably petroleoum based.
Works very well on Compur and Compound shutters that I have worked on.
If I remember correctly, Harry Fleenor may be using one of those fancy
synthetic oils. His CLA jobs seem to hold for a longer time than CLA done
at other places.
Andrei D. Calciu (VA-4270)
From Rollei Mailing List:
Hmmm, might work. I used to buy my oils, greases and such from
National Camera back in the old days when Sam Love ran that operation
in Colorado. Later I used to buy this stuff from, of all places,
the repair department at Vivitar. I still have some of the cross-point
screwdrivers I got from Vivitar. Top quality stuff.
Bob
...
From Contax Mailing List;
Don't use superglue if you want to be able to replace the covering at
some point. Use a contact adhesive. Spread thinly on both covering and
camera and let dry to the tacky stage before pressing together.
Bob
From Contax Mailing List:
You just jogged my memory. Losoid greases used to be repackaged in
smaller quantities and sold through hobby shops and model railroading
shops. I haven't looked for any in ages, but might be worth checking.
Bob
From ROllei Mailing List:
Again, check your jeweler's supply outlets. They sell a pre-mixed
watch wash for use in cleaning the innards of watches. Get the kind
without silicon lubricant. I used to use this stuff on leaf shutters
in my own home-made cleaning machine. (Metal can from 100 foot roll
of 35mm film glued on the bottom to a piece of tire inner tube. This
was in turn glued to a piece of wood, and rigged so the "clapper" of
an old door bell whacked the rubber and vibrated the can.)
Instructions for building one of these came from an old issue of
Amateur Photographer if I remember correctly. It worked just fine.
Of course if you want to put money into it you can buy an ultrasonic
cleaning machine from those same people who supply jewelers.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List;
you wrote:
I'm not sure how wonderful a cleaner Naptha is. The best stuff, if you
can get it, is 1,1,1,trichloroethane. This used to be very common in spray
cans you could get at Radio Shack or any other electronic parts house. Now
its harder to get and expensive since it is an environmental hazard. Its
still put up in spray cans by Miller-Stephenson.
The idea is that you need a selective solvent. It should be effective on
oil and grease but not affect paint or dissolve plastic or hard rubber.
Trichlor fits this perfectly. It is not inflamable (naptha is nearly as
inflamable is gasoline) and not too toxic although the fumes are not good
for you.
It can be used in ultrasonic cleaners or in vapor degreasers (easy to
make) or simply sprayed into a shutter followed up by compressed air.
Rollei's are not hard to clean, the shutters are Compur with all metal
parts.
Many old shutters like Compound and Ilex have shutter and diaphragm
blades made of Ebonite, or hard rubber. It will dissolve in some solvents
(MEK will make short work of one) and should not be subjected to heat
since the parts will melt.
I talked to the distributor of Compur shutters several years ago and was
told they now recommend running the shutters as nearly dry as possible.
Main springs of the spiral (clock motor) type should be lightly lubricated
with Moly-Kote. If the retarder runs OK without oil leave it that way. The
recommended oil, where it is used, is watch oil or Nyoil. I've found
suitable very light oil in model train stores under the name LeBell. It
should be applied _very_ sparingly. Brush a little out on a dish and pick
it up with the end of a fine brush to apply it. The end of a wooden
toothpick works for some things.
I've also found that a contact cleaner called Deoxid will work for quick
and dirty fixing of stuck shutters. It leaves a very fine lubrlicating
coating that doesn't seem to gum. I've lubed a couple of old shutters with
this stuff, meaning to do the job properly later, and found it lasted for
years. Also works well on flash contacts and other electrical contacts, no
surprize, that's what its meant for.
Another solvent which works well for a number of kinds of oils is plain
Isopropyl alcohol. Its available in 95% concentration at the drug store.
The caution with Isopropyl is that it is a very efficient absorber of
moisture and will leave moisture behind it if not blown out. Do NOT use
rubbing alcohol, its 30% water.
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
Once again the jeweler has a better solution. I bought a set of watch
oilers. They have a handle like a little screwdriver and a fine wire
coming out the end. At the tip of the wire is a metal bead. Each size
of oiler has a different bead and wire size, and each will deposit a drop
of oil of a very precise size exactly where you want it.
Compur, in their shop manuals, does not recommend running the shutters
dry except in very low temperature situations.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
On gummed up shutters, I have successfully use a photographivc store
product PEC-12, sold in a 4 oz spray bottle as archival photographic
emulsion cleaner. I',e used an eye dropper to administer small amounts
will operating the shutter, allowing it to evaporate as I applied. I
beleive the product is "perc" , a non imflammable dry cleaning product but
the bottle doesn't say so. Try on a throw-away shutter first, at your own
risk, but it has worked for me.
Ralph Ramey
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000
You can purchase NyOil and damping greases directly from TAI Lubricants.
TAI is th exclusive small volume distributor for Nye Lubricants, Inc.
The Damping Grease Kit is being used by hundreds of Camera Repair shops
around the world. The NyOil also is very popular.
From Nikon MF Mailing List;
I believe that an inexpensive repair shop and some "heavy" grease wil
provide the solution.
When I bought a 75-150 a year ago, it was in beautiful shape, minimally
used but the zoom wouldn't hold. Even though that's quite normal for
zooms of that era, it sure was a nuisance.
A very experienced local repairman gave me a quick seminar...
Recommendations 1) Don't do anything if it doesn't bug you. 2) If it
does, don't put anything mechanical around or in the lens, since then it
doesn't creep 'cause there is a physical impediment (i.e. imperfect
handling or worse). 3) If you must "fix" it, then have it disassembled,
for the application of a tiny amount of very heavy grease on the track
that the zoom runs down, but then 4) it's my responsibility never to let
the lens get overheated or "cooked" in a car, since the grease can very
slowly get into the surrounding optics if the user is careless, and 5)
to discourage me, he noted that the greasing would be somewhat
"expensive", since it takes some time, but 6) this is not unlike the
type of lubricant that is used in many more recent zooms, even from
Nikon.
If I was going to "collect" the lens, I would avoided the grease, but
since I'm using it, I opted for the grease.
Now it handles perfectly; no slip, but no resistance. Zooms and holds
like a new lens.
Paul E
From Nikon MF Mailing List;
A better solution to loose eyepieces is using a material called Lock
Washer. It is designed to hold nuts on screw threads. The advantage of
it over nail polish is that 1) it is easier to remove the eyepiece if you
desire, and 2) it does not run and spread all over the place like the
liquid nail polish does.
Dear Mr. Monaghan,
I have been watching your site for years now, especially the repair
section. It has been a wondreful experience and whenever I needed some
information, your site has been a great source of it. The very idea to
make such a site is amazing, because it gives MF camera users a full
overview what is on the market. Especially the buying tips and other
postings have helped me decide and avoid pitfalls so common when buying
used equipment.
I have imported a large quantity of original Hasselblad lubricants made by
Losimol, a German company that specializes in top quality lubricants for
Optics Industry and would like to offer them in small quantities to your
site readers., since I myself only need a very small quantity of it.,
being a non-professional repairperson. They are professionaly repackaged
in 10ml jars for grease and 5ml blunt needle syringes for oil - a quantity
that will last me a lifetime for my 4 bodies and 8 lenses.
I would like to be able to post this information on availability of these
lubricants with your permission, and would like to ask you an advice as to
where do you think I should post it on your site.
Thank you oncemore for maintaining this very useful website.
Best regards
R.Pesic
From Leica Mailing List:
.....
I remember Walt telling everyone that you had to take an M6 apart in order
to adjust the vertical RF alignment. I did correct him but had I not seen
his post, many would still be thinking that M6 RF alignment is a major
operation. Not true, of course. Like all other M cameras, it is through an
easily accessible hole in the front of the camera. Nothing has to be
"taken apart." It is actually very simple.
Jim
From Leica Mailing List;
Well Walt, you are dead wrong. Still and again. I was taught by Leica
(Ernst Hartmann) how to do it and I have the special LEICA MADE tool,
which is a very tiny eccentric on the end of a shaft, which fits into a
slot. This is under the red dot. A little fiddly and delicate, but simple.
Following is part of the invoice for the tool, scanned and OCR'ed so I
could include it here, purchased from Leica NJ and delivered from Solms:
As you can see, it is the same tool they used on the M4P BEFORE the M6 was
invented.
So, let's hear it again... you have to do what to adjust the M4P & M6
RF? This is what I was talking about. Bogus information being disseminated
on the LUG.
Jim
From Rollei Mailing List:
There are some leather cleaners from a small company called "Bee Natural."
I have been told that one of the leather conditioners is used by the
Smithsonian to preserve the leather articles within the museum. True or
not, the stuff works very well. Check out the line at
http://www.bee-natural.com/ The products are first rate and reasonably
priced. I use the Leather Amore and it seems to do a great job on
the straps and cases.
I have used the Distressed Leather conditioner, but it will darken the
leather.
They are very helpful id you call and ask if a product will work for your
specific use.
Peter K
Looking for suggestions on the best product to keep my rollei cases and
straps soft and crack-free (no 'say no to drug jokes, please). I have
tried several readily available ones but they either didnt do the job, or
left a slightly tacky coating on the leather.
Also, does anyone know a leathersmith familiar with these products who
can handle restitching and repair with competence?
Question, #3 (am I over the limit?) Where can I buy alligator clips?
Thanks,
Charlie Silverman
From Rollei Mailing List;
...
You can buy optical spanner wrenches from Edmund Scientific. But if you
only anticipate occasional use you can just buy a cheap pair of needle
nosed pliers and file the tips down to fit the holes.
Bob
From Nikon MF Mailing List:
G'day Dave,
Try using sticky tape to peel the foam pieces off the bottom (fresnel)
part. However don't press too hard, as this would push the stuff in
deeper.This method works well (without scratching) for getting foam or
dust off the mirror too. I don't know of another method if this doesn't
work. For the top (condenser) part, tissue paper would do as it's made of
glass.
Hope this helps,
Sover
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Whenever I do a disassembly, I record the entire process with my
camcorder, which is on a tripod looking over my shoulder. I also narrate
the trickier stuff.
From Rollei Mailing List:
Once I got a Rolleicord 1 very cheap. The seller sold it for $10 because
he thought that the cleaning of the shutter would cost much more than the
camera. The second was veeery long, between six and eight seconds!
I just took a pin dipped in watchmakers oil, very thin, and touched the
axles (right word?) in the shutters hemmwerk and this was all I did. Now
the camera has worked perfect for ten years!
I guess I was just lucky that time. I have spent over a thousand dollars
for shutter repairs over the years...
/Patric
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000
timepixdc@aol.com (TimePixDC) wrote:
Check the "Load-Process" lever on the back of the holder. When its
released and sticking straight up the bar can be twisted
counter-clockwise a little, unhooking from the tabs that reach into
the case and attach to the rollers. Twisting it off will release the
rollers which can be pulled up through the door on the front. The door
is locked by a slider along its front lip marked "Open" on one side
and "Close" on the other.
The upper roller will fold out and the lower roller can be cleaned in
place. Its held by springs at each end which can be pried back a
little releasing it so that it comes out completely. This will allow
cleaning out bbany junk which has accumulated under it.
The roller is reconnected by reversing the procedure.
The body of the holder opens somewhat like the current 540 model by
prying up the strips on the sides.
Instructions for the newer holder can be found on Steve Grimes' web
site at http://www.skgrimes.com A similar technique will work for the
obsolete holder.
---
From Rollei Mailing List;
The only caution I know of about alcohol, besides the obvious one of
checking the paint, is with a few very old shutters. I once had an old
shutter come in for cleaning and, after removing the optics and faceplate,
dropped it into my home-made sonic cleaner which was filled with alcohol.
When I took the shutter out a couple of hours later I was horrified to
find the shutter blades gone! Turns out that some of these old shutters
had blades made from black celluloid, and guess what dissolves
celluloid!!!
That goes down as one of my most shocking moments in the repair shop!
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
...
Heat can be another problem for some shutters. Large size Ilex shutters
and some others have shutter blades and diaphragm leafs made of hard
rubber. They will melt in even fairly gentle heat.
The best solvents are those which are selective for the particular
greases used in shutters. Naptha (lighter fluid) seems to be a reasonable
solvent aside from the fire hazard, which is considerable. Carbon
tetrachloride is an excellent solvent but a deadly material to work with
and a proven carcinogen. Trichlorethane is an envrionmental hazard and a
possible carcinogen, Trichlorethylene is also an envrionmental hazard and
proven carcinogen. Ether is too broad a solvent and is dangerous as hell,
toxic, a very serious fire hazard, and explosive when it gets old or is
exposed to light. The alcohols are fairly good solvents, but not as good
as some of the more hazardous ones. They are comparitively safe, but still
fire hazards and toxic if you breath enough vapors. Boy, that doesn't
leave much.
----
From Rollei Mailing List:
Tell me about it. I used to use trichlor for all sorts of cleaning of
camera parts. Didn't know it was a hazard since there were no warning
labels on the cans. Radio Shack used to sell a trichlor based tuner
tonic, but the stuff they sell now is entirely different and appears to be
petroleum based. I don't know if it would work on shutters.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
Austin
The "Green Stuff" in old camera mechanisms is/are copper compounds
(oxides, sulphates, sulfides,nitrates etc) caused by the oxidation of
brasses, bronzes used in these mechanisms. Lubricants which are
acids can start these reactions.
Many years ago, I started to use Jojoba oils which are supposed to
be non-oxidizing and non-gumming like sperm whale oil.
Jerry Lehrer
...
From Rollei Mailing LIst;
you wrote:
All-metal shutters, like the Compur, may survive but I wouldn't do it.
Even Kodak shutters have some plastic parts in them (and some sealing
compound in flash versions) I don't know what the heat would do to them.
You could try a simple vapor degreaser using Trichlorethylene. Don't try
it with alcohol since the flash point is too low. The Trichlor will
vaporize at a fairly low temperature, perhaps below 150F. Use something
like a vegatable steamer with the shutter in the top. Heat it with
somthing like a heating pad under the pot. The vapor condenses on the
shutter and drips off taking the grease with it. Since there is no grease
in the new vapor this system can do a very thorough job of degreasing
without leaving any residue whatever. The vapor is toxic so do it
outdoors. Even though the Trichlor will not dissolve paint when put
directly on the degreaser will make some types of paint peel right off,
so, if you actually want to try this system test on something that doesn't
matter first.
I was introduced to vapor degreasers many years ago when I worked for a
company that made established reliability precision resistors. These were
made by vacuum deposition of metallic coatings on ceramic blanks. The
degreaser was used to clean the blanks before using them. The vent for
this thing got clogged one day and sent about thirty production line girls
home sick. These days Cal OSHA would have been there toot de sweet and
some of the executives would have gone to the slammer. They knew there was
a problem but were just too cheap to fix it.
We also had a carbon coating machine which vented directly into the
production area. Jeeze, what a place.
----
From Rollei Mailing List;
Top covers for these cameras have been unavailable from Rollei for some
years. I don't think the top cover for the special edition ones they make
today will fit your camera, but could be wrong.
Dents can sometimes be removed with careful work. I have a jeweler's ring
sizing hammer which can be used and you need something very solid to use
as an anvil on the other side. A lot of gentle taps will accomplish more
than a few hard ones. Use paper between the hammer and the metal to
preserve the finish.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List:
I've been using Moebius watch oils which are arguably the best in the
industry. They have an entire rang of fully synthetic oils to suit any
purpose which are available at most jewlers supply stores. They will set
you back about $20 for a 2ml bottle which is enough to do maybe 10 full
cameras (Not just the shutter). I use the 9010 oil which is pretty much a
standard. They've been around a long time and claim to never gum up.
They are non-toxic and compatible with many plastics and copper alloys.
They exhibit no residue at low temperature usage and do not spread at all.
9010 is claimed to be good down to -30C though I've used my camera in
lower temperatures without problems. Useable up to +70C too. If you want
an especially cold oil then go for 9030 which is claimed to go down to -40
but will actually work in lower temperatures. A few vital
characteristics;
They are available online here
http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Oils_Lubricants.html
though the best way to get them is just to call a jewelers supply store in
your are. Get an oil application tool too!
Shaun
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001
"Erik Asgeirsson" erik2@mediaone.net wrote:
Absolutely DO NOT lubricate the aperture or shutter blades. They are
meant to run dry on all shutters. The blades have either a smooth
surface or are treated so that they slip over each other easily.
If the blades are sticking there is most likely something on them
causing them to bind. Try cleaining them very carefully with pure
alcohol on a cotton swab. Also look for any dents, nicks, or other
distortions of the blades. If you find any a really good shutter
repair person may be able to fix them, or possibly replace them,
although I think parts for older Compur shutters are hard to come by.
---
From Camera Makers Mailing List:
I recently came across a great source for knobs, locking nuts, etc, both
in plastic and metal, which might be of interest to some in your camera
building projects. The sourece is MSC Industrial Supply Co, at
1-800-645-7270, (www.mscdirect.com), and they have an incredibly large
catalog (almost 5,000 pages) with many tools and supplies, including
approximatley 25 pages of knobs of various types. The catalog is also
available on CD-ROM.
They accept small orders with payment by credit card and ship incredibly
fast.
The only problem I have had was that it took a long time to get their big
catalog after I initially requested it.
Sandy King
From Bronica Mailing List;
http://www.craigcamera.com/access.htm
I think you may have this listed already, but this guy sells replacement
bellows for old KOdak cameras like the 1a and the 3 from US$10. Great for
restoration.
[Ed. note: a "card trick" to fool the Rollei TLR without wasting
film...]
you wrote:
Joerg, where are you? If in the USA try Harry Fleenor at
OCEANSIDE CAMERA REPAIR
909 AVIATION BLVD. #4
MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266
hfleenor@beachnet.gen.ca.us 310-374-6506
http://www.jps.net/hfleenor/
Make sure you are threading correctly, between the rollers, as pointed
out by others. However, the shutter should be cocking even if the film is
not threaded right. When the crank is reversed to its stop you should be
able to trip the shutter. You should be able to do this with no film in
the camera. You can test the film wind and feeler. Make a test spool by
winding some masking tape onto one end of an empty spool. Put it in the
top of the camera so that the geared wheel is operated by the taped
section. The put a bit of business card between the rollers and close the
camera. It should winde and stop just as if there was film in it. You
might have to double over the card. You should be able to trip the shutter
and go on to the next "frame" until twelve "frames" are wound. If the
feeler is not adjusted right it may not feel some types of film and will
never stop, it thinks its looking at leader. The above test will indicate
if the feeler and winder are working at all.
There are some parts in the camera which can wear and need adjustment,
its unlikely its actually broken.
----
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001
An old toothbrush, barely dampened with Windex works better for me than a
Q tip. It gets into the nooks and crannies better.
"Mike" NEDSNAKE@email.msn.com wrote
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
downley@aol.com says...
Besides hints on cleaning, Porter's camera store also has a dry
lacquer stick of various colors that you just rub over the engraved
letters and then wipe away the excess. It works okay. You don't even
have to wait for it to dry to start using it.
http://www.Porters.com
I don't think it's one of their online selections, but it's in their
catalog.
--
[Ed. note: an eraser, another simple but effective tool...]
sethf@tiac.net (Seth Friedman)
wrote:
Clean the contacts of both the camera and lens carefully using a
white rubber eraser. If that doesn't fix it, it's off for repair.
---
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001
Kirk wrote:
Most camera-associated batteries (cells) are the alkaline type therefore
a little white vineagar, cotten swabes and much, much care. Avoid
dripping wet swabs. Clean up with distilled water and dry thoroughly.
dr bob.
From ROllei Mailing List;
Hello!
Which of these oils do you think is the best for use in compur shutters?
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/e_lubricants.htm
/Patric
From Rollei Mailing List:
Depends on whether it is natural or synthetic rubber. Natural rubber
respond well to vegetable oils like castor oil, but is destroyed by
petroleum products. Synthetic rubber responds well to petroleum products
and is not harmed by vegetable oils.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List;
Avoid Armorall at all costs. It contains substances which displace the
natural oils in the rubber. If it is then allowed to dry out it cracks
far worse than never having been treated in the first place.
Richard Urmonas
From Rollei Mailing List:
Richard, you are wrong. Armorall is a well respected chemical
product which helps to prevent oxygen and ozone derogation
of the rubber. I had considerable experience with it when working
on the designs for Surface Effect Ships which ride on a cushion of air
contained in large rubber "seals". We made many years of tests
which prooved that Armorall is very beneficial to rubber and
other polymers. I was a Materials & Process engineer on this
program and accrued lots of data to proove the efficacy of
Armorall.
Jerry Lehrer
...
[Ed. note: dial indicators are used to measure large format film holder
depth etc. etc.]
Not only are dial indicators wonderful things, but useable models are
available dirt cheap. For instance ENCO sells a comparator stand and .001"
dial indicator for $23! The comparator stand is used to hold the testpiece
& indicator for measurement.
...
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
elvis@chowtech.cuug.ab.ca wrote:
Snipping here. . .
The guage I use is a simple dial vernier micrometer of the sort sold
in hardware stores. It is a combination instrument, allowing
measurement of inside and outside dimensions and depth. The depth
measurement is by means of rod which extends from the end of the
scale.
I made a reference surface from a section of aluminum sheet. Mine is
from 1/4" aluminum. It is large enough to fit over the flat part of
the holder and has holes drilled in it at several locations for the
micrometer to extend through. I have two reference blocks, one for 4x5
and 5x7 holders, the other for 8x10. The block does not have to cover
the entire holder, it can be narrow but fit across the holder so that
it rests on the surface, this is the surface which locates the holder
in the camera.
The thickness of the sheet is measured accurately with the same
micrometer and subtracted from the depth reading. My micrometer has an
adjustment on the dial for making such corrections so the depth can be
read off the dial directly.
I measure with film in the holder. Since the film does not always
rest flat against the septum one must be able to see where the end of
the micrometer probe contacts the film.
Measure at the corners, at the center, and at a few points along
edges to find if the holder is warped.
Once measured holders are not likely to change for a long time.
ANSI Standards for film plane placement in sheet film cameras. In
inches.
Dimensions in inches.
Film thickness is 0.007 The above does not include
film thickness.
The reference surface is the front surface of the holder.
Because film can buckle its best to measure with film so that you
can see how its being held in place by the holder.
This is also a good time to check for light leaks. Use a flashlight.
Remove the dark slides and look through the holder with the loading
flap opened so that you can see right up the slot for the dark slide.
Shine a flashlight at it, you should see no leaked light.
---
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
"ArtFish" artfish@mediaone.net wrote:
My stuff snipped...
You can do with a section of "L" stock, its pretty rigid. The stock
is layed acros the holder and the measurement made along an edge,
which gives a reference surface for the depth gauge. Measure the
thickhess of the stock with the same micrometer so you can subtract it
from the measurement. This works about as well as the plate, I forgot
to include it in my previous post.
You can get this stuff any any hardware store which sells sheet
metal supplies.
---
From: "Wayne D" wdewitt@snip.net
I use a piece of 1/4" 8x10 plate glass with a bunch of holes drilled
through it in the center and radiating outward. I detach the camera back
and measure to the ground glass using a dial indicator depth micrometer
(purchase at Sears or hardware store). I then insert each filmholder into
the back and perform the same measurements adjusting for the .007" of the
film, which I do not insert. I see no value in attempting to interpret the
"lay" of the film when it's going to vary with the temperature, humidity,
position of the back, film used, method used to load, phase of the moon,
etc..., and besides if you come into contact with the film that's all
changed anyway. You would need to perform optical measurements with the
film inserted for it to have any validity.
Wayne
[Ed. note: Nail polish, anyone? ;-)]
Some years ago I was doing a commercial shoot with my 6006 outfit. I was
waist deep in water when the camera made a very weird clunk when I shot a
photo and stopped working completely. I had to finish the shoot with a
backup camera. When I had time I checked out the camera and what had
happened is that the screw which holds the reflex mirror to its backplate
had come loose, and the mirror was just flopping around loose inside the
camera. On the 6006 the mirror is held in by one screw which holds a
metal clip against the bottom of the mirror on one side. I found the clip
and the screw, put some clear nail polish on the screw courtesy of my
makeup artist, and reassembled the mirror. A Polaroid check revealed
focus was correct, and I continued working with it. The screw is still in
place today, about nine years later, so the clear nail polish is good for
this purpose!!
Unfortunately, all the photos shot before the mirror came loose were out
of focus because the mirror was not seated properly, so I lost most of the
morning's work and had to reshoot it. Probably the screw coming loose was
the fault of the commuter plane I had taken for part of my trip to the
location. Funny, but I also had a 3003 mirror come loose during a shoot
one time.
Bob
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
"Robert" robertdel@earthlink.net wrote:
I don't know of any site with detailed instructions for repairing
any shutter. I think there are reprinted repair manuals for Copal
shutters available. Try John S. Craig at http://www.craigcamera.com
and Petra Keller at htttp://www.camerabooks.com
Copal shutters are similar to Compur but enough different to require
specific instructions. I would not try getting into the thing without
having drawings showing how it goes together.
If no parts are broken repair is quite practical.
This is a somewhat unusual problem, it sounds like something is jamming
the speed cam, but only inspection will show what.
Although cleaning shutters is quite practical I think this goes
beyond that. I would advise sending this one to Steve Grimes unless
you consider it a junker and just want to learn about shutters.
http://www.skgrimes.com There are many on this group who will vouch
for him.
---
Go to a repair shop and you will be at a $100 or so. Maybe even more. It
is a 3 or 4 minute job to take care of this (I should not let the cat
out of the bag, as this will be covered in my new manual on the bodies
and lenses).
With a spanner wrench, remove the front and rear cells of the lens. Trip
the lens, such that you have the blades closed. I use Freon, but with
time I will have no more. Just use a electrical parts cleaner that comes
in a spray can, and that does not attack plastic. First put a generous
amount on the rear diaphragm blades and then blow off with an air gun.
Do the same with the front blades. Go back and do the same thing again
with the rear blades. After blowing off the last time, wind the shutter
and see that all is working OK. If not, you are not flooding the areas
with enough spray (you really have to flood the blades). This will take
care of the blade problem for you.
As an added benefit that I discovered by accident, in that you are
flooding this area, and the spray will work itself into the gear trains,
it will usually be a fast cure for a slow shutter as well. You kind of
get two things for the price of one.
Don't get suckered at some repair shop!
--
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Postscript:
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Vick Ko wrote:
We are talking the 150 C lens-no, there are no other parts to remove
before taking the cells out. On some of the other lenses, you will have
to take the serial number ring off first, before taking out the front
lens cell.
Yes, it is OK to do this yourself and there are no "gotchas". It is a
simple and fast repair.
Should have the other booklet done within the next couple of months. It
should have been done by now, but so many things keep coming up, that I
just have not had the time to get to it. The body section is done now,
the photo's are all taken for the lens section, so I just have to put it
all together and do some writing. As to price, I have not decided yet.
It should be priced higher than the film magazine booklet I sell, as
there will be a lot more information in it. Yet I do not want to price
it so high that people will shy away. I was thinking maybe $75.
The only other booklets I have on repair is the one for Hasselblad film
magazine repair which costs $60 plus the shipping of $5. I do have a 500
plus page manual that I occasionally sell, that I copied off directly
from the Hasselblad repair facility in Santa Monica at the time I had a
franchise for Hasselblad. But to be honest, it is more or less a lot of
exploded views and part numbers, which does not help a lot of people. It
does go into some real detail for the EL/ELM though. I sell this manual
for $295.
--
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
S Gardner wrote:
Just go to Micro-Tools www.micro-tools.com and order part number
T-132-34567. My catalog says it costs $60. They can also be had from
Calumet, but they do not come with all the tips.
--
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
From Rollei Mailing List:
you wrote:
Maybe. The Medalist uses a Supermatic shutter not much different than
the one used on Speed Graphic lenses. On those shutters the internal
workings are exposed when the front cell is unscrewed. You might try this.
If you can see the works you may be able to get a little lighter fluid in
there which may unstick it.
----
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
would you pass on the info about the dark slide gaskets?
kelly adams
WBERRY@dce.ksu.edu - 2/22/01 10:22 AM
I had my camera go over
shooting a senior at a waterfall. It landed on the bellows and jammed my
80CF so the focus ring woundn't turn. I took it home and looked it over
really good. it was easy to tell that the outer ring was shifted down a
bit. I uncocked the shutter and removed the mount plate screws on the
back Once the plate was gone i could see the "C" ring inside that held the
focusing part of the barell. I layed it down flat and saw it had been
shoved back a bit. Wit a soft ruber malled and a slime hardwood board I
lightly tapped and releveled the barell. The ring slipped back into place
and the focus element was freed up. I checked all functions and verified
the barell position was back in the rignt spot. Remounted the plate and I
was back in action. Took me 15 minutes and one narrow tip screw driver.
I have also been replacing my own dark slide gaskets, thanks to a detailed
guide. My cost was $20.00 for the gasket. Only tricky part is getting
the slide sprint lever just right. If you put it in wrong and don't clip
it just right you'll know.
Waldo Berry
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
I got the infor from this site:
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/hasselbladmagrepair.html
Waldo
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Sorry, I should have posted the entire messgae. I have copied it into
this message bellow (it is from a post last year):
There have been so many inquiries about this booklet that I have written
about the Hasselblad magazine repair, that I have decided to make a
special offer on it. As I have mentioned to a few people, I have
intended to put up a special price to those in this group for some time
now, but just have not had the time. Well, with all the emails this
morning, I am taking the time. You can find the details on the booklet
at this web page
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/hasselbladmagrepair.html
Forget what it says about the asking price. I have sold many of these
booklets at the full asking price, but I am making a special 45 day
offer for the entire booklet (which will include the changing of an A12
to a A24-I should also mention that the A12 to A24 conversion will also
apply to changing an A16 to a A32 film magazine at full factory specs).
The special offer is $60 for the entire works, plus $3.20 for 2 day
mail. I know this is not an advertising forum, but all I am trying to do
is help people save a buck on the film magazine repairs. The only reason
I wrote this book, is that I saw so many people being taken advantage of
by the repair shops (especially so called Hasselblad factory repair).
For any of those that want to order or intend to order, I would
appreciate it if they would send me their complete mailing address such
that I can have the package addressed and ready to go. This way it will
go out the same day check or money order is received. I try very hard to
move things out as fast as possible, and treat people like I like to be
treated, so the above will help in this effort. My email address is
below.
Thanks much,
Dick Werner
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
From Rollei Mailing List;
...
Summers Optical sells optical cements of several kinds. The specs are on
line at:
http://www.emsdiasum.com/Summers/optical/cements/msds/default.html
I use the standard binary cement. It stays liquid for long enough to do
several lenses or fix mistakes if the cement hasn't been cured. It cures
at 150F in about an hour and is actually much easier to use than Canada
Balsam.
----
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
My name is Jim Gumm and I am a photographer. I just want to tell the list
that I saved a bundle of money yesterday. I repaired some of my Hasselblad
'c' lenses. Two of them had dust on the inner elements and one other a 40
'c' had a loose barrel. One of them, the 80, had a layer of haze between
the groups that would definitely affect image quality. I purchased a
spanner from Fargo, and, thanks to a gentleman by the name of Mr. Dick
Werner, who told me what to do, I opened these lenses and cleaned them
(the 40 required just a twist on the retaining ring by hand!).
I have been quoted about $125 each to clean these and repair the 40. It is
a 15 minute job.
That means Hasselblad repairmen make about $600 per hour! I am fairly good
with my hands, but most any individual should be able to accomplish these
jobs. I is just great to see these lenses repaired, as I have been
bothered by them for months. My next task is to refinish the barrel on the
40, as it is a bit scarred up. So, to those so inclined, don't be afraid
to clean or make minor repairs on your lenses, as it is not that
difficult. However, I will not be responsible for any repair attempted
because of this post.
Jim Gumm
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
I had my camera go over shooting a senior at a waterfall. It landed on
the bellows and jammed my 80CF so the focus ring woundn't turn. I took it
home and looked it over really good. it was easy to tell that the outer
ring was shifted down a bit. I uncocked the shutter and removed the mount
plate screws on the back Once the plate was gone i could see the "C" ring
inside that held the focusing part of the barell. I layed it down flat
and saw it had been shoved back a bit. Wit a soft ruber malled and a
slime hardwood board I lightly tapped and releveled the barell. The ring
slipped back into place and the focus element was freed up. I checked all
functions and verified the barell position was back in the rignt spot.
Remounted the plate and I was back in action. Took me 15 minutes and one
narrow tip screw driver. I have also been replacing my own dark slide
gaskets, thanks to a detailed guide. My cost was $20.00 for the gasket.
Only tricky part is getting the slide sprint lever just right. If you put
it in wrong and don't clip it just right you'll know.
Waldo Berry
From: flexaret2@aol.com (FLEXARET2)
This is a simple repair. The problem is oil on the blades.
You need cotton swaps with cardboard or wooden sticks and a solvent -
lighter fluid or motion picture film cleaner (ie Ecco 1500). Alcohol won't
do. Acetone won't do.
You just have to clean the oil off the blades.
You may be able to remove the rear camera mount and remove the back
elements to get to the blades and clean them from the one side only.
Sometimes working from one side only it is also possible to clean the
front of the blades too by - bending the front of the cotton swab to a
right angle - putting solvent on the swab- putting this into the center of
the iris and stopping down to f11 or so and turning the swap - that way
you can clean the front of the blades without opening the front of the
lens. You may mess up the lens elements - but you can clean them with
regular rubbing alcohol on clean cotton swabs.
Opening the front of the lens may be a problem as some of these require a
rubber pressure tool to get off the front ring as they have no spanner
notches.
Damaging the lens in opening it is the greatest problem.
As for decentering - you won't do that.
- Sam Sherman
From: fotoralf@gmx.de (Ralf R. Radermacher)
FLEXARET2
Thanks a lot for the encouragement, Sam.
Took about two hours and the lens is like new, again. Wouldn't have
thought that this is _so_ easy to do.
Will take it ouside, first thing tomorrow, and find out how good it is.
Cheers,
--
From Minolta Mailing List:
Try www.micro-tools.com, that's Fargo Enterprises and they have the
foam in several thicknesses and sizes. Or for a really cheap solution
go to WalMart and look for Foamies in their craft department. This is
an adhesive backed black foam like material used in floral crafts.
Good thickness for camera seals. And BTW, you can measure the old
foam very accurately using an engineers compass.One with the little
wheel between the legs works best.
Jack Kirkhuff
[Ed. note: what to do if you de-tint a rangefinder window?..]
Ideas:
1) red cellophane over the rangefinder (an old Leica trick)
2) coloured filter material - easiest is to cut a gelatin filter;
hardest is to cut a glass filter
Good luck
[Ed.note: Thanks to Wai Yu for sharing these tips!...]
Hi, Thanks for the information, after soaking it for two weeks in acetone.
I use my finger nail just scrap off the tough cement without scratching
the lens. May not be the scientific way but it works.
Now my job is to order cement UV 74 from Summers and try putting it
together.
Regards
Wai Yu
...
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001
Roland wrote:
One of the key sources for small fasteners; 00-90 and up metal screws
and nuts, #0 and up brass wood screws, some metrics in small sizes is
Microfasteners in Flemington, New Jersey.
Website is: http://www.microfasteners.com
Regards,
Marv
From CameraMakers Mailing List;
.....
Roseanne,
I don't have a clear concept of the piece you need, but if it's made
out of spring steel, try looking at http://www.smallparts.com,
http://www.mcmaster.com/ or http://www.reidtool.com. These sites
have all kinds of parts. You may end up having to manufacture
your own piece, but the above places have the raw materials to
make just about anything. I know of other places, but those
companies are on my PC at home. Let me know if you need more
places to look, and I'll round those up as well.
Dave Robertson
[Ed. note: for general info - caveat repairer!]
Vick Ko vick.ko@sympatico.ca wrote:
>I have become the new guardian of a Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16.
>It is in "WOW" condition cosmetically, but needs a bit of exercise
>to get its muscle tone back.
>
>These are quite beautiful cameras, and the negatives are stunning.
>
>
>My questions are:
>
>1) does anyone know of sources of information on disassembly &
> cleaning of this camera?
None that I know of (I have one completely disassembled on my bench,
can answer your questions).
Looking from the rear, one is under the leather at the left end. One
is the screw in the middle of the shoe, and the third is under the film
frame counter (remove the two screws and lift it off with the spring plate
underneath)
Probably the worst ones are on the back. The cause is corrosion buildup
on the surface of the leather, and if you can lift the leather off,
you'll find no corrosion on the metal---it's all reaction from leather
tanning chemicals. To get the back off, shove the hinge pin up and pull
it out.
This is the way it is designed. I assume you have the Compur Rapid
shutter (last units had Synchro-Compur.)
Run the focus all the way out, and remove the screws holding the ring
to the lens. Remove the four screws on the front bezel plate (two on
top, two on flanges on front). To get the shutter apart, you have to
take the lens assembly off the camera (ring inside the bellows).
focus gears are on a plate behind the bezel, held on by 4 screws, but
the shutter splits from the iris by removing screws from the back. Note
that when you split the shutter, the blades are sitting loose when you
pull off the iris assembly. To get the front cover off the shutter,
you will need a small pin spanner wrench to rotate the three pins at
the center of the plate until the flats line up with the center ring.
I would suggest that you not take the shutter apart unless you have
instructions for getting it back together. Also, the winder mechanism
and release interlock is a bit tricky to reassemble, and there is a
differential gear that is easy to strip under the winder knob.
You'll disengage the rangefinder gears when you take the front off,
so be prepared to re-time the rangefinder if you take it apart.
The fold-out and cover is in a carriage that is held in by four screws.
Two are obvious on top. There are two that match on the bottom, under
the decorative plate. This is held on by 9 little screws (3 at each
end, 3 around the tripod mount) and you will have to get the leather
all the way off to get to them. The bellows back plate is held in
by the frame, and you will have to replace the seals if you remove
it.
....
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
Henry van Cleef wrote:
That differential gear is made of soft brass. It can strip out by just
looking at it (I have had to replace two), and replacements are
impossible to find. Be very, very careful with the winding mechanism on
all of the Zeiss folders. Best left to a professional.
Regards,
Marv
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
"Nandakumar Sankaran" TheNandakumars@hotmail.com wrote:
I don't like to use WD-40 for anything. For degreasing use alcohol
or lighter fluid. For the most part cleaning can be done with a cloth
dampened with diswashing detergent in water or just plain water.
Lubrication depends on what is being lubricated. Many surfaces
really do not need any lubrication. Some sliding surfaces need a very
light grease like Lubriplate or a little white Lithium grease.
A few things may need oiling. Light sewing machine oil is fine for
most. You want non-gumming oil.
Again, very few things on a view camera need to be lubricated.
Lubricating where its not needed just collects dust.
Plain glass cleaner will work on the smooth side for routine use.
If the ground glass is dirty take it out and clean it with warm water
and diswashing detergent. Lens cleaner won't hurt anything but is too
expensive and not necessary. A light film of oil sometimes forms on
ground glass causing a surprizing amount of dimming. The degergent in
water will take if off.
If the bellows are leather and in good condition clean them with
saddle soap. Cream leather treatment may help if they are starting to
get crisp. Neat's Foot Oil can help but must be applied sparingly
since it can soak throught the thin leather and soften up the
stiffeners, which are made of cardboard in most bellows.
Leather which has started to rot can't be saved and must be
replaced.
However, this camera most likely has bellows made of synthetic
material of some sort. This generally outlasts leather and needs no
care beyond wiping with a damp cloth every so often to keep it clean.
While there are many who recommend Armor-All or similar plastic
sprays I am skeptical about them and avoid them.
A good camera case of some sort is ideal but I suspect you could
find something cheaper than the Toyo cases in a luggage shop.
For long term storage a large sealable plastic bag is helpful.
I'm sure others will have better suggestions than mine about this.
---
From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Old lenses seem to aquire an oily / grubby deposit over time. This
greatly increases the force required to open / close them. It can also be
reflective reducing contrast.
More commonly this is an issue for shutter blades as the shutter may not
be able to open / close the blades.
Cleaning is usually straightforward unless someone has applied so much
force that they have damaged something. The main issue is the amount of
labour required to get inside the lens that far. This can be more than
the camera / lens is worth.
Richard.
From Classic 35mm Compact Mailing List;
I own several C35's and similar cameras. On approx. 50% the meter did not
work. But it is repairable. Remove the tiny screws of the bottom cover,
and the two screws on the bottom of the battery holder. I am almost sure
that the wire of the bottom contact is broken.
To resolder it, pull out the leftovers as far as possible, and strip the
wire for a few millimeters (do not tear it, it is very thin). Try to put
some solder tin on the wire. This might be difficult, since often it is
very corroded, and you may have to use extra flux paste.
If the wire is long enough, resolder it to the button contact. If not,
solder a piece of thin wire to it, and insulate the solder point with
(heat-shrinkable) isolating hose. When rearranging the battery holder,
glue the wire to one of the corners of the body. When it touches the
disc-like metal piece inside, the shutter operation will be disturbed.
Winfried
From Camera Makers Mailing List:
Hi Kelvin,
Although this won't help with the Triotar, you might consider in the
future if you can "lighten up" an old helicoid by carefully working some
light oil or solvent/oil combination into it. As you probably know,
grease consists of oil in a soap-like base. With time, the oil separates
from the base and leaves a heavy sludge of dried base in the joint.
Sometimes, you can rejuvenate the base somewhat by applying a light oil
and working the parts back and forth to stir the oil into the sludge,
using Q-tips to remove any excess that appears. Even if the result isn't
perfect, it's often satisfactory.
Bob Stoddard
From Russian Camera Mailing List;
Unfortunately, you need to mark the pieces when you disassemble them. I
use a diamond-tip scribe to make small alignment marks on the parts so I
can put them back together. Without doing that when you disassemble you
just have to put it all back by trial and error, and that can take
forever.
Bob Shell
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List:
As I saw interest in Contax shutter tapes I can offer a shutter tape that
I special ordered and tried successfully for replacing Contax II / III and
Kiev.
I installed this tapes in several cameras of my own and in some friend's
ones with great results from at least three years up to now. I have also
used this tapes in other cameras like Leicas, russian Leica copies and
also japanese ones.
I can offer it at $ 5 the meter including shipping by air mail.
Hope it helps.
Please contact me off list at joseramon@elsitio.net
Jose
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List;
For about 17 years now, I have been restringing Contax
shutters with ordinary 1/8" (3mm) ribbon material that
I buy from whatever local fabric store is handy. It
is best to try to get a roll that's a little on the
thin side, and you have to taper the end slightly to
get it started into the slot in the upper curtain (I
do NOT modify the slot), but it has worked perfectly.
I'm still using the first camera I did in 1984, and I
have never had a return on any of the dozens that I've
done since. I'm sure a perfect match for the thinner
Zeiss Ikon tape would be better, but functionally it
doesn't matter. I have posted the entire procedure
here:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-29.html
rick :)=
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List:
Thanks to all of you guys who contributed to the solution of my shutter
tape problem.
I e-mailed Warren about what to do to get some of his incoming tape, but
have not heard back from him yet.
Just out of curiosity, I stopped into the local Walmart at lunchtime and
checked the sewing and crafts areas. Sure 'nuff, they had 3mm white tape
that appears to be thin enough enough to work. I'll open one up and see
how it fits the slots tonight.
Rick, that's a darn nice site that you have.
...
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List;
To All -
Pat was kind enough to prototype samples of the material along with me for
the Contax II/III. There were several different samples we looked at an I
discounted any radically different ribbon.
It was important not to use rayon or nylon, because they tend to stretch
and a shutter with that material will need to have the shutter adjusted
within a short time. I've been repairing these cameras for over 30 years
and my supplies and suppliers have been dying off. My long time mentor,
Johann Damm passed away a few years back and he left no trail on where to
get the "stuff". I plan on making it easy, soon.
Here is where we are:
1. The material was excellent, it is made from silk and has the right
strength and thickness. I wanted to widen it by .2 of a mm before going to
production. So, my estimate of June is now July-August. If you are
interested let me know.
2. I plan on tackling the IIa/IIIa next. But I'd like to deliver a
successful first batch.
As many of you know meter cells are back in stock. I plan on looking into
stocking calf skins for coverings as well.
This note is in response to Charlies note. If it is in appropriate do not
post.
Warren
http://www.contaxstore.com
From Zeiss Interest Group mailing list:
Javier:
Some of the fabric store material will work, I've tested numerous samples
that I bought in various shops in Manhattan. I don't know how long it
will last, none of it seems to hold up as well as material designed for
the purpose. The only exception has been a sample that a list member sent
me from Argentina, and that has worked perfectly - and I've not been able
to find the same material here. In any case, you need something with a
very fine weave; otherwise it will fray badly as it passes through the
guide slots in the lower curtain. Not only will it eventually break, but
all those little "hairs" that fray off will get into the escapement gears
and make a mess.
It all looks pretty much the same, but there are lots of different types
of this material around and some work much better than others. If you
just want to get the camera going again, you could try some and then
replace it with the "good stuff" when it becomes available. After
installation, before "closing-up," operate the shutter a couple of hundred
times and then check the tapes. If they're not too bad, the camera should
work fine for a good while.
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List;
Hi again Javier:
The ribbon that I use is Offray, 100% polyester, in 1/8" (3mm)
width. It comes in spools about 3 inches in diameter, holding 10
yards per spool. I bring a dial caliper into the store with me and
try to get the thinnest I can find, preferably in a light color or
white (in case the dye increases the friction of the material),
though I've used several colors successfully. I don't know of any
synthetic material that's as strong as silk, but I have never managed
to wear one of these ribbons out in a Contax and I don't know anyone
who has. I would not file the slots in the shutter though: if you
can get proper silk tapes inthe future, it would be a shame to have
messed the shutter up. Besides, it's never been necessary.
I have a .jpg of the spools, but I don't see anyplace to post an
image here. Am I missing something?
rick :)=
From Zeiss Interest Group Mailing List;
Okay, my last post on the subject: a picture of the ribbon spools is
at
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/spools.jpg
Best of luck with whatever approach you decide to take....
rick :)=
From Rollei Mailing List;
you wrote:
I suspect it should go to someone who works on lenses both the get the
bug out and to clean up anything the bug left behind (they have metabolism
after all) beside its lovely self.
However, check on front and back for retaining rings. Often theses must
be removed with a friction tool make of a tube of the right diameter with
the end covered with double stick tape or a washer of sticky rubber.
Sometimes the rings have slots for a spanner type wrench. Often the
friction tool will work on these too and lessens the chance of damage if
it slips.
Barrel lenses with focusing mecanisms can be tricky to disassemble and
thowe with automatic or pre-set diaphragms even more so. I mostly do my
own work but would hesitate to take this on without at least drawings.
I wonder if Marflex handles these.
Now, how did the bug get inside? If it hatched out there how did the egg
get inside?
----
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Hi,
well, there is such a mailing list:
camera-repair@lists.cdegroot.com
It doesn't have very much traffic, but then it started out not long ago.
Best,
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Mikhail Konovalov wrote:
There's camera-repair on yahoo groups too. Seven messages in the past
month and all about a Nikon FE. I'd certainly like to see an active forum
on repairs and I hope camera-fix is more successful.
Regards,
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
There is one at Cahuenga.org
It's
photo-tech@cahuenga.org
Javier
From Russian Camera Mailing List;
BTW you can send subscribe request to
photo-tech-request@cahuenga.org
See Ya
From Camera Makers Mailing List:
Ronson lighter fluid. I've used Vaseline for the grease. Don't laugh.
It works pretty well. Great on camera body leather too.
Gene
FredARose@aol.com wrote:
From Kiev 88 Mailing List;
Rich,
To lubricate the K88 shutter - remove the lens- look in the front mouth of
the camera and to your lower left is a sandwich of two large gears stacked
one on top of the other. If you have a k88cm you will need to remove one
screw on the camera floor and a small bottom cover.
Get some very light oil in a pin point injection oiler - put one small
drop into the center of the sandwich of the two gears and on into the
center of the top gear. Wind and release the shutter 100 times. The camera
will wind smoother and the shutter will release smoother and more evenly
expose the film.
Re- old K88 backs - some are in need of lubing and opening (I don't do
this) and have rough gears. A back jams up and jams up the gearing and
breaks the camera. Be careful with backs.
Best,
Sam Sherman
...
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
I had the same problem with a 50mm blad lens.You really need to take it to
a lens repair man to have it accessed and cleaned.If your lucky they will
be able to clean the surfaces and disinfect them to stop it happening
again. If not the lens may be a write off or you may be able to get the
lens polished.The problem is if the fungus has etched the surface of the
glass. I had a quote of about o30 to clean mine.
Typically the repair man will unscrew the lens group,front and back with a
lens wrench. (Similar to removing a sparkplug but the risk higher.) Clean
the fungus off with lens tissue and IPA Isopropalcohol? and refit.Simple
if your lucky and the fungus has not gone between the optics.I understand
some people use a mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide plus water but I
have not any definite info on that one.
I ended up doing my own which went fine but wouldn't particularly
reccomend it as the possibility of scratching the lens is fairly high
especially without the correct tools.You can get the tools from
www.micro-tools.com
I hope this helps and when you see you repair man give you enough info to
know roughly what's about.
ian
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Under the counter dial is a pair of stacked disks called a dividing plate.
Both sets of disks have slots cut in them. The upper disk is just a hair
larger then the lower one so as you crank the body the two disks rotate
with the counter and when the slots line up a lever (wind stop lever)
drops into both disks stopping the film at frame # 1, a clutch allows you
to complete the wind stroke on the body. When you press the release
(assuming you have removed the slide) a pin is pushed by the body striking
the wind stop lever in the insert which allows you to advance to the next
frame or slot. I hope this IS clearer than mud. lol
Mike
john@coedana.plus.com wrote
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001
egclayton@msn.com (Edward Clayton) wrote:
I wouldn't use duct tape either. Gaffer tape works pretty well. Many
people think they are the same thing. Actually, they are quite
diffenent. Duct tape has an adhesive which migrates and is very messy.
Gaffer tape is meant to come off again without doing a lot of damage
to whatevr its stuck to. The backing is also different. Duct tape is
meant for wrapping air ducts.
Calumet Photo sells rolls of the real thing for film holder hinges
It is a sort of self adhesive fake leather. Calumet has a web site or
you can order from 1 800 CALUMET (in the US).
---
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001
You probably already know this but, just in case: the tape doesn't
function to keep light out, it's just a hinge to allow you to load the
film and hold the dark slides in place. So AFAIK any tape can be used
though some obviously will look better, last longer, etc. etc. I use a 3M
brand black tape that I buy at Home Depot.
"Richard Davis" drdagor@hotmail.com wrote
From Camera Makers List:
Hi Fred:
I clean leaf shutters with ether. It is getting harder
to find because it is abusable. I have an old
pharmacist friend that knows I use it only for
cleaning, perhaps you can find a pharmacist too. Ether
dries leaving virtually NOTHING on the blades or
mechanism.
I lube ONLY the pivot points of the leaves not the
leaves themselves. I use a watch oiler (A pen like
device with a needle like plunger which dispenses tiny
drops one at a time. Be very careful not to over do
the oiling. You will have far more problems from too
much oil than from too little. Try hard to oil only
the pivot and not have any oil gloop onto the blades
or elsewhere. I use an exceedingly light oil available
from jewelers suppliers for use in wrist watches.
Good luck
Barry
From Camera Makers List:
I agree, for some things Vaseline is great! It lasts a
very very long time. I have some focusing helicals I
lubed with Vaseline more than 20 years ago (Yes, they
are used regularly) and there is no sign of it needing
to be replaced.
Barry
Gene Johnson genej2@home.com wrote:
From Camera Repair Mailing List;
I have a really strong, substantial one which I got from Edmund
Scientific. It has proven to be essential when working on larger diameter
lenses.
Bob
From Camera Repair List:
you wrote:
The problem isn't so much a matter of oil running onto the blades (there
shouldn't be any oil in the first place), but the light volatiles
evaporating from the grease, then condensing on the rest of the lens
(glass, blades, etc.)
Cool storage should prevent that, since it's promoted by repeated
heating/cooling cycles. Cool *dry* storage should hamper fungus formation
too.
From Camera Repair Mailing List;
Hi
Leaks usually occur where the hinge and the latches of the door are.
You can use the plush/velvet 'lips' from a used 35mm film casette.
They can be glued with ordinary "Elmer's" white glue.
There is also some yarn-like material glued to the parts where the door
joins the body - if this is worn too, they can be stripped and replaced
with ordinary black knitting yarn (choose a thin one, :) )
Jay
From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Loctite make a remover for their super glue. It works like a miracle on =
their own stuff, but maybe it can attack other glues too, the =
instruction says it will, but I have not tried. As with all the other =
stuff suggested: read the instructions, and don't get it anywhere you =
don't need it...
Ingemar Lindahl
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Dave Preece
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000
Henk & Marga Jamin skrev:
It depends a little on what you put into "life span" here. Many CdS cells
were glued onto the prism, using a glue that got less opaque with age.
Technically, the cell might be serviceable and just need a reglueing, but
it will look very much like a old, worn cell, gradually deteriorating.
I know Minolta can have this problem on old SRT-101's, for example. One
minor problem is that if they need reglueing, they also need to be pryed
off the prism and cleaned, which is a risk.
--
From Leica Mailing List
John Collier wrote:
The tool is very very tiny and will fit through the screw hole. All M
cameras have adjustable vertical alignment through a hole in the front,
between the windows, whether covered by a screw or a dot.
Jim
From Leica Mailing List
You can do the M4-2 yourself. It's under the screw between the RF windows.
Be gentle, a little turn goes a long way.
Jim
Julian Thomas wrote:
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001
Hi Peter
As you would have read from Maizenberg's book, most of the common tools
(screwdrivers, pliers, forceps) are readily available from watch
repairist's suppliers. Some of the tools like spanners ("keys") can be
fabricated.
I've been able to fix (reset rfs, replace shutter curtains, &c.;) Zorki-1
and FED-1 and FED-2, rfs and even a Zenit C slr using nothing but tools I
bought from hardware or tool shops. Most of the work is easy -
understanding the book's syntax is often harder- and maybe the most
difficult aspect of repair work :)
There is one tool described there - the measuring depth gauge to determine
working distances - which appears to be difficult to find. I found that
vernier calipers (calibrated to at least 0.02mm) work as well for this
purpose.
Jay
...
From Camera Repair Mailing List:
Go to a gun store and ask for a small bottle of "Break Free CLP". It's the
best penetrating oil on the planet.
you wrote:
The patient use of acetone didn't work?
(I now swear by WD40. I just unstuck an outdoor plumbing connection that
was rusted shut. Kept soaking it with WD40 for 3 days and finally it gave
way, rather easily. Penetrating indeed.)
Les
----- Original Message -----
Hi folks
I've taken the suggestion of using white vinegar, with
baking soda... and soaking it for a few hours. No luck -
the battery cover on my pentax SP will still not come off.
I hand-drilled two tiny holes to fit my spanner wrench...
and guess what ... the wrench is now broken.
How long should I be using the white vinegar?
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001
Don -
Shouldn't the WooHoo be YAHOO (remember where this group is hosted).
TT -
I have used "Correction Fluid Thinner" (available at Staples, Office
Depot etc) which is really Trichloroethane to clean off hard to
remove stains etc from the chrome parts of cameras; it's also good to
use to remove fungus from lens elements.
- Ray Reese (lives in Riverside but WORKS in Orange County)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001
Tried bending the catches a bit? Most loose latches are due to deformed
parts.
camera-fix@yahoogroups.com wrote:
From hasselblad mailing list:
Michael Waldron wrote:
Stick your fingernail under one corner of the leather and pull the
leather off. On the side plate, you will see 3 screws. Tighten them and
put the leather back on. Forget the overpriced hatchet repair people.
--
From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Roland, I first came across it in Ed Romney's "Basic Training" text. I
have it before me and will abstract for you:
The SLR you use to view the target on the subject camera's focal plane is,
ideally, equipped with a moderate (say, 135) tele lens and split-rfdr
viewscreen. Use a camera and lens you know to be of accurate focus at
infinity. Keep it at its widest aperture.
Put the subject camera on a tripod facing a bright source of light, such
as a window. Set it so the shutter is open (T if you have it, B with a
locking cable release cable otherwise) and the mirror up. Set the subject
lens at infinity. You do not have to focus on anything in particular.
Romney notes you could use a ground glass on the subject focal plane, but
says it works better and is a lot brighter if you use plain glass. Cut a
piece 35mm wide to fit on the inner pair of film rails (not the outer pair
of rails which mate with the pressure plate), and long enough that it
extends well into the film-cassette wells, so you can hold it in place
with a pair of rubber bands around the camera body, with something to shim
the glass into place (folded paper?), thus avoiding tape residue.
With a carbide scribe, make a small cross in about the middle of the
image, and make horizontal lines approximately parallel to the film rails
at the top and bottom of the image area, and vertical lines at the sides
of the film area. I'll try some ASCII art to make this clearer:
(If you receive HTML and the diagram is gibbled, select it and change the
font to a monospaced font.)
What you're doing is giving yourself reference marks at the image center
and edges. Obviously, a quick 'n dirty test could dispense with the glass
and use pencil or knife marks on scotch tape, if you could be sure the
tape was truly flat on the film plane. A piece of Mylar or clear 35mm film
would work, again if flatness was assured.
Fasten the glass marked-side-in on the film plane.
Now step back (a few feet if you're using a 135mm lens -- the distance
isn't critical) and, through the viewing camera, look at the subject
camera's film plane.
Let's say your light source is a window (it doesn't have to be). If you
focus on the subject camera's film plane, you'll see the subject camera in
focus and everything outside the window, trees and landscape etc. will be
out of focus. This is, of course, perfectly normal and what you would
expect.
But if you focus the viewing lens at infinity, then everything outside the
window will come into focus and the subject camera back will be blurry,
again what you would expect. And -- here's the magic -- inside the subject
lens barrel you'll see a giant magnified image of the lines you scratched
in the glass. Move closer and farther from the subject camera, and more or
less of the scribed glass is visible as the image size changes. If either
camera is not at correct infinity focus, the lines will be blurry. But if
both are set correctly, they'll be extremely sharp.
Romney and others say it's an extraordinarily sensitive test, capable of
far more accuracy than necessary in any practical camera.
He also backsights into the subject camera's finder with the mirror down
to verify mirror and finder screen alignment, including the accuracy of
the finder screen's rangefinder spot if it has one.
Fascinating!
David Foy
P.S. Good old Ed also notes the traditional subject for testing infinity
is a distant steeple, TV antenna, a street light at night, or reflections
on auto chrome or window glass, more than 300 feet away, when projected on
fine ground glass, examined with a 10x or greater loupe. He suggests an
old 25mm movie lens as a loupe for this purpose. The guy really is a gold
mine of information.
...
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001
Hi Josef
Thomas Tomosy described how spanner tools or keys can be fashioned from
small-point pliers in his "Leica" repair book. I haven't his first two
books, so I couldn't say if he mentioned this there. The process is
simple- the plier's points are filed down and heated to reshape them.
Another author, Maizenberg (Russian Camera Repair) wrote that such keys
can be milled from metal sheets- widths are determined by the span of the
ring or lock they are to be used on, and milled out in a concave shape.
The illustrations in these books describe the method better - if you'r
interested, I could send you a scan.
Jay
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001
you wrote:
If the slowness is caused by stuff like oxides formed on metal surfaces,
creating friction, then it will often resolve itself by repeatedly working
the mechanism. But, is not a good idea if the slowness is caused by oil on
the blades (generally caused by repeated heat/cool cycles driving the
volatiles out of the helicoid grease, into the air, and onto everything
else, including shutter and diaphram blades, and inner glass surfaces).
If the mechanism is slowed down because of oil, continued working of the
mechanism will not resolve the problem (other than for a very short time,
and then, only if there is a very small amount of oil present), and more
importantly, can cause serious damage to the mechanisms themselves. This
is because the gear escapements and driving parts (such as the tiny pins
pressed into the blades) are designed with the idea that nothing but
inertia would be "resisting" the force transmitted to the blades. When
they have to fight against the dramatic resistance caused by an oil-damped
blade assembly, they will be subject to stresses far beyond their design
specs. When repeatedly subject to such stresses, parts failure is not
uncommon.
In the "olden days" (pre-Rio accord), the best stuff in the world for
cleaning shutters and diaphrams was "Freon TF". It was not a refrigerant.
It was a liquid solvent that would evaporate very quickly, and leave no
residues of its own whatsoever. I say "of its own," because any gunk that
it dissolves *will* be redeposited if it's not fully washed away, with
none of the "dirty" solvent remaining in place. (BTW, TF was completely
safe to plastics, rubber, etc. It only attacked oils, greases, and dirt.)
In practice, this meant "remove the glass, then spray the hell out of the
shutter from several angles, then wait a few seconds for the *clean*
solvent to evaporate, then add whatever miniscule drops of oil are
required in the particular shutter."
It made some of the most miserable work imaginable ridiculously easy.
Now, you can't get it anymore. There is a reasonably similar chemical
currently available, which goes by the generic name of "Contact Cleaner
II". Freon TF was not cheap, but compared to CCII, it was a freebie.
CCII is, from what I gathered reading a label, not nearly as safe as TF,
but that's "progress" for ya.
From Camera Fixing List;
I've cleaned shutters with lighter fluid before. I've never cleaned
diaphragm blades, though. One thing I remember about lens diaphragms is
that they are less likely to have problems if you keep the lens standing
on end so the diaphragm will be horizontal. That way oil is less likely to
run down them.
...
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001
One of the lens designers at Schneider told me to use acetone on stubborn
staining on optical glass. It's what they use for final cleaning. But he
also suggested using only reagent grade since the stuff from the hardware
store might contain too many impurities. You have to get reagent grade
from a chemical supply house.
Bob
From Camera Fixing List:
Kelvin;
I have repaired a few of the meters and have a neat fix for you. If
you find the variable resistor (adjusts the meter) to be faulty it may be
hard to replace. Pentax used 3 different ones, color coded red, white and
blue, First determine where the break is in the circut. You can do this
using a meter (set to measure resistance). Place one probe at the solder
joint and move the other probe alng the carbon strip, resistance should
change. If you show no resistance move to the other end. Generaly the
break in the circut will be one end or the other. After you determine
which end is faulty use a toothpic or? to place a small drop of super glue
at the break. While it is still wet use a soft lead pencil andfill in the
break you can use a fair ammount of preasure the fix should have a powdery
look. If it does not work the first time try again using a little more
preasure. after it dries check again with the meter if it shows nearly
zero resistance with the probes very close together , It's fixed! This
will effect the overall value of the resistor but not so much that it
won't adjust. might not hurt to cover the repaired area (I like nail
polish) I have a Spotmatic I did this to nearly ten years ago the meter
functions fine and I have never had the top off since Still takes an
excellent picture.
Glad the hot water trick worked!
Everett
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001
hypobob@pacbell.net says...
Bob,
Contact cement. Apply thinly to both surfaces. Let dry for about five
minutes. Carefully position the pieces to be assembled without allowing
them to touch. When they are properly aligned, press them together. It
makes a pretty permanent bond, so long as both surfaces are clean before
glueing.
Best regards,
Stew
From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
I find that a cotton bud dipped in a little white vinegar works well too.
Sometimes better than spirit.
----- Original Message -----
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001
John;
If starting fluid is available in your area (Ether at most auto
parts stores) remove the front elements and "Drown the diaphram with it".
Keep working the apature open and closed while it is wet. If you think
that you have used too much "that's a good start". Let the lens dry out
and try the apature again, if it is still sluggish repeat the process!
This may take several trys! Once you get everything moving a little
powdered graphite in some Naptha or lighter fluid will work well to lube
it. Then open the apature fully and clean the inside of the back element
with alcohol on a cotton swab. Check to make shure there is nothing that
looks like dirt or dust on on the back element.
Clean the front element carefully and install it back in the lens.
Maybe I got ahead here and should have asked if you have the tools
and knowledge to take the lens apart. That is not a slam, just a question.
I will be glad to help any way I can, if you need help getting this done
there are lots of people (smarter than me) here!
Everett
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001
For those of you who have problems with paint-filled letters where
the paint has gone, or in my case .. "floated away" in a solvent.
From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
Hi friend!
The interesting approach to an old task, but Your method is not exact
enough. Sorry, it is wrong.
Look, please, here
1) very simple way http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/text-shutter.html by Andrew
Davidhazy.
BTW same metod was described still in february issue ( p.43) of the
magazin "Soviet Photo" in 1978 . The author is the engineer V. Kompaneizev
from Alma-Ata :-)
2) "Shutter Speed Tester for Photographers" by Robert Monaghan
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/shutterspeed.html
3) or How to Measure Shutter Speed using a Soundcard for $3:
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2131/shspeed.html
4) or http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/shutterspeedtester.htm
I wish success to You
Sincerely
Victor Helis, heli@inbox.ru
From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
An alternative is to test the shutter using a TV.
A TV image takes 1/60th of a second to display (1/50th for most areas
outside the US).
Take a picture of the TV screen at each speed (1/125, 1/250, 1/500,
1/1000, etc). Do this in the dark with just the TV on.
At high speeds you'll get a diagonal strip of exposed TV image. The
height of the strip relative to the full screen height gives the
exposure time.
For US TVs, there are about 250 lines of image in 1/60 of a second.
So, for example, for 1/1000 of a second, about 250*60/1000=15 lines of
TV scan should show vertically on the image.
I've used this to test several cameras and it works pretty well
(though the photo lab people tend to wonder about you).
This is probably more reliable than using the flash since at 1/60
flash sync the shutter is probably fully open for a bit les than 1/60
second (since the first shutter opens, flash is fired, then the second
shutter closes. It wouldn't surprise me if the flash triggers about
1/500 second before the second curtain, which would cause it to
trigger as the first curtain starts moving, resulting in a black
picture.
Obviously no technique of this sort is going to be really accurate,
but I'm told mechanical shutters are "in spec" if they're within
around 30-40% of the rated speed, so there's pretty wide tolerance
anyway.
From Camera Fixing Mailing List:
Kelvin, I've lost your email address again! I just posted a set of
sketches for replacing the shutter curtains in a Contax
S/D/F/Pentacon SLR on my web site at
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-87.html.
If you have any trouble getting into it, email me and I'll email you
the files.
rick :)=
From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
That's a site I hadn't found yet... Thanks!
Here are some more that I found:
http://www.misty.com/people/don/strobtop.html
I'll try the re-forming technique on the ones that I think will be worth
the effort.
My next attempts after getting a couple of these working are:
Remote sensor
TTL conversion of non-TTL flash
This is almost as much fun as hacking old Commodore computers! (Hmmm..
nothing like adding a meg of ram to a 64k machine... LoL)
Don
...
From Camera Fixing Mailing List:
When you say patina, do you mean the greenish corrosion?
If so, I suggest dabbing with some white vinegar .. let it sit a few
minutes and wipe off . Repeat several times... it'll take off the green.
What works best if you don't get it into the works, is a little
dishwashing liquid and a toothbrush over the chrome etc. Then wipe off
with damp cloth. ..repeat several times... my Pentax SP looks cleaner than
my SP1000 now.
...
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:14:28 -0700 Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 >That CRC QD Electronics Cleaner is the cheapest product like this Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 NO, no, no! Japanese cameras and lenses are *NOT* put together with Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 From Camera Fix Mailing List:
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002
From: Stephen Castello scastello@cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: non-migrating lubricant????
http://www.micro-tools.com
Get the NyoGel 795A. I've used on a bunch of lenses so far and it makes
the focusing nice and smooth.
Stephen
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Re: "Manual" collimation of Zorki 1
Comrade Mike,
I must apologize for my harshness towards you. The gulag does get to me
sometimes.
You don't have to be absolute for a (small) personal collection. Just pick
the body / lens combination that works to your satisfaction, and make
everything else conform to it. Of course, new acquisitions would have to
re-educated. Recently, another comrade commented that the later equipment
seems to be properly adjusted at the factory, and my officially imported
by Dorso Optics Zorki 4 with 50 mm and 85 mm Jupiters worked without
problems - until some smartass threw away that "paper gasket" while poking
around where he shouldn't have been. That's when the Zorki became a camera
repair student practice camera (and the Jupiter-9's lens head came to live
on a Fujica in a Pentax variable close-up ring).
The body need not be totally dedicated to focus alignment. I have seen
(somewhere) a photo of a Leica with about a 1/2" hole in the rear casting
wall that was covered by what appears to a black plastic cap. The caption
said something about this being common (for repaired Leicas). By removing
this cap, and replacing the pressure plate (temporarily) with a ground
glass that sits in the film channel, you can check the focus at the film
plane! Given that these body casting are aluminum, the hole could be cut
with a capitalist MotoTool, or even hand tools such as a jeweler's saw and
filed smooth (not that a comrade loyal to the Revolution would know
anything about jewelry).
As for the cap, a piece of hobby shop brass sheet painted flat black and
Pliobonded to the inside of the casting (not so big as to interfere with
the pressure plate) would solve the light leak issue. Cosmetically, the
outside should have, well, a black plastic cap. If you had some sort of
lens cap or whatever with the manufacturer's symbol on it to make the cap
out of, so much the better.
I like this idea, I'll have to patent it and sell it for immoral
capitalist profit!
------
Robert
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002
From: "tigerarm2000" tigerarm2000@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Fed 5 rangefineder vertical alignment adjustment
...
I have all the Fed 5 models and they are the same with nameplates.
With the camera facing you and push the name plate toward the
selenium side then you can pop it off. I think by now you have
already done that. And rorate the small round window you can adjust
the verticle alignment.
Zhang
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002
From: "tigerarm2000" tigerarm2000@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Fed 5 rangefineder vertical alignment adjustment
...
> Hi Zhang! Do you mean the _whole_ rectangular assembly
> that encompasses/surrounds the viewfinder through the
> meter cell window?
>
> Brad
Hi Brad,
Sorry I didn't explain it clearer.
No, I mean the thin metal plate either black or chrom with the
cameras's name on it. Maybe You should push harder toward the left
with the camera facing you? There is a small leaf spring on the left
side of the thin metal plate.Make sure you don't lose it.
Zhang
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002
From: stuey63au madfamily at bigpond.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Interesting repair info
Hi group,
Thought I'd just post this URL to a VERY interesting Exakta repair
site that has great info on general repair tools and techniques.
http://www.exaktaphile.com/repair/kindis.html
Cheers
Mark
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Canon A1
martin_doc_holiday at martin_doc_holiday@yahoo.com wrote:
> Hi everybody,
>
> Recently a friend of mine asked me to have a look on
> her Canon A1. She said, new batt would run down in
> one week, even when current should be disabled by
> lock function on top. This was not for a bad batt,
> she bought a new one twice. Before going on with
> questions, is there any older file on this (am new
> to the group)?
>
> Kind regards
>
> Martin Luerkens
I don't think this has come up here, but it is a known
problem with A series Canons after they age. A friend
has two of them that developed this problem a couple of
years ago and I have heard of others. Canon basically
told him there was no fix, so he just takes the battery
out except when actually shooting, and the cameras work
fine.
Bob
From Camera Fixing Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002
From: rmacleay RMac@aol.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: camera terms and parts
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin Lee" kelvinlee@p... wrote:
> Hi folks
>
> There are many amongst us (incl. me) who are not familiar
> with the various terms for parts used in cameras...
As a follow up to this recent thread, check out :
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/photography.htm
Scroll down to find their glossary link.
Robert MacLeay
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] crosspoint screwdrive measure...
david tsuei at dtsuei@yahoo.com wrote:
> Thanks! where to get a cross point driver?
Radio Shack sells inexpensive sets which will hold up to
light duty. If you don't expect to use them a lot, these
will work fine. They are genuine cross point, not Phillips.
Bob
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Sheared off screw.
Another way is to make a slot in the screw by scribing with a diamond
tipped scriber and going over the scribe line repeatedly until you have
a deep enough slot for the screwdriver to grab. That's how I used to
do it when no other tool could reach the spot.
Bob
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002
From: Pat Mullen gator6@prodigy.net
Subject: Re: Lens disassembly
If the helical really needs to be relubed, there are couple of
options. The slick way to do this is use damping grease, that's what gives
it the "precision" feel as you focus. Problem is that this stuff is not so
easy to use, you have to apply it sparingly and often thin it with a bit of
oil if the movement is too stiff. If you've never done this before, you
probably don't want to go there. Best to practice with this stuff on a
junk lens before you do a keeper. In any event, you can get the grease
from MicroTools.
Regular, common, hardware store variety white grease works fine. It's
cheap and easy to use. You'll have to clean out the old grease before you
relube. Don't use too much, just enough so that everything moves
smoothly. Work the helical so that the grease gets dispersed.
Do not relube unless it's really necessary. When you take the helical
apart, it is CRITICAL that you note exactly the positions of the parts as
they come apart. Carefully unthread the helical and scribe a mark on both
parts where they finally come apart. When you go to thread them back
together once again, you must start them in that position; i.e., they must
go back together on the same threads on which came apart. If you fail to
do this, the focus will be way off.
you wrote:
>Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try it.
>
>Any ideas on which lubricant to use?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Robert.
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Monopods/Shutter speed tester
tsuntam@bellatlantic.net writes:
> Auto-collimators are great to test the infinity focus of the
> lens when it is mounted on the camera body.
Tsun:
I hope that you took a look at the link I placed in my post regarding
building a collimator.
I have been using Kar Yan Mak' technique with great success.
I went back and checked infinity focus on a few cameras that I had focused
using the ground glass method, and found that Kar Yan's technique gave much
sharper results.
My setup consists of a Topcon SLR with a 200mm long focus lens. My "target"
in the camera under test is a piece of clear plastic with some thin black
human hairs attached to the surface facing the lens.
You can get a really sharp infinity focus using this setup.
Since I had no need for a collimator other than to set infinity focus, I am
no longer planning on building one.
The URL is given below again for your convenience.
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/collimator.html
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: PINHOLES IN SHUTTER CURTAINS
Comrade
Textile paint used for printing designs on T shirts would do fine for this
repair job.
Jay
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002
From: "toolmaker48" toolmaker48@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Cross point screwdrivers
Hi again, Mark,
If you decide to swallow the US postage, consider going for the
quality tools. The postage will be roughly the same.
I have a set of the Radio Shack cross points. What I don't
like about them is that the blades are pressed in. One good "torque"
and the blade will spin forever. Moody blades have a flat on the end
and are held in by a screw collet. They're replaceble. You can make
your own blades if you like. Moody also makes wrenches and sockets
which fit the handles. All in all, not a bad system.
Their web site is http://www.moodytools.com/
Moody has been around for at least 30 years (that's when I
first came across them). They must be doing something right.
Another choice might be Cooper Tools (also known as the Cooper
Group) They have a presence in AU. Their Xcelite line comes to mind
first although Xcelite is a bit large for camera repair work. I'd
look to see what other lines they have that may be smaller. Quality
is good, no postage to worry about.
Robert
-- In camera-fix@y..., "stuey63au" madfamily at b... wrote:
> Thanks, Bob. Radio Shack is called Tandy over here, but unfortunately
> they've been bought out and are slowly reducing their Radio Shack
> stock, one of the first victims being the cross point screwdrivers
> that someone mentioned on here before (possibly you). Thanks again,
> might try that tip and fork out for the US postage...
>
> Mark
From Rollei Mailing List
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002
From: Richard Urmonas rurmonas@senet.com.au
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleicord Guide
> Cheers for the advice on whether or not to dismember my Rolleicord 1a to
> get at the inside of the front lens to clean it. Still pondering - is/was
> there a tool out there designed to prise the back lens element off of these
> cameras?
Matt,
The tool is a spanner wrench. However I would be VERY careful about using
these. I have seen far too many cameras with damage caused by the tool
slipping gouging the ring or worse chipping / scratching the glass.
You would be much safer using a rubber "friction" tool as Richard K.
described.
As for removing the "back lens element" if you mean the lens cell behind the
shutter, you need to remove the lens board to safely and properly access it.
DO NOT try and "short cut" by trying to remove it in situ. The risk of
damaging the camera is far too high.
If you mean the lens element at the rear of the front cell, then Richard K.
has covered this thoroughly in his post.
Richard
--
Richard Urmonas
richard@urmonas.com
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rescuing a Rolleicord Ia
you wrote:
>Unsatisfied with my pretty decent Rolleicord Va, I've just impulsively
>invested o15 at a garage sale on a beat up Rolleicord 1a (type 3). Despite
>being a bit tatty and smelling of damp, all seems mechanically ok, but the
>inside of the triotar lens is a bit cloudy/dirty.
>
>Rather than leave it on the shelf, I'd like to have a go at cleaning it up,
>if only to run a couple of rolls of film through it to see how they turn
>out. Clearly the thing is not worth investing professional time in, but if
>capable of sorting out myself, I'd like to try. It looks like there
>should be a way of opening up the lens assembly from behind using some sort
>of wide bladed screw driver - has anyone tried this? Is it a runner, or (as
>I suspect) will I if I do manage to unscrew the back lens never get the
>thing back together in perfect alignment again? Has anyone any better
>ideas, or should I just retire the poor thing and spend more time with
>cameras that work?
>
>Matt
Triotars are probably assembled about like Tessars. The smaller ones have
front retaining rings which thread off. This is the thing with the name and
type of lens written on it.
They are removed with a tubular tool, like a bottle cap, of the right
size, with a rubber ring on it. Even double stick tape will sometimes work,
but an O ring sanded so that it has a gripping surface works better.
Sometimes the threads are painted over. The paint can be removed with a
cotton swab and Acetone. Once the retaining ring is off the front element
can be lifted off with a bit of sticky tape. You can also just turn the
lens upside down and tap it lightly on the edge with a pencil.
The internal haze will come off with any standard lens cleaner or with
dry Isopropyl alcohol, which is in general a good optical cleaner. Once
clean blow out the inside with canned air and re-assemble. Use a bit of
sticky tape to hold the front element and guide back into place. The
clearances are practically non-existent so its imporatant to get the lens
in square. If forced it will be chipped. The air inside the cell needs to
leak out as the lens is replaced. Just give it a little time to settle.
Again gentle tapping along the edge of the cell will help.
Larger lenses, like the 135mm, f/4.5 Tessar once used on Speed Graphics,
have a back cap which unscrews easily (although gripping it with a rubber
glove may help). In this arrangement it is the center element which can be
removed.
It is amazing how hazy and dirty lenses can get inside. Some look like
they have been held over a candle. Fortunately, all this stuff seems to
come off easily without any subsequent damage to the glass. A little haze
can cause an amazing amount of loss of contrast, much more than the visual
examination would suggest.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002
From: jenspatricdahlen@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleicord Guide
>From: Matt Leach Cheers for the advice on whether or not to dismember my
>Rolleicord 1a to
>get at the inside of the front lens to clean it. Still pondering - is/was
>there a tool out there designed to prise the back lens element off of these
>cameras?
There must be tools for that purpose. I use to clean the Rolleicord elements
by screwing lose the lens at the front of the camera and then clean the rear
element with a nose/ear stick with a cotton top. Don't know the name for
this "tool" in english though. But it works. Not often I need to screw lose
the rear element.
The Rolleicord 1a, type 3, I have is in mint minus condition and gives very
good results stopped down to f:8 or smaller. Enlarged to 18 x 18 cm I can't
see any difference between photos taken with the Tessar/Planar equipped
cameras. A good picture taker if one wants to use a pre-war camera.
/Patric
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleicord Guide
...(see above posting)
You may be referring to a spanner wrench or pin wrench of some sort.
These are useful for removing some of the components of cameras and lenses.
However, what the original poster wants to do, I think, is to disassemble
the front lens cell.
We should make some definitions here because some terms get used very
loosely.
A lens element is a single piece of glass. It is sometimes used to refer
to cemented lenses but they should properly be called components.
A lens cell is a devise for holding together one or more lenses, in other
words, a lens mount. Most lenses have two cells, one in front of the
diaphragm or shutter, and one in back of it. These usually can be unscrewed
from the shutter or barrel although some are mounted with set screws or by
some method other than a simple threaded barrel.
A cell has some method of holding the lenses it contains in place. The
most often encountered methods for photographic lenses are: 1, a removable
front retaining ring; 2, a rear threaded cap; 3, a spun-in or burnished in
lip, usually at the rear of the cell. The last starts out as a thin lip of
metal which is burnished down on a lathe after the lens is placed in the
mounting. This is a very good method from the standpoint of ease and
accuracy but it is impossible to remove the glass without damaging the lip.
This type of cell is preferably opened by machining off the folded lip and
machining a thread on the body of the cell. The lip is then replaced with a
cap. The rear component of Tessar type lenses are usually mounted this way.
Front retaining rings sometimes have slots or holes in them for a spanner
or pin wrench. However many do not and must be removed by the sort of
friction tool I described previously. The friction tool is actually safer
to use on slotted or dotted rings since it can't damage the lens if it slips.
Some repair people drill holes in retaining rings. This is very bad
practice and unnecessary.
Smaller lenses, like those used on Rolleiflexes typically have front
retaining rings, larger lenses often have threaded caps on the back.
Sometimes both are painted over so that its not obvious what they are. The
rear element in a small Tessar is often spun in. However, since the front
element can be removed that poses no problem.
Getting at rear components for re-cementing is a problem because of the
commonly used spun-in mounting.
Don't worry about centering of elements or components. The centering is
automatic because the lens surface is held between two very narrow annular
rings on the mounting. It will be automatically centered when the retaining
ring or cap is tightened (not too tight!). Centering is a part of the
process of manufacturing the glass elements. If an element or component is
not properly centered when its made it must be reground. Most centering
errors are found in the elements of cemented components. A few lenses,
notably the old Turner-Reich convertible, are notorious for being badly
centered.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002
From: "Thomas A. Frank" taf@wiredwizard.com
Subject: Spanner Wrench (was Re: [Rollei] Rolleicord Guide)
...
The correct tool for removing the rings that hold the lens in is
called, in the US, a spanner wrench. I specify the US, as in the UK
a spanner is something else. Sometimes the ad will say optical
spanner wrench.
You can buy them from Edmund Optics, and they are fairly cheap.
http://www.edmundoptics.com/Find/Find.cfm?query=spanner&x;=16&y;=5
Tom Frank
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002
From: "Bryant Wetzel" ardvarrk@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Timing Leica/Russian shutters at highest speeds
Mark,
Zero Friction, RemOil and Tuf-Glide can be had at any good gun shop and
are about as state of the art as you can get these days. Super Lube and Nye
Oil are also great to use in those applications and will hold up very well
indeed.
Fargo does sell shutter curtain material and curtain tape. FYI. I find
it to be of high quality and if you look at the shutter carefully you will
see it is a small matter to pry the metal edges off the old curtain and sew
up a new one using the old as a pattern. SOMEBODY could make a decent extra
income offering made up cloth shutters. I use Pliobond to hold the tape and
curtains on the rollers.
Let me know if you want to rebuild old shutters for me. :-)
Bryant
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com
Subject: Re: Re: Monopods/Shutter speed tester
Tsun Tam wrote:
[snip]
> and an
> autocollimator. I have designed the collimator but not
> having access to a metal working lathe is delaying this
> project. If anyone having experience or advice in this area,
> please comment.
I built a good autocollimator using scrap metal and plastic, and
optics bought from American Science & Surplus. Here's the link to an
extensive article I wrote about it:
http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm
A lathe was not needed for this design.
I built it for the purpose of calibrating the focus of lenses. And it
does this very well. But I've found the more interesting use of it is
to gauge the quality of various lenses. I swing the camera from corner
to corner on the film-plane, and watch the image in the autocollimator.
On good lenses, the image changes little across the negative. On poor
ones, it's sharp in the middle but gets fuzzy about 2/3's of the way
to the corner.
Enjoy it,
Mark Overton
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Simple "Collimator" For Setting Focus (It Works!)
If one is only interested in setting focus on a just repaired camera, etc.,
the method shown in the link below works quite well
I was all set to dive into to making a collimator until I started using Kar
Yan Mak's scheme.
Roland F. Harriston
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/collimator.html
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: Checking optical registration
Hi Parlin
I measure the register using an ordinary vernier caliper calibrated to 0.02mm.
Some may say that this wouldn't give accurate or conclusive measurements. May
be true, but so far, I've been getting consistent results with it, and cameras
corrected using this caliper focus correctly. I checked the registers of my
Leica M3 with an SM adapter, various III series Leicas, a Canon IVSB, and a
Pentax Spotmatic, and the caliper used gave depths as specified for these
cameras- 28.8 for the Leica and its clones and 45.5 for the Spotmatic.
The 28.8 mm depth is the aim point. There is a 0.02 tolerance, so depths 28.78
to 28.82 are acceptable. For Russian cameras, Maizenberg states that the
working depth "should be made 0.03 to 0.05 mm longer" to accomodate "film bend"
for Zorki and FED cameras. He further states that with later cameras, 0.01 to
0.03 mm is enough. Thus, it appears that
the acceptable working depth, measured without film, can be as long as 28.85mm.
For measurements, I always put film at the focal plane and if depth is anywhere
from 28,78 to 28.83, consider the register correct. Pictures taken
subsequently prove that this is acceptable.
As for the caliper, I use a Japanese-made "Mituyo" brand vernier caliper.
This has to be taken into consideration as well, since the caliper itself can
be reading incorrectly. I've used a Chinese-made dial caliper which is
supposed to be calibrated to 0.02 mm but is consistently off by about
0.05 - 0.1 mm compared to the "Mituyo" readings.
Measurements are taken with the butt of the caliper sitting on the surface of
the lens mount, and the probe is carefully lowered into the camera until it
touches the film surface. The "Mituyo" caliper slides down easily, making it
possible to make its proble touch the film without bearing down on it. Depths
are read from four points- next to the mount's set screws should be good
places.
Jay
russiancamera@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>Question for Jay in particular:
>
>How exactly do you check optical registration on an LTM RF body? As
>far as I know it's supposed to be 28.8mm but when using a fairly
>precise venier caliper it measures about 29.84mm - 29.88mm from the
>lens mount to the film plane. I measured both my Zorki-3 and Fed-3
>which have been giving me fairly accurate results.
>
>The way I measure is to have one jaw flat on the lens mount surface
>(if not flat it'll add a fairly significant amount of error) and
>slowly close the other jaw until it touches the film rails (the
>chrome strips on the back of the camera where the film is pressed
>againts by the back pressure plate).
>
>In any case I use this as a "relative" measurement using the same
>approach consistently, however wrong it might be, because it'll give
>me the same consistent, "correct" wrong measurement.
>
>Now the question is how do I measure bottom loading cameras? Using
>the other end of the caliper for depth/gauge measurement is tough
>because you have to get the caliper perpendicular to the film plane.
>
>thanx,
>parlin
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002
From: Cliff Travis cliff@allcamera.com
Subject: [Rollei] rollei rescuinga rolleicord 1a or any other
Hi,
The biggest problem when working on cameras and other equipment is having
the proper tools. With lenses, spanners are all important as well as tubes
of various diameters and rubber or vinyl grippers..A repairman working on
only a few types of equipment can have specialized tools such as a "Retina
Wrench" for the removal of rear elements. Kodaks and Leicas also require many
tools designed for specific jobs.
Multi purpose spanners are available (www.microtools.com) and many pros
use them. I have most of them because I like tools and they come in handy
on occasion.
However most of the Experienced repairmen I know have made up special
purpose tools of their own. The modification of long nose pliers is a
favorite and I use this type of tool more often than the commercial
spanners. Pliers of all sizes come in handy but one with 3" points is
particularly useful.. I have used the very large an very versatile
Spanners obtained from Edmund Scientific 30 years ago
only once.Fargo now sells them but you won't need them for Rollei applications.
Incidentally when regluing leather Pliobond has advantages over most
other cements.
Cliff
All Seasons Camera
Cliff Travis
5 Harvard Lane PO Box 111
Hastings on Hudson, NY 10706
cliff@allcamera.com
www.allcamera.com
914 478 0931
FAX 914 478 7354
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Zorki 4 shutter speed markings
Robert Chiasson at rchiasson@sprint.ca wrote:
> If you have access to a program such as Illustrator, you could make a little
> dial "decal", cut it out and glue it to the dial, and protect as Jay
> suggests.
>
> Thus is not my original idea, somewhere in my cyber travels I've read that
> when converting a Hassy 12 exp. mag to a 24 exp. mag, it's easier to glue a
> new legend onto the exposure counter dial than replace the old - he used
> CorelDraw, I believe.
For information on making your own decals, take a look at the latest issue of
Fine Scale Modeler magazine. Model makers have been doing this with inkjet
printers for some time. This magazine has run several good articles on the
topic, and some advertisers sell blank sheets of decal material for the
purpose. Just remember that inks from most inkjet printers are not
lightfast and will fade rather quickly if exposed to bright light for
prolonged periods of time. So if you decal your camera you may want to keep
it in its case or in a dark drawer when not in use.
Bob
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002
From: longinesau longinesau@yahoo.com.au
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: FED Rangefinder
--- In camera-fix@y..., "jawewers" jwewers@h... wrote:
> Has anyone tried to adjust the rangefinder on a FED 2? Mine is out of
> whack. Jeff
W.
Yes. I've just had a similar problem on my newly acquired Fed-3
(adjustment is the same),only firstly , my rangefinder has been
misaligned vertically. If you have to do that: remove knurled ring
from front window of range finder. Underneeth you will see two,
slotted rings. Make sure the outer ring is firmly tight, then turn
the inner ring with glass, one way or another until you get vertical
alignment correct. This solves your other half of the problem. Then
refer two other advice given. Good luck........Longin.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Finally got my Minolta Autocord back together
Kenith Ryan at kryan@wireco.net wrote:
> Also, while I was working on the camera I accidentally touched the shutter
> blades while I had some oil on my hands. There are now two small smudges on
> them. This does not seem to have affected the operation of the shutter so
> should I clean it or just leave it alone?
I'd clean it if the camera belonged to me. The official way to clean
smudges off blades is to unscrew the optics and put a dowel of the same
diameter as the shutter opening (cut flat on the end and sanded smooth)
against the blades from one side and rub on the other side with an oil-free
chamois. Repeat for the opposite side. This is from the Compur shutter
manual. They used to sell sets of the dowels in the right diameter, but
you can probably find something close enough at a lumber yard.
Bob
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002
From: Frank Earl fbearl@yahoo.com
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Subject: [Cameramakers] Minolta Autocord Mirror
If you want to try this yourself, here is the easy
thing to do. Get a front surface mirror from Edmund
Scientific of the approximate size or larger and of
the same thickness. Cut it to size with a glass
cutter and install in place of the old one. Or
better/cheaper/faster, get a Polaroid for $3 at the
thrift shop. It has to be the kind with the reflex
mirror. These are generally the ones where the film
is carried in the bottom instead of the back. Tear it
apart until you can get the reflex mirror out. (I once
tore one apart until I could break the reflex mirror,
and then I accidentally broke it.) They are generally
in very nice condition since they have been very
protected their whole life. Cut the mirror to size
and install it with shims if there is a thickness
difference. The front surface of the mirror must be
in the exact plane of the mirror you are replacing
(assuming that one was in focus).
If you don't like cutting glass, the local glass
company may do it for a fee. These mirrors are better
that the original on the Autocord (especially if the
Autocord mirror was silver-based) and should give you
a noticeably brighter image. When I have done this
with TLR's, I have saved the old mirror in a labeled
envelope in case I want to restore the camera to a
fully "authentic" condition.
Good Luck and if you get tired of the Autocord I can
give you an address to send it to. :>)
Frank
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002
> From: Matt Mengel surlycamera@yahoo.com
> To: Cameramakers cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com>
> Subject: [Cameramakers] Minolta Autocord mirror
>
> Greetings everyone,
> I am looking for a reflex mirror in good shape for
> one
> of my Minolta Autocord twin lens cameras. It is for
> a
> camera I wish to use not a collector. Looks like
> someone "cleaned" it with a piece of 600 grit
> sandpaper. Pretty tough to focus. I may have some
> stuff to trade. You can respond here or email me off
> list at
> mmengel@yahoo.com
> Thanks,
> Matt
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002
From: Philip Leeson pjleeson@mchsi.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Seeking TLR parts/service
I have had success with this problem by removing the mirrors from old
polaroid cameras. You need the type of polaroid that has the film pack
on the bottom, usually selling for under $10 on eBay. They disassemble
easily by just pulling them apart, but I needed a couple to get the
technique right. Then I traced the shape of the old mirror onto the
back surface of the new one and used a little glass cutter.
Much less expensive than resilvering, may require a little paper shim to
hold the mirror to the front of the mounting brackets on the Rollei.
Phil Leeson
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002
From: Philip Leeson pjleeson@mchsi.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Seeking TLR parts/service
Yes, but I always thought the SX70's were a little too nice to destroy
even though "collecitble polaroid" is thought to be an oxymoron. Look
for the "One Step" line. They are extremely plastickey and
plentiful(71 listed on ebay today); you can get a few to play with. I
broke a few mirrors before I got the hang of it.
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Seeking TLR parts/service
you wrote:
> Greetings folks,
>
> I've had my father's Rolleiflex TLR on the shelf for quite a few years. As
>a
> younger man I used it for general B&W; photography using home soups. I
>pulled
> it out recently with the thought of giving it a whirl. While the shutter,
> aperture, wind, self timer and release all still work smoothly, and the
>lens
> looks very good, the mirror has lost its luster. Would anyone know of a
> source for a replacement, or a resilvering service?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Mickey Trageser
You might try cleaning it. Silvered mirrors tarnish, which can't be
fixed. This usually shows up as a blackening of the surface, sometimes in
patches since silvered mirrors are usually coated with a protective laquer.
I've had an argument here about later Rollei mirrors. I think the ones on
my cameras are aluminized rather than silvered but I am assured by Marc and
others that they are silver. If I am right cleaning will work fine. Use
very dry Isopropyl alcohol and drag it over the surface with a sheet or
lens tissue or a Kimwipe. It should take off any hazy dirt without leaving
streaks. Window or lens cleaner tends to streak.
I am not sure of sources for first surface mirrors which are thin enough.
For aluminizing see if there is an amateur telescope club in your area and
find out who aluminizes their mirrors.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
[Ed. note: a critical reminder about lens alignment...]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002
From: "Bryant Wetzel" ardvarrk@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Re: Lens separation
Hmmmmm?
The only thing that has not been mentioned it the orientation of the
lenses in relation to the mount and each other. One MUST mark each lens so
you know which way is up and forward. When lenses are properly set up they
are ROTATED against each other until the best possible image is realized.
Usually a collimator is used for this. SO, if you don't have such a tool it
would be best to suspect the manufacturer of having set it right in the
beginning.
You should mark the elements as to orientation. More complicated lenses
should be mapped on a reference card as you take them apart. That way you
will always have a map in your personal file outlining the hard work you
have already performed.
Bryant
From: Michael Briggs MichaelBriggs@EarthLink.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kodak Aerostigmat Lens
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002
Richard, your comments about the cement are interesting. R. Kingslake
in his 1947 article in the Journal of the Optical Society of America on
Lenses for Aerial Photography states "From the very beginning of the
war, Canada balsam was replaced by a methacrylate plastic cement to
resist high and low temperatures, ....". How sure are you that your
lens had been originally cemented with Canada balsam? Perhaps
Kingslake was mis-remembering, since your lens is a fairly early one.
Isn't "EA" 1942?
--Michael
Richard Knoppow wrote:
> I have one of these guys. Its mounted in a diaphragm assembly which
> has a coupling to a control on the camera. As Michael Briggs points
> out its a Tessar type. Mine came in a housing with cone and a heater
> at the front. My lens dates from 1941 (EA prefix). I bought it for
> nearly nothing at C&H; Surplus because the cement in the rear element
> was completely cloudy. I recemented it using Canada Balsam (will never
> do that again) so its a usable lens, but it needs to be remounted in a
> shutter and that is just a little too expensive.
> Evidently these lenses were originaly cemented with Canada Balsam.
> The heater is partly for keeping the lens from frosting over and
> partly for keeping the cement from crystalizing at the very cold
> temperatures these lenses were subjected to in use. Not long after
> this synthetic cements began to be used in aerial lenses.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Nikon EM
rolohar@aol.com at rolohar@aol.com wrote:
> Most "professional" repair folks leave out most of the screws when they
> repair a camera anyway, so I guess thats about par for the course..
That certainly is not true. Any really good repairman keeps track of
each screw as it is removed, and puts it back in the same place. It is not
uncommon to have screws throughout a camera which are all the same size but
differ in lengths. Putting a long one into a hole that a short one came out
of can really mess things up, so it is vital to keep track of them.
I used to use two inch wide masking tape and stretch a piece out on my
workbench sticky side up and thumb tack it down. Each screw was stuck to
the tape as it was removed, with ballpoint notes below if there might be
any question where it went. Works for small parts, too.
I bumped into a man the other day whose Leica CL I had repaired around 1974
and he delightedly told me it was still working great. His had lost the
silvering on the rangefinder prism, as they always used to do. If I had
left out most of the screws, or even some of them, it is unlikely his
camera would still be working.
Bob
From rollei mailing list:
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Automat 4 disassembly instructions
you wrote:
>Gene,
> The camera was given to me. When you press the shutter button the
>shutter doesn't engage and when you turn the film advance it turns hard in
>one spot. Since I have noithing invested and nothing really to invest, the
>engineer in me wants to check it out.
>
>Tks
>
>Tim
The MX is not too difficult a camera to work on. There are books
available which will help.
One source is Ed Romney, he has a web site somewhere. Another source is
the _Rollei Technical Report_ Claus Prochnow, available from several
sources, try Petra Keller, http://www.camerabooks.com. There is a series
covering mostly the F series Rollei published by National Camera and
reprinted. I don't remember any longer where I got mine but think it was
from either Petra Keller or from John S. Craig, http://www.craigcamera.com
Both Petra and John have reprinted Rolleiflex factory manuals and Compur
shutter manuals.
You need a minimum of tools, mainly a set of jeweller's screwdrives, a
couple of Dumont pattern tweezers, one with a needle point (#2 or #5 by
memory). These should be of anti-magnetic stainless steel. A pair of small
needle nosed pliers (electronic parts houses will have the right kind) and
some other odds and ends.
Most of the problems in Rolleiflex's and Rolleicords come from solidified
grease or oil, the parts get stuck together. Some problems are caused by
worn parts needing some adjustment. Once in a while something is actually
broken but Rolleis are pretty tough.
You will appreciate the quality of both design and construction once you
get into the thing.
Best cleaning solvents are naptha, sold as lighter fluid and also in bulk
in paint stores, and very high purity Isopropyl alcohol. You can get 99%
Isopropyl in many drugstores and even purer stuff as a cleaning solvent in
computer and electronic stores.
You will need a very light, non-gumming, oil and some light grease. The
silicon grease sold as Lubriplate in the US is suitable for some sliding
surfaces but is too light for the focusing cams. I am not sure what to use
on those. Petrolium jelly is nearly the right consitency but tends to
oxidise too rapidly. Unfortunately, both Rollei and Compur specify
lubricants as factory part numbers, pretty useless. In general the less
lubrication used the better.
I bought a Rollei MX as a junker to learn on. Jammed shutter etc. It
turned out to be rather easy to fix, mainly congealed lubricant. I learned
a lot from this camera and it turned into a very good working camera. I
think it takes a lot to turn a Rollei into complete junk, they are very
robust.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002
From: "rick_oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Testing Shutter Speeds - Calumet tester ???
The electronic tester is worth having, and Romney's neon-tube system
isn't much use.
BUT: the TV screen test is very useful for checking fade at high
speeds (my electronic tester can't do this), and MUCH quicker than
the electronic tester if you just want a quick check that
everything's okay before loading the camera. These days, a computer
monitor makes more sense than a TV screen. Just open a blank page in
a word processor to give you a clean white screen.
rick :)=
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-27.html (tech notes)
[Ed. note: caveat emptor, or should I say caveat repairer? ;-)...]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002
From: ohmymywldthg@aol.com
Subject: Lens cement
Mark, I have talked about the lens cementing problem with my repair guy here
in town he says he has fixed a number of seperations using thin super glue
(the highest quality kind from the local Model Airplane hobby shop) He likes
this glue due to the fact it is very clear and will self remove any airspaces
as it is self wicking he warns to have your jig set up and locked down he
uses three machined square steel blocks with a nice polish that he will super
glue to a sheet of glass to create a jig to keep the elements aligned when
glueing. Then he uses more of the glue then would be needed placed in the
center cup of one of the elements this way the glue works from the center
out. The excess can easily be removed from the jig with a razor blade as all
the surfaces are polished. Protect the underside of the bottom element with a
single layer of plastic tape to pervent glue from wrapping around the edges
and from being pushed down on the sheet of glass.He has also used a method
where the glass sheet had the tape on it and the element had a thin layer of
grease. He says if you get the amount of glue close it is much less of a
problem since the gap is micro thin a single drop is more then enough. Make
sure your alignment is good and place the second element on top of the bottm
one with the glue sitting in the pocket apply even steady pressure for at
least 5 minutes longer if possible since super glue cures by absorbing
moisture from the air it takes longer when in a thin section like this. And
with any new process he strongly suggests if possible pactice on a junker
first.
Hope this helps. Mark W.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002
From: "Mike Bergen" mike@creativedialog.com
Subject: RE: Re: Lens seperation
I have seen this same problem with an almost mint Rolleiflex MX (Tessar)
where one side of the negatives had a different focus than the other. It
took me a long time to realize that the cement holding the rear element of
the front group was decomposing. However I have yet to figure out how to
remove this element and replace it properly. Any ideas would be welcome.
Mike Bergen
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002
From: mkirwan@nospampacbell.net (Mike)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Focus aid (cheap) for manual focus MF SLR cameras
You can get the details for adjusting your rangefinder at
http://www.graflex.org/GHQ/V2I3/kalart-adjustment-problems.html
and here is a link for making a cam;
http://www.graflex.org/articles/cave.html
and here is one last link about the focus scope
http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-focuscope.html
Mike
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning fog from Xenar
you wrote:
>I'm wondering if anyone here has opened a Xenar to clean light fog off the
>inside surfaces. Is it easy? Better left up to a pro? And what kind of
>tools would I need to get it unscrewed?
>
>Also, off-topic [Leica]: I'm trying to relubricate the focusing helicoid on
>an old 50/3.5 screw mount Elmar. Lighter fluid freed it up a lot, but I'm
>wondering what I can put on there that will truly lubricate.
>
>
>Douglas Cooper
>http://www.dysmedia.com
The Xenar is pretty easy to get open (I assume you mean the front cell).
The front element is held in by a threaded retaining ring (the thing with
the lens name on it). While it has small slots for a spanner its safer to
remove it with a friction tool. The friction tool is simply a length of
tubing the right diameter with some soft rubber cemented to the rim at one
end.
A great many lenses have retaining rings which are not slotted and are
removed this way. There are no spacers in the Rollei Xenar. The haze will
come off with lens cleaner or pure alcohol. Lately I've been using a
"streak free" type window cleaner for lenses. This stuff contains
2-Butoxyethanol and is the kind recommended by Hewlett-Packard and others
for cleaning scanner windows. Its more effective than the usual Ammonium
carbonate lens cleaner.
You must remove the front trim panel from the camera to remove the Xenar
front cell but you can get the element out with the cell in place.
The viewing lens has set a set-screw on its side. The lens must be
removed from the camera to work on it. I've found a couple of viewing
lenses that had what appeared to be dropletts of oil on the glass. Whatever
it was came off with lens cleaner.
If you clean the viewing lens be very careful to note the position of the
spacer inside and the direction of the center element. This element look
very nearly bi-convex but isn't. If you get it in backward the lens will
not focus.
A great many lenses develop a haze inside sealed cells. It appears
sometimes in lenses which are only about twenty years old, and not at all
in some older ones. Old Wollensak lenses do not seem to get hazy. Kodak and
Schneider lenses do and the haze destroys the contrast to an amazing degree.
Zeiss Tessars as used on Roleiflexes also have front retaining rings.
Larger ones have threaded back caps which are very easy to get off.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002
From: "mlee777rf" mlee777@bigpond.com
Subject: Re: "Manual" collimation of Zorki 1
Felix,
The method you suggested is OK for cameras with opening/removable
backs. You can simply put the ground glass screen over the film
plane. However, with a bottom loader, you cannot view the ground-
glass directly. I received a note from Tom Tomlosy about an approach
involving the use of described in p102 of his book on repairing Leica
SM cameras. I suspect it involves the use of a collimator.
Rick Oleson's method is similar to yours. Instead of a loupe, another
SLR with a fast lens (for greater brightness) set to infinity focus
is used as a viewer. The SLR is placed directly behind the ground
glass of the target camera.
" You can slip a plastic mirror into the focal plain and use a
collimator to test the focus. An actual film can be used the same
way, albeit it will yield a fairly faint image, depending on the
aperture. A Leica focoslide (FULDY) can be used to test focus on SM
lenses. The method is described in my Leica book, page 102. How to
build a collimator is described in my first book. "
If there is another way (ie without the use of a collimator), I would
like to know.
Mike
from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Re: "Manual" collimation of Zorki 1
Yes, but a home-made autocollimator may be easier in the end. I've got a SPT
article about this, I'll scan it if and when I get the scanner hooked up
(still need the printer for a few more days).
In the meantime, one of those small "store in a shoebox (large) enlargers"
could serve as the victim for conversion to a collimator.
Try find those old Focal Press camera guides - you will truly come to
appreciate the sanity of the Ruskies after reading about some the bizarre
offerings of the 50's to 70's.
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002
From: "toolmaker48" toolmaker48@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Cross point screwdrivers
Hi Mark,
Moody Tools Co. here in the US, makes very good miniature
tools, among the best I've used. They're carried by electronic and
jewelers supply houses. Try an e-mail to them. They should be able
to tell you if they have an overseas distributor.
Robert
--- In camera-fix@y..., "stuey63au" madfamily at b... wrote:
> Does anyone know of a source of cross point screwdrivers in
> Australia? I know it's a long shot, but I'd prefer not to pay more
> for postage than the actual tools, as I would through Micro-Tools
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com
Subject: Re: Re: contaflex saga
You can also order spanners from Steve Grimes. He has a solid design:
http://www.skgrimes.com/span/index.htm
Micro-tools.com sells several kinds of spanners.
Mark Overton
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Re: Cross point screwdrivers
stuey63au at madfamily at bigpond.com wrote:
> Thanks, Tim. All those that I've tried are Phillips, not cross point -
> I've tried Tandy, Dick Smith, Jaycar and Altronics, all electronics
> components retailers. I've got a set of Phillips, but they tend not
> to grip cross point screws very well if they're tight.
Although not a perfect solution, you can convert Phillips into cross point
by grinding off the tip. The blade angle isn't exactly the same, but it
is close enough for a lot of screws. You can get medium quality cross
points at Radio Shack in the USA.
Bob
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Repair References
It's "the Bible" of the Russian cameras, but if you're reading the English
translation, the are a few things to keep in mind.
First, I've found a few places where the word "string" would make more sense
if it had been translated as "spring" - I've no idea how extensive the
jumbling up due to the translation is.
Second, during the discussion of obtaining necessary repair tools, it is
not clearly pointed out that he's only mentioning what you just buy from a
watch supply store - or, in a small town, buy from a cooperative
watchmaker (very good point) - you will note that in the various chapters,
tools are casually mentioned that are not from the watchmaker. Fact is,
you will at one point realize that you need every tool in creation, can't
get enough tools and are always on the search for tools. His tips on "key"
making are good (he doesn't tell you to run out and buy an adjustable
spanner wrench). I like his "cupropliers", and would like to bring your
attention to the photos I've seen of factory repair operations - the don't
have the "usual" camera repair tools sold to us amateurs, just about all
the tools visible are based on special pliers or special screwdrivers with
at least 1/2" diameter handles (no "Flexicamps", adjustable spanner
wrenches or tiny watchmaker / jewelry screwdriver shafts).
I think that if you are going to make parts or tools frequently, you
should also look into getting a "jewelry making" toolkit.
------
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Moore" tim55ukuk@yahoo.co.uk
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Repair References
> I just got a couple of days ago a copy of Isaak
> Maizenberg's book on Russian Cameras.
>
> How is that rated in practise?
>
> Tim
from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002
From: "Keith Berry" keithberry@blueyonder.co.uk
Subject: Re: PINHOLES IN SHUTTER CURTAINS
The repair guy on the Olympus List recommends 'Liquitex' black fabric paint
applied to the film side of the curtains for pinhole repairs. He's from the USA
and I haven't looked for it here in the UK. Perhaps a Google search could turn
up a stockist in your area.
Regards,
Keith Berry
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Depth Micrometer Purchase?
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002
...
I've been using a standard combination micrometer and depth gage
with a reference plate. The plate is made of about 1/4" aluminum with
holes in it at the right places. Since I can measure the thickness of
the plate very accurately I can simply subtract it from the readings.
I lay the plate on the holder, avoiding the locating ridge, and
measure the depth with film in the holder. This seems to work well.
I've measured something like 100 4x5 holders and around thirty or more
each of 8x10 and 5x7 holders.
I commented in another post about the variability of holders. New
ones are fine but many older ones, especially wood holders, are likely
to be off enough to cause noticable defocusing.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From camera fix mailing list;
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Camera Repair Course
Correspondence is the only way left.
Try http://www.cchomestudy.com/ or
http://www.natcam.net/catalog/intropage.html
The two schools are different, National Camera being the traditional school
for mechanical cameras and C & C concentrating in modern electronic cameras.
Take a good look at both, ask questions and dig real deep into your wallet.
------
Robert
[Ed. note: thanks to Fritz Carlsson for providing this tip!...]
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002
From: Fritz Carlsson FCarlsso@csir.co.za
To: rmonagha@post.cis.smu.edu
Subject: Separating cemented lens groups
I have read all the aforegoing about lens (re)cementing with great
interest. I soaked a 2-element lens group in methylene chloride in order
to separate them for recementing. The process promised to be very slow
and after several hours only minimal "creep" of the solvent between the
elements could be observed. An old idea suddenly struck me, gleaned
from a past mishap, and that was to place the group (still in its
beaker of methylene chloride) in an ultrasonic bath. The lens elements
separated within seconds. This seems to be by far the best way of doing
it provided you have access to an ultrasonic bath.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com
Subject: Re: cutting SLR mirror
>Any idea how I can cut the mirror (for SLR)? I thought of replacing
>the mirror of my camera, silvering deteriorated around the edges, got
>the (almost) right size for it. The slow way, what I can think of,
>is to grind it painstakingly to the correct size, but there must be
>an easier way to cut it.
Use a glass cutter (basically a handle with a sharp carbide wheel at the
end). You score the glass with the cutter, then snap it. You can give it
a rap against the edge of a table, or if a very thin edge needs to be
removed, grasp the edge with a *parallel* jaw pliers with rubber between
the glass and the jaws, then snap it off.
Wear eye protection, maybe gloves too, do the entire operation in an area
where flying glass shards won't cause future problems (i.e., NOT next to
your bed, your pantry, dog's food bowl, etc.), and practice, practice,
practice with scrap glass (ideally about the same thickness/size as the
piece you need to cut) until you're confident you've got the hang of it.
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Coating and Collimating
you wrote:
>
>> I had JVS do the recoating on one of my E2.8 Xenotars. It will look great,
>> but bear in mind the lens will have a slight color shift which is only
>> noticeable on transparencies. To get around this I use a R1,5 which
>> compensates when shooting trannies.
>
>
>This surprises me -- John made a point of explaining to me that he closely
>replicates the original purple, but applies the coating at a much higher
>temperature, which makes it harder. I was also under the impression that
>coating colors don't really affect the color of transmitted light (although
>that does seem a bit counterintuitive). How does the color shift manifest?
>
>Also -- and this is a delicate matter -- Bill Maxwell has noted that a few
>Rolleis have come back to him for recollimating after being recoated; there
>is some concern that Focal Point's collimator is a touch off. I wouldn't
>want to be the one to point this out to JVS, who is cl
>
>
>Douglas Cooper
>http://www.dysmedia.com
Collimating, as used here, means setting the infinity stop of the camera.
A very small error here probably does not affect overall performance.
However, mismatching of the finder to taking lens will make all images
out of focus. If the taking and viewing lenses are not in coincidence it
may be the result of different assumptions of where the film plane actually
is.
Generally, I set focus using a ground glass placed against the film
rails. This may not be entirely accurate since the film actually runs in a
very narrow channel between the side rails and the back plate. It may
buckle slightly one way or the other. One could measure the actual film
position using a prism autocollimator which projects a target through the
taking lens onto the film and allows viewing it by means of a beam splitter
and telescope. A laser interferometer would also measure it.
A collimator is simply a target placed exactly at the infinity focus
plane of a lens. The image is projected to infinity and appears to be there
to any other optical system looking into the system.
One can make a makeshift collimator from a view camera by autocollimating
the lens to infinity focus and placing a small light source or target at
the ground glass surface.
The autocollimating is done with a small mirror, large enough to cover
the front of the lens. Preferably a first surface mirror but an ordinary
shaving mirror will work. Just make sure the plane side is facing the lens.
At its simplest place the tip of a pencil flashlight on the ground glass
near, but not at, the center of the glass. The mirror and lens will project
the image of the light back to the ground glass. Focus it sharply. The lens
is now focused _exactly_ at infinity. A light or target in the focal plane
will appear from the front of the lens to be at infinity. This can be
useful for checking the infinity focus of other cameras. I have an ancient
B&L; 12", f/4.5 Tessar which works well for this because it presents a large
window.
A little thought will show that two things happen when the light path is
folded. One, the light must pass throught the lens twice. Effectively its
the same as if two lenses were used in series with no distance between
them. Since the total focal length for two lenses of the same focal length
in series is half the focal length of either one has effectively halved the
focal length. Since the system is exactly symmetrical it is operating at
1:1 image to object size. At 1:1 the distance between object and image is
exactly four focal lengths. Since the path is folded the actual path is
here is double. Since the effective focal length of the lens is halved we
can devide by two again. The result is that the lens is exactly at its
infinity focus position.
This trick is also useful for measuring the focal length of the lens and
finding its principle planes when the focal length is known.
To find focal length set the lens up for exactly 1:1 (without the front
mirror of course). The displacement of the lens from its infinty focus
position will be exactly one focal length. Also, as mentioned above, the
distance from image to object will be four focal lengths.
The principle planes are found by placing the lens again in its infinity
focus position and measuring exactly one focal length from the focal plane
to the lens. The lens is turned around to find the other principle plane.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "Mike" nedsnake@earthlink.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Learning to repair SLRs
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002
A few suggestions. Start with the same make and model, work with them until
you know them well then move on to the next.
Purchase working cameras, study them and learn how they operate, take them
apart and put them together several times. While all SLR's operate
basically the same way they are not all built the same way.
Try to find issues of the Camera Craftsman they will provide much more step
by step then factory manuals.
As far as tools and test equipment goes the sky is the limit. You will need
a shutter tester capable of reading the speed of each shutter curtain, a
light source that is calibrated so that you know it is accurate and a
collimator to focus lenses with. I would suggest looking at
www.micro-tools.com for tools, supplies and test equipment. If you want to
repair for pay I would also suggest a course in electronics if you need it.
Cameras such as the A1 and AE1 will require a basic knowledge of
electronics.
If you can't build your own equipment or find it used some where, be
prepaired to spend a big chunck of money.
Talk with your local repair shop asking if you could sit with a technician
or just have a look around.
You'll get a rough idea what it will take even for a part time venture.
Mike
www.fridaycreekcamera.com
"Chris" chris.everitt@bt.com wrote
> I'm interested in learning to repair 35mm SLRs as a hobby that may lead
> to part time work.
>
> My plan is to buy up some old (minimal electronics) style SLRs that have
> minor faults and buy a few books and fiddle until something works,
> hopefully learning along the way.
>
> Can anyone provide any advice or know how to go about getting formal
> training.
>
> What test equipment & tools would I need ?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> Chris
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002
From: Colyn colyng@swbell.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Learning to repair SLRs
Jeff four_season_photo@yahoo.com wrote:
>Once upon a time, National Camera in Colorado offered training, but they're
>long-gone: You might ask Mr. Fargo about who's filled that void.
The NC repair books are still available at
Infotech
Box 370884
Denver, Co. 80237-0884
Phone 303-752-9270
If I recall the catalog is $2 refundable on your first order..
Colyn Goodson
Ft. Worth, Texas
colyng@swbell.net
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002
From: John Jungkeit junkit2@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [HUG] Need Help Jammed SWC
Your shutter release button is sticky. Keep working
it manually until it loosens up. Save your
money....possibly...keep trying to manipulate it until
it works correctly. I had the same problem with mine.
I bought it new but it was old dealer stock. The
release froze due to lack of use. That may be your
situation.
John
--- Mark Kronquist mak@teleport.com wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> My SWC SN7777 has jammed and will not release with
> or without a back or on T
> or O or with the shutter set at X M or with the V
> Self Timer
...
From: Simon Freidin clappingsimon@hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Can't remove fingerprint from Tessar
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002
Removing the rear element will not get you to the rear of the front
element- you'll be blocked by the element which screws into the front of
the shutter. You'll need to work from the front. On the uncoupled
viewfinder Zeiss's I've worked on, you remove the 'stop' screw which
hits the focussing mark indicator at the limits of the lens travel. This
allows the front element to be removed. Coupled focussing will be more
complex. The element needs to be unscrewed carefully to note where it
comes free, as there are four different positions that the element can
be screwed on (ie four threads). Only one position will allow the
element to travel through the focussing range correctly and be correctly
focusssed at infinity (check with a ground glass on the film plane with
shutter on B). You can then remove the element which screws into the
front of the shutter and clean all surfaces. Windex & hydrogen peroxide
(1:1) makes a great cleaner, though it may take some time to work
fotocord wrote:
> steven.sawyer@banet.net wrote:
> > Now when I look at the lens
> > - it appears that the fingerprint is on the inside of the lens,
> although
> > this could be an optical illusion. The shutter (Compur) is between
> the
> > lenses. Is it possible that someone was repairing the shutter and
> left
> > the fingerprint?
>...
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002
From: Peter Rosenthal petroffski@mac.com
Subject: [HUG] Re: CLA
Anthony Atkielski wrote:
> What sorts of things wear and break on Hasselblads?
Shutter mainspring, flash sync contacts, shutter blades, speed escapement,
wind relay gears and spindles, barn door mainspring assy., aperture "wide
open" spring (CF) are the primary culprits on the lenses that wear and
break. On the bodies: release button return spring, shutter spindle relay
gears and spindles, back winding relay gears and spindles, mirror cushion
foam, wind shaft shear pins. On the backs: darkslide foil and foam,
return springs, nylon return stop, counter adjustment, film wind stop arm.
These are just a few things that break and wear. There are many things
that need cleaning lubrication and adjustment on a fairly regular
adjustment. The slow shutter speeds will eventually stop. The aperture
will stop stopping down. The barn doors will not close. The back will stop
spacing accurately. The back will leak light. Your mileage WILL vary but
eventually the body, the lens and the back WILL stop working without
maintenance. It's just a matter of time and miles. Lets not even consider
the motorized bodies...
Hope this helps--
Peter
Peter Rosenthal
PR Camera Repair
111 E. Aspen #1
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
(928) 779-5263
From: fotocord fotocord@yahoo.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Can't remove fingerprint from Tessar
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002
steven.sawyer@banet.net wrote:
> Thanks for all the advice. I'm a little gun-shy about taking the lens
> apart, so I might just bring it to a pro.
I really wouldn't be afraid of taking the back element out, it's made into
it's own mount, screws into the back of the shutter and normally isn't in
very tight. Nothing is going to fall out, there are no shims and the glass
isn't loose mounted needing to be recentered or anything like that.
DON'T attempt to remove the second element from the front of the shutter!
These are normally very tightly screwed into these shutters as being a
front cell focusing lens, they would unscrew with use if they aren't. I've
seen several of these ruined from people trying to get that element out
without the proper tools. But as I said the rear element will come out
easily and there is no adjustment required to reinstall it, it just screws
back in.
--
Stacey
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Need help with sticky tripod legs
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002
Frank Calidonna cemeteryman@clarityconnect.com wrote:
>I have an ancient, but wonderful old Hercules tripod that I use with my
>rail camera. It weighs a ton and is as solid as a rock. I do not want to
>part with it. Lately the collars that I have to twist to extend or
>collapse the legs have grown very difficult to twist. I have to use a
>strap wrench to make one of the turn at all.
>
>I remember putting lubricant on a tripod collar years ago. It worked in
>that I could twist them easily, but the legs would not stay open. They
>would slowly slide closed. So I don't want to try this with my venerable
>Herc. Nor do I want to have to use the wrench all the time. It is ok for
>opening and closing, but a pain for small adjustments. Does anyone have
>any suggestions?
>
>Thank you.
>
> Frank Rome,NY
These things were built by Quick-Set and sold by Calumet, among
others. A couple of models were made for TV cameras.
I would try squirting penetrating oil into the joints and
disassembling the leg locks. Once apart you can clean them out with
naptha and relubricate them. I am not of what the best lubricant is
but you can try Lubriplate or, for something heavier, white lithium
grease from the auto supply store. The threads of the collars and
outside of the collets should be lubed. Its been a long time since
I've even seen one of these guys so I hope my memory of its locking
mechanism is correct.
The penetrating oil may take hours to work, maybe overnight. Have
patience and give it another squirt after a couple of hours.
Probably what has happened is that there is an accumulation of grit
in the threads which has started to abrade them, causing even more
grit.
These are very nice solid tripods, worth some work.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 10:04:12 -0700
From: Peter Rosenthal
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002
From: "bennydrinnon" bennydrinnon@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
People have used benzine to clean cameras, but lighter fluid is
safer. I use lighter fluid myself. It is a good idea to read the
warning labels on these products before you use them. - Ed Romney's
pal
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
Absolutely, after all, that glass dish on the watchmaker's bench (with a
cover to prevent evaporation) is called "the benzine pot".
Ronsonol is used because it's the best and widely available *substitute* for
benzine, and is ideal for applications that need a slight oil residue, like
escapements and leaf assemblies.
"Craft" camera repairmen will not use Ronsonol as their normal clearer,
preferring (like the watchmaker) to add their own lubricants to absolutely
clean parts.
The usual procedure is to do the heavy cleaning with something else
(cleaning machine if available), and then having the clean parts soaking in
the benzine pot on the assembly bench, fishing the parts out one by one for
drying and immediate reassembly (and then oiling the mechanism).
How difficult and expensive was it to get the benzine? What is the maker's
name and part number? I see from your e-mail address that you appear to be
in Sweden, so the specifics may not apply to me in Canada, but it's nice to
have hard data when shopping for the unusual.
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
...
I'm not sure about benzine, isn't that rumored to be carcinogenic? I can buy
naptha at the local hardware store, it is used for thinning and accelerating
drying of oil-based paints. I was led to believe that naptha is what
Ronsonol is... is that not the case? I've been thinking that my little 5oz
squeeze bottle of Ronsonol (for $2) was going to give way to a $4 -quart- of
naptha... I'm always looking for a better solution. I wish we could still
buy freon in spray cans...
--
Jim Brokaw
[Ed. note: see warning below - use care and lots of ventilation/fan with any hydrocarbon cleaner...]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
Heed This Advice!
Stay Away From Benzine!
http://www.benzene-leukemia-center.com/?source=google
From the URL above:
Quote:
Benzene and Leukemia:
Benzene is a dangerous environmental toxin used in the manufacture of
plastics, detergents, pesticides, and other chemicals. The Department of
Health & Human Services has determined that benzene is a known human
carcinogen - a chemical or physical agent that causes cancer.
The predominant disease and cancer caused by benzene exposure is acute
myelogenous leukemia (AML). Benzene is also reported to cause Hodgkin's
Disease and lymphoma.
The following diseases are associated with benzene exposure:
AML ( acute myelogenous leukemia )
ALL ( acute lymphatic leukemia )
CML ( chronic myelogenous leukemia )
CLL ( chronic lymphatic leukemia )
Hodgkin's Disease
HCL ( hairy cell leukemia )
aplastic anemia ( a risk factor in developing acute nonlymphocytic leukemia )
People exposed to benzene for less than 5 years have developed, and died
from, leukemia. Even short-term exposure to high levels of benzene can cause
drowsiness, dizziness, unconsciousness, and death.
If you suffer from an illness caused by benzene exposure, you may be able to
receive compensation for your injuries. Click here for information on a free
legal consultation with an attorney near you.
End of Quote.
Stick with Ronsonol lighter fluid, a variety of naptha. And even with
Ronsonol, make sure you use it in a well-ventilated area. Keep skin contact
at a minimum. Avoid prolonged inhalation of vapors. Follow warnings on the
Ronsonal label.
Roland F. Harriston
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
...
Petroleum distillates come in "families", "naphtha/white gasoline" being one
of them. The variety used in the paint industry is the variety used in
instrument cleaning - you luck out on this one. Coleman camping fuel is also
used by some techs, as it leaves less oily residue than Ronsonol, but smells
to strong for most shop environments.
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002
From: "rick_oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
Benzine is NOT Benzene.
It's an unfortunate choice of names, but Benzine is the name commonly
used in many places outside the USA to refer to Naphtha cigarette
lighter fluid. Benzene, a carcinogenic chemical with a sort of
nauseating smell, is different stuff and of no interest to camera
repair.
As for "oily residue", I have used naphtha for many years for many
purposes, and have never seen any oily residue from it. I think
perhaps what people are seeing is a remaining residue of the oil
which the naphtha was being used to clean away. Naphtha is not as
powerful a solvent as some more damaging liquids such as acetone, and
if not thoroughly cleaned, parts may have a residue of oil left...
but this is not the naphtha itself, and if parts are cleaned
thoroughly in naphtha (by ronsonol or any other name), they will be
clean and oil-free.
rick :)=
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002
From: "jonyquik" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Lighter fluid vs chemica benzine
I have read this whole thread, and it is filled with a lot of the
truth, but also a lot of confusion and misinformation. There are two
chemical solvents that have the same sounding name but are spelt
differently. They of course are BENZENE, and BENZINE. One as all of
you are aware is an oily flammable substance which can be used as a
cleaning solvent, and is more commonly used in heating stoves and oil
lamps. The other is a solvent which became popular with the early use
of ultra-sonic cleaning machines. It basically replaced Carbon
Tetracloride after that substance was banned, and had very similar
properties to that extremely dangerous solvent, in that it had a
similar aroma, and evaporated very rapidly in the air, similar to the
way acetone evaporates. Benzine was later also banned when it was
learned it had cancer causing properties. To further confuse this
issue, we have the European nations that call motor fuel Benzene or
Bensin, which is to us Gasoline. I believe their spellings to be
quite different than in English, for the solvents also.
...
From: circlesofconfusion@ukonline.co.uk (circles)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Distance to film plane
Date: 9 Jul 2002
I have just gone through the process of setting my ground glass depth.
This is how I did it.
I used the method of photographing a 1 meter ruler which was placed in
a position extending from the lens front directly away from the lens.
It should be on a slight slope so that the lens can see the markings
on the ruler and the focus point is approximately in the center of the
viewfinder.
For the test use the shortest focal length lens which you have
available. This is best because the depth of focus at the film plane
gets narrower as the focal length of the lens gets shorter. Therefore
short focal length lenses will show up any error in GG position more
than longer focal length lenses.
Use the widest aperture of the lens to make the image(narrower depth
of focus at filme plane again).
Use the smallest possible lens extension to make the image because if
you increase the lens extension you will also increase the depth of
focus at the film plane and make any error in GG position less
detectable.
I used a 72mm lens (4x5 camera) and focused on the 32cm mark on the
ruler. This gave approx 10cm of bellows extension.
Make careful note of the range of depth of field on the ruler which is
sharp on the GG using a correctly focussed loupe.
Ensure that no shift of postion of camera or focus happens when you
insert film holder/back.
Make the image, develop and check neg with a loupe.
If the focus point on the neg is closer than it was on the GG then the
lens to film distance is greater than the lens GG distance which means
you have to increase the depth of the GG a little and repeat the test.
The reverse also applies. It might be wise to make several images at
the same time to verify that you are not getting inconsistent film
flatness problems although this is probably more necessary when using
sheet film holders.
With my test set up I was able to detect a GG positional error as
small as .05mm which is .002ins
I doubt very much whether using depth measurements using a micrometer
will be as accurate as using this practical evaluation
method(especially if you use a bosscreen like I do).
Rob Champagne
Felix Marti marti@nscl.msu.edu wrote
> Hi:
> I just bought a Pacemaker Crown Graphic (2 1/4 x 3 1/4). I measured the
> distance from the ground glass to the contact surface and it is 0.186".
> I measured the equivalent distance for the roll film back I had and it
> is 0.204". The difference of 0.018" is partially explained by the paper
> and film combined thickness of about 0.01. That leaves about 0.008
> difference. Is that within tolerances? What is the correct standard
> distance supposed to be?
> Thanks a lot.
> Felix
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002
From: "camfix55" camfix@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Handy tool
Hi Guys;
After a recent "go round" with a Tameron zoom that I am saturating with
various fluids I thought I might pass this along. In the kitchen aids section
of your local dept. store you will find a round rubber pad used to help people
open stubborn glass jars. Run right out and get one. I have used mine for years
and find it very worthwile. Very handy for filter rings that have been over
tightened or lens barrels that unscrew etc. Now if I could get my wife to quit
putting it in the silverware drawer!!:-)
Later. Everett
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002
From: "jonyquik" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Handy tool
Nice idea!!! I have quite successfully made use of over the past
years of an old inner tube I got from a junkyard. These can be cut
into strips or shapes, and make great friction helpers that don't
ever seem to wear out.
...
> Hi Gene;
> I got an Email message from Scot Holm another list member
He used an elastic exercise band to remove a filter makes sense. I
have even used a rubber exam glove I keep a box for those times when
I get into "nasty" chemicals I use a few fluids that can be a problem
if you don't wear them. I still use my little Kmart jar opener very
often. It and I have become great friends. Everett
from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: [Russiancamera] Kiev Ribbon Substitute works!
Tovarishchi!
Polyester ribbons from tailoring supplies make suitable substitutes for Kiev
shutters. The 3mm wide, 0.38mm thick (slightly thicker, original Kiev is
0.32mm) ribbons work rather well. Being my first attempt at ribbon replacement
in a Kiev shutter, the job wasn't perfect- the ribbons were too short. so 1/25
to 1/1000 were OK, but the three slow speeds and B hang. The Kiev which
became my guinea pig is a not-too-good 1976 model 4.
Concerns about durability of substitutes have been raised in the past. It has
been suggested that non-standard issue materials be tested first before
drafting them into service - such as subjecting them to at least 1000 firing
cycles to see if they fray or break. The "operation" was done
some weeks ago, and I wanted to observe the camera first to see if the
substitute ribbons would snap quickly, before reporting this to the comrades.
The shutter has long went past the 1000th firing cycle and it continues to
fire. Despite having thicker ribbons, the shutter can be operated with the
tension setting recommended by Maizenberg. It is approaching its 1500th mark-
my assistant (no it isn't Igor:)) has been tasked to wind and fire the shutter
at least 36 times daily. This is like shooting a full roll with the camera
everyday.
The ribbons showed no frays or signs of breakage when the shutter crate was
opened. The only difference is that they are now more pliant. It will be
replaced soon with longer ones of the same material, only to make the slow
speeds and B work.
And at only $0.05 per metre, it certainly is a more viable alternative compared
to the $35/yard "real" Contax ribbon.
Jay
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002
From: "Gene Poon" sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: 'cold' soldering?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter" petergutierrez@compaqnet.be
To: "camera-fix" camera-fix@mail.beststuff.com
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002
Subject: [Camera-fix] 'cold' soldering?
> Hi folks,
> I'm still trying to get my old Fujica ST801 light meter going. I am having a
> problem with a tiny little component that I thought I had soldered back onto
> the circuit board. The problem is that one of the little metal sprigs that
> come out from each end of the component has broken off. All that's left is a
> little butt end of metal embedded in the plastic/rubber casing. I did manage
> to get some solder to make contact with it and the meter started working
> again, so the component itself is good, but the solder joint was not solid
> and it's lost contact again. I know you're supposed to heat the substrate
> and not the solder when soldering, but how do you do this when you can't get
> at the substrate, in this case the little broken end of the component
> contact? Is there a electrically active glue I can use to reattach this
> component?
Chemtronics makes both a silver-bearing conductive paint, lacquer-based,
and a silver-bearing conductive epoxy. They are kind of
expensive...about $15-$20 for about 10ml of the lacquer or 5 ml of the
epoxy. The lacquer comes in a "paint pen" and the epoxy, which is a
two-part system, comes in two small tubes. Chemtronics products are
available at most electronics parts jobbers where professionals go to
get their parts and supplies.
There is a competing product called "Nickel Print" from GC Electronics,
a lacquer-based conductive paint using nickel instead of silver, and
much cheaper. But don't bother with it; "Nickel Print" is just about
useless, unless you use a large amount of it, and then it is still quite
resistive. It's always has been basically useless, in my opinion, for
such small jobs as yours. GC "Silver Print" is supposed to be OK but I
have never tried it.
NOTE: If you use the conductive epoxy or conductive lacquer, you will
not be able to effectively solder to it. The epoxy will contaminate the
solder connection, the lacquer will break down under the heat. Instead,
you should use a small, fine piece of wire and embed it into the
adhesive that you apply. Both of these materials do not attain their
final conductivity until completely cured, so don't rush things and
leave them for about 24 hours to set up completely before disturbing
them.
If you are still game for soldering, try cleaning off the remains of the
pin and applying some rosin-based solder flux directly to the little
stub to what remains, then tacking on a small/fine piece of wire as a
"jumper" to the circuit board,although if it is broken off flush or
corroded, you have about a zero chance of success that way.
-Gene Poon
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 18:09:56 -0700
From: Jim Brokaw
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002
From: "jonyquik" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: cutting SLR mirror
I am presuming the mirror in question is a first surface mirror. (If
you put the tip of a pencil to it, the pencil's image will touch the
tip of the pencil.) You should also check for the thickness to be the
same, checking it with a vernier caliper to the tenth of a
millimeter. Otherwise you will have problems setting the focus, and
maintaining the original parallax. If this is the kind of mirror you
have, carefully examine the edges of the mirror. You will notice that
there are no shiny edges as would be evident if it was cut, but
rather it has a surface which has been ground. Qptical shops have
special grinding wheels for grinding glass to shape. Last I checked
they were of a light green color, and used water flow at the grinding
surface to prevent heat build-up in the glass, which can be fatal to
a piece of optical glass. The problem with a piece of glass that has
been silvered, is that you are dealing with two surfaces, the optical
glass, and the silvering, which you will find out act independently
to outside influences, such as trying to cut them with an ordinary
glass cutter, and or grinding them on a wheel such as I mention
above. I think your best bet is to grind this to size. If you can
find a friend who works in an optical shop they can probably do it
for you, or you can do it on your own by using a full sheet of fine
emory cloth on a flat surface, and work the mirror by hand slowly so
there is no heat build-up. As a precaution to shattering the edges of
the silvering or the glass from vibration, use masking tape to mask
off the size you want to keep. This will also prevent any damage from
handling. The glass and mirrored surface can be cleaned later with
acetone after the tape is removed. I have done this procedure before,
and it works very well if you are patient. Good Luck!!!
> Hi,
>
> Any idea how I can cut the mirror (for SLR)? I thought of replacing
> the mirror of my camera, silvering deteriorated around the edges, got
> the (almost) right size for it. The slow way, what I can think of,
> is to grind it painstakingly to the correct size, but there must be
> an easier way to cut it.
>
> Well, finding the time to actually do this is another story, but
> anyway... would appreciate your input.
>
> TIA,
> parlin
From: "Dark" Helios2@switchboardmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Need help with sticky tripod legs
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002
I'd soak the joints with Marvel Mystery Oil(it's in the auto dept at
Walmart) overnight and then take em apart and clean them with naptha or
spray carb clean it the collets aren't plastic.
Then trot over to Radio Shack....they have a 2 or 3 oz tube of Teflon based
grease for about $3.99 if I recall right-this stuff does not attract dust
and works from -60 to 600F.
Put the joints back together and you should be good for several years.
From: "Dark" Helios2@switchboardmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Source for shutter curtain cloth
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002
MicroTools (www,microtools.com) has it in their catalog
Harris Austin
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: [Rollei] WARNING about Rolleigrids.
Do NOT use Isopropyl alchol to clean Rolleigrids. It will cloud the
plastic. I just ruined a mint one I bought an hour ago at a local camera
sale. Isopropyl alcohol works on my plastic eye glasses and on lenses but
does not work on whatever Rolleigrids are made of.
I am sending this warning in the hope that it will save someone else from
making the same mistake.
Its the sort of thing that makes me feel the gods are out to get me. :-(
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: Eric Goldstein egoldste@earthlink.net
Subject: [Rollei] Re: WARNING about Rolleigrids.
> If you haven't thrown the Rolleigrid out, you might try a metal
> polish like Simuchrom (sp?) or even toothpaste to polish off the
> cloudiness. Works wonders on foutain pens and plastic jewelry. Who
> knows, it MIGHT save your Rolleigrid.
>
> Bob Marvin
Simichrome is GREAT stuff... pretty mild on the abrasive side. I also use it
bring back old bakelight and other plastics... Made by the Happich Co in
Germany and imported by Competition Chemicals, Inc of Iowa Falls. It is
recommended by premium metal goods makers such as Nambe and they often
repackage Simichrome as their own brand of metal polish.
Eric Goldstein
From rollei mailing list:
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: Todd Belcher Todd.Belcher@Creo.com
Subject: [Rollei] WARNING about Rolleigrids.
This stuff is great for removing scratches, or haze from plastic:
http://www.novuspolish.com/red1.htm
todd
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: Wayne Cornell cwcornell@caxtonpress.com
Subject: [Russiancamera] Cheap Digital caliper
For anyone looking for a good way to measure film to lens distance, without
spending a ton of money, Harbor Freight has a 6-inch digital caliper that
measures metric or U.S. and allegedly is accurate to +- .01mm. The metric
feature is really nice and and electronic readout beats the heck out of a
dial. The other good thing is the price--$39.95, although I understand that
they have been on sale for as little as $19.95.
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: scoop scoop@hotmail.com
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: Cheap Digital caliper
There are a number of mechanical dial calipers available for about $20 from
the mail order mcahine shop suppliers. These will probably outlast the
people whi buy them which would almost cerainly of most of what Harbor
Freight sells (where else can you but a lathe with plastic gears?)
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002
From: Jay Javier nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: Uses of lighter fluid
Wayne and Scoop
Be careful about using lighter fluid. Yes it cleans well, and it is one of
the best, most useful cleaning solvents for camera repair. It is best used
with the camera at least partially disassembled to ensure that the parts
where the fluid must go are exposed, and application is limited there.
Lens helicals can benefit a bit, but since the fluid eventually evaportes,
the lubes it initially softened can harden again, but this time, where it
may not be appreciated.
If any gear is cleaned, there must be some new lube applied to it. Dirty
assemblies are best flushed out, and whatever is 'freed' by dousing with
lighter fluid will, in time, stiffen again, unless old gunk and grease are
removed and relubed.
To get to the J-9 helicals, take out the set screws found on the focus
ring. The optical block is removed first. When the focus ring is off, the
first helical ring is exposed, and racking this out (carefully) will have
the threads out- and lighter fluid can be introduced here. While still
flowing, turn in ring in to let the liquid into the hellicoids. The other
helicals are accessible only by further disassembly.
Jay
From: Fred@anon.com (Fred)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: TTL questions
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002
The TTL is a system that is calibrated just as a ambient light
metering system also needs to be calibrated. Basically the light
reflected of the film plane or in some cases off a gray shutter
curtain meter by a separate cell in the bottom of the mirror box that
faces reaward towards the film or gray shutter curtain.
When I worked at Minolta service, when checking/calibrating the flash
TTL system we used a special back door that had gray card colored
paper mounted to the film pressure plate. We used this special back
door in place of the camera's regular back door.
Another system we used for checking/calibrating TTL was to take a roll
of unprocessed Kodak Gold 100 film pull the film out of the roll and
leave it exposed to light for 24 hours. We then took this same
unprocessed film loaded into the camera mounted a test flash on the
camera and pointed the camera and flash to gray card colored paper on
a wall in a darkened room. We used a reflected light flashmeter take a
reading of the flash reflecting off the gray paper and used this
reading to check/calibrate the flash TTL system. So if we had the lens
set to f/5.6 on the body being checked/calibrated, then the meter
flashmeter should also read f/5.6.
Even with TTL flash systems you may still have to perform some
compensation based on reflectivity of your subject. There are some
fancy TTL systems that are supposed to cut down on having to
compensate but no system is completely foolproof
Adrian Seet a_seet@hotmail.com wrote:
>I've been reading more into the different types of flash available and
>can't really figure this one out. Maybe I'm just thinking too much.
>
>Most explaination of TTL flash goes something along the lines off:
>
>With TTL flash, the camera senses the amount of light that comes through
>the lens and when the RIGHT amount of light is detected, it shuts the
>flash off.
>
>My question is, how does the camera know what is the RIGHT amount. From
>what I understand, the TTL meter assumes that your subject is the same tone as
>18% gray. So if your subject is white, you need to compensate your flash output
>by +2 and similarly, for black subject you need to compensate -2.
>
>But how often do we have a subject that's just all white or all black? If that's
>the case, how do we know if we need to compensate the flash output? If the scene is
>of mixed tones, we might sometimes need +1 or -1 etc, but how can we figure
> this out? Or rather, how can the camera figure this out? This is what I'm not too sure off.
>Perhaps one of readers with more knowledge can help me out here.
>
>Thanks in adv,
>adrian
From: "ajacobs2" ajacobs2@tampabay.rr.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: "Mo-Lith" lubricant...where to buy
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002
Should be avialbale any bike store or Home depot type operation....it's
monolithium grease, Lubriplate is just a brand....very common. I stopped
using it and now use white teflon bearing grease from a Bike store...It's
better in hot weather here in Florida...........
--
Al Jacobson
Website: www.aljacobs.com
> Does anyone know an online place in Canada that sells "Lubriplate Mo-Lith
> No. 2" lubricant?
> I need it for my Tiltall tripod.
>
> Thx
> D
From: "Steve Grimes" skgrimes@skgrimes.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: LF shutter repairs
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002
The challenge for the specialist is what to do after you find you are
working 80 hours a week.
The options are:
1. Raise prices.
2 Become more selective about the work you do. (specialize
more) practice and become more efficient in your specialty.
3. Become a prima donna and make people wait a year and a half
for your service. (This actually causes more work and less income)
4. Hire support staff (secretary, shipper, etc)
5. Hire and train employees then supervise them in your specific
area of expertise.
Options 1requires balls and not a lot else. High self esteem and ego will
help. Its a legitimate response to market forces.
Options,2,4, and 5 require pressing oneself in personal development,
choosing and trusting others.
Option 3 is the usual default choice of those with poor interpersonal skills
who take their satisfaction in material objects rather than in the game of
human interaction.
I currently employ three full time and one part time employees, besides
myself.
I am actively seeking a skilled and experienced repairman that will allow me
to get back more into general camera repair but am at the moment limiting
the repair service not to include 35mm equipment. I don't feel in any way
limited by the number of hours I have at my personal disposal. We all have
the same 24 hours in a day.
SKG
S.K. GRIMES -- MACHINE WORK FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS
153 Hamlet Ave. (5th floor) Woonsocket RI, 02895
+ Lenses mounted into shutters.
+ Shutters repaired, restored.
+ For more info-- http://www.skgrimes.com.
(updated 8-1-01 Site Map)
Now: flat and pointed tip Spanner Wrenches
http://www.skgrimes.com/span/index.htm
"Robert Monaghan" rmonagha@smu.edu wrote
>
> I also think the specialist repairer is often preferable; but I am seeing
> problems now, with a handful of rollei repair types getting most of the
> recommendations, or here, Steve Grimes, and there is only so much time
> that they have to sell us. Higher demand for that time means higher
> prices, yes? ;-) Longer delays in getting jobs done. Some are older and
> experienced repairers, now in semi-retirement, and may have a harder time
> seeing and doing repairs as in the past too.
>
> Now some of these guys are retiring, with no replacement in sight, as the
> specialty tools and training and esp. spare parts inventory is not
> feasible to build, esp. for an uncertain field like camera repair, and
> new entrants are likely to go for higher volume repairs or warranty work
> Past 7 years after last sale, USA firms don't have to maintain parts
> replacement stocks etc. under Magnuson-Moss Consumer Protection Act...
>
> I can readily see a future in which not only camera mfgering, but camera
> repairs are done off-shore; but for older cameras and shutters, it may
> be due to more mechanical repair skills available more cheaply overseas
> along with willingness to make repair parts at an affordable rate vs. the
> cost of custom machining in USA/Europe?
>
> my own mini-solution to the above has been to buy up cheap or ugly parts
> cameras for Kowa, Bronica.. and lenses so I will have my own donor cameras
> and lens parts inventories ;-) ditto nikon FE, FTN.. and favorite lenses
> like 105mm f/2.5 etc. with backups. You can often get the good pieces for
> less with a damaged camera than when buying separately, and still have a
> parts camera left over ;-)
>
> the other problem with not patronizing local repairers is if we don't,
> they will soon be gone (esp in this economy). There are lots of minor
> checks or adjustments that can be done, competently, by lots of camera
> repair techs out there. The more serious or pricey cameras and repairs
> should probably be passed on to the specialists, at higher costs for
> better work and warranties. Unfortunately, many cameras have "tricks"
> to make them work well that people who work on them all the time learn,
> but the guy who sees a leaf shutter Topcon for the first time is in
> for a nightmare ;-p)
>
> Given the costs for inventories, repair manuals, advertising, and all
> that, I'm not surprised so many camera repair techs are going out of
> business. I am trained and have a lot of electronics technician repair
> kits and manuals and instruments and parts, but it is uneconomic to fix
> most electronic equipment these days except by replacing entire modules,
> and cameras are getting that way too...
>
> bobm
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002
From: Doug nomathjobs@yahoo.com
Subject: [Russiancamera] FED3 RF prism glued w/contact cement: works
Hi all,
Just passing on a tip that Rick O sent me - I had a FED3 whose RF prism had
come loose and was rattling around inside (same FED3 w/slow speed problem).
Rick suggested a small dab of contact cement to reattach the prism.
This weekend, with much trepidation, I gave it a shot. After practicing
prism placement w/o glue (not much chance for realignment w/contact cement)
I dabbed a small bit on the prism and a small bit on the plate where it
attaches.
I gave it 8 minutes to set (the glue says 15, but I thought maybe I'd have a
chance to realign it w/less setup time) I pressed it in. Works like a
CHAMP! Rock solid mounting, no fogged glass (like one might get w/CA glue).
A quick tune of vertical displacment and infinity focus and it's back to
normal .-)
Big thanks to Rick!
doug
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: razondetre@aol.com (Razondetre)
Date: Sun Sep 08 2002
[1] Re: help with a Yashica-D
Screws of the size you seek are plentiful when you disassemble and scrap the
old Sony WalkMan radios and similar.
RDE.
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002
From: Roger roger@provins.org.uk
To: classic35mmcompacts@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Classic 35mm Compacts] where to get camera repair tools - UK
Hi,
I've found it impossible to buy the sort of item you are looking for in the
UK. I make the smaller sizes of twin hole wrench from flat screw driver
bits, such as come from the very cheap ratchet driver sets. Simply
file/grind out the centre portion and round the ends to fit. I've made four
sizes which cover all the cameras I've repaired so far and I'll make up more
as needed. For larger sizes get a pair multiway circlip pliers and suitable
file up the ends to fit the holes - one size fits all. For foam the very
best I've found is a kit from Jon JGood21967@aol.com (he's in the USA but
ships fast) who will sell you a very comprehensive selection of foams and
eighth inch strip at a very reasonable price for enough different types of
foams to keep you going for a long while.
Regards
Roger
...
>
> Does anybody know where to purchase camera repair tools - either in
> UK or available to UK?
>
> To start, I'm just looking for one of those 'spanners' to remove the
> common flat nuts with the two indentations / holes - like those often
> on the top of the advance lever etc (I think they are called spanner
> wrenches?)
> Perhaps these are not specific to camera repair, so anywhere to start
> looking would be an appreciated tip.
...
From minolta mailing list:
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Minolta X300s
Some good sources for electronic components, available in small quantities
and over the internet are: DigiKey www.digikey.com, and Newark Electronics
www.newark.com, and Allied Electronics www.alliedelec.com
I have used all these as sources in buying electronic components of many
types (IC's, switches, resistors, capacitors, inductors, fuses, etc.) in my
former job as a Senior Buyer, before the economy took a dive and I got laid
off. {As a side note, anyone in the San Jose CA area know of any purchasing
jobs...?}
For small quantities of components, these companies are geared to the
'engineering/design' market and can handle credit cards purchases also. You
might need to make up a project and/or company name... if they ask.
I think one or two of these companies charge a $5 surcharge on orders under
$25, but if you browse their catalogs it would be easy to meet a minimum
order as they also sell tools, supplies, etc... Ask me how I know...
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:14:23 -0700
From: Jim Brokaw
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002
From: "Peter Wallage" peterwallage@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: restoration methods
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Vincent" jonyquik@h... wrote:
> Abdon, I have recommended it before, but it is worth restating; do
> not use graphite on cameras. It cakes up and hardens and loses its
> seemingly immediate beneficial effect very rapidly.
I'll second that, Vincent. I've just finished cleaning old dried-up
graphite out of a Compur shutter. It had completely gummed up the
works, and it sticks like S to a blanket. I had to take the slow
speed train, the
delayed action train, the shutter blades and the diaphragm blade
assembly out and soak them separately to get rid of it.
I repeat what I've said before, lubricate the PIVOTS ONLY on a
Compur, and use light watch or clock oil sparingly. The gears and the
blades run very nicely without anything on them.
Peter Wallage
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002
From: Vick Ko vick.ko@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Re: Optical Adhesives (Source)
Be careful when buying this stuff.
I bought some, and was charged almost 5 times the cost because adhesive
is categorized as a
hazardous chemical.
It came double boxed and was very very well labeled as being a hazardous
chemical substance.
Before you place the order, I would explicitly ask about the shipping
fee. You may save yourself
a very expensive surprise.
regards,
Vick
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002
From: "Jose Lopez" purelifecr@softhome.net
Subject: Re: restoration methods
Hi Bill,
> I have purchased several old cameras and I intend to attempt CLA on
> these units. One is a cast aluminum body that will need polishing.
> I visualize a felt pad and a dremel motor tool? Maybe not?
Maybe that could be a bit rough, try a cotton cloth and Brasso or such
soft polishers and a good dose of patience.
> I also am interested in knowing the best solvent to remove
> leatherette,
Be careful with solvents, they can be very harmful for some materials,
try removing it without them, if the glue is headstrong, make sure the
leatherette stands the solvent.
> clean shutter gear trains and and lubricate parts.
Try to avoid the use lighter fluid to clean shutters,timers or such precision
gears, it could be effective but it could be harmful for some materials as
well.
You could use a precision cleaner like the ones to clean computer cards,
it removes grease and dirt and doesn't leave residues and is inoffensive,
use it with confidence, just make sure it is plastic safe reading the can
instructions. DON'T use WD40 on those gears, it makes them stick. Use
it on springs and levers if you want but with precaution, it works great
if it's used carefully.
> I am thinking of buying Romney's basic book. Recommendations?
Personally I've never read such books, but I've heard that they're not
the best book reference, I don't know.
> What about this kind of information on a web site or file?
Perfect, there are many websites out there where we can find lots
of information. Be patience and go for them.
> Thanks...
Good luck Bill
Jose
From: "Daniel H" lbert50@sympatico.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: lubricant for Gitzo CF legs?
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002
Try "Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube". Available on bicycle shop. Not cheap but
excellent product. Durable, dry, water resistant. I use it on my Manfrotto
with success.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Electronics in cameras (was no subject)
Repairing electronic circuits in cameras or any equipment controlled
and operated by modern digital electronics, including computers,
requires the knowledge of quite a few skills to begin. Most of these
miniature circuits use what is termed CMOS chips which are extremely
sensitive to any stray static electricity, and even touching one of
these chips with your body filled with static potential from wearing
polyester clothing or walking across a carpet, can blow those poor
things to hell and back. Some poor folks have higher potential for
storing static electricity than others, and should wear a grounding
wrist strap to do this work. (1.) It is always necessary to ground
yourself, and discharge any static potential your body is storing
before working on an electronic camera that has had its' plastic top
cover removed. The plastic covers prevent you from blowing the chips
in ordinary usage. (2.) Using an analog VOM on one is equivelant to
putting your camera into an electric chair, it will fry everything. A
DVM or good digital volt/ohm meter is necessary to do any
measurements on digital circuits. (3.) A grounded soldering iron
plugged into a bonifide grounded 3 prong outlet is necessary, or a
soldering station that is approved for digital work. (4.) Use a foam
pad like a mouse pad to work on the camera, as this will also help
protect the circuit. (5.) Most malfunctions in battery operated
equipment occur because of a break in the ground circuit caused by
corrosion. Always trace your ground circuit with a jumper wire, to
bypass the natural path, to locate the area that is causing the
problem. (6.) The next area of malfunction is usually the cell
reading the light values, or the variable resistors that give
feedback info to the main CPU. (7.) ICs can be obtained from the
manufacturer, and their replacement is a learned skill that begins
with making a proper heatsink for the chip before attempting to
desolder the old one to protect the flex or solder the new one in
place. (Heat as well as static will fry these ICs) The heatsink made
from aluminum needs to contact the body of the IC during the
soldering process (press fit), and allow you access to the ICs pins
as well. (No mean trick!!!) Heat sinks once made can be marked as to
which IC and camera they belong to.
If you still wish to repair electronic cameras after this small
amount of info, jump in with your rubber boots on, and be ready for
some failure for sure. Good Luck!!!
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Specialty Tools
Just discovered a new on line source for tools. This site is great
because it has pictures of each individual tool, and the prices are
also very reasonable. It is called MICRO-MARK, and can be reached at
the following URL: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark.
I am also posting this to the links page. Check it out and be really
surprised.
Vincent
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: selenium cell soldering tricks/tips
A long time ago, in a land far away, I put the wire back on with CG
Electronics Nickel Print. I was advised NOT to try soldering it.
The wire made a good connection when pressed onto the spot it came off of,
so I clamped in in place with locking tweezers and put a dab of nickel paint
over it, all the time watch the output on a multimeter to make sure nothing
slipped out of position. When the nickel paint was dry, I put a dab of model
cement over the connection to help seal and secure it, and taped the excess
lead to the back of the cell so that the connection was not strained.
YMMV
------
Robert
...
> I've been working on a Voitglander Vito BL, with a 'Bewi' light meter... in
> the course of my disassemblynations the wires to the selenium cell came
> unattached... I've got the one on the back soldered back on, but I am not
> having any success making the solder stick to the front (light-sensitive
> side) of the cell. Are there any known tricks or special fluxes, etc. to be
> used to make this work?
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: selenium cell soldering tricks/tips
There are now conductive epoxy materials which are more conductive
and stronger than Nickel Print. Also conductive silver-bearing
paint, which is also more conductive but not as strong.
-Gene Poon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 )
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: selenium cell soldering tricks/tips
In fact, the conductive pen I've got came from LaRose.
I think I paid about $10 or so for it, but that was
some time ago. Maybe they still sell them. Neat
place to do business, and real decent people to deal
with. They sell small tools, too.
Jon
...
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Source Guide
I have just posted to the links section a link to a pdf file that is
a very complete Source Guide from SPT, The Society of Photo
Technologists. It has tons of links to manufacturers reps, and parts
sources and repair manuals and more than I can list here. It is 12
pages of info useful to anyone involved with repairing cameras.
Vincent
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Replacing Leatherette
Ron, Check out Micro-Tools under "Restoration Materials";
http://www.micro-tools.com/
For $5.00 they will send you a sample sheet of all of their products
in that area.
Sincerely, Vincent
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Replacing Leatherette
rburkart@cybermation.com at rburkart@cybermation.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a friend who has a Contax 139 body. The leatherette has started to
> separate from the backing (they used a very thin synthetic leatherette) Is
> anyone aware of a source for replacement leatherette, either in bulk or
> pre-cut form. He has already bought a replacement set from Contax once, but
> it wore out as well in only a few years. Any advise or assistance will be
> appreciated, thanks.
>
> Ron
Check out http://www.cameraleather.com for replacement leatherettes precut. The
have a variety of cameras ready to go, feature exotic leathers and such as
snakeskin, bright red, etc. I think if they don't have a pattern for your
camera already you could send the camera to them and have something
fitted... but they have a bunch of different manufacturers covered already.
I can't remember if I saw Contax in there, but if the leatherette is similar
to the Yashica cameras I know why you need a replacement.
--
Jim Brokaw
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002
From: "Tom Daughdrill" lincman90@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Replacing Leatherette
Try cameraleather.com. I do not know if the have leather for the Contax,
but they do for several models. Prices range form $17 to $37.
Tom/Louisiana
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Jon Goodman's foam kit
I promised to offer a review of the kit that I purchased from Jon Goodman
when I received it... and I got it very quickly.
The kit comes with several pieces of different types of foam (as described).
The pieces are each about 3" x 9", which when you figure how its used is
enough for probably a dozen cameras. You wouldn't use all of any one kind of
foam on a camera, as there are different types well suited to the little
back-sealing grooves, the flat face opposite the back hinge, and the little
foam stops where the mirror flips up.
Jon's instruction booklet is very well written, with some illustrations and
on the back a full-size template for the Olympus Pen, Canon Demi, and
Olympus XA series cameras, all of which I have a better than passing
familarity with... he's got them exactly right.
My opinion is that he's put together a very good product for a fine and fair
price, and I will be pleased to buy another kit when I've used this one up.
--
Jim Brokaw
From: Roger nospam@here.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: RF focusing (expensvie vs cheap 70's models)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002
Mike Elek wrote:
> Most rangefinders use several mirrors. Be extremely cautious when cleaning
> the gilded (or semitransparent) mirror. It often is a slightly different
> color. If you remove the coating, then the rangefinder will not work at all.
Mine was so badly corroded that I had to remove the silvering completely
and replace it with the reflective film. It worked well but I wouldn't
do it to an xpensive camera.
From: Roger nospam@here.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: RF focusing (expensvie vs cheap 70's models)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002
Mike Elek wrote:
> Roger,
>
> Did you Mylar? I've often thought of trying to use that with a couple of
> older cameras.
It was the reflective silver film sold for van rear windows (so people
can't see what's inside when it's parked). I don't know if it's
actually Mylar (isn't that what those silvery helium balloons are made
from?) but the stuff I had was called "Defender".
Cut a small piece out the same size as the RF mirror (which has to be
cleaned of any residual silvering first), wet the mirror with water and
a small amount of detergent, put the film on with tweezers and rub with
a Q-Tip to get the air bubbles out. It's incredibly fiddly but it does
work if you can't get a replacement mirror. What actually happens is
that the whole finder becomes a bit darker than originally, but the RF
spot is very bright. It makes focusing rather easy.
You may need to adjust the RF slightly to allow for the thickness of the
film. Just set the lens to infinity, pick a chimney or tree on the
horizon and check the RF images are combined properly. The adjustment
method is usually quite obvious, but fiddly again.
--
Roger
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Ronsonol
camfix55 at camfix@webtv.net wrote:
> Hi Guys;
> The use of "lighter fluid" as a cleaning solvent is advocated by Thomas
> Tomosy. Mr. Tomosy is the author of at least four books on camera repair. I
> feel hardly qualified to dispute his opinion. As a Hobbiest repair person I
> have found his books to be helpful. I understand that Mr Tomosy has been
> invited to join this group and after reading the last couple of days posts I
> think I understand why he declined.
> Best wishes. Everett
The problem with lighter fluid is that it is not all the same, and many of
them leave a residue. You're better off to go to a hardware store and buy
naptha. The best cleaning solvents, TFE etc., were all taken off the market
some time ago as carcinogens. I used to use those.
Bob
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002
From: sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Ronsonol
Bob Shell wrote:
>
>
> The problem with lighter fluid is that it is not all the same, and many of
> them leave a residue. You're better off to go to a hardware store and buy
> naptha.
Bob's right. It's available as "VM&P; Naphtha" in the paint department of most
any hardware store. Plus, you get a whole quart of the stuff for the same
price as the small can of a few ounces that you get as "lighter fluid."
"VM&P; Naphtha" also has some kind of defined chemical identity which means you
know what you are getting. "Lighter Fluid" can be a proprietary mixture of
flammable liquids.
Gene
Poon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002
From: "ned99992001" nedsnake@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Cleaners
In the past 30 plus years I have been repairing cameras I have used a
wide variety of cleaning agents, from a 50/50 blend of either and
alcohol to ethyl acetate (used for cleaning mirrors and lens glass)
to freon 113. Now that freon 113 is no longer available I have
switched to an electronic degreaser by Techspray. It is a very pure
solvent, which leaves little to no residue.
...
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Oil \ lubricant
Robert Mueller wrote:
>
> It would be tempting to use just any light oil to treat the AE-1 squeak but
> normal mineral oils have a troublesome property; they wander, crawling over
> the surface. This takes the oil away from where you want it and deposits it
> somewhere you definitely don't want it. Clock and watch oils often contain
> either animal oils selected for stability against oxidation or synthetic oils,
> and possibly a mixture.These are better in the above critical properties.
>
> Can anybody tell me more about getting rid of the squeak in the AE-1; as soon
> as I fix my tungsten cable problem I might have to deal with my own squeak?
>
> Bob
AE-1 Squeak (from Joe Lippencott's book "Care and Repair of Classic
Cameras" ISBN 0-9672079-0-8)
"To cure Canon A-series squeal, remove front apron (4 screws), remove
top left lens mount screw .... insert oiler --- deposit one drop of oil
where the flywheel contacts the nylon gears."
Paraphrased. Better if you can locate Joe's book and take a look at the
pictures. Very easy, but incredibly easy to totally screw up the camera
if done wrong.
Regards,
Marv
From: Stephe kievgurl@yahoo.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Zeiss Ikonta lens element removal
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002
donjames@spamless.adelphia.net (Don James) wrote:
>I'm trying to remove the lens elements from an Ikonta 521/16 (Tessar
>in Compur-Rapid) to clean the glass and the shutter, but the inner
>element isn't cooperating. Does this element simply need to be
>unscrewed, or have I missed something in my disassembly? If it's just
>frozen up, any suggestions for freeing it? I'd leave it in place, but
>it's blocking access to the shutter, which is sticky at 1/25 and
>slower and needs some work.
I assume you mean the fixed front element? If so, this guy is screwed
is REAL tight so as not to unscrew when you are focusing. Nothing
tricky, just takes some force to unscrew it and it needs to be
retightended real tight as well. These shutters are simple to get
going as they normally just need a little lube to the slow speed gear
shafts.
http://stephe_2.tripod.com/shuttercla.htm
Stacey
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Mylar shutter curtains??
Wayne
A friend of mine tried to use Mylar sheets (painted black) to replace the torn
steel foil shutters in two of our Kiev-88. We didn't have any of the original
metal curtain around, so he attempted using Mylar. They worked for few
cocking/firing cycles and at that, the tension couldn't be set correctly so
that the shutters would open at both lower and higher speeds. Traditional
cloth shutters made our cameras work again, and they're still working to this
day. There is something about the physical specs of Mylar which doesn't make
it an ideal substitute.
Good old rubberised cloth is still best for the focal plane shutters in these
cameras. There was an old ad I read from a 1940s magazine placed by a company
who offered to replace cloth curtains in Leicas and Detrolas with "neoprene".
The fact that camera makers were still using vulcanised cloth even long after
neoprene substitutes were available should tell how [un]feasible these
alternatives were.
Metal foil curtains for horizontal FP shutters were used by Canon in their
later RF lines, and by Nikon in their later RF as well as F SLRs. Even Canon
wasn't fully successful as their foil curtains got wrinkled in time. Nikon at
least used an embossed material which probably prevented it from getting as
crumpled as the shutters on say, a well-used Canon 7 when seen today. Given
these metal foil curtain's specs, they would probably be impossible to run
correctly on a shutter mechanism designed for cloth materials.
Kiev 88s use thin ribbed steel foil. Whether or not this material is one cause
of this camera's shutter problems is a question.
Jay
ssiancamera-user@beststuff.com wrote:
>Last night was the weekly meeting of the ICFSUSWR chapter (Idaho Cameras of
>the Former Soviet Union and Small Watch Repair). I am happy to report that
>both members were in on-line attendance (Doug and me).
>
>Anyway, during the course of the meeting the discussion turned to shutter
>curtain material. Curtians need to be durable, flexible and as light as
>possible. We wondered if anyone has tried using Mylar for that purpose. The
>first question is would be if there is such a thing as opaque Mylar? Second,
>would it work for shutter curtains and if not, why?
>
>Has anyone explored that possibility?
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: "rod_kendall" ken224@tip.csiro.au
Subject: Re: Newbie needs advice and help
Additional description can be found on:
http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/camrep.faq.html
Good luck
Rod
...
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Canonet QL17 GIII..... Secret Passage To The Shutter
I recently picked up a QL17 GIII from Ebay for about 5 dollars. The camera is
in perfect condtion except for the usual stuck, greasy shutter syndrome.
While struggling to get the rear lens element off in order to do the
traditional Ronsonol/naptha rinse, I poured a bit of Ronsonal over the
retainer ring that holds the rear element in place. I thought that it might
run down between the threads and help loosen up the retainer ring.
As I pondered the situation (a very tightly screwed in retainer ring)I
noticed that the Ronsonol was starting to disappear. It had migrated downward
onto the shutter blades. They were wet with Ronsonol.
I waited for a while, then stroked the film advance lever and pressed the
shutter release button. To my amazement, the shutter worked perfectly!
I added another approximately 1/3 ml. of Ronsonol to the rapidly disappearing
puddle on the rear lens element and waited a while longer.
I exercised the shutter 10 or 12 times.
The shutter and aperture blades were now operating freely and perfectly.
After allowing the Ronsonol to evaporate overnight, I again exercised the
shutter. It operated perfectly. I decided not the do the usual shutter
cleansing operation on this camera.
Have I discovered something?
Roland F. Harriston
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: Has anyone made shutter material (while I wait for mine to ship)
Vick
Yes, I make the shutter cloth I use for replacements. Synthetic silk, coated
with rubberised textile paint. Very light-tight, in fact, a small electronic
flash can be fired close to the cloth and its light won't go through it. It's
hard to describe the exact material and process, since the materials themselves
may be called by something else in other places, and they are not branded to
begin with. One batch of shutter cloth I made even has one side RED and the
other black. Have you seen the site yet? There is an extensive description
of shutter replacement there, which could be used with the Leica. The shutter
cloth shown there is the material I made.
Jay
[Ed. note: I also use one of these pens on cleaning corrosion on contacts...]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002
From: "Jannes Slot" jslot@xs4all.nl
Subject: Re: Removing rust
Jose,
I use for small pieces of rust that need to be removed from anything that can
rust a glassfibre pen.
They can be bought at drawing stores or electronic component shops.
If your camera is all rusted, use the glassfibre pen only for the small edges,
and use long vessel steelwool for the rest. Next you need is polishing, if you
want to.
Jannes
...
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002
From: Philip willarney pwillarney@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Sources for solenoid
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
--- DaiNaka@aol.com wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> Does anyone know any cheap sources for solenoids?
..snip..
try all electronics (http://www.allcorp.com/) or other
electronics surplus places -- they usually have some.
-- p
From: rpn1@cornell.edu (Neuman - Ruether)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Zoom Creep Remedy?
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003
"Darby OGill" insuspense@hotmail.com wrote:
>I am looking into the Nikon E-series zooms with the idea of getting a decent
>"bargain" at KEH. They have a couple listed with "loose zoom". A thread I
>saw at D.Ruethers excellent collection of posts mentioned an "easy fix" for
>loose zooms without dismantling the lens but it didn't spell out the fix.
>I'm hoping someone would outline this fix for me and tell how effective they
>found it. Thank you, Darby
I don't remember the particular post, but one method that
appeared effective was to slide back the zoom ring (assuming
there are screws under the rubber that can be removed to
permit this), and place 3-4 strips of high-quality tape
lengthwise along the barrel to effectively increase its
diameter slightly - but if you get this far, removing the
zoom ring completely, and replacing the felt on its inside
surface would serve best... BTW, since "zoom creep" is
rarely a problem with the lens used hand-held, confining
its use to this solves the problem easily...;-)
David Ruether
rpn1@cornell.edu
http://www.ferrario.com/ruether
From russian camera mailing list:
From: "Vern Rogers" vlrogers6@attbi.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003
Subject: [Russiancamera] RE: Cleaning & lubing lenses [was Re: Who's rogers_photo?]
David,
Thank you for the information. It just may encourage me one of these days
to try. I was wondering about the Industar 22 also, especially stiff focus.
But I was glad to hear that you didn't think the Jupiter 8 to be extremely
difficult.
Vern
Vernon L Rogers
Springfield OR
vlrogers6@attbi.com
http://www.fotabug.com/
-----Original Message-----
Don't be (scared of taking apart lenses to clean them). Or I should say,
within reason.
Speaking from (recent) experience, the following lenses are super-simple to
get apart, clean, lube and get back together properly:
o Industar-61
o Jupiter-8
The Jupiter-3 is a little more difficult--I'd say it's like a jigsaw puzzle,
with several wrong ways and one right way to put it back together.
I'd stay away from dismantling a Jupiter-9. (This from a guy who's done just
that, and is waiting for instructions on how to reassemble it.) It's more
like a Rubik's Cube. And I'm STILL waiting for someone to tell me just how
you get a Jupiter-12 apart; someone sent me a link to a web page where a guy
took a pair of channel-lock pliers to his and got it into 3 pieces, and
successfully reassembled it; thanks, but no thanks!
I disassembled the two lenses mentioned above, soaked the helicoid rings in
paint thinner (NOT paint remover), cleaned them well, then greased them with
white lithium grease. They now turn as silkily-smooth as my Canon SLR
lenses.
While you're at it, you can disassemble some of the glass to get out the
inevitable dust-between-elements. Clean the front & back surfaces (with
denatured alcohol & lens tissue--CAREFULLY!) and you'll have some really
nice lenses to shoot through.
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] RE: Cleaning & lubing lenses [was Re: Who's rogers_photo?]
From: Wayne Cornell
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003
From: Winfried Buechsenschuetz w-buechsenschuetz@gmx.de
Subject: RE: Yashica Lynx 14
Even if it is not working at all, the Yashica Lynx cameras are quite
easy to repair. Quite often they suffer from rotten battery contacts
and/or wires. Sometimes the shutters get stuck but this is not a very
difficult job. Get some mild electronic contact cleaner to clean the
resistor tracks inside the lens barrel when you disassemble it to get to
the shutter. You should use tuner cleaner only, standard contact cleaner
may dissolve the resistor tracks.
Otherwise, it is a giant camera. The lens is a great performer even wide
open.
Winfried
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Camera Restoration
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002
This may be old hat to some on the NG, but I am going to pass it along.
I had been restoring a Gundlatch-Manhattan 4x5 view camera. The leather
was a total loss so I carefully removed it with a sparse wet-down of hot
water. Unfortunately, some of the water leaked into the camera interior
and produced a white "bloom" on the camera interior's pristine cherry
finish. Much reading indicated that the cherry interior was now a total
mess and I would have to strip and re-finish it. I put the camera away
for a year as other things had priority.
Last night, I pulled the Gundlatch out and took another look at it - the
white "bloom" was still there. I have (over the years) used common brake
fluid as a solvent and wondered if the brake fluid would dissolve the
old varnish in a "minimum impact" way. Brake fluid was carefully applied
with a piece of surgical gauze over the cherry interior, let stand for
several minutes, then wiped off with a larger piece of lint-free cloth.
To my complete surprise, the white "bloom" was gone and the cherry
finish was intact! A bit of furniture polish and I was home free.
If you are going to try this method of restoration, use common sense.
I am guarantee-ing nothing, and you are on your own. Have your attorney
bother someone else.
Regards,
Marv
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002
From: Robert Feinman robertdfeinman@netscape.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Camera Restoration
It's quite possible that a camera this old was finished in shellac.
This dissolves in alcohol and a common technique to fix bloom is to
apply a solvent to soften the finish and let it reform.
Lots of old pianos are refinished this way when the suface crazes.
The clue is that water affected the finish, varnish is not hurt by water
by shellac is.
Marv Soloff wrote:
> This may be old hat to some on the NG, but I am going to pass it along.
> I had been restoring a Gundlatch-Manhattan 4x5 view camera. The leather
> Regards,
>
> Marv
--
Robert D Feinman
robertdfeinman@netscape.net
Landscapes, Cityscapes, Panoramic Photographs: http://robertdfeinman.com
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Ronsonol
Peter Wallage at peterwallage@btinternet.com wrote:
> I've been told by a very experienced professional camera repairer
> that Compurs and Prontors need only the very minimum of
> lubrication with a good watch oil, and even that only on the pivots
> of the two escapements. The other pivots move so little they
> don't need oil. The blades, he told me, should always run dry.
That is correct. I have the Compur shop manuals and this is what they
recommend. The blades can be polished clean by putting the end of a flat
dowell of proper diameter against them on one side and rubbing the other
side with an oil-free chamois. This is directly from the manual.
Bob
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Repairing pinholes in cloth shutters
rburkart@cybermation.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I recently obtained an Exacta Varex IIa in excellent condition. The only
> problem I noticed recently are about 5 pinholes in the first curtain (the
> one exposed when the camera is not cocked). Is anyone aware of a method of
> sealing these holes? The curtains in all other respects are in excellent
> condition.
A flexible, opaque material is needed. There are several. Rubber
patching compound, black in color and coming in the form of a paste,
is one possibility. One could use Pliobond or similar cement, allow
it to totally dry, and then apply black paint to the patch so it is
opaque.
On a Canon IV-SB, I used a product called "Liquid Tape," an opaque,
black vinyl compound sold by GC through electronics parts suppliers.
This Canon has not been used heavily, and neither would I expect
your Exakta to be used heavily; but it has been used occasionally
and the Liquid Tape is still intact and the repair is holding up,
ten years after I applied it.
At least you will have an easier time fixing the Exakta's pinholes
than I had with the Canon, which, like a Leica SM body, must have
its body shell removed to access the back side of the shutter curtain!
Good Luck!
-Gene Poon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: Bruce Feist bfeist@flock.org
Subject: Re: Repairing pinholes in cloth shutters
rburkart@cybermation.com wrote:
>I recently obtained an Exacta Varex IIa in excellent condition. The only
>problem I noticed recently are about 5 pinholes in the first curtain (the
>one exposed when the camera is not cocked). Is anyone aware of a method of
>sealing these holes?
>
>
Fabric paint can be used to repair pinhole damage. I've done so with an
old Soviet Leica copy, and it worked well.
Bruce Feist
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Re: Newbie needs advice and help
M.Z. Beg wrote:
> Hi, thanks for your reply and yes please for those sketches of yours. I
> appreciate it very much. Would Isopropanol do.
You would probably prefer to use a more active solvent such as
Naphtha. In the USA it is available in hardware and paint stores as
"VM&P; Naphtha" for about $3-4 a quart can.
-Gene Poon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002
From: Bruce Feist bfeist@flock.org
Subject: Re: spare parts to Russian cameras
There's a Yahoo group/mailing list especially for such things. Check
out http://groups.yahoo.com/group/russian_camera_parts .
Bruce Feist
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: Repairing pinholes in cloth shutters
Try black textile paint.
...
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002
From: Gordon Moat moat@attglobal.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: ebay description versus reality
I really think the only valid statements about these items are when
someone states they do not know if it works, or if they can provide
photos they have taken with the camera (to prove the level of
function/disfunction).
I got an AGFA/Ansco 6 by 9 recently. The seller stated that all the
knobs seemed to turn, though he did not know if the camera worked. I
found similar problems to yours, though the camera looked immaculate
when it arrived. At least with these AGFA models, they do not command
the high prices of old Zeiss and Voigtl,nder gear. I think I would be
pissed to spend a fortune on one of those, and get a non-working item,
after thinking it would work.
With the stuck focus ring, I also had both elements unscrew from the
shutter. Then I had to get the two front elements apart. I used some
green art erasers, denatured alcohol, and a pad of Sorbathane rubber.
Without using any pliers, it was possible to unscrew the elements with
the rubber pad and eraser giving enough friction for good grip. This
enabled no marks to occur on either lens element. I soaked the items in
the alcohol overnight for good measure.
Upon reassemble, the focusing element was loose, as you described. I put
a small dab of Vaseline on the threads, then assembled the two again,
and got just enough friction for them to hold focus. I also used a
ground glass and loupe to reset the focus distances.
The bellows had many small pinholes, though they were easily sealed. A
new bellows would be the best option, but I am still trying to find
reasonably cheap material for this, and then make my own.
The shutter was stuck when the camera arrived. I had to partially
disassemble this and then used the alcohol again to clean everything. I
used small paint brushes and tweezers to clean the shutter blades, then
put it all back together. The shutter speeds all tested fairly accurate.
The toughest part was getting one spring back into position, which took
four tries.
I just shot some film with this. I used my Sekonic L-358 for the
exposure settings, and my guesstimate for distance focus. The focus ring
is probably more accurate than I am, but I did manage to get nicely
focused shots. An accessory rangefinder might help though.
Bottom line, these are fun cameras, but you should not spend too much
money on them. Time is up to you, though I spent six hours over two days
getting the AGFA camera working again. If anyone looks for more of these
on EBAY, try to get one that is complete, and expect it to be frozen
focus. Unless you want to tackle a shutter (other than cleaning), find a
working shutter example.
All this makes me want to set up a repair page on my web site. The few
sites I found showing much about these seem to involve steps that may
damage the camera (like pliers and hose clamps). There is some great
information on the internet about these folders, but also some not so
good.
So how did the first photos look? Were you surprised? Good or bad?
Ciao!
Gordon Moat
Alliance Graphique Studio
http://www.allgstudio.com/gallery.html
From: rgivan@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: ebay description versus reality
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002
moat@attglobal.net (Gordon
Moat) wrote:
> All this makes me want to set up a repair page on my web site. The few
> sites I found showing much about these seem to involve steps that may
> damage the camera (like pliers and hose clamps). There is some great
> information on the internet about these folders, but also some not so
> good.
Without wishing to beat my drum too much - I have some repair info on old
Agfas on my site already:
http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/repair.html
I'll admit I'm not the most experienced repair person around - but am
curious to know if anything listed there is considered bad advice - or
people have found not to work. Generally I get good feedback - but after
reading this thread - I'm interested in knowing.
Thanks
:-)
Roland.
http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Re: Cleaning Ratty Aluminum Lens Barrels
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
I've looked all through my bookmarks and I can't seem
to find a website with that information.
I have disassembled and lubed (also succesfully
reassembled) several Jupiter-8s. They are quite easy,
only a step in complexity above an Industar 22.
This applies only to LTM Jupiter-8's. Contax/Kiev
Jupiter-8s are very different!
The optical block is separate from the focusing
mechanism. To lube the focusing helical, first look at
the back of the lens. You will see three screws (heads
face the camera lens flange when it is mounted). Mark
the position of the ring held in by these screws and
remove them. The hole in the ring for the lens is not
perfectly centered, and sometimes there is only one
way to correctly re-install this ring. Marking saves
the trial and error step.
Next remove the three screws holding in the focusing
ring and slide this off.
Next remove the three screws holding in the f-stop
marked ring and slide this off.
There is an internal blocking screw which serves as a
focus stop. Remove this.
Unscrew the remainder of the lens from the focusing
helical. Mark the point at which it comes off the
helical threads. On this lens there is only one entry
point. It is sometimes a little narrow here and must
be hit precisely when reassembling.
Clean the old grease off and re-lube.
Reassemble in reverse order from disassembly.
When you replace the back ring (the first thing you
took off) you might experience some binding of the
focus. This back ring slides on a bed of grease. If it
binds, uniformly back off the screws about 1/8 of a
turn. These screws can't fall off because they are
backed into the lens flange when the lens is mounted.
When you are happy with the movement, paint some
fingernail polish over those particuular screwheads to
lock them in place.
If you want to lube the iris movement, see Matt
Dentonm's webpage on the Zorki-4. He describes how to
do the front end of the lens. I have never needed to
do this.
http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/zorki_4.html
Good luck!
-Paul
--- kievnut kievnut@yahoo.com.au wrote:
> Hi Paul,
>
> Is there any web site/picture showing how to
> dis-assemble the Jupiter lens?
> I saw it once on a Japanese web site but I forgot to
> bookmark it!
>
> Thanks.
>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Re: Cleaning Ratty Aluminum Lens Barrels
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
I think I found what you are looking for. There is a
photo of a disassembled Industar which is identical to
the Jupiter-8 on Matt Denton's webpage.
http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/fed_2.html
Many of the Industar 26s and 26Ms that came with
Fed-2s
are identical in mechanical construction to the
Jupiter-8 LTM. There is one version of I-26M that
appears to be identical to a line Jupiter-8's the only
visible difference is the size of the front element
and the maximum aperture.
-Paul
...
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Re: Cleaning Ratty Aluminum Lens Barrels
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
You may be thinking about this site instead.
http://www.fedka.com/~jay/
-Paul
--- "nicha@in.gr" nicha@in.gr wrote:
> Tom tiger has also info on dissasembling, relubing
> and polishing an
> Industar-50 lens on his website (cant remember the
> URL though..)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Re: Cleaning Ratty Aluminum Lens Barrels
From: Tom Tiger tomtiger@xs4all.nl
www.tomtiger.net ;-)
>Tom tiger has also info on dissasembling, relubing and polishing an
>Industar-50 lens on his website (cant remember the URL though..)
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003
From: "Barry Velostigmat" velostigmat@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning haze from front element of Vivitar 24mm
In general the front element is retained by a ring that screws into the
filter threads. If the ring has slots cut in it, you use a spanner wrench
(see microtools.com) if not, you improvise a tool using a rubber ring with
the same outside diameter as the inside of the filter threads. You turn this
rubber ring with a pipe or tube of similar diameter by means of friction.
For example I recently removed the front element of my kiron zoom, which has
a 55mm diameter using a 55mm diameter "circle" cut from an old inner tube
and a Pentax K-mount rear lens end cap. By placing the lens cap open side
against the rubber ring, pressing and turning to the left, the retaining
ring loosened, and I was able to remove the front element.
It turned out that this lens has the front element in two cemented together
pieces. The cement had fogged so I could not clean the haze.
You will probably be luckier.
Resist the temptation to use a hammer and punch on the retaining ring slots.
It's entirely too easy to slip and trash the lens.
Barry
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Cleaning haze from front element of Vivitar 24mm
...
Barry -- I believe there has been some discussion here in the past regarding
cemented lens elements... sometimes you can heat them gently and the cement
will melt, allowing the elements to be separated. You could then clean them
and re-cement them using a UV-cure optical cement. I believe this UV cement
is available from Edmund Scientific among other places.
This won't work with all cemented elements, but if the lens is otherwise
useless, it might. If not, you have a source for parts if the rest of the
lens is OK. I bought a broken Olympus 24/2.8 lens to repair another which I
had dropped shattering the rear element... there is sometimes a market for
'broken' lenses.
Along those lines, I have two Olympus fisheye lenses (the 8mm circle-image
and the 16mm full-frame)in otherwise good shape which need the rearmost
elements (those closest to the film). Since fisheye lenses have large
bulgeing front elements I keep hoping I will be able to find one with a
shattered front element but a good rear element set... anyone who knows
where I can find these elements I will pay a good reward for being able to
get them.
--
Jim Brokaw
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003
From: hmascience no_reply@yahoogroups.com
To: classic35mmcompacts@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Classic 35mm Compacts] Re: Rangefinder adjustment
--- In classic35mmcompacts@yahoogroups.com, "Manuel Lingo" manuel_lingo@y... wrote:
> I got my Minolta Hi-Matic F today.
[litany of probs snipped...]
> The Hi-Matic is working now, but I found out that the rangefinder is off.
> It won't focus at infinity.(You get a fous but the fousing ring says 16 feet
> Is there any way to adjust this rangefinder?
> I guess a discription of any compact rangefinder will help,
> because thy are pretty much the same.
Model-specific:
Agfa Isolette III: http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/radjust.html
Several are given for former-Soviet rangefinders at various sites.
Konica Auto S1.6, which might have enough...
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/konicaautos.html
Canonet: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html
General repairs:
You could join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/camera-fix/
Search through http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/
Finally, for that "infinity target", here's a cute trick:
http://members.tripod.com/rick_oleson/index-123.html
Good luck. I have a Konica Augo S2 with a shorn aperture blade pin
(the blade flops around depending the camera angle). There's a
repair described on the Internet, but it also includes the
words "hardest repair possible" ... :-(
I expect it'll either continue to sit on the shelf daring me to try
to fix it or off to e-bay...
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Re: General camera repair stuff
scoop said:
>You consider what a lot of watchmakers do and put a piece of cloth on your
>work surface. A dish towel works nicely. Then when (not if) you drop parts
>and screws, they usually stay where they landed and don't bounce or roll of
>into the distance.
Another trick (which I've regretablly never done, but intend to do soon) is
to rig up a piece of cloth at the edge of the desk/benchtop, with an
elastic strip at the outer edge of the cloth. As you sit down to work, it
hugs around your torso, blocking the path to the floor.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003
From: "hans_bader" hans.bader@t-online.de
Subject: Relubrification of helical focusing threads
Hi to all!
As a general guide I have just added a pictorial description (36
pics) on disassembly, cleaning, relubrification and reassembly of a
2.0/50 mm Pancolar for an EXACTA VX 1000 in the file section
(Files/Special Lubricant for Helical Threads in Camera Lenses/Relube
instructions). It may be of help to beginners.
Best regards, Hans Bader
From nikon MF mailing list:
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003
From: "John O. Newell" jnewell@attbi.com
Subject: Ultrasonic cleaning - report
I recently came across some cheap ($10) E2 screens and
thought I'd experiement to answer my own earlier question
about ultrasonic cleaning. I figured I'd give 'destructive
testing' a try -- not much to lose. The conclusion is that
after about 3 minutes in the u/s cleaner, the screen was
noticeably cleaner. 20 minutes in the cleaner did not make
it any cleaner, but did not harm the focusing screen either,
as far as I can tell. So much for destructive testing.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003
From: "keith" keith@cyberverse.com
Subject: RE: What Tools for Camera Repair?
After many recommendations from others in this group, I can now recommend at
least for the best jeweler screwdrivers, you do a search at
www.micro-tools.com for the Wiha 26190, 75192, 28091, & 27390 sets. They
have a competitive price. Check www.wihatools.com for more options
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003
From: "ned99992001" nedsnake@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: What Tools for Camera Repair?
...
I would start with the following, which can be obtained from
www.micro-tools.com :
Niwa handle along with at least one each of the 1.7mm and 2.0mm
blades. These are cross point blades, which will better fit the
screws than a phillips blade. The Wiha flat blade drivers are a good
choice.
Next a good pair of non-magnetic tweezers, a spanner with several
tips, pliers as you need them. You can also make many of the special
tools you need from pliers and wide blade screwdrivers or other
material. One thing to remember, service manuals are written with the
assumption that the repairman knows the equipment he's working on.
Mike
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: 11 Mar 2003
From: camera-fix
Subject: New file uploaded to camera-fix
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the camera-fix
group.
File : /Invitation to Join The Camera Repair WebRing.doc
Uploaded by : lensincs lensinc@lensinc.net
Description : An Invitation to Webmasters and Camera Hobbyists to Join The Camera Repair WebRing
You can access this file at the URL
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/camera-fix/files/Invitation%20to%20Join%20The%20Camera%20Repair%20WebRing.doc
To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files
Regards,
lensincs
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Reconditioning a Graflex 4x5
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003
"Al Denelsbeck" AL@wading-in.net wrote
> Hello All,
>
> I, a confirmed 35mm junkie, have been presented with a
Graflex Graphic
> View 4x5 camera, no other identifying marks on it. Rather
odd wavy
> faint-green finish to it (zinc-oxide?), full movement, 16"
rail (and feel
> free to pick on me if I get any terminology wrong).
This is a Graphic View II, the second model with longer
bellows and center tilts. A very desirable and practical
camera.
> It was stored rather poorly, and shows it. Some
corrosion on the metal,
> mostly cosmetic. Bellows seems okay, slight crackling when
opened, doesn't
> seem to have dry-rotted or mildewed to any extent.
Ground-glass is a bit
> mottled. Lenses (three of them, one unmounted)
*shamefully* uncared for,
> though two work (one sticks a little at long shutter
speeds) and the glass
> doesn't appear more than dusty.
>
The mottled ground glass will respond to cleaning. Remove
it and clean in diswashing detergent and warm water. The
camera may have an Ektalite field lens, supplied on some
Graphic backs. This is a plastic Fresnel lens. On Graphic
cameras it goes under the ground glass. This is also cleaned
as above.
> I'm not ready to put any money into this for a proper
restoration, but
> don't mind sinking the time. Anyone have any suggestions,
websites, etc.
> they would like to provide?
http://www.graflex.org Will get some information on the
Graphic View and a lot of general info on Graflex made
cameras.
> Specifically, I know I can't restore the finish, but
would a careful
> cleaning of the corrosion, followed by an acrylic
clearcoat, be out of line?
>
The original finish is hamertone gray. It should clean up
with regular household cleaner like Formula 409.
> How about the bellows? Anything to treat it with to
restore suppleness
> and prevent further degradation?
>
Not much. The bellows on Graphic View cameras (both
models) are synthetic material. It does not age much and is
generally very tough. You an clean it with the warm water
and dishwashing detergent on a damp cloth. Nothing will make
the plastic more supple if it has dried out. Its possible
that new bellows may be avialable, see below.
> The lenses are an Ilex 215mm f6.3 (very clean and
working fine); a
> Linhof 120mm f6.8 (cocking mechanism frozen); and an
unmounted Ilex f6.3 of
> unknown focal length (marked "5x7 Bausch - Lomb Tessar
Series IIb. Pat. Feb
> 24 1903. No 3134753" around lens ring, with a sticky
shutter wind, body
> badly corroded). I'm not inclined to pull them apart to
clean interior
> surfaces if they have any significant value as is, but
have no problems with
> it if someone tells me they're worth twenty bucks in
crappy condition.
The Ilex 215mm lens is a good commercial Tessar type. Not
quite up to the Kodak Commercial Ektar but still very
respectible.
The Linhof lens is probably a Schneider Super-Angulon in
a #00 Synchro-Compur. These are very good wide angle lenses.
The shutter needs to be cleaned. It may be jammed because it
is so dirty its stuck. Try Steve Grimes, listed below, for
getting it, and your Ilex shutters, overhauled.
The last lens is not an Ilex lens, its in an Ilex shutter.
Its a Bausch & Lomb Series IIb Tessar. The focal length of
the 5x7 lens is 7-1/16 inches. I have no B&L; serial number
information to can't date it. However, B&L; Tessar and Protar
lenses made before 1917 are marked Bausch & Lomb-Zeiss. the
Zeiss was dropped on the entry of the USA to WW-1 and never
returned.
The Ilex shutter may be the original. If its the type set
with a small dial at the top it may not be repairable. If it
has the speed settings on a ring it can be restored. Again,
contact Steve Grimes about Ilex shutters.
B&L; Tessars are very good lenses. The f/6.3 versions,
which were cheaper than the f/4.5 ones have somewhat larger
coverage and may actually be a littlesharper. If this lens
is hazy or dirty inside the front cell has a back cap which
unscrews without any special tools. The inside surfaces can
be cleaned with lens cleaner or "streak-free" type window
cleaner. this will do wonders for the contrast.
> Anyone know what kind of rough value this setup has?
Collectible, rare,
> anything of the sort? Better if it's working, or if I
don't mess with it?
This is a good practical setup. Graphic View II cameras
are pretty common so don't have a high value. The value
depends on condition. The lenses are good but not
outstanding, again its hard to guess at value, certainly not
without seeing them. Lenses with the Linhof name on them
were sold by Linhof and went through Linhof's QC inspection.
They tend to be less variable in quality than the same
lenses sold directly by the manufacturer and so worth a
little more, again depending on condition. Prices also vary
widely with location. Here in Los Angeles, values tend to be
low because there is a plethora of equipment available.
I would say that the cost of getting the shutters cleaned
and cleaning up the camera are worth it if you want to use
it.
My guess, and its only a guess, is perhaps $200 to $300 US
for the lot.
> Thanks for any and all advice!
>
> - Al.
> Online photo gallery at www.wading-in.net
For repair of Graflex made equipment talk to:
Fred Lustig
4790 Caughlin Pkwy
#433
Reno, NV
89509
1 775 746 0111
Graflex Parts and Service
Fred may have replacement bellows. If so he will probably
want to replace them rather than sell you just the bellows.
He will overhaul the entire camera while he has it. Talk to
him about prices. He also repairs some types of shutters.
Fred has no e-mail or web site.
For shutters see Steve Grimes:
http://www.skgrimes.com
His web site has a section on Ilex shutters. It will take
some poking around to find it but its there.
Another shutter guy of good repute is:
Paul Ebel
Shutter Repair
1715 778 4372
w230 Terrace Street, Box 86; Spring Valley, WI 54767.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Universal Heliar needs maintenance
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003
"Georges LALOIRE" laloire@freegates.be wrote
> My Universal Heliar needs cleaning inside because of paint coming off
> and a hard soft-focus ring.
> After 70 years, I don't think Voigtl,nder can be blamed.
> Has someone experience about opening this kind of lens ?
> People at repair shops here ( Belgium ) looked at me as if I were ET
> saying " Phone home. " when I asked, so I'll do it myself if it is not
> too difficult.
> Thanks.
> Georges
You may be able to do it yourself. See how the lens is
mounted. The front cell has the front and the center element
in it. Larger lenses often have caps on the back to retain
the center lens. These caps screw off. Once off the lens
will either fall out when the cell is turned upside down or
you can lift it out using sticky tape. Once out you can
clean out the cell and also clean the inside surfaces of the
glass. The front element is likely held in by a threaded
ring on the front. Small lenses usually do not have the back
cap and you must unscrew the front retaining ring. This is
done with a friction tool. This is simply a tube of the
right diameter with sticky rubber on the end of it. The
front threads are often painted over. The paint will come
off with Acetone and a cotton swab. Be very careful since
the front element of a Heliar is cemented and Acetone will
attack the cement.
Most small lenses are constructed this way. Old Zeiss
Tessars of 135mm focal length have back caps, Kodak used
caps on 152mm and longer lenses.
The best paint for renewing internal cell surfaces and
edge painting of elements is a spray paint sold in the USA
under the Krylon name: Krylon Ultra-Flat Black. I don't know
if its available in Europe. If so its used by spraying a
little into a small container and applying with a brush.
The rear element of the Heliar is probably not removable
from its cell in any easy way. This is typical of Tessar,
Triplet, and Heliar types with a single or cemented
component in the rear. The glass is permanently mounted by
spinning or burnishing a lip down over it. Removing the
element requires making a cap to fit the cell. It is
possible to cement elements in place but its not the best
method. About the only reason for removing these elements is
to recement them.
Blow out the lens and then clean the glass with a good
lens cleaner or 99% Isopropyl alcohol. Many old lenses get a
coating of haze inside the cells. The haze destroys the
contrast of the lens but is easy to get off once the cell is
open. Many older lenses thought to have poor contrast
because they are not coated are actually just dirty. The
haze has a much stronger effect on the image than you would
think just by looking through the lens. Check for haze by
shining a flashlight through the lens. This will also often
show up bad cement.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "Kerry L. Thalmann" largeformat@thalmann.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Universal Heliar needs maintenance
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003
"Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com wrote
> You may be able to do it yourself. See how the lens is
> mounted. The front cell has the front and the center element
> in it. Larger lenses often have caps on the back to retain
> the center lens. These caps screw off. Once off the lens
> will either fall out when the cell is turned upside down or
> you can lift it out using sticky tape. Once out you can
> clean out the cell and also clean the inside surfaces of the
> glass. The front element is likely held in by a threaded
> ring on the front. Small lenses usually do not have the back
> cap and you must unscrew the front retaining ring. This is
> done with a friction tool. This is simply a tube of the
> right diameter with sticky rubber on the end of it. The
> front threads are often painted over. The paint will come
> off with Acetone and a cotton swab. Be very careful since
> the front element of a Heliar is cemented and Acetone will
> attack the cement.
> Most small lenses are constructed this way. Old Zeiss
> Tessars of 135mm focal length have back caps, Kodak used
> caps on 152mm and longer lenses.
> The best paint for renewing internal cell surfaces and
> edge painting of elements is a spray paint sold in the USA
> under the Krylon name: Krylon Ultra-Flat Black. I don't know
> if its available in Europe. If so its used by spraying a
> little into a small container and applying with a brush.
> The rear element of the Heliar is probably not removable
> from its cell in any easy way. This is typical of Tessar,
> Triplet, and Heliar types with a single or cemented
> component in the rear. The glass is permanently mounted by
> spinning or burnishing a lip down over it. Removing the
> element requires making a cap to fit the cell. It is
> possible to cement elements in place but its not the best
> method. About the only reason for removing these elements is
> to recement them.
> Blow out the lens and then clean the glass with a good
> lens cleaner or 99% Isopropyl alcohol. Many old lenses get a
> coating of haze inside the cells. The haze destroys the
> contrast of the lens but is easy to get off once the cell is
> open. Many older lenses thought to have poor contrast
> because they are not coated are actually just dirty. The
> haze has a much stronger effect on the image than you would
> think just by looking through the lens. Check for haze by
> shining a flashlight through the lens. This will also often
> show up bad cement.
Richard,
As always, some very helpful and usefal advice. As I find myself in a
similar situation, I appreciate your generous sharing. I also have a
Universal Heliar in need of a good internal cleaning. Mine is a 48cm f4.5
Universal Heliar that seems to date from the late 1920s. It is uncoated, of
course, but other than a layer of haze on the internal element surfaces, it
looks like new (even came in the original case). As one of about 200
projects I seem to be juggling these days, I'd like to use it to create some
portraits of my family members. As I primarily shoot landscapes, this is a
stretch for me. But as a photographer, I have always wanted to create
beautiful heirloom quality images of my loved ones. The goal would be
contact printed platinum/palladium prints made on hand coated paper -
something lovingly made with my own hands. But I digress...
I do have a question specifically related to the repair of my Universal
Heliar. As you know, the soft focus effect of the Universal Heliar can be
varied by moving the center element forward and backwards. This is
accomplished by turning a ring around the front of the barrel that is
labeled 1 - 5 indicating the various degress of softness. Turning this ring
requires a good deal of effort, especially on my 48cm model, which is an
enormous beast (I don't recall the weight of my lens off the top of my head,
but it's somewhere in the 12 - 14 lb. range). There are two small
nickel-plated brass, knurled knobs that screw into this ring.
Unfortunately, these knobs were broken off my lens during shipping to me
from Lithuania. Does anyone know of a source for original replacement
knobs? I know Zeiss bought Voightlander back in the 1960s and continued to
produce the Universal Heliar until about 1970. In promotional literature
from this time, the Universal Heliars still seem to use these same two knobs
for adjusting the soft focus ring. Does anyone have contact information for
the Zeiss parts or service department on the off chance thay might still
stock replacement parts for a lens they discontinued over 30 years ago. I
tried sending email to Zeiss from the link on their web site requesting info
on the Universal Heliar, but never received a response. The simplest option
would be to just try to get a stock knob of proper thread size from someone
like Reid Tool Supply. This assumes I can get something in the right size
(or tap new threads), and they will not match the original style/finish, but
it would be functional. As a last resort, I could have copies made from the
broken originals (I still have all the parts). This would be an expensive
proposition for just two such knobs. Anybody else out there have a
Universal Heliar in need of replacement knobs?
Kerry
[Ed. note: a nifty trick, thanks Jon!]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Tools
I think these fellows have covered the basic tools,
although one I use frequently is a pointed tip
spanner. Here's a trick I learned in watch repair.
On your work surface (or even on a piece of
cardboard), fix a piece of wide masking tape--sticky
side up. This will be your no-fail system for keeping
things straight: Attach the items to the sticky tape
in the order you remove them. (example--cocking lever
screw, warped washer, flat washer, cocking lever,
slide-on flange) On re-assembly, you reverse the
order. Then you never have to wonder...did the star
washer sit beneath the flat washer, or vice-versa?
You can have multiple pieces of tape, too...external
top, external bottom, internal top, internal bottom,
like flypaper for camera parts. Going to bed and
worried you may forget where the pieces went? Write a
small note to yourself and attach it to the tape next
to those parts. Good luck.
Jon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003
From: Manfred Mornhinweg mmornhin@gmx.net
Subject: Re: soldering basics
Hi Peter!
> I'm trying to attach a meter wire to a battery compartment contact
> but the solder won't stick. It just melts into a ball and rolls of,
> even when I heat the contact itself.
I would suspect that your battery contact is nickel-plated. Many if not most are. And nickel is one of the more tricky
metals to solder. It all depends on the flux! Some of them solder nickel as easily as copper, while others are totally
impotent when faced to nickel! For example, I have a roll of British "Fryflow" solder wire, type SN60 KP 861, which
is quite nice for most purposes but totally useless on nickel. I also have a roll of German Fluitin solder wire, type SN60
1532, which solders nickel like a charm. The third roll, German made too, is an Ersa SN60 RS4.1/322. It works on
nickel, but not as quickly as the Fluitin stuff. Note that all three use the same alloy, only the flux is different!
> Can someone outline very briefly how soldering actually works?
Soldering is a process of surface alloying. Essentially, the metals to be soldered are heated to a temperature well above
the melting point of the solder. Then the solder is added, intimately wets the base metal, and dissolves a thin layer of it,
forming a surface alloy with a smooth, even if thin, transition from the base metal to the solder.
This wetting of the base metal by the solder is normally hampered by the tendency of both the base metal and the solder to
form a thin layer of oxide on their surfaces, specially when hot. And this oxide totally prevents the proper alloying of the
metals. So, it's necessary to use a "solder flux". This is simply a chemical substance that acts as a reducing agent - very
much the same effect a developer does on the silver salts in a film emulsion! This reducing agent tries to rip the oxygen
from the metal, thus leaving a clean metal surface, ready for alloying. Many acids can be used as flux, but they are
corrosive even to the metal. Many resinous substances work reasonably well, and are noncorrosive. Those are exclusively
used in all electronics soldering, and usually come as thin strands inside the solder wire.
Different fluxes have different strengths. Each can solder just a certain range of metals. Copper is easily deoxidized, and
any flux can tackle it. Nickel is much harder to deoxidize, and requires a more active flux. Aluminum and stainless steel
are worst, and require strong, corrosive acid fluxes. So they are not soldered for electronic purposes. Note that the
working temperature affects the flux activity. Hotter is better, as long as the flux doesn't burn up. In practice, the range
between where enough activity happens, and where it burns up, is rather small. So, a controlled temperature soldering
iron is a large advantage.
Solders always must melt at a much lower temperature than the base metal. In electronics normally a tin-lead alloy is used,
sometimes with small additions of copper or silver. Metal alloys behave differently from pure metals: While pure metals
melt suddenly, going quickly from solid to liquid state, most alloys go through a third, paste-form phase. This is VERY
inconvenient, because if you move a soldered joint while it is hardening, it will break up and be unreliable. For that reason,
it's best to use "eutectic" solders. These are alloys in which the metals are mixed in such a proportion that they behave just
like pure metals, that is, the paste phase is avoided and the melt and solidify fast. Such an alloy is 63% tin to 37% lead.
The more common 60/40 solder is close enough to behave well. 60% tin, 38% lead, and 2% copper or silver are fine too.
But 50/50 solders are bad in electronics, and 40% tin, 60% lead are even worse. Unfortunately some manufacturers take
advantage of people's ignorance and sell them 60% lead solders, making them believe that they are as good as 60% tin
solders! Don't fall into this trap...
> I'm sure my problem here has to do with the substance or quality of
> the surface. The battery compartment contact is chrome-like, very
> smooth.
Really sounds like nickel. Try a different solder wire. Ask in electronic stores for some solder wire that will work well on
1/8 inch plugs, or RCA jacks. Many of them are nickel-plated too.
The most practical soldering process: Tin the parts to be soldered, by this method: First, you clean away any visible dirt,
oxide, or so. Then you tin the soldering iron, leaving a little drop of solder hanging. With this you touch the part to be
tinned. The solder drop acts as a good liquid cushion to quickly transfer heat to the part, but will not normally wet the
metal. Now you add a little more of the solder wire, to the junction between th solder drop and the metal. The wire
will immediately melt, freeing some flux, which will work on the metal, and suddenly the solder will start wetting the
metal. Now you can tin the entire area with the soldering wire, while the iron keeps it hot. You can move the solder
and iron together to keep the heat source close, but always the base metal must be hot enough to melt the solder.
Otherwise you are sticking the solder on, instead of soldering!
When both parts are tinned, it's an easy task to hold both together and agaion apply the iron, with a little drop on it.
This makes the solder flow together. You can add some more solder, so it flows out nicely. Every time you add some
solder, a little bit of flux activates, and stays active for one or two seconds. If you need more flux and have excess
solder over the place, just shake some solder off and apply more fresh, flux-laden solder!
So. I hope this has turned you into a fully fledged camera electronics soldering expert! Welcome to the Order of the
Hot Iron!
Cheers,
Manfred.
Visit my hobby homepage!
http://www.qsl.net/xq2fod
[Ed. note: the passing of Mr. Grimes is a loss to the entire LF/MF community he supported
so well for so many years...]
From: John john@darkroompro.com
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003
Subject: [Cameramakers] Steve Grimes 1943 - 2003
http://www.sheldonbrown.org/steve-grimes.html
Spoke with Steve just a few months ago about mounting a barrel lens and
some work for my Durst. One of the nicest businessmen I've ever dealt with.
John
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003
From: Pat Mullen gator6@prodigy.net
Subject: Re: Re: UV cement cure time
Roland:
You make a very valid point here. I invested something over $200 to buy a
proper dedicated UV curing lamp and the UV69 cement from Summers
Optical. The bottle of cement is enough to do hundreds of lenses and it
will keep forever if stored refrigerated. With the dedicated lamp, precure
is 20 minutes and the full cure is 90 minutes; there is no guesswork
involved. I have recemented dozens of lenses, mostly Zeiss Sonnars,
Tessars and Leitz Summitars, and every last one of them has turned out
perfect; so perfect that a couple of local repairs shops have asked me to
do this work for them (which I do occasionally as a favor).
Moral of the story is that the initial cost of the PROPER material is
relatively modest and it will pay for itself many, many, many times over.
It should be noted that if the substrates are not the same diameter, the
recementing cannot be done "at home." In that case, a centering collimator
is required and that is a specialized and very expensive piece of
equipment. You can fully separate the group and clean the substrates
yourself, and then send them to an optical shop (I use John VanStelton) to
be properly cemented/centered. This runs about $100, so the lens obviously
has to be worth something more than that. Fortunately, most of the
separated lenses I come across have same diameter substrates within the group.
...
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: 09 Aug 2003
From: Abdon abdon@sillypages.com
Subject: Electroplating
Hopefully somebody here can point me in the right direction. I'm trying
to setup a simple plating system, I already have a nice 10/50 amps 12
volts battery charger. My problem is that the web is deluged by
get-rich-quick-with-plating schemes! I'm looking for a FAQ or DIY guide,
but just about all I find is "you can make millions! just buy this $800
machine and you will be set!" The funny thing is that most $800 machine
happen to have the same electronic specification as a $40 battery
charger.
I have the charger, all I want is the chemicals and tips to play with
platting nickle-chrome and maybe gold. If somebody here knows of a good
FAQ and perhaps a reputable source the information would be appreciated.
Thanks.
- Abdon
from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003
From: "Chandos Michael Brown" cmbrow@wm.edu
Subject: RE: Electroplating
http://www.caswellplating.com/
The manual is worth every cent of the $15 it costs!
Chandos
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electroplating
cmbrow@wm.edu writes:
http://www.caswellplating.com/
The manual is worth every cent of the $15 it costs!
Also, I think they still publish a free catalog which contains a lot of
information and a lot of products that one can use in metal finishing/plating.
Setups are very simple, using easily obtained items.
In addition, you might want to look at the information given at the URL below.
It is a writeup by Robert Lozier on setting up a little system for nickel
plating. Primarily aimed at replating antique radio parts, but it will apply to camera
parts.
http://www.concentric.net/~stwradio/nickel.htm
Good Luck
Roland F. Harriston
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003
From: "Michael" mmcd7276@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Electroplating
...
You may also want to try Eastwood Automotive. They are big in the car
restoration area and I get much of my paints, chemicals and tools from
them to restore cars, ships and planes. The have a tin-zinc
electroplating system for 69.99, item number 10049Z. They sell good
stuff if you ask anyone who has used their supplies.
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com
Mike
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003
From: Arthur Schlaman aschlaman@msn.com
Subject: Super Ikonta
Hi again,
Here is the web site that has instructions for tearing down the Super
Ikonta and also rangefinder CLA. This guy also has some other great
info.
www.davidrichert.com
Art Schlaman
Chicago
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Felt for Pentax Takumar caps
Bob Rapp wrote:
> Jon Goodman mentioned that he is trying to source light trap felt to include
> in his seal kit. does any one know of a source for felt useful in restoring
> the felt in Takumar caps so they don't fall off?
I use self-stick felt sold in hardware and furniture stores, used to put
on the bottom of decorative items so they won't scratch furniture. Cut
it to size and adhere it to the inside of the cap. But it's green, so
it's obviously not original. I don't use the slip-on caps, anyway.
Best to put them away and use cheap plastic snap-on caps which protect
the lens just as well; you won't cry if you lose it.
In 1978 I dropped a plastic snap-on 49mm cap from the observation deck
of the CN Tower in Toronto. Don't want to know what it hit...
-GP
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003
From: "rudge65" nisu@prodigy.net
Subject: re: felt for lens cap
Go to your local dept. or craft store and buy a square of peel and
stick felt (under $1.50). From this you can cut strips or "dots" and
get the cap back to the condition that it'll stay on the lens. rudge65
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003
From: Peter Evans peter@despammed.com
Subject: focusing tests
I haven't been so lucky focusing close up at wide apertures. And my
brief experiment using Soviet lenses with a Bessa R was disappointing. I
realize that the depth of field is small, that the rangefinder of the
Bessa R (which I use more than I use anything else) is not the greatest;
but I wondered how much I should blame my own slow coordination, and
what would be revealed if I used a tripod to photograph a stationary
subject.
So, having some outdated color neg film and lots of more pressing things
to do last night, I postponed all those pressing things and covered a
table with sheets of A4 printouts, placing on top of these a series of
pens and pencils in parallel, with, at their centre, a box cutter. I
positioned the tripod so the pens, etc. would all appear to cross the
center frame from left to right, and so that the box cutter, at their
very center, would be slightly over a meter away from the camera.
Focusing wasn't so easy, but I had plenty of time and I think I managed
it well enough.
The lenses ranged from 35mm to 50mm (there was also a Jupiter 9 85 mm,
for which I moved the tripod back) and f1.5 to 3.5. Of course I used
them all wide open, varying shutter speed accordingly.
Interesting results (viewed on a cheapo CD). One Industar was totally
out. (Come to think of it, it came as a package with a FED, which I only
tried with a different Soviet lens, and which then produced uniformly
out-of-focus results. Could FED and Industar have been
idiosyncratically/exclusively matched to each other?)
An Industar 61 55/2.8 was (as far as I can tell) just right, as was a
Jupiter 3 50/1.5. All the other Soviet lenses focused somewhat further
away than the box cutter. (For the Jupiter 9 85/2, considerably
further.) All the non-Soviet lenses focused somewhat more closely than
the knife.
Perhaps I should try a similar test at three metres or so, or try with
better illumination, more carefully chosen test targets, etc. But I
tentatively conclude that yes, Soviet LTM [or not] lenses have slightly
different rangefinder coupling than do non-Soviet LTM (see
http://www.dantestella.com/technical/compat.html ), and that -- at least
if I want to use CV lenses close and wide open -- my Bessa needs adjustment.
I'm curious. When you well-informed persons buy a camera or lens
(especially one with a short, money-back guarantee), do you put a film
through it to give it a focus test? If so, what's the procedure? (Dante
Stella's correspondent Robert Ludwig writes of using a "1.5 million
candlepower spotlight", one of those handy everyday items that I don't
happen to have stored in a drawer somewhere.)
As for fixing such things once I know they need fixing, I'm not really
much good at it. I can assembling bicycles and computers, but tweaking
focus (etc.) is quite a different matter.
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/collimator.html describes three ways of
testing infinity focus (the URL is misleading; only one way uses a
collimator). The first way (if it works at all) could surely be adapted
for less-than-infinity focus -- but I'm certain that on a ground glass
screen of 24x36 (even if mounted perfectly, and that's a very big if), I
wouldn't be able to discern correct focus with any certainty. After all
I have major problems focusing a 6x6 TLR. And the second and third
methods are only about infinity. So anyway, very roughly how much should
I expect to pay for focus adjustment of something like a Bessa R?
(Yes, how on earth is such testing achieved for a bottom-loader such as
a Leica III?)
From manual Minolta mailing list:
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003
From: "Ed Rice" edriceus@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Brassing
--- In ManualMinolta@yahoogroups.com, "alomac2" alomac2@i... wrote:
> Is it possible to have a brassed camera repainted/touched up etc for a
> reasonable cost?
> I have a black SRT Super, which is quite brassed on top, particularly
> the pentaprism, and whilst it's only cosmetic, it would be nice to get
> the camera looking like new again. Is there any steps one can take to
> prevent it occuring in the first place?
>
> I'll probably have to take it for repairs anyway as the mirror is
> beginning to stick, unless that proves to be an easy fix, I haven't
> researched that yet.
>
> Thanks.
Micro Tools (www.micro-tools.com) has some "Brass Black" which is
good for touching up brassed areas on cameras. The only ways I know
of to prevent brassing is to not use the camera (not an option) or
else tape over the corners to protect them. (hmmm... not a bad idea)
Brass Black -
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store;_Code=MT∏_Code=15225-F
They also have "Aluminum Black" which I've found useful.
Ed
From manual Minolta mailing list:
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003
From: Jack kirkhuff targahh@mcn.net
Subject: re: brassing
Have never had too much luck with paint, the edges always show. Have
used a product by Birchwood-Casey called brass black. Made for the
gun repair trade, it chemically blackens brass and makes the flaw
less visible. Learned this from a camera repairman, and in fact I
think Micro-Tools has it in their catalog.
Jack Kirkhuff
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003
From: David Nebenzahl nobody@nowhere.net
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Screwdrivers
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
> I keep reading how these are a good idea to avoid scratching
> camera parts. Does anyone know where I might get some?
Check out my web page on "rolling your own":
http://www.bonez.info/toolz/microscrewsharpen/MicroScrewSharpen.htm
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] adjusting lens register
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
Bruce
You can measure the lens focus register using a vernier caliper or a dial caliper. I've used a "Mitutoyo"
vc for adjusting all my FED-1 and
Zorki-1 cameras. So far, so good. The vc should be able to measure down to at least 0.02mm. I also have a
Chinese-made dial caliper, but it has some accuracy issues. If it measured better, it would be easier to use.
Good vc may cost around $50.
I have some instructions for using calipers for focus register adjustment, as well as the adjustment process itself. It's at
www.fedka.com/~jay or www.pusang-puti.0catch.com
both will lead you to the home page, and click on the link for adjusting
and repairing cameras. I can't recall the exactly what the URL is for the exact pages.
Jay
russiancamera-user@beststuff.com wrote:
> Now that I have WAY too many ltm bodies on hand, I would like to adjust, or
>at least check, the lens register distance on them so they are all the same.
> Is their a low tech way to do it without a depth micrometer? Can it be doen
>well with a dial caliper?
> I really don't want to spend a bunch of money on expensive measuring tools
>that I will have limited need of, and I don't want ot buy some cheap tool
>that isn't worth a darn either.
> What are my options?
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] adjusting lens register
To: russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
You can make a depth measuring gauge which sits across
the flange and drops (or screws down into) the
pressure plate. Once it has matched the depth, it can
be removed and measured with a dial caliper (using the
depth measuring pin on the end).
-Paul
...
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003
From: Bob Steckmeyer steckmeyer@verizon.net
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: adjusting lens register
To: Russiancamera-user
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003
From: Oleg photocameras@mail.ru
Subject: [Russiancamera] Spare parts source...
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
Hi all!
http://www.activeindustries.com/index.html
So many spare parts for different cameras (not Russian!)
Very interesting site - but I did not found price list...
From: Stacey
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: HOW TO TAKE LENSES OFF A COMPUR-P SHUTTER?
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003
...
There may well be a web site but I don't know of it.
Lenses are mounted in most shutters in screw mount cells.
The cell is the metal barrel that contains the glass lens
elements. The glass parts do not have to be removed from the
cell.
The cell mearly screws into the front and back of the
shutter. Often, the shutter will have adaptor tubes. These
are simply short tubes threaded on each end. One end is
threaded ito the shutter, the ohter end is threaded to take
the lens cell.
Sometimes cells are hard to remove. Its helpful to use a
gripper like a rubber glove go give your hands better
traction. No tool should be necessary. In some cases the
shutter will have to be removed from its lens board to get
the back cell off. It depends on how much of the cell sticks
out.
Ed Romney has some elementary books on camera repair. Not
the best written but unique and valuable for getting
started. See: http://www.edromney.com
Other sources are the reprint books on shutters and
cameras from John S. Craig and Petra Keller. Both are very
reliable dealers.
John Craig is at: http://www.craigcamera.com
Petra Keller is at: http://www.camerabooks.com
For working on shutters you will need a set of jewelers
screwdrivers. Servicable sets can even be found in the
grocery store but a hardware store is likely to have better
quality.
You need fine tweezers. Ideally, this should be Dumont
pattern made of non-magnetic stainless steel. They are
widely available surplus for not much. In liu of these one
can use regular eyebrow plucker tweezers.
Work in a box so that you won't loose any parts. Pill
containers are good for holding parts while you work. Small
screws, etc., can be stuck on a piece of sticky tape to make
them easier to find.
It is VERY helpful to have drawings and photos of the
shutter so you will know where things go. If you have a
digital camera take pictures while you work. Don't rely on
memory.
Suitable oil can be had from hobby shops who sell model
railroad stuff. I use a brand called LeBell. It comes in
three grades, use the thinnest. Another good oil but harder
to find is Nyoil, do a Google search to find sources. The
oil is applied to only a few places, mainly the trunions of
the gears and to the pallet of the excapement. A very small
amount is needed. Apply with a toothpick or use a very fine
brush. To use the brush put a drop or two of the oil on a
saucer and brush it out. Then pick up just a little on the
tip of the brush and put it where you want it. Watchmakers
use special oil dispensers but for occasional use you don't
need such fancy tools.
The best solvents are pure naptha. Ronsonol lighter fluid
works well. Hardware store naptha works for rough cleaning
but my not be pure enough to dry without leaving a residue.
You can dip the shutter in the solvent and blow it out
with canned air. You can also make a simple vapor degreaser
by putting some solvent in the bottom of a jar, putting the
shutter on a bit of screen and closing the top. Let this sit
in a warm place for a while. Then open and remove the
shutter.
Another solvent which works well is pure Isopropyl
alcohol. 99% Isopropyl is available in most drug stores. Do
NOT use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. The
use of both Alcohol and naptha sequentially will insure
removal of all grease and oils from the shutter parts.
Shutters will often work dry (no lubricant) if very clean
and some shutters (Ilex for instance) are intended to run
dry. However, the life of the shutter and its speed
consistency will be better if properly lubricated. Some
shutters need additional lubrication. A very light dose of
Lubriplate to the speed ring for instance but in general
grease is not used in shutters. No lubricant should EVER be
applied to shutter blades or diaphragm blades. They must be
scrupulously clean. Even a very small amount of residue on
shutter blades will cause enough drag to significantly slow
down the shutter.
Extremely dirty shutters must be partially disassembled
to be cleaned adequately. Occasionally one must be
completely disassembled but this is a major job and most
shutters are difficult to reassemble. You definitely need
drawings and photos to do this. For the most part removing
the lens cells, front cover, and perhaps the speed ring, are
all that is necessary.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
From: David Nebenzahl nobody@but.us.chickens
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: HOW TO TAKE LENSES OFF A COMPUR-P SHUTTER?
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003
Bob G spake thus:
>>I've been reading that some people have had success emmersing the
>>whole shutter in lighter fluid, after taking the lenses off, without
>>having to take the whole thing apart.
>
> DON'T DO IT!!
>
> Lighter fluid is BAD
>
> It might work for a while, but it will leave a residue all over your shutter as
> it evaporates and it will eventually jam it tight
>
> The proper liquid to use, if you're going to do such a primitive thing as to
> immerse the whole shutter in it, is some variation of trychloro-ethylene
>
> Two cautions: first, any plastic parts in your shutter wil be destroyed, and,
> second, trychloro is a carcinogenic
Sorry, what you've just said is simply not true. (Except the part about TCE
being a dangerous carcinogen, which is true: you don't even want to *think*
about using this stuff.)
"Ronsonol" is one of the most widely-used solvents for cleaning shutters and
other precision mechanisms. Of course, as Richard K. has pointed out, you
don't just dunk the whole shutter in it: you've got to disassemble it first.
But lighter fluid is an excellent solvent: it has a low enough boiling point
that it will evaporate nicely and not leave any oily residue over the moving
parts.
I use low-odor paint thinner myself, which is similar to Ronsonol (which is
naptha), as it doesn't stink, is cheap, and does the job well. The main thing
is to make sure to get all of the gunk off in the solvent, and then to make
sure all the solvent is removed or dried before applying any lubrication.
From: bobjames27@aol.com (Bob G)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 26 Sep 2003
Subject: Re: HOW TO TAKE LENSES OFF A COMPUR-P SHUTTER?
>I've been reading that some people have had success emmersing the
>whole shutter in lighter fluid, after taking the lenses off, without
>having to take the whole thing apart.
DON'T DO IT!!
Lighter fluid is BAD
It might work for a while, but it will leave a residue all over your shutter as
it evaporates and it will eventually jam it tight
The proper liquid to use, if you're going to do such a primitive thing as to
immerse the whole shutter in it, is some variation of trychloro-ethylene
Two cautions: first, any plastic parts in your shutter wil be destroyed, and,
second, trychloro is a carcinogenic
Good luck,
Bob G
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: HOW TO TAKE LENSES OFF A COMPUR-P SHUTTER?
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003
...
The slotted ring holds the lens elements in the lens cell.
Leave it alone. The cells unscrew from the shutter. You
should be able to remove them with your fingers.
The problem with immersing the whole shutter in solvent is
that it may spread oils around, especially depositing them
on the shutter and diaphragm blades. Real cleaning requires
some disassembly of the shutter and several successive baths
in solvent. Its also necessary to lubricate some parts of
the shutter. A very small amount of lubricant is used.
Generally its synthetic watch oil, an oil which does not
migrate from where its applied and has a long life before it
begins to stiffen up.
The slow speeds are controlled by a clockwork gear
mechanism. These often slow down or even freeze up because
the oil on them has congealed with age. Its sometimes
possible to get them to come up to speed by simply applying
a small amount of fine oil to them but you have to get into
the shutter first.
Learning to clean shutters is not too difficult but you
really need a shutter that isn't being used to practice on.
$75 is about the going rate for shutter cleaning and
lubricating. There really are not any adjustments in most
shutters. Sometimes the fastest speeds are slow because the
drive spring or springs are stressed and sometimes because
there is some dirt on the shutter blades. The latter should
NEVER be lubricated.
Beyond this the highest speed on a shutter is really a bit
of wishful thinking. Its the _effective_ speed for the
maxumum aperture of the shutter. The total open time speed,
which is what most testers measure, is genrally only about
80% of this.
The Press Compur differs from the standard Compur in that
it has a "press focus" button or lever for holding the
shutter blades open for focusing with out shifting the speed
control to Time.
These are very rugged shutters and can generally be
brought up to specs.
There are some books available on shutter work. Try
http://www.craigcamera.com for starters.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
From camera makers mailing list:
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004
From: Gerald Newlands gnewland@ucalgary.ca
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Restoring old lenses.
Dear John,
Very interesting web page you found.
I have separated lens elementsd by soaking them in Xylene (with the odd
cheering up in the microwave when my wife out of range). It takes a few
days. I re-cemented them with Entellan (made by E.Merck, Germany) which
is a synthetic equivalent of Canada balsam. It has advantages over
Canada Balsam in that it is glass clear, never yellows and it sets
unlike Canada balsam which remains fluid at the centre. Entellan has
the same refractive index as glass (give or take a little) and its
intended use is as a microscope slide mount.
Regards
Gerald
John Cremati wrote:
> I was just scanning the SK Grimes site and they have this page on
> recementing lenses that I had never seen before.. I thought I would
> just pass it along.. John
> Cremati http://www.skgrimes.com/popsci/index.htm
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kodak Ektar 127mm lens
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004
"Neil Purling" sextant@sextant.karoo.co.uk wrote...
> Well, my Ektar has a rim set Supermatic which need gloves to adjust the
> speed or else you can hurt yer fingers. The lens cells have a whole regiment
> of what look like this: -.
> They are look thin and like tiny dashes under a magnifier. There are rounder ones.
> It was at that point I wondered if it was really worth sending the thing
> away to SK Grimes.
> I am shooting some negs first.
> The lens is 1949 I didnt expect it or the shutter to be mint.
Supermatics are very rugged shutters and can usually be
brought back to life if they are not actually corroded.
Naptha (Ronsonol) is a suitable cleaning solvent but I
will also warn against a simple soaking to clean the
shutter. Several cleanings may be necessary and some
disassembly is needed to do it right. Nearly all shutters
need some lubrication. Very light oil on the trunions of the
gears in the speed regulator and some light grease on some
sliding parts. The Supermatic needs a little light grease,
Lubriplate will do, on the rim of the speed ring. I
occasionally see shutters which appear to have had large
amounts of Vaseline smeared on the ring. Vaseline (petrolium
jelly) is a fairly good lubricant but oxidizes badly with
time so it become hard. Synthetic grease is much better and
you need very little. NEVER use powdered graphite on a
shutter.
The 127mm Ektar is a Tessar type with air spaced front
elements. The front element is held in place by a threaded
retaining ring. Usually, the threads have been painted over.
The cell can be opened by removing the paint on the threads
with Acetone and using a friction wrench to remove the ring.
A friction wrench is simply a tube of the right diameter
with a sticky rubber washer cemented to one end. Once open
the inside of the cell can be cleaned. The spots may be bits
of anti-reflection paint or they may be fungus, although
fungus usually looks different. Most old lenses get a
coating of haze on surfaces which can not be easily reached
for cleaning. The haze comes off with any lens cleaner or
alcohol. Enough can form inside the front cell of a Tessar
to ruin its contrast. Its visible if you shine a flashlight
through the lens.
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kodak Ektar 127mm lens
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004
...
> Neil Purling wrote:
> > I had the lens panel out after I noted some tiny pin prick dots over the
> > area of the front lens cell.
> > This seems to be between elements.
> > I was going to do what is referred to as the 'Ronsonol Soak' after removing
> > both lens cells.
> > Its a bath of lighter fluid into which the shutter assembly is placed for a
> > short time to soften hardened lubricant. I dont know if anybody has tried
> > this out.
> > If the lens is suffering some defect I am not too worried as I also have a
> > 150mm f4.5 Schneider Xenar.
Neither Ronsonol (Naptha) or other organic solvent will
remove lens coatings. They are vacuum deposited metal salts
which are tighly bonded to the glass. They must be removed
by polishing them off with an abrasive or with an acid bath.
Worn coatings have been abraded by poor lens cleaning
technique, not by any solvent.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: enorland@norlandprod.com (UVguru)
Newsgroups: sci.optics
Subject: Re: avoiding bubbles in glue
Date: 11 Feb 2004
ajw27703@wmconnect.comremoove (tony) wrote
> >Hello,
> >
> >I'm asking for advice regarding bonding of optical components.
> >When applying drops of glue (1-10 microliters; applying a thin layer is not
> >possible), how can one avoid bubbles being trapped or formed
> >(except the obvious, i.e. working under vacuum)?
> >
> >Thank you
> >
> >
> You will do better by using an excess of glue or epoxy and extruding it from
> between your components. You'll find that if the components are warm the
> adhesive will flow better, and you'll find it's better to start with a line
> contact between the components and rock them together, pushing the glue along
> rather than trying to keep the component surfaces parallel and closing the gap
> between them uniformly.
>
> This technique works well with large -- 10 inch -- surfaces, so it should do
> will with smaller ones.
>
> The most important tip is probably to use an plenty of glue and clean up the
> excess later. If the components aren't coated, you can position them on contact
> paper or in wax to hold the base one in place.
>
> Good luck.
>
> AJW
We have a lot of experience applying optical adhesives at Norland
Products because we manufacture uv curing optical adhesives.
https://www.norlandprod.com/UVdefault.tpl
Techniques for bubble free bondlines depends on the size of the
optics. Since you are working in microliters I assume these are small
surfaces. Normally a drop is applied to the center. The adhesive
should form a nice drop on the surface with a little height. The
second surface is lowered slowly at a slight angle until it contacts
the drop. The key is not to come straight down because this traps air.
Light pressure is applied to spread the adhesive out to the edges. It
should not be necessary to apply excess adhesive if you have well
mated surfaces.
For larger square surfaces, like 12"X12", apply two beads from corner
to corner, with extra where they cross in the middle. Again, lower the
second surface at a slight angle at one edge. The adhesive spreads out
from the corners and center to the middle of the sides without
trapping air.
Good luck.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004
From: "velostigmat" velostigmat@hotmail.com
Subject: Kodak Kodamatic #1 Shutter - the Good & The Bad
Hello All:
I have so far attempted three of these shutters on Kodak Senior Six-
20 folders. Two were unquaified successes and the third was an abject
failure. This is the same shutter found on most Kodak Monitor
cameras, as well.
First step was to remove the shutter from the camera. There is a
bracket and linkage which is removed by unscrewing two small screws.
With the camera back open, and the bellows closed, the threaded
retaining ring is easily accessible through the open rear film door.
Be careful using your spanner wrench so as not to damage the bellows.
Once you get the ring loose you can unscew it using a jewellers
screwdriver in the one slot that is not hidden by the first fold of
the bellows.
The only really tricky part about dismantling this shutter is that
the middle element housing is not notched for your spanner wrench.
Unless you have the special Kodak tool (unlikely) you need to Very
carefully drill two holes into the narrow mounting flange of this
element. I used a 1/16th drill bit, the smallest commonly available
size. This is more than big enough for the pointy-ended spanner
wrench I use. On the first two cameras I did, the ring came away
easily using the spanner wrench. On the third shutter, the ring made
one-eigth of a turn and then froze. Stupid Mistake #1: I used a small
punch and tapped lightly with a light hammer to free the ring. I
should have just retightened the ring and contented myself with flush
cleaning.The ring became completely stuck. The element flange is made
of soft brass and became deformed. I ended up having to drill the
whole assembly out. Result: the shutter works but the central element
housing is damaged beyond repair. Lesson: quit while you are ahead.
The other two shutters were a complete success. This is a very well-
made shutter compared to the absolute junk Kodak put in their 1950s
35mm cameras. The only thing to be aware of is that you will need to
retension the shutter spring (not the high speed coil) after you
remove the front plate. This will be obvious if you miss it, as the
shutter will be very lazy if you don't.
Once again the problem was grease migrating from the focus helicoid.
As usual, I made indexing marks using a permanent marker. They come
off easily with alcohol or naptha.
The painted finish on the Kodak shutter is resistant to acetone, but
I would still be careful. You probably won't have to use the acetone
as Kodak weren't the grease freaks that Argus was (see Argoflex E
post).
The Kodamatic tells you it's ready for CLA when all the shutter
speeds are the same. The 1/10 is the first to go.
You can do one of these shutters in a couple of hours or less.
I really like the Senior Six-20 as an alternative to the Monitor.
Much lighter and more compact and very nice-looking. You lose the
positive stop film advance, but this is a somewhat flaky mechanism
anyway and makes the Monitor a real heavyweight.
Barry
From: David Littlewood david@nospam.demon.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Adapter question.
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004
Edwin Petree edwinpetree@example.invalid writes
>Timo Labrenz tlab3000@tlab3000.de wrote
>> so he glued the adapters on the lenses with Locktite glue. I think that's
>> reasonable, if you're really not planning to use the lenses on other
>> cameras.
>
>What do you mean by "Loctite glue"? I know about eighty different types.
>
>If you mean a cyanoacrylite "superglue", I'd be worried about fogging the
>lens.
Loctite (note spelling - it is AFAIK a trade mark name) engineering
adhesives are entirely different from cyanoacrylate "super-glue". They
are what is know as "anaerobic" adhesives; they are supplied in a small
bottle half full of air, and the oxygen in this inhibits polymerisation.
In use, typically for locking a shaft into a bored hole or a screw into
a threaded hole, the shaft or screw is coated with adhesive and pushed
or screwed into place - reasonably quickly but without panic. After some
time from 10 seconds upwards, the absence of oxygen in the adhesive
allows it to polymerise, thus jamming the shaft/screw into the hole.
There is little actual adhesion of the material to the substrate (the
material being joined), but in effect the conversion of a loose fit into
an interference fit.
The stuff comes in various strengths; the weakest (Loctite 222, often
called threadlock or nutlock) can be tightened or unfastened by using
normal force on a spanner - it just stops the thing shaking loose.
Loctite 242, studlock, has a good firm grip but can be undone with a
good hard twist of a spanner. The higher strengths (270, 600 etc.) can
easily be loosened by heating to some temperature - IIRC about 120-140
Celsius. (It will even go back on cooling to its initial locked state if
the heating is not excessive.)
You will appreciate from this description that it *only* works where
there is a shaft or threaded part to be fixed into a matching hole; it
has *absolutely* no success in affixing two flat surfaces together. At
the job it is designed to do (including the one mentioned here) it is
near-perfect, provided you select the right variant and ensure a
reasonable fit of the mating parts - and that means not having them too
tight, or all the adhesive will be pushed out on mating. A reasonable
free hand fit without excessive "slop" is just right. I would use
Loctite 600 for this job - a permanent fit but one which can be released
with moderate heating.
From what I know about Loctite, it could well be based on methyl
methacrylate, which polymerises to polymethyl methacrylate (perspex); it
certainly smells like I remember that material from lab work in the 70s.
It may be capable of causing fogging akin to that commonly caused by
cyanoacrylate, though from my experience with it this is not noticeable.
However, as with all such critical uses, I would urge you to do some
tests and research of your own before risking on a valuable component.
--
David Littlewood
From: "William D. Tallman" wtallman@olypen.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Repair filter threads on lens?
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004
lib wrote:
> I recently acquired a used Vivitar lens [ 28-90mm w/ 62mm filter threads ]
> that has been damaged in one spot. It appears to have been hit on the
> front edge and has left the lens housing at that point slightly " out of
> round " and unable to accept the filter. What is the process to repair
> this problem? Thanx
Obtain a piece of hardwood, harder than oak but workable. It should be at
least a half inch thick and at least six inches across. Stand the lens on
the surface of the wood such that you can reach close to 180 degrees of
undamaged edge. Turn the lens so that the undamaged arc is square with an
edge of the wood, and carefully trace the perimeter of the lens with a
sharp pencil.
Now trim the wood so that the arc is bisected leaving the minor arc (less
than 180 degrees) on the work piece. With a jig-saw, cut the arc line.
You should now have the work piece with a semicircle removed, into which
the edge of the lens will fit somewhat snugly, not tightly. The removed
piece is retained as the 'hammer' to be used with this wooden 'anvil'.
Mount this work piece on a board, such that the lens can be fitted squarely
into the anvil and the entire thread surface is supported by the wooden
'anvil'. You'll have to cobble some dependable support for the lens body,
of course, and it's good to do this so when the lens is positioned, you'll
not have to worry about the lens moving in the jig.
Next, try the fit of the 'hammer' piece inside the filter thread.
Obviously, cover the front element of the lens, or you can wrap the
'hammer' with velvet or other protective cloth. Fiddle with this until you
are satisfied that it'll do the job without your having to tend to it. If
the 'hammer' doesn't fit inside the filter thread, sand it down until it
does, paying attention that the center of the arc isn't malformed. The
setup will require that the 'hammer' piece will be affixed (taped?) in
place.
Obtain a dowel, preferably hardwood, that is somewhat less in thickness than
the 'hammer' and 'anvil'. It should be probably six inches in length.
The setup will be with the lens placed in the jig so that the damaged part
of the thread is at the bottom. Secure the lens. Place the inner 'hammer'
wooden half-round such that it rests on the damaged part. Place the dowel
on the 'hammer', so that it is vertical, that the end that rests on the
'hammer' is as close as possible to a vertical alignment as possible. Now
you are ready to work.
With a small hammer or mallet, tap on the upper end of the dowel. You'll be
holding the dowel in place with your free hand, so that it doesn't move or
slip. DO NOT USE FORCE!!! Many light taps will do the job and it'll take
a little while. If you set this up so that you can see the damaged edge
between the 'hammer' and 'anvil', you'll be able to assess your progress.
Don't get impatient and hit it harder if you see little result, just stay
with the task.
When you are done, the damage should be remedied, such that a filter will
mount easily.
The jig and the 'hammer', with the dowel, is now ready to fix any dent in a
62 mm filter thread, and will serve as many of these as you're likely to
see, I think.
Re filters: There is a product used by tire sellers to lubricate the lug
threads of automobile wheels so that lug nuts will be easily removeable
without the tendency to loosen. It's an aluminum colored paste. It works
great on filters. But here's the caveat. It's rather difficult not to get
too much on the threads.
What you do is to touch the paste with the end of your finger. Wipe off the
paste until there is only a dull film on your finger-tip. Apply this to
the outer threads of the filter. If you do this right, it will be
difficult to discern the color of the film on the threads, but there will
be enough to keep them lubricated, such that they'll not be likely to jam.
HTH
Bill Tallman
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca
Subject: Re: VARIO SHUTTER Query
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Javier" nikitakat@e... wrote:
> How would "watch cleaner solution" work? It seems to be similar to
> lighter fluid, similarly volatile, and appears to be tougher on
> grease.
The original NatCam cleaning solution was a watch cleaning solution,
the green stuff. The rinsing solution was Ultrasonic Rinse #3
(aka "paint thinner")
I used to clean leaf shutters in an ultrasonic cleaner, using H&R;
watch lube parts A and B as the intermediate rinse and final rinse,
after cleaning in Ultrasonic Rinse #3 or ammoniated Jewelery Cleaner
for really tough stuff.
For hand cleaning, total disassembly (but not to the point of taking
apart the escapement sub-assemblies) with cleaning in a "paint
thinner" type solvent followed by careful hand lubing with watch type
lubes is the procedure. A new Prontor shutter is dry lubed at the
factory - cleaning will remove the factory lubes.
> BTW, the oil I used is a compound of sewing machine oil + lighter
> fluid (2 parts lighter fluid to 1 part oil).
Use a non-migrating watch-lube type oil.
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: THE VARIO NOW WORKS! was VARIO SHUTTER Query
Thanks again to the tips from Max, Roland, Robert, and Peter. The Vario shutter clicks once more. And it didn't
even have to go farther than 5 metres from my desk nor be sent to someone else for CLA.
It was indeed old fossilised lubricant which did it in. Following the
"pressurised" lighter fluid injection technique helped. ther tricks were also employed. First step was to soak
the whole shutter (minus the lens of course) in petrol [gasoline] for an hour to remove most of the oil. Then
lighter fluid was introduced by injection. The pressure pushed out some gritty looking, but light coloured gunk.
The shutter was place on a petri dish to catch the fluid, and the detritus was left on the dish after the fluid evaporated.
Repeating the flush-out steps did spell the difference.
The lighter fluid alone did not do a perfect job. The local brand I used doesn't seem to be as pure as Ronsonol. It
leaves an oily component which doesn't dry off completely. So the next step was the "watch cleaner solution" soak.
I put the whole shutter in a jar with enough watch cleaner to cover it and soaked it for about 30 minutes. The jar was
lightly shaken to 'agitate' the solution and perhaps flush out remaining unwanted oil stuck in the shutter's works.
I got this idea from local watch repairers who sometimes drop whole watch works in the solution and shake the jar to stir it clean.
The watch cleaner solution really dries clean. It is indeed tougher on grease than lighter fluid, at least the one I have.
After the soak, and once the WCS dried off, the shutter started working again. The cocking lever did become stuck
sometimes, and I surmised that this was because the WCS drained out all the lubrication. A tiny drop of lighter fluid
on its pivot made it work again. :-)
Jay
From: w-buechsenschuetz@web.de (Winfried Buechsenschuetz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Repair filter threads on lens?
Date: 13 Feb 2004
"lib" libaala@worldnet.net wrote
> I recently acquired a used Vivitar lens [ 28-90mm w/ 62mm filter threads ]
> that has been damaged in one spot. It appears to have been hit on the front
> edge and has left the lens housing at that point slightly " out of round "
> and unable to accept the filter. What is the process to repair this problem?
First, you will have to de-bulge the filter thread roughly so that it
has a round shape again. A suitable method is described in the repair
article section of www.kyphoto.com/classics. Micro-Tools and a guy in
Germany sell tools to do this in a more precise way.
However, in most cases the thread will have round shape again, but the
thread itself will be more or less ruined and you still won't be able
to attach a filter.
DO NOT try to screw in a filter with force to re-shape the thread.
Most filter mounts are made of aluminium, just like the lens filter
threads, and aluminium threads get stuck very easily (that's why
manufacturers like B+W use brass filter mounts).
Mechanists have a special tool for manually re-shaping threads, it is
called 'thread chaser'. I have access to such a tool but could not
find any source to buy it yet. Filter threads are metric and have
0.75mm pitch in most cases (0.5mm below roughly 40mm diameter), so it
will be even more difficult to locate a tool for this pitch in US and
U.K. Basically it is a handle with a blade bent 90 deg. and wearing a
couple of 'teeth' in proper pitch and triangular shape, and you will
have to 'scratch' the remaining thread until it is in proper shape
again. I have successfully repaired several filter threads on
fixed-lens cameras like this.
Winfried
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Pentax Super A (Super Program) automatic diafragm problem
javierdiazdeargandon wrote:
> Hello
> My pentax Super Program (Super A in Europe) doesn't close properly
> the difragm when selected the lens "A" position.
> It occurs with all the lens I have tried. The LCD display shows the
> correct aperture, but the difragm closes fully, resulting severe
> subexposition in almost all the cases. Previously the camera worked
> fine. Any clues??. Thanks and best regards
That could either be an electrical or mechanical problem...or the two,
interrelated.
The way the mechanism works: a permanent horseshoe magnet holds an
armature. As long as that armature is held by the magnet, its linkage
does NOT restrain a toothed wheel which spins in sync with the aperture
stopdown lever. When you press the release, the stopdown lever starts
to move, closing the lens. This movement spins a wheel with slits in
it, which an infrared LED and sensor "reads" so the camera's processor
"knows" how far the stopdown mechanism is moving. At the proper point,
the camera's processor, having previously calculated the correct
aperture in accordance with the meter reading and shutter speed (in
Shutter Priority) or the exposure program (in Program), sends current to
a coil of wire wound on the permanent horseshoe magnet; the resultant
electromagnetism cancels out the permanent magnetism, releases the
armature, and this action causes the attached linkage, which is under
tension of a spring opposing the magnetic "hold," to restrain that
toothed wheel, which stops the stopdown lever at near the correct point.
In Program mode, the camera then makes an instant reading through the
stopped down aperture...in case it is not QUITE correct...and trims up
the shutter speed to compensate for whatever slight error it detects.
If there is something causing the armature's movement to drag or not
release from the magnet properly, it won't stop the stopdown action.
This can either be electronic (if the correct voltage doesn't reach the
coil wound around the magnet, or the coil or wiring has gone
open-circuit) or mechanical (if some grease, dirt or corrosion has
gotten to the mechanism, or a spring is broken or weak). By tracing the
wiring to the magnet, one can use a voltmeter to see if the "release"
signal actually is occurring. By unsoldering the wires from the circuit
board to the coil, and measuring the coil with an ohmmeter, one can see
if the wiring and coil are good. By removing the mirror box, one can
access the stopdown mechanism and do what is needed that the mechanism
is free-moving and uncontaminated, and its spring not broken or weak. If
the infrared LED and sensor isn't working, the system will malfunction
also, since the processor will never think the lens is stopping down at
all; more complex troubleshooting is necessary to diagnose that.
If electronics have gone bad, it's going to be impractical to fix a
Super Program, since parts for this camera are made of Unobtainium.
Fortunately the usual cause of this malfunction is mechanical...dirty or
dragging linkage or a weak spring being what I usually see. The same
basic mechanism is found in the Pentax Program Plus/Program A and
A3000/A3; and the Pentax P3/P30 series and P5/P50.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004
From: Leigh Solland solland@telusplanet.net
Subject: Re: Re: Shutter cleaning experiences
Hi Barry,
Thanks so much for the additional information. I still haven't quite got back to that
camera, but I'm hoping to tackle it this week. We have a bout of real winter here in
Sunny Alberta, so I will take that as a sign that I should stay close to my workbench!
I'll let you know how I make out. I feel braver now that I know you succeeded!
Regards,
Leigh
velostigmat wrote:
> Hello Leigh:
>
> Seeing your name reminded me you had written about the Kodak
> shutter. Yes, the middle lens element is removed by unscrewing the
> ring. Kodak used a special tool, but you can drill two small holes in
> the ring, which though it looks like steel is brass. You can then
> remove the ring with your spanner wrench.
>
> The only real trick to this shuttter is that when you remove the
> cover plate, the self-timer gear is spring loaded and you will unwind
> it's spring if the self-timer lever is disturbed, which is
> inevitable. You just have to retension it. Also the main spring
> is tensioned by a cam shaped brass piece which will become
> disconnected when you remove the cover plate.
>
> I successfully cleaned then relubed with tiny amounts of spray-on
> graphite on the pivot points and the shutter is working perfectly.
> The tech who previously serviced it had scratched 7-27-49 on the
> rear of the shutter body, so I figure my repair will last 10 years.
>
> Now all I have to do is light-seal the bellows, re-spool some 620 and
> go for it. The camera is a Senior 620 dating to 1939.
>
> Regards
>
> Barry
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Shutter cleaning experiences
Acetone is an excellent solvent; Trichloroethylene is even better, at
least as a degreasing agent. I never use either one on cameras.
The problem is not my health. If you know there are no plastic parts
in the stuff you're cleaning, both are just fine. Thermoset plastics
like Bakelite and crystalline thermoplastics like Nylon are okay
too. Amorphous thermoplastics, though, and Polycarbonate in
particular, can be badly damaged by either Acetone or Trichlor.
If polycarbonate comes into contact with Acetone, the Polycarbonate
will soften and begin to dissolve. Trichlor is even worse: the
plastic doesn't soften, but any areas that may be under stress
(around self-threading screws, for example, or just where there was a
high level of stress in molding) will crack either instantly on
contact or a bit later when you're no longer looking, and sometimes a
part will just crumble to pieces.
Polycarbonate, by the way, is the material used for the plastic
bodies in nearly all modern cameras and lenses.
Naphtha, on the other hand, is a pretty effective degreasing solvent
which has no harmful effect on any common plastic.
But don't drink it.
:)=
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, "velostigmat" velostigmat@h... wrote:
> Hello All:
>
> I asked my pro repairman what he uses to clean shutters -
> trichlorethyline first, then acetone. Acetone is most effective as it
> is a solvent.
>
> Before everyone tells me about the horrors of acetone, they should
> read the warning labels concerning naptha, which is not user friendly
> either (main component of Ronsonol).
>
> To make a long story short, I tried acetone on a pair of shutters
> that would just not free up with the ususal stuff, and POW - the
> acetone eliminated the old gummy stuff immediately and the shutters
> worked beautifully. Proceeded to do 3 more that day with same great
> results.
>
> Just use in a well-ventilated place, wear latex gloves if squeamish.
> You don't have to use a lot, or use it for a long time. 5 minutes
> of rinsing if that, the job is done. Of course you must remove all
> plastic bits and the lens elements. For 1940's era shutters I think
> this is the ticket
>
> Barry
[Ed. note: be sure to check on and observe all health precautions when using solvents!]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004
From: "ned99992001" nedsnake@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Shutter cleaning experiences
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, "velostigmat" velostigmat@h... wrote:
> Hello All:
>
> I asked my pro repairman what he uses to clean shutters -
> trichlorethyline first, then acetone. Acetone is most effective as it
> is a solvent.
>
> Before everyone tells me about the horrors of acetone, they should
> read the warning labels concerning naptha, which is not user friendly
> either (main component of Ronsonol).
>
> To make a long story short, I tried acetone on a pair of shutters
> that would just not free up with the ususal stuff, and POW - the
> acetone eliminated the old gummy stuff immediately and the shutters
> worked beautifully. Proceeded to do 3 more that day with same great
> results.
>
> Just use in a well-ventilated place, wear latex gloves if squeamish.
> You don't have to use a lot, or use it for a long time. 5 minutes
> of rinsing if that, the job is done. Of course you must remove all
> plastic bits and the lens elements. For 1940's era shutters I think
> this is the ticket
>
> Barry
I began my camera repair career using ethylacetate which was terrific
for metal, optics and mirrors but was death on some plastics. Later
I switched to Freon 113 which was around $10.00 a gallon and for the
most part was safe on plastics, when freon 113 was discontinued I
wound up using Techspray's Envi-ro-tech 1677 degreaser which works
very well on almost all plastic I have come across and is a very nice
cleaner for mirrors and optics. At the rate cleaners are
disappearing we will soon be down to soap and water.
From russian camera user mailing list:
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003
From: David Nebenzahl nobody@nowhere.net
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: Shutter curtain glue?
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@beststuff.com
Laika wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> What's a good glue to use when replacing shutter curtains?
> Most general glues and contact cements I seen often mention
> they may not work with certain rubbers.... I don't want my
> nice new red curtains to die a year or two down the track
> because the glue eats the rubber.... Any recommendations?
You can use ordinary contact cement without any fear; I've used it many
times, and it will not "eat" anything.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003
From: "bennydrinnon" bennydrinnon@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: 180 mm Sonar problem and solution
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, Gene Poon sheehans@a... wrote:
> bennydrinnon wrote:
> >
> > I had an 180 mm Zeiss Sonnar in Pentacon Six mount on an Exakta mount
> > adaptor, and noticed recently that the diaphragm had stopped working.
> > Taking the lens off the adaptor, I tried moving the actuator pin.
> > There was no resistance, as if something had come disconnected
> > somewhere. As I've gotten stuck Exakta lens diaphragms started again
> > by simply trying to work the diaphragm, I tried that on this lens. It
> > started working again, but the next day it was stuck on completely
> > open again. I suspected that the Exakta mount adaptor might be
> > causing the problem somehow, so I took it off. The lens seems to work
> > ok now that the adaptor is off. Apparently the spring pressure of the
> > adaptor on the actuator pin of the lens was responsible for the
> > problem. Thought I'd post that here in case anyone else had the same
> > problem. - Ed Romney's pal
>...
>
> Could very well be; the balance between two springs inside that lens and some
> other CZJ lenses is finicky and critical. I don't know how the East Germans,
> with their well known attention to detail and precision of manufacture (NOT)
> could get that mechanism to be reliable over a long period of time. If there is
> more spring tension applied by the Exakta adaptor, that might have caused it,
> but if it worked OK previously, remember that the diaphragm blades of that lens
> are rather large, and it only takes a LITTLE film of oil on them to throw it off
> kilter, so make sure that's not the real problem. Easy enough to access the
> blades for cleaning, by unscrewing the rear and front groups, if you have to.
>
> -GP
OK, if there's a problem with oil on the diaphragm blades I'll try
to clean it. - Ed Romney's Pal
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Re: 180 mm Sonar problem and solution
bennydrinnon wrote about sticky diaphragm on a CZJ 180/2.8 Sonnar in P6 mount:
> OK, if there's a problem with oil on the diaphragm blades I'll try
> to clean it. - Ed Romney's Pal
...
On a very early, pre-Zebra sample I did two weeks ago:
Remove the rear mount, then unscrew rear group. Remove the front name ring,
then unscrew the front group. I then de-oiled mine with naphtha, which I then
soaked up with lint-free wipes. Repeated several times, since every time it
seemed to dissolve out a little more oil. Finally dried the blades VERY
CAREFULLY with air, tested it and reassembled.
DO NOT undo the focus guides and the focusing helicoid unless you absolutely
have to. Get the threads off, and focus is off!
This lens had been sluggish and intermittent to stop down when used on a Kiev
60, although there was very little residue and no wetness of oil visible on the
diaphragm blades; it had no problems afterward. Possibly the oil contamination
was near the pivot points.
-GP
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Shutter CLA prices and qualities
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004
"AArDvarK" noway@yourprob.com wrote
> Richard Knoppow:
> > The technique of complete disassembly and rebuilding is
> > really the proper way to clean the shutter. It is not always
> > necessary but probably a good idea. It is very important
> > that the shutter blades be free of any oil film. One problem
> > with the often recommended technique of soaking the shutter
> > in solvent is that the solvent really does not wash out the
> > dirt and old lubricant and can leave a residue. I ran into
> > this just recently in fixing an old dial set Compur from a
> > c.1937 Rolleiflex. I gave it a casual cleaning and it kept
> > jamming. The problem turned out to be a small fiber of
> > something on one of the shutter blades, which was pushed
> > under the activating ring. Once I bit the bullet and did a
> > real cleaning job on it the problem went away. This shutter,
> > BTW is exactly on speed even at 1/500th. I think it has been
> > serviced at some time since it was built but probably not
> > for decades.
> > Most shutter technicians will charge about $80 US for a
> > CLA but find out what exactly they do for this. The $200
> > price seems a little high but the time quoted is about right
> > and may be short for shutters like the Kodak, Ilex, and
> > Wollensak, where it may be necessary to adjust springs or
> > even make them.
> > ---
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickburk@ix.netcom.com
>
> Thank you for the reply Mr. Knoppow!
> Exactly what I was hoping to hear about.
> I feel that khbphotografix.com has the
> right idea on how to do things, but I
> decided it is far too expensive to simply
> "have done" at my financial level. Now
> I bought repair guides for the graphex
> and rapax shutters, and will buy them
> for compurs and prontors too. I know
> I am tech-savvy enough to learn it, I
> have rebuilt two LF cameras and the
> rotating back of a Busch Pressman D.
>
> I would like to find a used ultrasonic
> cleaning machine for the parts. Do you
> have one? If so, does it clean parts within
> a fluid bath, or dry?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Alex
I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner and don't think they
are absolutely necessary, especially if you are doing only
occasional work. They clean wet, the parts are put into a
dish which is part of the cleaner. I suspect a simple vapor
degreaser would be even more effective by my elementary
experiments have not worked so far. I think you can do with
using several rinses of the shutter parts. Use two different
solvents. Naptha (lighter fluid) works for some greases and
Isopropyl alcohol for others. I would use 99% Isopropyl for
the final rinse. Isopropyl alcohol absorbs moisture from the
air very rapidly until it reaches about 91% purity. That is
too wet for cleaning purposes since it will leave a water
residue behind. Some drugstores sell 99% Isopropyl. That
works fine but must be used fresh since once you open the
bottle it will begin to absorb moisture. A half-filled
bottle that's been around a while will probably have turned
to 91% alcohol. You can tell by the way it evaporates, the
very dry stuff evaporates very rapidly and leaves nothing
behind.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From kiron-club mailing list:
Date: Mon, 03 May 2004
From: Chuck Norcutt chucknorcutt@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Kiron 80-200 macro cleaning
Nugget opined:
hey fellas,
I just bought a kiron 80-200 with macro lense dirt cheap,and i need help
an ideas on cleaning it,i have stripped it down, but am very stuck and
confused on how to get to the inner lenses to clean the fungus off, i
just read on some more postings on here ill need to either buy or make
a tool to remove the front lense cover to get to it,but i need to some
how open the smaller inner lense setup to clean them aswell.everything
else apper's to be working well.Its a PK mount lense,i dont know if that
makes a difference? its the first lense i have attempted at cleaning and
repairing.any help would be appreciated guys
------------------------------------------------
I've never disassembled an 80-200 so I can't quite follow the discussion
on the "inner lenses". However, the inner elements, like the outer
elements are typically held inside a machined cell with threaded
retaining rings.
The front element is held in place with a threaded ring which screws
into a cell whose threads are also the filter threads. Some retaining
rings have slots or recesses for a spanner tool. Others (like this
80-200) must be removed with a friction tool. You need something like a
tin can or piece of PCV pipe or whatever with just the right diameter to
fit loosely inside the filter threads but not be such a small diameter
as to touch the glass. Using contact cement of similar, glue some
grippy rubber (such as a wide strip of a very large rubber band) around
the lip of the can. Press down on the retaining ring with the tool and
twist counter-clockwise. It should come loose without too much trouble.
The inner cells will also consist of threaded parts but the structure
might not be so obvious and there may or may not be slots or pin holes
for a spanner wrench. Look for any indication of threads or seams in
the ends or side of the cells. These parts have to unscrew in some
manner but may require more custom made friction tools to get them apart
if they have no provision for spanner wrenches. Often the rear lens
group is contained in a cell which unscrews in its entirety. Once
removed it may be obvious how to get to the elements in the cell.
If you can find the threads or seams look for shiny surfaces that may
indicate some form of glue or lacquer used to lock the parts together.
If you can find where you think it should come apart but it doesn't want
to budge the parts may be glued. In that case you will have to use a
solvent to get them apart (if at all). Try a drop or two of Ronsonol
lighter fluid. Ronsonol comes in a can with a handy squirt top for
dispensing just a drop or two and is pure naptha. Not all lighter
fluids are pure naptha.
Perhaps someone else (like Ralph) will chime in here. If not maybe you
can post some digital pics of the insides and I can guess what to do.
I've got a couple of 80-200's kicking about but don't feel like
disassembling them.
ps: You're pretty gutsy to try working on a zoom as your first lens
cleaning task. You may be glad you got it dirt cheap.
pps: Clean off the fungus with "nose oil"... literally. Rub the tip of
your finger on your nose and then rub the fungus with your finger tip.
Clean up with multiple applications of alcohol or other mild solvent.
This is the recommended Olympus factory procedure for dealing with
fungus. If you don't like this a little dab of women's cold cream also
works well. Check the coating to see that the ravenous little fungi
haven't totally destroyed it since they exude acid.
Chuck Norcutt
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004
From: "Martin Luerkens" martin_doc_holiday@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Lubricant Source Please
Hi,
From my own experience a long term test: I relubed the helicoid of a
Helios 44 back in `77 or so. The only grease I had access to was at
the time Stauffer red grease, normally used for quite simple machinery.
The helicoid of that lens still works smooth and without any partial
grease vaporising to other parts of the lens, although it is up to
today in frequent use, sometimes at over 45o C, at least recorded. The
real temperature may have been hotter occasionally, when it was stored
in an unshaded car in the summertime. Good and cheap stuff, at least
for me.
Martin L
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@p... wrote:
> Peter Wallage at peterwallage@b... wrote:
>
> > --- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, Mark Overton mark@s... wrote:
> >> Peter Wallage wrote:
> >>> ... apart from lens focusing
> >>> helicoids where I use a silicon base grease, and had no problems.
> >>
> >> What specific kind of grease are you using for helicals? That's
> >> something for which I've never found anything satisfactory.
> >
> > I use a silicon grease made for use by makers and repairers of
> > commercial food processing machinery.
>
> snippo
>
> > I seem to remember that Shell and Castrol have very
> > informative sites, but I'm sure silicon grease is pretty widely
> > used. I had an idea it's used in some places on commercial laser
> > printers and drum scanners. Maybe try your local Yellow Pages?
> >
> > Peter
> I use a silicone grease made for lubing and sealing vacuum fittings in a
> laboratory or cleanroom environment. The stuff I use is made by Corning, its
> called (appropriately enough) "High Vacuum Grease" and is clear/pale color
> and rather more stiff than the usual automotive greases. It might be too
> stiff for some installations, but I like it because its special properties
> include high heat resistance to melting and no out-gassing (in vacuum,
> therefore even better inside a lens...). Cost was about $20 for a 4oz tube,
> but it lasts a while.
> --
> Jim Brokaw
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004
From: "Peter Wallage" peterwallage@btinternet.com
Subject: Re: Lubricant Source Please
Hi Sam,
If it's a leaf bladed shutter you're thinking of lubricating for sub-
zero temeratures, I'd advise don't. Deckel, the makers of Compur
shutters, recommend in their repair manual that in low temperatures
the shutter runs 'dry'. However, if you really want to use a
lubricant I would steer clear of graphite except, possibly, rubbing
a very soft (5B or similar) pencil on the blades and then wiping
most of it off, but this requires disassembling the blades. I've had
to strip several Compurs where people have used graphite powder
carried in lighter fluid as a temporary palliative for sticking. It
works for a little while, but after a time when the fluid dries out,
I found the graphite clumps and clogs everything up.
If it's any help, and you feel you really must use a lubricant, I'm
in the UK where we don't get very low temperatures but quite a few
years ago I had to take some pictures in Canada up in Timmins (Super
City of the North!)in February (I was covering cold-start trials of
specially 'winterised' trucks). I reckoned that the Russians
possibly knew as much about low temperature photography as anyone,
so I asked the advice of T&OE;, at the time the UK importers of
Russian camweras in London. They suggested an all-mechanical Kiev
4A, stripped it, removed the Russian factory lubricant and replaced
it with silicon-based oil. You can get this in Tandy stores, and
maybe other stores that sell electronic components. It worked fine,
never missed a click, in night-time temperatures down to minus 40
degrees C when other battery-dependant cameras, and cameras
with 'normal' lubrication, failed after about 10 to 15 minutes, and
some plastics got so brittle they broke like old 78 shellac records.
I've since used it on other cameras, apart from lens focusing
helicoids where I use a silicon base grease, and had no problems.
Peter
--- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, "Sam Smith" imn23dru@h... wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I am looking for a source for a graphite shutter lubricant. I've tried
> fine machine oils on pivot points, but have had problems in cold
> weather. Although there may be mail order sources, where do you look
> for supplies like this in a typical city? Hobby stores don't seem to
> carry it. I'm in Calgary.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sam
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Lubricant Source Please
Hi, Sam.
You should be able to find powdered graphite in any
well-stocked hardware store or auto parts store, or
from any locksmith. I've never known of one tube of
graphite to be any different from the next.
Jon
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004
From: "Bob Rapp" bobrapp2@bigpond.com
Subject: Re: Re: Lubricant Source Please
Another possible source is the auto supply houses. The distributor points sets of older cars require
lubrication between the points and the distributor cam. It is high temperature silicone grease.
I have been using a large tube for years for helicoids and some movements on my field camera.
Bob Rapp
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004
From: Stephen Castello zootzoot@cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: Re: Lubricant Source Please
Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com tortured a bunch of electrons for some unknown
reason:
>What specific kind of grease are you using for helicals? That's
>something for which I've never found anything satisfactory.
>
>Mark Overton
I use Nyogel 795A from www.micro-tools.com It doesn't take much of it
to get the smooth feel. They describe it as a light damping grease
for use as a light focusing mount (helical) lubricant..
Stephen
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004
From: Jim Brokaw jbrokaw@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Lubricant Source Please
...
I found fine powdered graphite in the hardware store, sold for lubricating
lock mechanisms. I got a small plastic tube with a narrow pointed tip (poke
a hole in it with a pin). Intended for use in puffing into the lock
mechanicals, I usually puff a bit onto a cotton swab and rub over shutter
leafs or aperture leafs. However most times this is not necessary. I have
seen clock oil in a hobby shop, sold for lubricating model train
locomotives, which usually have a nice geartrain in them. Side note -- its
really amazing both the amount of detail and the corresponding cost of some
of the little locomotives... hundreds of $$$ in some cases! I also found
some 'dry powder teflon' in a sporting goods shop, sold for use in
lubricating gun mechanisms... there are some very fine lubes sold for this
also.
--
Jim Brokaw
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Good Tool for Removing Mirror Cushion Goop?
Hi, Bill.
The best way to remove the old pad is mechanically...NEVER use solvent near your focus screen.
Some of these can be ruined just from solvent fumes. With a sharp and narrow X-Acto style blade,
begin by slicing the old pad off. Make motions toward you, and hold the camera at a slight angle so
that any old material will fall back and out of the lens opening. If needed, a good pair of tweezers are
helpful, also. Once the majority of the old material has been removed, you'll see the adhesive for the
old stuff still remains. I usually go back and see it I can either (a) catch under it with the X-Acto blade
and start its removal, or (b) failing this, slice precisely and carefully across the top with the blade,
removing as much of the old foam as possible. Don't fret over perfection. Because of obvious limitations,
you can't always achieve it here. Cut a template for your new foam from an unwanted business card.
When you have the length and width right, select the proper height open-celled damper foam, cut the
piece and install it using tweezers. I'll angle an edge in, position the piece
loosely in place, use the mirror as a view to check my positioning and press it down. You can use the
mirror itself to press down on the foam...simply lift it and swing it up. Here's another warning:
PLEASE DO NOT be tempted to try to place paper, cloth or other things on your mirror or focus
screen thinking you'll protect it. First--paper can scratch your mirror (even soft paper). Second, this
is a perfect way to trap bits of old foam under a piece of paper and smear them on your focus screen.
I receive at least 3 to 5 e:mails every month from people telling me they made a mess and now need to
know how to clean it up. Hopefully, you're using the right foam. Good luck, and please let me know if
you have questions.
Best regards,
Jon
Bill Doyle liamclarke@earthlink.net wrote:
I removed all old light seals and replaced them except for the mirror
cushion, don't want to damage it, any advise?
Bill
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Rebuilding LF lenses
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004
"John Hendry" pict@pict.co.uk wrote
> "Raphael Bustin" rafe.bustin@verizon.net wrote
> > Is it ever practical these days to rebuild
> > lenses? I'm not talking about the shutter,
> > but about separating and then re-cementing
> > elements within groups, or maybe re-coating?
> >
> > Are there places that still do that? Or does this
> > process end up costing more than a new lens?
> >
> > I'm thinking in particular of a Schneider Symmar
> > 240/5.6, I'm guessing ten or fifteen years old,
> > maybe more.
> > rafe b.
> > http://www.terrapinphoto.com
>
> If you do want to have a go yourself I would recommend separating the
> elements by immersion in methylene chloride. This is a rather volatile
> solvent so a glass jam jar with a good sealing lid is an ideal vessel to
> prevent evaporation during the soak. Any store selling materials for
> fibreglass should stock it. It may take a day or two of immersion (usually
> sooner) but it will separate most any optical cement bond including both two
> component and UV curing. I've found Summers Optical J-91 UV curing cement to
> be easy to work with. Here's the link to it on their site...
>
http://www.emsdiasum.com/Summers/optical/cements/cements/uv.html#anchor669157
>
> Once you have the elements lined up (two v-blocks work well) you can use a
> black light fluorescent tube to set it off. An exposure of about 10 secs at
> a distance of an inch usually starts it setting. It will be solid after
> about 30 seconds. Full cure is in an hour.
When I first got optical cement I was misled as to what
sort of light source was needed to cure the UV cement and
chose the heat curing binary cement instead. While the
binary cement works very well I think I would choose the UV
cement now since it will cure with inexpensive UV sources
and does not need the very expensive bonding sources I was
told were necessary.
I have not tried mythelene chloride for decementing but
if it works it is definitely safer for the lens elements
than boiling it in Summers solvent. That works but its hot
enough to subject the glass to thermal shock which can cause
them to crack. It takes several minutes to work. I use an
elctric frying pan on a voltage adjustable transformer to
control the heat. I start with the solution cold and heat it
gradually until the elements separate. Since re-cementing is
not a project you should do in a rush the use of methylene
chloride seems like a good idea. However, its not necessary
for lenses cemented with Canada Balsam, they will separate
with very gentle heat. My technique is to put them into cold
water and heat it gradually until the come apart. This takes
place well below the boiling point. Methylene chloride
should dissolve Canada Balsam very effectively however.
With a few qualifications I think home recementing is
quite practical and with some care the quality of the job
should be equal to a commercial one. Cleanliness is
important because the lens surfaces must be very clean for
the cement to take properly and you certainly don't want
trapped dust particles in the cement.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Your thoughts on cell interior cleaning
Date: Wed, 12 May 2004
"Collin Brendemuehl" dpcwilbur@excite.com wrote ...
> "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com wrote...
> > "Collin Brendemuehl" dpcwilbur@excite.com wrote ...
> > > This is something that doesn't frighten me technically speaking.
> > > But I find it generally prudent to ask about matter that will cost
> > > more than $20 to experiment with.
> > >
> > > I found an old Fujinon WS 210/5.6. The single-coated version.
> > > Inside the front cell, in the air space, is some fogging on the glass.
> > > Inside the rear cell, in the air space, is some edge fogging.
> > > (The only thing that makes me hesitant about taking this on is the
> > > presence of some cleaning marks on the rear cell.)
> > >
> > > So I checked Kerry Thalmann's online Fuji brochures to verify (and it proved true)
> > > the open air space within each cell.
> > >
> > > While opening the cells won't be a real issue, my concern in cleaning methods.
> > > What would be an appropriate approach to cleaning fog off
> > cells and subsequently keeping the interior appropriately clean?
> > > My first thought is standard lens cleaning fluid. Just keep it wet to
> > > avoid marking it. But this may or may not be adequate.
> > >
> > > Has anyone done this, or are you all too scared? :)
> > >
> > > Or should I see about getting a better bargain and try to get the
> > > cells cheaply enough to justify the experiment?
> > >
> > > Your thoughts?
> > >
> > > TIA,
> > >
> > > Collin (the bargain hound) Brendemuehl
> >
> > Clean them just as you would outside surfaces. Lens
> > cleaning fluid or 99% Isopropyl alcohol are fine. Use lens
> > tissues or Kimwipes and use each once only. Blow out the
> > cell after cleaning it and before putting the lens back. If
> > a lens doesn't come out easily try lifting it out with a
> > piece of scotch tape. If the surface is clean that won't
> > hurt it. Becareful to note any shims and get them back
> > properly. Few old lenses had shims but some modern ones do.
> > If the cells have threaded back caps they are very easy to
> > open. Most lenses without back caps have threaded front
> > retaining rings. The best way to remove these is with a
> > friction tool made of a soft rubber ring cemented to a tube
> > the right diameter. Be careful replacing the lens. The
> > clearances are very small and you don't want to chip the
> > lens by forcing it. It must displace some air going in so
> > will move slowly.
> > I don't know for certain what causes the haze in lenses
> > but think its probably some residual volitile material from
> > the anti-refection paint on the inside of the cell. Some
> > makes of lenses seem more prone to develop it than others.
> > Schneider and Kodak lenses seem to have haze frequently.
> > Some very old lenses may even seem to have soot inside.
> > I've found this stuff also cleans right off with lens
> > cleaning fluid and leaves the lenses sparkling clean.
> > Even a small amount of internal haze will destroy the
> > contrast of a lens. I think one reason that uncoated lenses
> > have a reputation for being very flary is due to interenal
> > haze and dirt. They really are not that bad.
>
> Richard,
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
> I was mostly concerned about touching the interior surfaces at all.
> I don't know if there's any interior coatings on the old Fujinon W
> 210/5.6.
> If so, then I'm not too worried about marks, but would take obvious
> care to
> prevent them anyway. If not, then the possibility of any marks would
> be very important and leaving any marks would be a big negative. :(
>
> Do you know if the interior surfaces of a Fujinon W are coated at all?
>
> Collin
I think all Fujinon lenses are hard coated. The only
non-experimental soft coated lenses I know of were some of
Kodak's Ektar series made in the early 1940's These include
the Eastman Ektar series (predecessor to the Commerical
Ektar), the lens for the Medalist camera, the lenses for the
Ektra 35mm camera, and for a couple of other deluxe lenses.
After about 1946 all lenses were coated using vacuum
deposition technique forming hard coatings. hard coatings
are often more easily scratched than the glass they are on
but can not be wiped off. In fact removing them is something
of a problem. I would use great care on internal surfaces,
but then I recommend that for external surfaces also. So
called cleaning marks come from abrasive on the cleaner. I
recommend not using anything re-usable on a lens: not
brushes or microfiber cloth or anything else which gets used
twice. Use good quality lens tissue or Kimwipes. For
brushing use lens tissue. Roll it into a tube, tear the tube
in half and fold the feathered ends together. Use that ONCE
and toss it. Don't use the inside of your tie or pocket
handkerchief or any of many similar things I've seen used.
Scratches DO count. One will not ruin a lens but the sort of
marks that look like a lens has been cleaned with a Brillo
pad destroy both contrast and sharpness.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Illuminated magnifiers
If you don't need to wear something over top of regular glasses, the
magnifying eyeglasses sold in drugstores for a few bucks work well.
They're a lot cheaper than commercial magnifiers made for close work.
My hobby is building scale models. I'm building a stagecoach right
now, all wood and brass and some of it is put together with tiny brass
nails. Those little nails are hard to see and hard to find if you drop
one. People who build scale models need good magnifiers as well. The
best supplier is Model Expo:
http://www.modelexpoinc.com/
Search using magnifier as the key word and you will find a bunch. The
one I like best is called Versatile Headband Magnifier. It comes with
four interchangeable lens units for different magnifications and has a
built-in light. Costs less than $ 50.
Jeweler's supply companies also sell good magnifiers, but they tend to
be much more expensive.
Bob
Denny Sherman wrote:
> I find it hard to see a lot of the small camera parts. I'm debating
> illuminated magnifiers. I don't know if a stand magnifier or a head
> band magnifier would be best. What is most commonly used. If anyone
> likes a particular brand or style, let me know.
From: "John Hendry" pict@pict.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: fog inside lens cell
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004
"John Hendry" pict@pict.co.uk wrote
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004
> Subject: Re: fog inside lens cell
> snip
> > Cement is available from Summers Optical.
> > The easiest to use is probably their Ultra Violet curing
> > type UV-69 This will cure with a BL BLB UV lamp. The
> > technique is described on their web site.
> > http://www.emsdiasum.com/Summers/optical/cements/default.htm
> snip
>
> No experience with UV-69 but I know firsthand that J-91 also works well and
> cures with a black light fluorescent - 1min to set and 1 hour to cure. The
> relative merits of these two isn't entirely clear from the website but
> Summers are a helpful bunch on the phone. For separating cells I find
> methylene chloride and patience (a day or so) is a low stress method that
> works well.
One thing that has occurred to me in the past relates to alignment of the
cemented elements (I use two steel v-blocks). One generally assumes that the
elements have been ground individually with the optical centres bang in the
middle. On the last lens I did, I marked the orientation of the lens cells
with a diamond scribe (very light scratch on the ground edges) prior to
decementing so I could reorient them identically on recementing. I don't
really know whether the elements are rotated against one another in the
factory on an optical bench to minimise any slight relative eccentricity in
the grinding (slight off centre optical axes) to find the best orientation
for cementing. Can anyone confirm whether such a step is taken, or are
lenses factory cemented purely on physical alignment of the ground edges
with no regard for axial orientation? i.e. grinding stage is absolutely
perfect with centred optical axis. Having thought about it since I assume
this must be the case or you'd end up with very inconsistant quality as the
number of elements increased.
From: "John Hendry" pict@pict.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: fog inside lens cell
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004
Subject: Re: fog inside lens cell
snip
> Cement is available from Summers Optical.
> The easiest to use is probably their Ultra Violet curing
> type UV-69 This will cure with a BL BLB UV lamp. The
> technique is described on their web site.
> http://www.emsdiasum.com/Summers/optical/cements/default.htm
snip
No experience with UV-69 but I know firsthand that J-91 also works well and
cures with a black light fluorescent - 1min to set and 1 hour to cure. The
relative merits of these two isn't entirely clear from the website but
Summers are a helpful bunch on the phone. For separating cells I find
methylene chloride and patience (a day or so) is a low stress method that
works well.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004
From: "Barry Velostigmat" velostigmat@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Lens haze - Agfa Color Solinar 50mm for Ambi Silette
The classic haze remover is a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia.
Let the thing soak overnight. If the haze is going to come off, this will do
it. If not, it's probably embedded in the coating and is not going away.
...
[Ed. note: warning!! ]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 02 May 2004
From: Bruce Feist bfeist@flock.org
Subject: Re: Lens haze - Agfa Color Solinar 50mm for Ambi Silette
Pat Mullen wrote:
>The Solinar is a Tessar clone, that is: a single front element, a single
>middle element and a cemented doublet at the rear. Separation is not your
>problem. As far as the haze is concerned, 99% of the time a bit of Windex
>on a Q-Tip gets rid of that completely in seconds.
>
FWIW, I've heard reports that ammonia, which is found in modern Windex,
is used to remove lens coatings, and that Windex can and eventually will
trash the coating on a lens.
Bruce Feist
From: danielwfromm@att.com (Dan Fromm)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
Date: 15 May 2004
john@xyzzy.stafford.net (jjs) wrote
> danielwfromm@att.com (Dan Fromm) wrote:
>
> > FWIW, that's in essence how Steve Grimes did the detail design for the
> > rings etc. he made to remount a 38/4.5 Biogon for me. I sent it to
> > him mounted in a dead AGI F135 shutter, he put it in a Copal 0. To
> > get the spacing right, he just matched the end of barrel-to-end of
> > barrel distance.
>
> How does Grimes, Inc. determine spacing? Do they look it up or actually
> test the postion? I ask because they want a lot of money to assure that
> the spacing is correct, and I would think that with so many modern lenses
> such information is a given.
>
> I mean I have a Super Angulon 121mm LF lens to mount in a #0 shutter. How
> mysterious can that be?
Fair question.
John, Steve measured front of front cell-to-rear of rear cell distance
and made tubes to hold the cells in the shutter and match that
spacing. Adam has done the same with at least four of the 38 Biogons
I've sold.
Steve couldn't just unscrew the cells from the AGI shutter and screw
them into a Copal because the two shutters have different thicknesses
and because the cells, as Zeiss delivered them to AGI, were not
threaded to screw into a standard #00 or #0 shutter. Not every lens
matches the Compur standard.
Putting your 121 SA in a #0 should be pretty straightforward, as in
screw the cells in and go, IF the cells were made to go in a #0.
Otherwise, no dice.
Another example. A couple of years ago I bought a mystery 65/8 SA
clone in an OptoDynetics shutter. The cells turned out to be threaded
for #00. So I got a Compur #00 and, after measuring the distance from
front of front cell to rear of rear cell, screwed 'em out of the
OptoDynetics and into the Compur. Measured again, the distance had
grown by about 4 mm. The solution was to machine out the front
threads of the shutter to allow the cells to go deeper into it. Steve
called it "the shoulder problem," said it was well known. Oh, yeah,
the lens seems to be an Ilex Acugon.
Again, we knew what the distance should be and matched it. No looking
up was required, just taking measurements from the example in hand.
Hope this clarifies things a little.
Cheers,
Dan
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004
"Hemi4268" hemi4268@aol.com wrote
> >Even when the lens is wide angle, specifically a Bigon design?
>
> Even more important. You must balance the center
resolution with the edge
> resolution.
>
> Example might be
>
> Micron space Center Edge L/mm
>
> -50 285 50
> -40 300 100
> -30 320 300
> -20 340 200
> -10 360 100
> 0 380 50
> 10 350 20
>
> You correct spacer looks to be about a -27 or -28
>
> Larry
You will never get center and edge resolution to be the
same since the effect of diffraction at the stop varies with
image angle. Further, the variation in cell spacing changes
a lot of things depending on the lens design. It can change
spherical aberration, which appears all over the image, not
just at the edges. I can affect field curvature,
astigmatism, and coma, among other things. In general its
useful to measure for focus shift at the center because this
is a sign of spherical aberration. Focus with the lens wide
open and again at a mid stop, say two or three stops down
from maxium apertur. Coma appears as a tear drop shaped
smear of small sources at the margins of the image. Its
affected by the stop so its not easy to find the minimum.
Also, symmetrical or semi-symmetrical lenses have little
coma. When the cell spacing is right the coma should be
minimal with the aperture at maximum. field curvature can be
measured by measured the difference in focus position of a
very distant object at the center, the middle, and edge of
the image. Astigmatism is more difficult to measure and
really requires the use of an array of proper resolution
charts. Astigmatism shows up as a variation in the field
curvature for light rays entering the lens along a radius
and those along an annulus. In practice it results in radial
and tangential lines focusing differently. That is, the
spokes and circles of a spider web will not be in
simultaneous focus. Proper cell spacing should minimise this
effect. Properly designed Plasmat type lenses have little
astigmatism so its fairly easy to tell if its bad.
You need an optical bench of some sort for changing the
cell spacing. This is similar to a lathe bed with clamps to
hold the lens compenents. The usual viewing device is a low
power microscope (30X to perhaps 100X) of very good quality.
Gross problems are visible with a high quality 10x
magnifier. The aerial image will make some aspects of lens
performance easier to view but the magnifier or microscope
has its own set of vices and can mask certain effects,
especially if it acts to stop down the lens. Fine ground
glass is actually better for spotting some problems,
especially at the edges of the field.
Brian Caldwell, a lens designer, once posted a fairly
complete answer to the question of cell spacing here, I know
he reads the group occasionally, perhaps he will repost.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: hemi4268@aol.com (Hemi4268)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 14 May 2004
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
>Even when the lens is wide angle, specifically a Bigon design?
Even more important. You must balance the center resolution with the edge
resolution.
Example might be
Micron space Center Edge L/mm
-50 285 50
-40 300 100
-30 320 300
-20 340 200
-10 360 100
0 380 50
10 350 20
You correct spacer looks to be about a -27 or -28
Larry
From: hemi4268@aol.com (Hemi4268)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 14 May 2004
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
I then mount this on a camera somehow and
>focus on a distant point light source.
This will only work if you use two point light sources. One for the center of
the cens and the other for the edge.
Then all you need to do is balance the size of the two points. When both give
the same size image you got it.
Larry
From: hemi4268@aol.com (Hemi4268)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 13 May 2004
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
> How sensitive is it to correct spacing?
I think I can answer this. Spacing more or less only controls edge resolution.
It also controls the distance at which the lens has the best overall center to
edge resolution.
You can get back to the correct spacing by your hunt and peck method but you
will need some resolution targets. You will also need to pick a distance where
you want the best overall resolution from center to edge.
Larry
From: brianc1959@aol.com (brian)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Empirical method to measure cell spacing?
Date: 16 May 2004
"Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com wrote
> You will never get center and edge resolution to be the
> same since the effect of diffraction at the stop varies with
> image angle. Further, the variation in cell spacing changes
> a lot of things depending on the lens design. It can change
> spherical aberration, which appears all over the image, not
> just at the edges. I can affect field curvature,
> astigmatism, and coma, among other things. In general its
> useful to measure for focus shift at the center because this
> is a sign of spherical aberration. Focus with the lens wide
> open and again at a mid stop, say two or three stops down
> from maxium apertur. Coma appears as a tear drop shaped
> smear of small sources at the margins of the image. Its
> affected by the stop so its not easy to find the minimum.
> Also, symmetrical or semi-symmetrical lenses have little
> coma. When the cell spacing is right the coma should be
> minimal with the aperture at maximum. field curvature can be
> measured by measured the difference in focus position of a
> very distant object at the center, the middle, and edge of
> the image. Astigmatism is more difficult to measure and
> really requires the use of an array of proper resolution
> charts. Astigmatism shows up as a variation in the field
> curvature for light rays entering the lens along a radius
> and those along an annulus. In practice it results in radial
> and tangential lines focusing differently. That is, the
> spokes and circles of a spider web will not be in
> simultaneous focus. Proper cell spacing should minimise this
> effect. Properly designed Plasmat type lenses have little
> astigmatism so its fairly easy to tell if its bad.
> You need an optical bench of some sort for changing the
> cell spacing. This is similar to a lathe bed with clamps to
> hold the lens compenents. The usual viewing device is a low
> power microscope (30X to perhaps 100X) of very good quality.
> Gross problems are visible with a high quality 10x
> magnifier. The aerial image will make some aspects of lens
> performance easier to view but the magnifier or microscope
> has its own set of vices and can mask certain effects,
> especially if it acts to stop down the lens. Fine ground
> glass is actually better for spotting some problems,
> especially at the edges of the field.
> Brian Caldwell, a lens designer, once posted a fairly
> complete answer to the question of cell spacing here, I know
> he reads the group occasionally, perhaps he will repost.
Hi Richard:
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I would have answered here
earlier, but recent travels have been a big distraction.
Your answer is pretty complete and accurate (as usual), so there's
only a little that I can add. First, to answer one of the original
poster's questions, changing the cell spacing in a plasmat by 0.001"
or less will essentially have no detectable change on the image.
Also, optimizing the spacing by examining a point image on the ground
glass will work, but it helps to make sure the point source is at a
large distance. I've used distant street lights at night for this
exact purpose when tweaking homemade view-camera lenses.
Second, you are correct that plasmats have little astigmatism.
However, a true symmetrical plasmat like the G-Claron will likely show
a little astigmatism when focused near infinity. Reducing the central
air space slightly should cure this, but the total cell spacing change
will be on the order of 0.01" - 0.02" for a 100mm focal length lens.
Even this much movement may be hard to detect unless you look very
carefully at the ground glass, or unless you do a true star test on an
optical bench. Plasmats designed for 1:1 magnification will also show
a little coma at infinity focus, but re-spacing won't help this with a
plasmat as it would with a Tessar. These are rough guides, based on
both practical experience and ray tracing, and some of the details
will of course vary among different plasmat designs.
Brian
www.caldwellphotographic.com
From: "Richard Knoppow" dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Rebuilding LF lenses
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004
"Raphael Bustin" rafe.bustin@verizon.net wrote
> Is it ever practical these days to rebuild
> lenses? I'm not talking about the shutter,
> but about separating and then re-cementing
> elements within groups, or maybe re-coating?
>
> Are there places that still do that? Or does this
> process end up costing more than a new lens?
>
> I'm thinking in particular of a Schneider Symmar
> 240/5.6, I'm guessing ten or fifteen years old,
> maybe more.
>
> rafe b.
> http://www.terrapinphoto.com
It is practical but may not be economical. A number of
technicians do lens recementing. Perhaps the best known is
John van Stelten, who also recoats and repolishes lenses.
Recementing varies in difficulty with the design of the
lens. Where only two elements are cemented, and where they
have the same outside diameter, cementing is relatively
easy. Where one must cement more than two elements it
becomes somewhat more difficult but the cementing is
generally done one surface at a time. Lenses like the old
Schneider Angulon, which have elements of different
diameters cemented together require some sort of fixture to
hold the elements in the correct position. Where the
diameters are equal the lenses are simply clamped lightly at
three points around the periphery.
Separating lenses depends on the cement originally used.
Very old lenses, i.e., pre-1950, were cemented with Canada
Balsam, essentially purified pine pitch. These are
decemented by gentle heating. The usual book procedure is to
heat them on a pan but I find that heating them in water
whcih is slowly heated up works better. At some point they
will just slip apart. Canada Balsam melts at a relatively
low temperature, well below boiling water, so there is
little chance of damaging the lenses. Synthetic cements,
which are universally used on modern lenses, generally have
to be boiled apart using special oil. I've had some success
with this but the lenses become very fragile at the high
temperature so one must avoid shock and sudden temperature
change.
It is not too difficult to recement a lens yourself
although a valuable lens should go to a professional For
more on lens cements and cementing procedures see the
Summers Optical web page.
I am not sure of Steve Grimes shop still does recementing
but its worth contacting them.
http://www.skgrimes.com
focalpt@ecentral.com
The Focal Point
John Van Stelten
1017 South Boulder Road
Suite E-1
Louisville, CO 80027-0027
Tel.- 303-665-6640
Fax - 303-665-3803
http://www.411web.com/F/FOCALPOINT/
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
jlmac@worldnet.att.net
From: James Upton jupton@zdial.com
To: koni-omega@snoopy.cmagic.com
Subject: [KOML] Spanner Wrenches
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999
From: stafford stafford@WIND.WINONA.MSUS.EDU
Subject: [KOML] Spanner Wrench (correction)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] in re rubber stoppers
> Rubber stoppers resemble cork stoppers as used in wine bottles.
> In the u.s. they are available in large plumbing hardware store
> departments of plumbing supply stores.
> Also Fargo Enterprises of California, the camera repair tool
> supplier has them in varying sizes. They are quite effective.
> In addition I would think that almost any laboratory equipment
> (chemistry) supplier would have them. Also the chemistry department of
> any university would probably have rubber stoppers.
> Good luck.
> ellis feldman
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: WdshpBiz@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nikon F Mirror Vibration
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: Tony Zoccolillo tonyzoc@dreamscape.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000
From: Andrew Moore moore@rscs.net
Subject: [Leica] Here's a cheap RF adjustment tool.
From: "Mike" NEDSNAKE@email.msn.com
Date: Sat Feb 12 20:23:01 CST 2000
[1] Re: Should I learn camera repair?
From: Dave Oswald doswald@xmission.com
Date: Sun Feb 13 02:42:58 CST 2000
[1] Re: Should I learn camera repair?
From: Josef Brugger jbrugger@teleport.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Zoom Creep, any solutions?
From: Bob Salomon robertsalomon@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tools
> From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
> Organization: AT&T Worldnet
> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 22:11:16 GMT
> Subject: Re: Tools
>
> Pam Niedermayer wrote:
>>
>> All suggestions about where to buy a spanner wrench, and
>> what model, will be appreciated. I just balk at $50-100 for
>> a wrench to tighten retainer rings.
>>
>> Pam
From: Bob Salomon robertsalomon@mindspring.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tools
> From: Johnny L Johnson jayjohnson@w-link.net
> Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
> Reply-To: jayjohnson@w-link.net
> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 15:13:31 -0800
> Subject: Re: Tools
>
> My suggestion is to take a look at what Rodenstock calls a lens wrench.
> It is about a couple inches square and just as wide as the slot in the
> retainer
> ring. Nothing to adjust and weight is less than 2 oz. Calumet offers one made
> by Toyo, made on the same principle otherwise any Rodenstock dealer
> should have one. Here's the part you should like a little over $15 should
> probably
> get you one. I have had mine for a little over a year and it works great.
From: "Francis A. Miniter" miniter@attglobal.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tools
HI Pam,
From: remove.david@meiland.com (David Meiland)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tools
From: fredd_c_dobbs@my-deja.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tools
While I agree with everyone about the flat metal Toyo wrench,
inexpensive, light and very practical, you have to be sure it will work
with your lens boards. If there isn't enough clearance between the
edges of the wrench and the shoulder or lip for the recess on your
board, it's not gonna work. That's when the long thin "legs" of the
spanner become essential. I had a Toyo wrench once, long enough to
discover that it wouldn't work on my Wisner 5 X 7 boards.
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Flash Synch
>--- "imagineero ." imagineero@hotmail.com wrote:
> What I did was to glue it.
>> I used a glue from the
>> company 'Loctite'. I glued it in such a way that
>> the glue is only on the
>> switch and the body. This glue is disolvable, and
>> since it is under the
>> switch, invisible. No-one can see it. I dare say
>> that if I ever gave it a
>> whack, it would probably come loose but it hasn't so
>> far (been on for 1 1/2
>> years). Should I ever want to use Bulbs or sell my
>> camera I could easily
>> disolve the glue and nothing would be different from
>> when I bought it.
>
> This is an excellent idea and will not harm the
>camera at all. AS for whacking it loose, I wouldn't
>concern myself too much. Loctite was formulated to
>prevent screws, bolts and the like from vibrating
>loose and backing out of their threads. Best of all,
>it's reversable. Great idea for this application,
>Shaun.
>
>Jon
>from Deepinaharta, Georgia
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
>I get most of my supplies from Fargo Enterprises (www.fargo-ent.com and
>specifically tools and supplies at www.micro-tools.com ). They have lots of
>lubes, like Nye Oil (for escapement mechanisms....self timer, etc.) and
>other Nye damping lubes that are good for focus mechanisms. For a
>degreaser/cleaner they sell a product called Asahiklin AK225, which is a
>freon substitute and works pretty well...at about $12/8oz spray can.
>
>
>Tony Zoccolillo
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
>Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 12:57 PM
>Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
>
>
>> Yes, but that might not be the right quality for use in camera shutters.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> ----------
>> >From: Laurence Cuffe Laurence.Cuffe@ucd.ie
>> >To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
>> >Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
>> >Date: Thu, Jan 20, 2000, 11:37 AM
>> >
>> >>> market. I have heard that jojoba oil, a plant extract, has most of
>the
>> >>> same
>> >>> properties but don't know where to get it.
>> > I dont know about its properties but you should get JoJoba oil in
>> > your local natural food store or pharmacy -its used as a masage oil
>> > Larry Cuffe
>>
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: Lucian Chis chis@ece.orst.edu
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
> I've also found suitable synthetic oil at hobby shops which specialize in
> model railroads. The brand sold locally is LaBelle. Their #101 is about the
> same stuff as Nye Oil. The requirement is an oil which is light enough not
> to cause drag and which does not become gummy with time.
> I suspect any vegetable oil will gum up pretty fast (except maybe castor
> oil).
> ----
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles,Ca.
> dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex Camera CLA tips - Need Help
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] New stuff (2.8C)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] New stuff (2.8C)
>Richard Knoppow wrote:
>
>> The haze inside lenses probably is caused by the anti-reflection paint
>> evaporating slowly. It seems to come off with plain lens cleaner or Windex
>> window cleaner but you have to get the lens open to get at it.
>
>Apart from the necessity for special tools, I take it this is NOT a
>job you can do on your own (though I've read some DYI postings
>regarding this task). Assembling the lens requires aligning them on
>a optical bench (not a houshold item), right?
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] in re slight out of focus at infinity
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999
From: "Sheldon D. Stokes" s.d.stokes@att.net
Subject: Re: [Rollei] in re slight out of focus at infinity
>In the absence of a collimator, the thing to do is put a ground
>glass on the back of the camera and check focus against the
>viewing lens at a variety of distances. If focus in both lenses
>agrees, then it does not matter that the focus goes slightly
>past infinity. Focus should be determined visually, even at
>infinity, rather than depending on rack stops.
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Tiltall tripod
>Richard Knoppow wrote:
>> Get the clamping collets off the Tiltall and clean them out very
>> carefully. Also make sure there is no grit up the legs. Relubricate the
>> collets with white grease. Tiltall's are prone to collect grit and sand.
>> The legs and clamps should work smoothly.
>
>Hi Richard!
>
> What do you mean by 'white grease'? Can you recommend a brand name?
>
> Thanks!
> Rich Lahrson
> tripspud@wenet.net
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000
From: Craig Roberts croberts@zoomtel.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Greasin' down a Tiltall tripod
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Rollei Lens Wrench
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000
In working on a couple of Rolleiflexes recently, I was stymied by a way
to remove the rear taking lens groups from deep in the body cavity. As
a firm believer in never using a lens wrench (I very much agree with
Steve Grimes) I was stopped dead. The lens is so deep and the gripping
surface so small it was nearly impossible to remove. Until I spotted a
set of coin tubes sitting on my workbench. These are the plastic tubes
you drop coins into before sliding them into the paper coin wrappers.
These were the straight-sided tubes, not the ones with a small cup at
the opening. I found that the 5 cent tube was a perfect match for the
inner lens group, and the right length, and with a slight pressure on
the lens outer ring, the lens group unscrewed and slid out. Very
slick.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] BLACK 35S made in Germany / screwing
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] BLACK 35S made in Germany / screwing
From: "David Foy" dfoy@marketactics.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Older camera advice
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT Screws
> It would appear that the the thing is screwed together and the heads of
> the screws clipped off. I suspect they have to be removed by drilling them
> out or by the use of an "Easy-Out" or somthing similar.
> Quality Light Metric in Hollywood repairs the things so there must be
> some way of getting them apart without destroying them.
> Weston cells, BTW, seem to hold up better than most others.
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] BLACK 35S made in Germany / screwing
> Although, the only good screw driver (and tools) manufacturer in the world
> is "Belzer" of Wuppertal.
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 'Flex intermittent shutter failure.
>imagineero . wrote:
>
>> I have had the same problem with both my rollei's(3.5E and T). Getting
>>
>> >the shutter cleaned cured it.
>> >
>> >Niels
>>
>> i assume you had this carried out by a serviceman rather than did it
>> yourself?
>
>> Do you know what type of solvents/lubricants were used in the cleaning
>> process? I assume it required full disassembly of the shutter itself?
>
>Yes, I had it done by a serviceman. I'm afraid I don't know exactly what
>he did.
>Niels
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000
From: Dirk-Roger Schmitt Dirk-Roger.Schmitt@dlr.de
Subject: [Rollei] Screws and screw drivers for your Rollei camera
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999
From: Andre Calciu a.calciu@anent.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Lens Repair
andre
From: "Bob Shell" bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] my new RTS
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000
From: Marthe & Rene marthe.rene@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:PLIOBOND
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000
From: DonjR43198@aol.com
Subject: Re: PLIOBOND
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches
>From: Carter Martin carter@mpdevinc.com
>Subject: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches
>Date: Sun, Apr 30, 2000, 7:34 AM
>
> Have any of the other 2000f/3003 users had similar experiences? Any
> suggestions on cleaning/inspection of the film transport? I have to think
> that it is a problem with deposits on the pressure plate and rollers since
> both seem too hard to be damaged under normal use.
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000
From: Tim Ellestad ellestad@mailbag.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches
ellestad@mailbag.com
>Thanks for the advice Bob. I tried cleaning the pressure plate with film
cleaner and a cotton cloth. I don't think it helped much. I will give the
detergent solution a shot. Guess there is a call to Marflex tomorrow
morning hoping they have a replacement pressure plate.
>
>Carter
>
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000
From: carter rollei@mpdevinc.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches - Some answers (maybe)
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000
From: carter rollei@mpdevinc.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches - Some answers (maybe)
Carter
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches - Some answers (maybe)
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches - Some answers (maybe)
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] 3003/Film Scratches - Some answers (maybe)
Date: Thu, 04 May 2000
From: "Bob Shell" bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] OT: Question about Pentax lenses.
Date: Thu, 04 May 2000
From: "Bob Shell" bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] Change the focusing screen
Date: Sat, 6 May 2000
From: PeteScherm@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hasselblad "special tool"
From Photo-3d mailing List:
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000
From: Brian Reynolds reynolds@panix.com
Subject: Bits and Pieces
Brian Reynolds
reynolds@panix.com
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000
From: "Bob Shell" bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] Replacement of camera top
From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000
From: John Collier jbcollier@home.com
Subject: Re: [Leica] DIY Rangefinder adjustments
> From: "Craig Roberts" croberts@zoomtel.com
>
> John Collier kindly wrote:
>
> "Here is a message from the archives:
> The three screws are almost exactly as you described. The third screw with
> the eccentric behind the rangefinder's arm....etc."
>
> YIKES!!! Many thanks...but I'll think I'll be sending my camera out, if
> necessary.
> I would like to know, though....behind a chrome plated cover screw next to
> the viewfinder "diffuser" window on my M3 is an adjustment screw. It seems
> to affect the vertical alignment of the coincident viewfinder images. Is
> this correct? Is this the same adjustment screw that's beneath the infamous
> "red dot" on an M6?
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 31 May 2000
Subject: Re: Wetla Weltaflex Mirror
> Well, you can try what everyone else does when an "unobtainable"
> front surface mirror goes T.U. - find a chunk of front surface
> mirror larger than the one you have and cut it to match the bad one.
> Either make a cardboard pattern for the cutting or take it to a glass
> shop so they can do it. Last FS mirror I took to a glass shop cost me
> $2.00 USD to have a duplicate cut - including polishing the edges.
>
> Regards,
>
> Marv
From: fotoralf@gmx.de (Ralf R. Radermacher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000
Subject: Re: flash capacitors
> So how is it that an electronic device, a capacitor, needs to be
> used in order for it to work reliably?
Ralf
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - K"ln/Cologne, Germany
Ralf's Cologne Tram Page - www.netcologne.de/~nc-radermra
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 09 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Source for Hasselblad Parts?
>All I need are three dark-slide light baffles (the 'foils') for the 12-size
>backs.
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] new member with problem
>Hello all,
>
>My name is Gene Johnson, and I'm new on this list. I started getting
>into old 120 rollfilm cameras about a year ago, and I'm the proud owner
>and user of two Rolleicords. I currently have a problem with one of
>them. It has a 3.5/75 Xenar, MX synch,and the number below the logo is
>1349665. The problem is that sometimes the winder locks up solid
>between the sixth and ninth frames. When it does this, the only way to
>free it is to open the back. I made a small attempt to remove the side
>cover to observe the film advance mechanism, but could not make out the
>right way to remove the winder or focus knobs. The winder knob looks
>like it is pressed onto it's shaft, and the focus knob has a pair of pin
>drive holes on top but didn't yield when I held the knob and tried to
>use a tool on the pin holes. I would be very grateful for any
>suggestions.
>
>Gene Johnson
>
>P.S. One drop of SHARPO on each of the knobs has made no difference yet.
OCEANSIDE CAMERA REPAIR
909 AVIATION BLVD. #4
MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266
hfleenor@beachnet.gen.ca.us 310-374-6506
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Source for Hasselblad Parts?
>All I need are three dark-slide light baffles (the 'foils') for the 12-size
>backs. Is there a source that will sell only a few of them to someone who
>is not a Hasselblad registered repair person? Address? Phone number?
>
>Thanks from Light-Leak USA. (Coping by taping over the back, but hating
>it...)
David Meiland
Oakland, CA
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Wetla Weltaflex Mirror
> Hi,
>
> I took my first steps into the world of medium format photography
> yesterday, by shooting a 120 roll of Fuji Sensia through a TLR Welta
> Weltaflex camera. The camera was a present from my father, who has had
> it since it was nearly new in the 50's. Although it appears to be in
> working condition (it's shot no pictures for about 10 years), it is in
> a sorry state. The main problem is the mirror used for the focusing
> screen. The silvering is coming off in places which has no effect on
> picture quality, but makes for a dim image to focus on.
>
> So in short, does anyone know where I can get a replacement mirror
> from / made? Preferably in the UK, but the mirror is small, light and
> easily removed so posting outside the UK is an option.
>
> Another option is the 'DIY' approach. I assume that because the
> silvering is on the top surface of the glass, the replacement would
> have to be on the top surface too, and be of the same thickness.
> Otherwise the overall distance from the lens to the focusing screen
> would chance and no longer be the same as the lens to negative
> distance which would result in out of focus negatives?
>
> Regards,
> Julian
> --------------------------------------------------
> Email: j[at]learmonth[d-o-t]net
> Home Page: http://www.learmonth.net
> PGP Key on Key Server. Fingerprint of key:
> 192B B6D2 3D47 00BE 6670 9D7A 4CAF 4784 CFBB EDF4
Date: Tue, 02 May 2000
From: Jim Brick jimbrick@photoaccess.com
Subject: [Leica] Re: Re: Re: M4-2 alignment...
>Jim,
>What does the tool look life? Does it bend something? Just curious.
>
>John Collier
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Cleaning old shutters - QUESTION
>I have a couple of old L.F. shutters I would like to clean myself. I
>used to be a clockmaker and believe I have the tools and experience to
>dismantle, clean and reassemble the shutters without problems. My
>question is about lubrication. Are
>shutters typically oiled with a special photographic shutter oil, clock
>oil or similar,
>or simply left dry? The oils I used on clocks were of such a formula
>that they didn't gum up for decades. They are also available in
>different viscosities. I have rad many times
>that oil on aperture or shutter blades is undesirable, but what about on
>the gear pivots
>as well as the leaf pivots?
>
>Anyone have any experience?
>
>Thanks,
>Walt Donovan
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] how to tighten film advance lever
> From: Uwe Friese friese@cogpsy.uni-trier.de
> Reply-To: contax@photo.cis.to
> Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000
> To: contax@photo.cis.to
> Subject: [CONTAX] how to tighten film advance lever
>
> Hello all,
>
> the film advance lever of my S2 has become very loose. I suppose I
> have to unscew the top cover of the lever to reach the right srews...
> but HOW and is this generally correct? It seems the appropriate tool
> must have two small rods with suitable diameter and distance from
> each other. Is this a common instrument I can buy just anywhere or is
> this something I shouldn't do myself?
>
> Best regards,
> Uwe
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Camera show Portland OR
>Now this caught my eye. Does ol' Ott sell friction? If so
>I have some lenses with loose focusing which could use
>a dab or two.
>
>Bob
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000
From: Bill Maloney bills188@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Viewfinder Ring
> Yes it is Loctite. but just to remind every body loctite comes
> in many
> varieties . the exact compound is LOCTITE 243 threadlocker. it
> is
> medium strength and vibration proof. The color of the compound
> is BLUE.
> There is another Loctite threadlocker which is in RED color.
> UNLESS YOU DON'T WANT TO OPEN THE SCREW FOREVER ,THAN
> USE IT. IF NOT AVOID IT!!!
Wayne, NJ USA
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] SLR Polariod Back and Films
> From: Yui Cheng chengyui@earthlink.net
> Reply-To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 10:59:11 -0700
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] SLR Polariod Back and Films
>
> Hello Bob,
> As you correctly pointed out, the rollers inside the back need cleaning. Any
> type of solvant that you can recommend? Regards, Yui
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000
From: Dave Huffman huff@teleport.com
Subject: Re: Set Of Jewelers Screwdrivers
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000
From: Mike Lipphardt mlipphardt@ameritech.net
Subject: Re: Set Of Jewelers Screwdrivers
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] KYOCERA/CONTAX REPAIR DEPT.
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: To those people that have purchased my magazine repair manual
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000
From: Mattei mattei@cts.com
Subject: Re: To those people that have purchased my magazine repair manual
From: Michael Briggs MichaelBriggs@EarthLink.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Tool to remove lens from lensboard?
> I want to be able to switch a lens from one lensboard to .........
> so I assume that there is a tool available that can be used to
> unscrew these. About how much do they cost and where can I find
> one?
>Although I plan on just hand tighting them when I switch between
> lens boards, if it isn't too expensive, I'd like to get one.
From: Kathleen O'Shaughnessy koshaugh@teleport.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Rollei: Bumps under the leather
> What are the bumps under the leather on my 2.8C ? Anything to
> worry about?
Date: Sat, 09 Sep 2000
From: Proxar Photo proxar@eudoramail.com
Subject: OILS AND GREASES
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000
From: Mark Bergman mb50742@navix.net
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Replacing the screen yourself?
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Replacing the screen yourself?
> I'm aware of the possible differences in the thickness of screens and was
> thinking of calibrating the focus by using the screen of the plate adapter.
> Other solution I'm thinking of is to measure the thickness of the screens
> and compensate the difference with shims. I was also hoping that the
> replacement screens may have the same thickness as the original.
>
> The reason why I don't want to send it to the reputated repair men mentioned
> previously is that it means sending the camera from the Netherlands to the
> US, which I do not prefer.
>
> Siu Fai
>
> From: jerryleh@pacbell.net
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 1:20 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Replacing the screen yourself?
>
>
> > Mr Au
> >
> > It's really a piece of cake, if you have the means to collimate the taking
> > and the viewing lens. Most of the replacement screens have differinf
> > thicknesses
> > compared to the original ground glass. The non-removable hood Rolleis
> > index on the top surface of the screen. The image is formed on the
> bottom.
> > Figure it out yourself. If you can't, then it doesn't matter, does it?
> >
> > Jerry
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Sandpapering screens
>Another approach, which i currently use on my 3.5F, is 3 strips of 3/4"
>Scotch tape, placed on a clear plastic sheet the same size as the
>original screen. It's quite a bit brighter in the center of the screen
>than in the corners, but it sure is easy to see when good focus is
>achieved. I used the plate glass back to achieve screen focus matching
>taking lens focus. The term "collimate" has been used recently to
>describe this matching of taking and viewing lens focus. Is this the
>proper term?
>paul
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000
Subject: Re: What can be done about brassing?
>Brassing, which seems to be a normal part of the aging of a camera, is
>mentioned often on "used" cameras for sale. My question, can it be
>restored? Is it just a matter of paint being worn off? Can a black body
>camera be repainted by service personnel to like new condition? And, if so,
>is the expense what precludes most owners from having it done?
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000
From: Mattei mattei@cts.com
Subject: Re: KRYTOX
>That's very nice comment, but it would be also helpful if you could provide
>us with some sort of lead to where we can order this lubricant from, just
>like Mr. Werner did.
>
>Thank you
>
>Milos
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Way OT Speed Graphic FP Shutter
>Good question. When working well, the FP shutter should be wonderful. Still,
>it's practically an antique. Will it work as it's suposed to? Can you find
>someone to fix it? I have a Super D Graflex SLR that uses the exact same
>shutter. The camera is in E+ condition but the shutter seems inconsistant and
>too fast ! I'm still evaluating it. Arthur
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000
From: Steven Morton Steven.Morton@sci.monash.edu.au
To: panorama-l@sci.monash.edu.au
Subject: Re: springs
Steve
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000
From: Steven Morton Steven.Morton@sci.monash.edu.au
Subject: Re: How to make springs
Steve
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Way OT Speed Graphic FP Shutter
>Arthur,
>
>I am not sure who can do this work.
>
>There is a guy who did major Graflex work and bought out their parts stock
>when Graflex capsized. I cannot remember his name, but he lives in Nevada.
>
>I know that a few years ago he sold some (or all) of his stock of parts to
>Midwest Photo Exchange in Columbus Ohio. Maybe someone else on the list
>remembers his name and contact information.
>
>Andrei, can you recommend someone to look at my Graflex shutter? Arthur
Reno, NV 89515, 702-826-3056.
Graflex Parts
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000
From: "Owen P. Evans" opevans@istar.ca
Subject: Fw: Oils & Grease
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kalart RF Adjustment Question
>I'm adjusting my Kalart rangefinder for near focus, which for my 4x5
>with 135mm lens is 3.5 feet. This creates a parallax problem at this
>distance. According to the manual, you compensate by lining up the RF
>window and lens in a particular manner. While outlined, the
>instructions are unclear to me. I'm looking for some clarification as
>to exactly what I'm supposed to do. The instructions are shown in a box
>at the bottom of page 8 of an on-line manual at
>http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-manual.html .
>The three vertical distances are difficult to make out, but appear to be
>from left to right
>6 3/4", 6", and 5 1/8". A text-only version discusses this issue in the
>last three paragraphs of
>http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-adjustment.html .
>Any held is very much appreciated.
Lens FL 15ft 4ft
127mm 13 3.0
135mm 15 3.5
152mm 17 5.0
162mm 17 6.0
165mm 19 6.0
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kalart Rangefinders
>How many different Kalart _coupled_ rangefinders were made? Please tell me
>just two. I have one that is too short for the mounts on my strange 5x4.
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "jjs" john@stafford.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kalart Rangefinders
> [snip helpful information]
> Also, which stange 4x5 is this? You have me intrigued:-)
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Kalart Rangefinders
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From COntax Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] First Hassy experience
> From: "wei zhang" milklover2@hotmail.com
> Reply-To: contax@photo.cis.to
> Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 04:41:35 GMT
> To: contax@photo.cis.to
> Subject: [CONTAX] First Hassy experience
>
> Just shot a roll of Kodak Portra VC with this Hasselblad 500C I just
> recently got today. Turnout that the photos are very sharp (don't we love
> CZ Planar?!), but the back appeared leaking light. Anyone has problem like
> this before? What do you do? Where do you send it to? and how much for
> back maintainance?
>
> Thanks.
> Wei
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [CONTAX] WTB used RTS II and 35-70 VS
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000
From: "R. Peters" torx@nwrain.net
Subject: [Rollei] Removing dents
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000
From: Henry Posner/B&H; Photo-Video henryp@bhphotovideo.com
Subject: [NIKON] Re: cleaning focus screens
>Well, most focusing screens on pro bodies are removable. Take them out and
>use a microfiber cloth to clean them. But I suspect you don't mean "focus
>screens," you mean you see dirt and grime through the viewfinder and want to
>clean whatever is causing the problem. That could be mirror, focus screen,
>or prism.
regards,
Henry Posner
Director of Sales and Training
B&H; Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] Re: (Contax) bubbles on the rubber
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: rollei 6006/8 fuses
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: rollei 6006/8 fuses
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
From: calciua@hn.va.nec.com
Subject: [Rollei] Lubricating oils (was rollei 6006/8 fuses)
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: rollei 6006/8 fuses
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] bubbles on the rubber
> From: Stephen Woolfenden swoolf@global.co.za
> Organization: Circulation & Management Services
> Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000
> Subject: Re: [CONTAX] bubbles on the rubber
>
> I'm going to try sticking the offending bit down before it spreads to far -
> any suggestions as to what sort of glue to use? I'm undecided between
> "superglue" and contact type adhesive....
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Lubricating oils
> From: "Owen P. Evans" opevans@istar.ca
> Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000
> Subject: [Rollei] Re: rollei 6006/8 fuses / Lubricating oils
>
> Hello everyone,
> For what it is worth, this type of thread also permeated the HUG and some
> interesting information came forth from the 'Blad users. It turns out that
> Hasselblad and their authorised repair facilities use two lubricants
> exclusively.
> The oil is: Tempra Oil and the grease is: Techn.Lubricant Losoid 3340.
> Both of these can be purchased from the folks at:
> www.losimol.de/pages/english.htm
> I checked it out and their minmum quantity purchase is far more than anyone
> would use in a lifetime unless you are in the business. The cost is a few
> hundred dollars too.
> From: "J.Magunna" losimol@t-online.de
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
> From: curtiscr@pe.net
> Reply-To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 15:38:41 -0700
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
>
> Books I have on camera repair suggest lighter fluid as a solvent to
> clean out old congealed lubricants. I'm not a smoker, and when I
> asked at the local supermarket for lighter fluid, I was asked, "Butane
> or regular?" And it turned out they didn't have it anyway. Is there a
> readily-available substitute?
> --
> Curtis Croulet
> Temecula, California
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
>Books I have on camera repair suggest lighter fluid as a solvent to
>clean out old congealed lubricants. I'm not a smoker, and when I
>asked at the local supermarket for lighter fluid, I was asked, "Butane
>or regular?" And it turned out they didn't have it anyway. Is there a
>readily-available substitute?
>--
>Curtis Croulet
>Temecula, California
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
> From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
> Reply-To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
>
> I've found
> suitable very light oil in model train stores under the name LeBell. It
> should be applied _very_ sparingly. Brush a little out on a dish and pick
> it up with the end of a fine brush to apply it. The end of a wooden
> toothpick works for some things.
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000
From: RalphRamey@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: camera repair
From: Nyoil@aol.com
To: rmonagha@post.cis.smu.edu
Subject: Nye lubricants
Contact Tom Madden at:
TAI Lubricants
PO Box 1579
Hockessin, DE 19707
(302) 326-0200 phone
(302) 326-0400 fax
NyOil@aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000
From: paul easton eastonpa@cadvision.com
Subject: Re: 75-150 slip - grease it.
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000
From: Nikon Cameras NikonCameras@asean-mail.com
Subject: Loose Eyepieces
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000
From: Proxar Photo proxar@eudoramail.com
To: rmonagha@mail.smu.edu
Subject: HASSELBLAD LUBRICANTS
(proxar@eudoramail.com)
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000
From: Jim Brick jim@brick.org
Subject: [Leica] Re: I go historical/Walt
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 2000
From: Jim Brick jim@brick.org
Subject: [Leica] Walt, you are dead wrong
>Walter S Delesandri wrote:
>[snip]
>>
>>I stand by my statement that to adjust the RF you SHOULD take the top off..
>>I've done two in two weeks that way....
>>
>>Just because someone came up with a kludged tool AFTER THE FACT that
>>CAN (?) adjust the RF doesn't mean it was designed that way.....hell,
>>I know all kind of ways to cheat on cameras, cars, audio, etc.....but
>>then, how could I >PROVE< what engineers were thinking 20 years ago?
LEICA USA
156 LUDLOW AVE.
NORTHVALE, NJ
BRICK 6/11/99 ASAP PREPAID
ITEM DESCRIPTION
150000001279 ADJ. RF M4P,M6
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000
From: "Kotsinadelis, Peter (Peter)" peterk@avaya.com
Subject: RE: [Rollei] preserving rollei cases
-----Original Message-----
From: Newhouse230@aol.com [mailto:Newhouse230@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2000 10:10 AM
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Subject: [Rollei] preserving rollei cases
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Rollei Repair book and one Rolleiflex question
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000
From: sover.wong@alcatel.com.au
Subject: Re : Cleaning F2 Focusing Screens
From: "PhotoMan" satchmo@wfeca.net
[1] Helpful hint for DIY repairs
Date: Mon Dec 25 19:29:13 CST 2000
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000
From: J Patric Dahl,n jenspatricdahlen@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] shutter testing page found!
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Cleaning an old Polaroid 500 back
>I've managed to pick up an old (grey) Polaroid 500 4x5 back. It works well
>enough but I know that I'll eventually have to clean the rollers. I can't see a
>way to get them out to clean them. Any advice? TIA.
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
> From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
> Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
>
> I am informed by a friend who works with very advanced optical systems
> that pure methyl alcohol is now the precribed standard cleaner for optical
> parts. I don't know about shutters but I doubt it would damage anything. I
> would check it on the paint.
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
> From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
> Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
>
> They are comparitively safe, but still
> fire hazards and toxic if you breath enough vapors. Boy, that doesn't leave
> much.
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000
From: jerryleh@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: [Rollei] shutter testing page found!
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Shutter cleaning with alchol?
>Richard,
>
>I was wondering about warming a shutter up to a couple hundred degrees,
>steam cleaning it , then returning to a 150 degree or so oven to make
>sure no moisture could remain. I think I'm going to try this on an old
>Kodak or something. What do you think?
>
>Gene Johnson
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001
From: Bob Shell 76750.2717@compuserve.com
Subject: [Rollei] Rollei 35S top cover/lense barrel
>1) the top cover is dented and buckled due to a crash. Unfortunally the
>dents
>are blocking the advance lever. So my question is where to get a new top
>cover? Are they still available or do I have to butcher another Rollei
>to get
>one?
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001
From: imagineero imagineero@xv1100.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Slow speed escapement question
viscosity 9010 9030
@0C 625cSt 180cSt
@20C 150cSt 60cSt
@50C 31cSt 16cSt
pour point -40C -50C
South Korea
>>Since I've been tinkering with cameras I haven't been
>>able to decide whether to oil slow speed mechanisms
>>or not. I've experimented with absolutely bone dry
>>degreased mechanisms and have found the movement
>>to be super smooth with very little start up torque reqd.
>>I've also been able to run them without trouble and
>>apparently without undue wear.
>>Using light machine oil works also, but if oil is used,
>>it will without exception eventually evaporate and turn into
>>gum mixed in with every particle of dirt it came into
>>contact with. On the other hand, oiled mechanisms may
>>last longer.What's the consensus on this?
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Lubricating aperture blades
>The diaphragm of my lens in a Linhof shutter sometimes sticks a little in
>one place, causing the flat surface of the aperture to bulge up. This seems
>to be due to a lack of lubrication of the blades. Is it safe to apply a very
>light coating of oil with a cotton
>swab to lubricate this? Of course, I would remove the lens elements
first.
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001
To: cameramakers@opusis.com
From: Sandy King sanking@hubcap.clemson.edu
Subject: [Cameramakers] Source for Knobs, Locking Nuts, etc.
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000
From: Kelvin Lee kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Metered prism finders for S2A?
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Need help
>Hi all,
>
> I am new to the Rollei list. I am a collector of
>old cameras and I own two Rolleis: A Rolleiflex and
>a Rollei 35.
> Unfortunately, the Rolleiflex seems to be broken.
>When I put film in it, turning the lever advances it,
>but it doesn't stop to allow me to take a picture.
>It worked before so I don't know what broke it. The
>shutter also doesn't open any longer - I guess the
>whole system is either broken or somehow stuck. Does
>anybody either know a solution to the problem or
>know the address of an expert I could send the camera
>to to have it checked out and, if necessary,
>repaired? That'd be awesome!
>
>Thanks!
>
>Joerg
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "PhotoMan" satchmo@wfeca.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Cleaning White Numbers/Letters on Lens
> Very little Windex on a Qtip works every time
>
> "Downley" downley@aol.com wrote in message
> > Subject line says it all, really. Is there a knack to cleaning the white
> depth
> > of field numbers and letters on lens barrels? Some of mine are so smutty
> > they're getting difficult to read. Thanks in advance for any help.
> > Regards, Alan
From: Kirk kirkdarlingnotathome@mindspring.com
[1] Re: Cleaning White Numbers/Letters on Lens
Date: Sun Jan 28 22:52:03 CST 2001
> Subject line says it all, really. Is there a knack to cleaning the white depth
> of field numbers and letters on lens barrels? Some of mine are so smutty
> they're getting difficult to read. Thanks in advance for any help.
> Regards, Alan
Kirk
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: jbh@magicnet.net (John Hicks)
[1] Re: Mamiya 6 150mm lens
Date: Mon Jan 29 20:39:12 CST 2001
>Hi all,
>
>I just acquired a 150mm lens and it does not meter properly.
John Hicks
From: "Robert E. Smith" rsmith@dmv.com
Newsgroups:
rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Cleaning solution for battery ooze?
> There is a solution often recommended for cleaning battery leakage.
> Anybody remember what it is?
>
> --
> Kirk
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001
From: J Patric Dahl,n jenspatricdahlen@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei Users list digest V9 #45
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] How to prevent cracks in rubber shades
> From: Bill Grimwood Bill@grimwood.net
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] How to prevent cracks in rubber shades
>
> When I was a child and flew model airplanes powered by rubber bands we used
> castor oil to lubricate and prevent the rubber bands from cracking. I
> wonder if a little rubbed in a rubber shade would help protect it.
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001
From: Richard Urmonas rurmonas@senet.com.au
Subject: Re: [Rollei] How to prevent cracks in rubber shades
> I suggest that you use Armorall on the outside only of your
> rubber lens-hoods.
rurmonas@ieee.org
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001
From: jerryleh@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: [Rollei] How to prevent cracks in rubber shades
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000
From: "Mark McGilvray" mcgilvra@ns.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: A tale of ground glass alignment
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000
Subject: Re: A tale of ground glass alignment
>I'd be interested in this procedure also. Sounds like a good way to tune
>up my stuff during the winter :)
>
>Elvis
>
>ArtFish artfish@mediaone.net wrote:
>> How do you measure them with a depth gauge ?
>> Were do measure?
>> What dose a depth gauge look like?
>> Thank you
>> Arthur
Size Location Tolerance + or -
4x5 0.197 0.007
5x7 0.228 0.010
8x10 0.260 0.016
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000
Subject: Re: A tale of ground glass alignment
>Thank you all for all the good info
>And a special thanks to you Richard Knoppow
>All I need now is a good reference surface
>Thanks
>Arthur
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000
Subject: I use glass and a dial indicating micrometer...
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei 35 repair question
> From: "John A. Lind" jlind@netusa1.net
> Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei 35 repair question
>
> A lens mounting screw came loose once in my 35T, but as I recall there were
> three screws holding the Tessar onto its mount. Anyway, when it happened,
> the it made a very ugly rattling sound. Opened up the 35T in panic, found
> the screw was the source of the rattle (whew!), put it back into its hole,
> tightened it up with a jeweler's driver, and it never came loose again.
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001
Subject: Re: Copal shutter repair (at home)
>I have a copal no. 1 shutter that has the speed jammed at 250 and 400. It
>fires at both speeds but the dial won't turn to the lower speeds. I have my
>tiny screwdrivers ready to go. Is there a site that shows a picture of what
>I can expect to find and some hints?
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Slow shutter
> Finally finding time to go out and take pictures again, and I found some
> disappointment.
>
> The shutter on my 150/4 (chrome C) works great with all apertures except f22
> and f32. On those, the lens takes ~1/8s to stop down to the selected
> aperture.
>
> I'm not pleased. This lens was serviced 6 months ago by Bill Maxwell, who
> did a great job in that he fixed problems other (highly rated) service shops
> hadn't been able to address.
>
> There isn't any oil visible on any of the blades, front or back.
>
> Any idea what the cause might be? Any thoughts on what it'll cost to fix?
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
I forgot to add one thing. After you have done as I said to make the
repair, let the lens sit for about an hour with the lens cells out. Let
it dry out real well, then double check to see that all is fine. At this
point, put the cells back into place and have some fun shooting the
camera.
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Slow shutter
> Aren't there a number of other parts to remove before getting to the
> point where the lens cells can simply be unscrewed?
>So it's ok to try and do this myself? No real "gotchas" to worry about?
> Anyway, when do you think your book will be available, and at what
> price?
>Do you have a current list of available repair books?
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Spanner wrench(es)
> Since Dr. Werner mentioned it in his recent reply to Derek, it seems
> good time to ask this question.
>
> Which spanner wrench(es) do those of you who have them recommend? And
> from what source are they available?
>
> I made the mistake of calling MicroTools to ask and all I got was
> rudeness and runaround.
>
> Specifically interested in which tip style and size works with the
> older (i.e. 'C') 'blad lenses as those are what I have.
>
> What works for you? TIA!/Scott Gardner
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: Jammed shutter on Kodak Medalist II
>Are there any quick and easy possible fixes prior to sending it out?
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: Kelly Adams kadams@pcc.pitt.cc.nc.us
Subject: Re: lens repair.
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: Waldo Berry WBERRY@dce.ksu.edu
Subject: Re: lens repair.
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: Waldo Berry WBERRY@dce.ksu.edu
Subject: Re: lens repair.
--
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] ARGH! Sorensen and the Filter Myth!
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: "Gumm, Jim" Jim.Gumm@okdhs.org
Subject: lens repair.
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001
From: Waldo Berry WBERRY@dce.ksu.edu
Subject: Re: lens repair.
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 25 Feb 2001
Subject: Re: DIY lens repair?
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001
Subject: Re: DIY lens repair?
> This is a simple repair. The problem is oil on the blades.
Ralf
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - K"ln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage at: http://www.free-photons.de
picture galleries - classic and mechanical cameras
Contarex - Kiev - Horizon - P6 mount lens table
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001
From: Jack Kirkhuff targahh@mcn.net
Subject: RE: Foam seal on Film Door (XG-M)
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001
From: Vick Ko vick.ko@sympatico.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Correction on Moskva-5 question
Vick
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001
From: WaiYuHo waiyuho@earthlink.net
To: 'Robert Monaghan' rmonagha@post.cis.smu.edu
Subject: RE: cannot remove old cement
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: ? Replacement screws/nuts for old folders
> Where is there a good source of small screws/nuts for old folders? I
> often come across screws/nuts that are missing or the threads ruined or
> the screw slot spoiled and they need to be replaced. But there must be a
> host of different screws with different screw sizes and different
> lengths and different heads. Can you get srews like the ones used on
> these old folders?
From: "Dave Robertson" davidr@delphian.org
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] View camera
Sheridan, OR
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001
From: hvanclee@nyx10.nyx.net (Henry van Cleef)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Any Zeiss folding camera (532/16) experts out there?
>2) where are the screws to remove the top plate? Under the leather?
>3) There are Zeiss bumps - I haven't followed the threads - but
> are the bumps due to age and corrosion building up into a bump?
>4) the shutter won't cock if I set it to B, but I can "trick" it into
> the B setting. Do you know if a simple cleaning of the shutter
> will cure this?
>5) can anyone describe the steps to remove the rangefinder to
> get to the shutter?
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Any Zeiss folding camera (532/16) experts out there?
> I would suggest that you not take the shutter apart unless you have
> instructions for getting it back together. Also, the winder mechanism
> and release interlock is a bit tricky to reassemble, and there is a
> differential gear that is easy to strip under the winder knob.
> You'll disengage the rangefinder gears when you take the front off,
> so be prepared to re-time the rangefinder if you take it apart.
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-formatD
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001
Subject: Re: Caring for LF equipment
>I recently acquired an Omega D camera and I have a few questions regarding
>how to care for it in the field. Yes, I am using the monorail in the field.
>Dust accumulation is inevitable over a course of time and I'm wondering how
>once should clean the standards especially near the moving parts. Is a cloth
>dampened with WD40 recommended to clean away any grime and keep the parts
>lubricated?
>Secondly, is a lens cleaning liquid an appropriate solution to clean ground
>glass?
> Are there solutions that I can use to clean the bellows in order to
>keep them supple?
>Finally, how does one store the camera? I've looked at the Toyo aluminium
>cases and they are mighty expensive. Are there cheaper solutions? I remember
>somebody mentioning that they stow away their folded cameras in their photo
>backpacks. I'm looking for suggestions that would both protect the camera as
>well as work out as a cheaper alternative to a hard case.
>
>Thanks.
>Nandakumar
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001
From: rurmonas@senet.com.au
Subject: Re: [RF List] Oil on aperature blades
> What is the big deal regarding 'dry' aperature blades in an old lens?
> If they are 'wet'/have oil on them ..... is cleaning a lens/For a Leica ..
> that big a deal.
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001
From: winfried_bue clubs-mail@yahoo-inc.com
Subject: Re: Konica C35 Meter [Yahoo! Clubs: Classic 35mm Compacts]
From: "Robert Stoddard" heldenheit@hotmail.com
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] CZJ 135/4 - Help! Heliocord
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: CZJ 135/4 - Help! Heliocord
> From: "Kelvin" kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
> Date: Wed, 16 May 2001
> Subject: [russiancamera] CZJ 135/4 - Help! Heliocord
>
> Hi
>
> I had to re-grease the heliocoid of my CZJ 135/4 (in M42) yesterday
> and now I can't seem to get it back toghether. The problem seems to lie
> with what is the best way to line up the three variables:
>
> 1. The straight clockwise turning thread
> 2. The slanted anti-clockwise turning heliocord thread (which seems able to
> go in
> from any position)
> 3. the marker which runs in the groove straight from (2)
>
> Any advice?
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001
From: Jos, Ram>n Garc-a Men,ndez joseramon@elsitio.net
Subject: Contax Shutter tape
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001
From: Rick Oleson rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Contax Shutter Tapes - what I use
> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 15:20:13 -0000
> From: dmills@Harrison.k12.ky.us
> Subject: Contax Shutter Tapes
>
> Does anyone out there know of a source for
> replacement shutter tapes
> for the Contax II and III?
>
> It seems to me that I heard somewhere that Kiev
> replacement tapes can
> be used, but where does one find Kiev tapes?
>
> My tapes appear to be about 3mm and quite thin.
> Ordinary shutter
> tape for fabric shutters is about 4mm and thicker
> than the Contax
> tapes.
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001
From: "Mills, Don - Finance Officer" dmills@Harrison.k12.ky.us
Subject: RE: Contax Shutter Tapes - what I use
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001
From: "Warren Winter" wwinter@goldenapple.com
Subject: Contax Tape - The Scoop!
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001
From: Pat Mullen gator6@prodigy.net
Subject: Re: Contax Shutter Tapes
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Contax Shutter Tapes
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: the ribbon spools......
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help me debug this
>No, it is not software.
>
>I have an 85mm f/2.8 Carl Zeiss Sonnar Serial number 5284527 in Rollei SLR
>mount (the 35mm SLR). It has a 4mm dead bug inside. I think it is between
>the rear element and the diaphragm, but I could be wrong.
>
>What is the proper dismantling procedure for this lens, so I can debug it.
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001
From: "Mikhail Konovalov" m_konovalov@mail.ru
Subject: Re: New Camera Repair Group
Misha
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001
From: "Keith Berry" k.berry@telinco.co.uk
Subject: Re: New Camera Repair Group
>... well, there is such a mailing list:
>
> camera-repair@lists.cdegroot.com
>
> It doesn't have very much traffic, but then it started out not long ago.
- Keith Berry
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001
From: Javier Perez summarex@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: New Camera Repair Group
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001
From: Javier Perez summarex@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: New Camera Repair Group
Javier
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001
From: Gene Johnson genej2@home.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Mirror damping material...
> I put in the velcro material and it works great. I went to the tool site and
> found what I had been looking for and will order some ot replace the velcro
> with. I would like to thank you guys very much and think this list is one of
> the best things on the WEB!
>
>
> I am considering opening up my Calumet Caltar lens/shutter and cleaning it as
> it is getting sticky. Any recommendations on what to clean and lub it with?
>
> Thanks again,
> Fred
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001
From: flexaret@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: survey of good/bad Kievs to estimate Q/C issues?
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001
From: ian barnes blad@ianbarnes.co.uk
Subject: fungus
From: "PDXTWINS" PDXTWINS@email.msn.com
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001
Subject: Re: How does Bronica back detect film?
www.mfcrepair.com
> Trying to troubleshoot an ETRS 120i film back, I am puzzling how the
> back knows when film is actually loaded so that the frame counter
> advances to the "S" position when the crank handle is operated. I can
> see no evidence of any sort of plunger, nor does the pressure plate
> depression seem to operate anything. The "take-off" reel seems just to
> revolve on stationary spigots, so that doesn't play a part. So how
> does it know?
>
> Allied to this, when the crank handle is operated mid-reel with the
> back off the camera, it doesn't advance the film (does it?). How does
> it know that too?
>
> Hoping someone can help me not to lose sleep puzzling any more :-)
>
> --
> John Gruffydd (Mold, Wales, UK)
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Film holder hinge tape
>Since my "Where can I find" questions have been very helpful in the past.....
>Where can I find Film Holder Hinge Tape....I prefer not using black duct tape.
>
>Thanks,
>Ed
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: "Brian Ellis" bellis60@earthlink.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Film holder hinge tape
> "Edward Clayton" egclayton@msn.com wrote
> > Since my "Where can I find" questions have been very helpful in the
> past.....
> > Where can I find Film Holder Hinge Tape....I prefer not using black duct
> tape.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ed
>
> A company called Filmoplast makes a line of tapes intended for book repair
> and book binding. These work very well for bellows repair, film holder
> hinges, and other "hingy" problems in photography. One of the line is
> called SH Tape. It's a white linen tape that hinges very nicely. They also
> have a thing called T tape, which comes in colors. It's rayon and will
> break down in sunlight over time. But it is strong and flexible.
> Bookbinders or your public library might give you a little if you need to
> repair one or two holders. You can buy it for under $10 per 10 yard roll.
> Try Talas in NYC if you can't find a local supplier.
>
> Hope this helps.
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001
From: Barry Young barryjyoung@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Mirror damping material...
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001
From: Barry Young barryjyoung@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Mirror damping material...
> Ronson lighter fluid. I've used Vaseline for the
> grease. Don't laugh.
> It works pretty well. Great on camera body leather
> too.
>
> Gene
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Bronica S assembly/repair
> From: "Kelvin" kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
> Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Bronica S assembly/repair
>
> The most useful is the spanner wrench set for the notches on
> lens rings. Microtools has them. Get the more expensive ones
> if you can afford it - they're better than the budget set I bought
> from them.
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Introduction
>I've cleaned shutters with lighter fluid before. I've never cleaned
>diaphragm blades, though. One thing I remember about lens diaphragms
>is that they are less likely to have problems if you keep the lens
>standing on end so the diaphragm will be horizontal. That way oil is
>less likely to run down them.
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001
From: J-2 nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Problem Child Canon
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001
From: "Ingemar Lindahl" ilindahl@telia.com
Subject: Re: Konica glue?
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001
From: Dave Preece dave_preece@yahoo.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Tool suppliers
http://www.expotools.com
Hi,
http://www.expotools.com
Expo Drills & Tools are worth a look for basic
(non-specialist) small screwdrivers, drills, tweezers
etc. Particularly if you live in the UK (they do post
internationally).
http://www.expotools.com
I bought most of mine from here.
http://www.expotools.com
http://www.expotools.com
From: Anders Svensson anders.-.eivor.svensson@swipnet.se
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: CdS cell Life Span
> Nonsense! Most erratic behaviour is due to corrosion or wear of the
> aperture/speed resistors. This is very true for first and 2nd
> generation
> Nikkormats.
> In all the cameras I have gone through I have found only one u/s cell
> (shorted)
>
> Henk
Anders Svensson
mail: anders.-.eivor.svensson@swipnet.se
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: Jim Brick jim@brick.org
Subject: [Leica] Re: Re: M4-2 alignment...
>Later M4-2s have no internal adjustment screw and require the same tool as
>the M6. There is also no red dot with its large access hole so probably you
>have to take the top plate off.
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: Jim Brick jimbrick@photoaccess.com
Subject: [Leica] Re: M4-2 drop...
>
>Just had my M4-2 back after rf adjustment and the vertical alignement is
>still out!!
>
>Julian
From: J-2 nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Tools
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] battery still stuck
From: mailto:kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg kelvin
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] battery still stuck
From: sandbasser2000@yahoo.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Question on surface coating/painting.
From: J-2 nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Fg repair
>I have a old fg which the door latch isnt as tight anymore and it seems to
>open with a little finger pressure applied to it. Any suggestions other than
>the tride and true gaffers tape? It seems to locking mechanism isn't as
>strong as it used to be.
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001
From: helenadick@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: side of A12 back is loose
> Dear HUG-
>
> I noticed recently that the non-insert side of one of my backs (the side
> with the winding crank) is loose, so that a slight gap along the edge has
> opened up (I just hold the side tight when winding). To date, there has
> been no light leak. However, I could not find a screw to tighten it, so I
> assume that the screw is underneath the leatherette. Before taking that
> off, I thought I would ask if I should have the back repaired
> professionally (i.e. there is a rivet or something hard to fix) or if there
> is a simple screw that needs tightening underneath.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
>
> Michael Waldron
> michael@cadogan.net
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
helenadick@worldnet.att.net
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/manual.txt
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001
From: "David Foy" dfoy@marketactics.com
Subject: Backsighting (was RE: [RF List] Setting Focus on a Konica C-35)
_________________
| \ / |
| \/ |
| /\ |
| / \ |
__________________
From: J-2 nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Special wrenches - homebrew methods?
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Introduction
>Sometimes sticky irises in lenses can be fixed simply by working the
>diaphragm regularly. Camera shutters that are sticky may also be
>helped this way.
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001
From: bennydrinnon@hotmail.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Introduction
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: WD-40
> From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
> Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: WD-40
>
> BTW, I used acetone to clean some REALLY stubbon stains on a lens...
> it seems really clean now. Anyone got comments?
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001
From: camfix@webtv.net
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Spotmatic meter
From: Glenn Stewart -Arizona- gstewart@inficad.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Camera Repair--Gluing Felt to Brass
> I am repairing a filmback from a Mamiya Press camera and have come up
> against the problem of
> gluing a piece of felt to a piece of springy brass material. This
> assembly seals the slot where
> the dark slide enters the filmback.
>
> Could someone recommend an adhesive that is appropriate for gluing the
> felt to the glass? The
> back of the felt is not fuzzy, but seems to have a 'hardened' surface,
> maybe so that the glue
> won't soak all the way through.
> Thanks,
> Bob
--
Photo web pages at: http://www.inficad.com/~gstewart/
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001
From: Kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Minolta XG7
From: abw@netconnect.com.au
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Minolta XG7
> before you take the top off, make sure the base of the battery holder is
> clean - it only takes a tiny bit of crap or corrosion to break the circuit,
> and stop the camera from working. Just clean it with a cotton bud dipped in
> metholated spirits or a piece of cloth to shine it up.
> Alan
From: camfix@webtv.net
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re:Sluggish diaphram
From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] paint etching
>Painting the engraved letters - you can actually do this with a
>clever trick that works well and quite easily. Paint the letters
>with no great care, but making sure not to let paint get into the
>mechanical workings of the lens. When the paint has taken a "set",
>simply take a very tightly woven piece of cloth with a hint of
>solvent appropriate for the paint you are using, and wipe the paint
>off the surface of the ring, while holding the cloth taut with very
>light pressure on the ring, and the depressed areas will retain the
>paint and the raised areas will give it up. Old model car building
>trick...
>
>ppro
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001
From: Victor Helis heli@inbox.ru
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] testing speed with flash
> so based on the data that at synch speed the shutter is fully exposed
> then if properly caliberated the next speed will only expose 1/2 the
> shutter, next is 1/2 of the previous speed i.e. 1/4th, then 1/2 again
> i.e 1/8th and so on.........
> TIA
> parlin
Togliatti, Russia
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001
From: Thomas Wicklund wicklund@eskimo.com
Subject: [camera-fix] testing speed with flash
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001
From: Rick Oleson rick_oleson@yahoo.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Replacing Shutter Curtains in Pentacon/Contax SLR
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001
From: Don Tuleja durocshark@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Flash Repair
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_strbfaq.html
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001
From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] restoring chrome
From: Gene Johnson <genej2@home.com>
Reply to: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Subject: Re: [Rollei] One frame is missing
I had the same experience,
With Richard's help, I got the side cover off, and applied a few tiny
drops of liquid wrench to the mechanisms. Like Richard, mine has worked
fine since.
Gene Johnson
Richard Knoppow wrote:
>you wrote:
> >Once in a great while my R'cord V doesn't expose a frame and
> >I have only 11 shots on the roll instead of 12. It usually happens
> >somewhere in the middle rather than at the ends of the roll. Time
> >for a CLA perhaps? I never actually had it CLA'd but the shutter
> >and lenses are in great condition.
> >
> I had a problem with a Rolleicord IV something like this. The trouble was
> gummy lubrication on part of the wind-counter mechanism. I cleaned this one
> myself and its been flawless since.
> ----
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles,Ca.
> dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: Victor Helis <heli@inbox.ru>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Looking to locate a Minolta XD repair part.
Look at here: The Catalog PARTS CAMERAS
(http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/catalog/cp11.htm) of
www.pacificrimcamera.com
If you find new links to PARTS CAMERAS, inform me please.
Vic.
From: Mark Overton <mark@sdd.hp.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: random musings on solvents
At auto-parts stores, one can find a non-trichlor cleaner called
CRC QD Electronics Cleaner. It is based on methanol and hexanes,
and works great. It's about $6 per can. Do NOT get the similarly
named Electric Cleaner at about $3 per can -- that stuff uses
trichloroethane.
That CRC QD Electronics Cleaner is the cheapest product like this
that I can find. The LPS product costs almost twice as much.
Mark Overton
From: Ron Schwarz <rs@clubvb.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: random musings on solvents
>that I can find. The LPS product costs almost twice as much.
The advantage the "TF-like" cleaners have over all others is that they
won't harm anything you don't want removed (i.e., plastic, ink, paint,
etc.) They're murder on oils, greases, dirt, and pretty much any kind of
gunk, leave *no* residue whatsoever, and leave the parts you're cleaning
completely unharmed.
I found that I could spray the hell out of a leaf shutter (after removing
the lens cells) without taking it apart any further than removing the cam
plate, and for "simple" cases of removing oil from the blades, I didn't
even have to take them apart at all.
I'd never consider such a stunt with any conventional (alcohol or petroleum
distillate based) solvents.
From: Bob Shell <bob@bobshell.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Stuck screws
> From: twl@alltel.net
> Reply-To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [camera-fix] Stuck screws
>
> I'm in a Nikon lens and had 2 groups of 3 screw (00 phillips).
Phillips screws!! Using a Phillips driver is a recipe for disaster unless
you grind off the point. Get a proper set of cross point screwdrivers and
you won't have this problem.
Try denatured ethyl alcohol on the lacquer they use on the screws.
Bob
From: mark@sdd.hp.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of Contaflices ]
Hi All,
I just subscribed to this group a few minutes ago, being referred
to it by a seller on eBay. But I already see a few familiar names
here (members of the IDCC list).
> What do you use to reassemble shutter blades - to keep them
> from falling out during the assembly.
Here's a trick I use with great success:
I have cut a small piece of foam rubber into a circular shape
so that it just fits into a shutter's throat. When putting
blades back on the shutter, this foam in the throat prevents
the blades from falling into it.
After the blades are placed on the shutter-mech, I hold the shutter
horizontally (blades still facing up), and fit the housing down onto
it. This is a bit awkward because I have to look up to see how
everything is fitting together, but it works fine anyway.
BTW, I wash the blades individually with lighter fluid, and wipe
them with a soft cloth, holding them the whole time with tweezers.
This results in perfectly clean blades, with no fingerprints or
cleaner-residue.
HTH,
Mark Overton
From: Bob Shell <bob@bobshell.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Cross point questions
> From: twl@alltel.net
> Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [camera-fix] Cross point questions
>
> I'm looking at the 1981 repair manual for my Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 and
> it looks like I'm dealing with JCIS cross-point 3 screws. In looking
> around for a source of proper tools, I'm finding JIS cross-point
> drivers in 0, 00, & 000. Is JIS a newer classification that
> corresponds to JCIS? Would, for example, JCIS 1, 2, & 3 correspond to
> JIS 0, 00, & 000? A url to a source of that I need would be
> appreciated. WIHA doesn't show any cross-point and Micro-Tools doesn't
> seem to have JCIS.
The cross point drivers I use came from Vivitar's parts department. I
don't even know now what numbers they are. You can get a cheap set from
Radio Shack which uses the current numbering system and cross reference
from them.
Bob
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001
From: Ellis Feldman <ellis.feldman@usa.com>
Subject: [camera-fix] tripod grease
I use the Gitzo tripods that have screw tightening collars.
I try to clean out the collars and sleeves with solvent every six
months and then lube with ordinary auto wheel bearing grease.
The tighter spots on the head I use shutter oil.
All of my work is outside and I pick up a lot of wind-blown grit in my
tripod collars,.
That white moly-grease sounds like a good idea.
Any suggestions.
ellis
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Semi Silvered Mirrors (was Braun Paxette Rangefinder)
Edmund Scientific sells a 50mm square by 1mm thick semi silvered
mirror, catalog number CR30433-59, for $16 in their 'scientifics'
catalog (try this link:
http://www.edmundscientific.com/Products/Search.cfm?
query=beam+splitters ). takes a little practice to cut it, but
there's enough for several rangefinders there.
rick :)=
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Frank Mueller" frank.mueller@d... wrote:
> --- In camera-fix@y..., "Mark Stuart" madfamily at b... wrote:
> > Mark,
> >
> > If only I'd read that a year ago. I wrecked my Agilux Agimatic RF
> > semi silvered mirror by lightly wiping it with a Q-Tip. Now I'm
> > looking for a replacement for the semi silvered glass.
> >
> > Stuey
>
> Guess I better stay away from those mirrors then!
>
> Many thanks for all your responses. This is my first rangefinder and
> I really wasn't even sure if there weren't supposed to be 4 pictures.
>
> Will let you know if I have any success repairing it.
>
> Cheers
>
> Frank
From: Colyn colyng@swbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
Date: 29 Sep 2001
"chris wakeen" cwakeen@charter.net> wrote:
>What should I use to un-cement cemented lens elements? What should I use to
>re-cement them? TIA Chris
>
The proper way to do this is to place the lens element in a pan and
slowly heat it till the balsum melts. Separate the elements and let
cool. Carefully remove all traces of the old balsum and clean with
alcohol.
You will then need some optical balsum with can be bought from Edmond
Scientific. Place the larger element back into the pan and crumble a
small amount of balsum (enough to completely cover the surface) and
slowly heat till the balsum is melted. Carefully place the other
element onto the larger element (it should slide into place by itself)
and align. You may have to move it around to force out any boubles.
Let it cool back to room temp..
After it cools, carefully clean the excess balsum off the exterior and
edges of the lens..
Colyn Goodson
colyng@swbell.net
Leicaman13@hotmail.com
Leica Camera/Lens Information
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Veranda/9472
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
From: artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: 29 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
> artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr) wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>>And you can count on having a severely decentered lens of rather poor
>>performance.
>>
>>
>If you do the job right and take your time the lens will perform as
>good as before..
>
>My 50mm f/2 screw Summicron which I had to re-balsum takes excellent
>pics..
>Colyn Goodson
Doing the job right means using proper centration techniques. That involves an
offset point light source with the lens elements mounted in a rotating mount.
The two elements will produce multiple images as they are rotated. The elements
must be adjusted so that the images become one image which indicates the
optical centers are now perfectly aligned. Centration (centering) is the most
costly single operation in lens construction and when poorly done results in
poor performance. Most lenses that perform in a mediocre to poor manner, do so
because the maker wanted to cut time and costs, and centered the lenses poorly.
Arthur Kramer
Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of their country
Visit my WW II B-26 website at: http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer
From: Colyn colyng@swbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
Date: 29 Sep 2001
artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr) wrote:
>> artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr) wrote:
>
>>Doing the job right means using proper centration techniques. That involves an
>offset point light source with the lens elements mounted in a rotating mount.
>The two elements will produce multiple images as they are rotated. The elements
>must be adjusted so that the images become one image which indicates the
>optical centers are now perfectly aligned. Centration (centering) is the most
>costly single operation in lens construction and when poorly done results in
>poor performance. Most lenses that perform in a mediocre to poor manner, do so
>because the maker wanted to cut time and costs, and centered the lenses poorly.
>
I guess then every time I have done this procedure, I just got lucky..
My lens perform as good as before..
But then I don't recall seeing techs use such equiptment when I toured
the Leitz factory several years ago.. The individual lens elements
were optically centered by grinding the outer edges before gluing.
They were then coated.. After centering and coating, the elements
were placed on leveled tables and the glue applyed (Leitz no longer
uses balsum) and the elements were simply placed together and allowed
to set..
Afterward, the elements are then set in metal rings and the remainder
of the lens is assembled after the lens has been checked for proper
calibration and focus..
Colyn Goodson
colyng@swbell.net
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Veranda/9472
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
From: artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: 29 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
>The individual lens elements
>were optically centered by grinding the outer edges before gluing.
>They were then coated.. After centering and coating, the elements
>were placed on leveled tables and the glue applyed (Leitz no longer
>uses balsum) and the elements were
You don't center lenses by grounding the outer edges.
>Afterward, the elements are then set in metal rings and the remainder
>of the lens is assembled after the lens has been checked for proper
>calibration and focus..
The centering marks made on the edge of the elements are first aligned, then
assembly takes place. When you cemented your lens how did you determine the
optimum radial position of each element to the other before allowing the
cement to set. Sounds as though you didn't. When you disassembled the cemented
elements you should have placed marks on the edges of the elements before
dissolving the cement. And when reasembling realigned those marks to assure
that the original radial relationship was maintained.
Arthur Kramer
Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of their country
Visit my WW II B-26 website at: http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer
From: Colyn colyng@swbell.net>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
Date: 30 Sep 2001
artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr) wrote:
>>You don't center lenses by grounding the outer edges.
>
This is taken directly from a pamplet given me while on a tour of the
Leitz factory..
"Every lens is checked at every step, both manually , where the radius
of the curvature is controlled, or by machines of Leitz design. This
machine finds the exact optical center of the lens and grinds the edge
so that it is perfectly aligned."
>
>The centering marks made on the edge of the elements are first aligned, then
>assembly takes place. When you cemented your lens how did you determine the
>optimum radial position of each element to the other before allowing the
>cement to set. Sounds as though you didn't. When you disassembled the cemented
>elements you should have placed marks on the edges of the elements before
>dissolving the cement. And when reasembling realigned those marks to assure
>that the original radial relationship was maintained.
>
German made lens don't need this step since they are made using
different techniques than Japanese lens but I would agree that it
would be a good idea..
I have rebuilt several Leica lens and they perform as good as before..
The only step I am unable to perform is lens polishing and recoating
but if the coating is in fine shape, I don't worry about it..
Maybe you need to take a tour of the Leitz factory sometime. You might
learn a thing or two.. However, I would tend to agree with you if you
are referring to Japanese lens made lens..
Colyn Goodson
colyng@swbell.net
From: artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: 30 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
>"Every lens is checked at every step, both manually , where the radius
>of the curvature is controlled, or by machines of Leitz design. This
>machine finds the exact optical center of the lens and grinds the edge
>so that it is perfectly aligned."
Yes. right. But you interpreted it wrong. The machine finds the center and
grinds the edges. But it first it finds the center and this very very brief and
incomplete desription omits the radial orientation of the lenses as being too
complex and idea for the layman in a brochure to understand. And the centering
procedure has the same goals in both Japanese and German methods. But you
are right. I would always like to "learn a thing or two" especially from a guy
who took a factory tour.No offense
Arthur Kramer
Qualitry control
Hugo Meyer Gorlitz Optical under US Alien Property Custodian. US dept of
Justice.
Arthur Kramer
Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of their country
Visit my WW II B-26 website at: http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Frank Mueller" frank.mueller@dotrs.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Semi Silvered Mirrors (was Braun Paxette Rangefinder)
Just wondering if the way to go would not be to re-silver the mirror
yourself. I have been out of the business for a few years but I am a
chemist by trade. Reading this thread, I remembered a little
experient that used to be part of first year chemistry. It is known
as Tollens test.
Basically what you do is add a silver nitrate solution to a reducing
agent such as glucose or fructose. The silver in silver nitrate will
be reduced to metallic silver. If the test tube you have used is
clean and fett free, a beautiful even silver mirror will form on its
walls.
If you had your little glass piece in the test tube at the time, I
can't see why it would not be re-silvered in the process. Of course
you would have to be extremely carefull with the mirror afterwards
because the silver would rub off just as easily as before.
The chemicals needed are be fairly basic and might be available from
a pharmacy. Except for the Silver nitrate they should be very
cheap.
Silver nitrate (AgNO3) to make a 5% silver nitrate solution, ie 0.5g
AgNO3 in 10ml water (this solution is light sensitive and should be
freshly prepaired). Careful, this solution is caustic!
Sucrose or fructose, to make a 10% solution, ie 1g sucrose or
fructose in 10ml water.
10% ammonia solution. Careful, this solution is caustic!
The easiest prep I could find is unfortunately in German
(http://dc2.uni-bielefeld.de/dc2/haus/v021.htm) but I have translated
it below.
Put 5ml of 5% silver nitrate solution in a test tube. Add a few
drops of 10% ammonia solution. A precipitate forms. Add 10% ammonia
solution dropwise until the precipitate disappears. Add 3ml of 10%
sucrose or fructose solution. Place test tube in a pot with hot
water (not boling, you want the test tube to stand still). After a
few minutes the silver mirror will form.
Is anybody going to give it a go ;-)
Frank
From: T P please.reply@newsgroup>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001
Anders Svensson anders.-.eivor.svensson@swipnet.se> wrote:
>
> Perhaps I don't see the problem ?
>
> From my point of understanding, finding the center and
> grinding the element from the center outwards would be a
> tremendous advantage for automated assembly the lens having
> the correct size and the center "in the center", so to say.
>
> The radial orientation would be very important for a
> cylinder lens element (like a astigmathic correction
> eyeglass element) but otherwise, radial orientation wouldn't
> be needed unless the elements are not consistent ?
Hi Anders,
That's *precisely* the point. Even the most *minute* variation in the
grinding and polishing of a lens element will make a *significant*
difference to the position of the optical centre.
This is not the precise science it appears to be. It is something of a
black art to optimise the performance of a multi-element lens design.
The centreing process Art refers to can take a high proportion of the
time it takes to make and assemble a lens, and that will be reflected in
the cost of the lens.
Those lenses in which the centreing process takes the highest proportion
of time are very probably those from Leica. Those which take (and cost)
the least probably appear with Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor brands.
Only if you are lucky enough to get a Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor
lens where the centreing has fortuitously worked out OK (only by pure
chance, of course!) you will have a reasonably good lens. But most of
them are dogs, and even if you get a good one the desperate build
quality will ensure it's not that way for long.
Contrast this with the 100mm macro lens that Cosina makes for a well
known camera brand. That lens has a good reputation. I expect that's
because more effort is made to get the centreing right than in the lens
sold under the Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor brands, which apparently
has similar optical elements.
--
Best regards,
TP
From: Anders Svensson anders.-.eivor.svensson@swipnet.se>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001
T P wrote:
> Hi Anders,
>
> That's *precisely* the point. Even the most *minute* variation in the
> grinding and polishing of a lens element will make a *significant*
> difference to the position of the optical centre
> This is not the precise science it appears to be. It is something of a
> black art to optimise the performance of a multi-element lens design.
> The centreing process Art refers to can take a high proportion of the
> time it takes to make and assemble a lens, and that will be reflected in
> the cost of the lens.
>
> Those lenses in which the centreing process takes the highest proportion
> of time are very probably those from Leica. Those which take (and cost)
> the least probably appear with Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor brands.
> Only if you are lucky enough to get a Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor
> lens where the centreing has fortuitously worked out OK (only by pure
> chance, of course!) you will have a reasonably good lens. But most of
> them are dogs, and even if you get a good one the desperate build
> quality will ensure it's not that way for long.
>
> Contrast this with the 100mm macro lens that Cosina makes for a well
> known camera brand. That lens has a good reputation. I expect that's
> because more effort is made to get the centreing right than in the lens
> sold under the Cosina/Vivitar/Phoenix/Soligor brands, which apparently
> has similar optical elements.
>
> --
> Best regards,
> TP
Obviously, the lens grinding and polishing consistency plays
a big part here. But so does the number of lenses, and how
radically they are ground (or, how well they are cast, in
case of low end aspherics). Getting them right (and
rejecting those who doesn't get right) is probably one key
to make automatic assembly work.
A Cosina 19-35 zoom has many more lens elements, and it is
far more radical in it's design than their 100 mm fixed
length macro. One important lens design parameter for easy
assembly would then be "uncritical" designs, where
performance isn't dropping radically if tolerances add up
instead of even out.
The "well known brand" is Pentax, but even Cosina's "own"
macro lens get fairly good reviews. I don't know, either, if
Pentax specifies their own glass and coating, wich could be
a important differentiator. But I doubt if the manufacturing
process is very different. I rather think they sift the best
one's out for the "OEM" batches.
--
Anders Svensson
mail: anders.-.eivor.svensson@swipnet.se
From: artkramr@aol.com (ArtKramr)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: 01 Oct 2001
Subject: Re: Un-cementing lens elements
>The radial orientation would be very important for a
>cylinder lens element (like a astigmathic correction
>eyeglass element) but otherwise, radial orientation wouldn't
>be needed unless the elements are not consistent ?
There is no such thing as zero error. When you find the center then grind the
edges, there is error as to the center, and the edges are not perfect circles
with zero error. If you had an element that you had centered and placed it on
an optical bench and then rotated it, that center would "walk" as the lens was
rotated. So the elements are aligned with a radial orientation that produced
the best centered result possible. If a lens is disassembled as in
recementing, it will be somewhat decentered if the oriiginal radial
orientation is lost. But we must remember that absolutely perfect centering is
rarely acheived. That is one reason why we can test several lenses of identical
make and find there are slight variations one to the other. And we must also
rememeber that a lens is a very imperfect device even under the best of
circumstances. For example, when we put a square wave through an audio
amplifier, what comes out, even in cheap amplifiers is easily recognised as a
square wave. Well, an MTF test is essentially placing a square wave (B&W;
target) through a lens. And what comes out is nothing even recognizable as a
square wave. We have a long way to go and optics is a science still in it's
infancy.
Arthur Kramer
Now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of their country
Visit my WW II B-26 website at: http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 07:00:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Semi Silvered Mirrors (was Braun Paxette Rangefinder)
> From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at bigpond.com
> Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Semi Silvered Mirrors (was Braun Paxette
> Rangefinder)
>
> On the silvering issue, I know for sure that car headlights are
> vacuum metallised with aluminium - I've had it done. I've also read
> on other forums that the flip up mirror on many SLR's is an aluminium
> based coating, but that's all the info. I can remember...
They used to use silver, and some older cameras do have silver on their
mirrors. This is prone to tarnish, just like silverware. I think it was
the tarnishing, which you often see on old TLR mirrors, that got them to
switch to aluminum. Aluminum is used in all SLR mirrors today. It's used
on the front surface mirrors used in mirror lenses. I'm pretty sure all
rangefinder mirrors made in recent years use aluminum as well.
Many of these mirrors are very complex gadgets with multiple layers of
vacuum deposited metal, each layer slightly different in composition, and
with a vacuum deposited protective coating, similar to lens multicoating,
on the surface. Leica, for example, puts 16 different layers on their
SLR mirrors.
Bob
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" qnu@worldonline.nl>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: cleaning hassy leather
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001
db1 wrote:
> how would i go about doing this?
Soap and water.
Hasselblad "leather" isn't leather at all. It is vinyl.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 08:24:06 +0800
Subject: [camera-fix] An alternative tool source
http://www.tztoolshop.com/
From: ChrisQ lightwork@aerosys.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Why are Un Leicas So Inexpensive ?
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001
John Bateson wrote:
>
> Dear ChrisQ: I wonder if anyone has stopped to consider that if you buy a
> Leica M, or any mechanically operated focal plane shutter camera you are in
> essence buying a clock? Not one that will tell you when it's time for
> lunch, but a Leica M, or Nikon F, or any camera made before the electronic
> era is really a mechanical timing device that measures descreet periods of
> time from one second to fractions of a second. That's why Leicas and other
> cameras needed a solid die cast non ferrous metal body in order to hold all
> the gears, pinions, levers and springs in place for precision operation.
> Electronic cameras have this done by solid state circuitry, so there is not
> the need for the rigid body. Thus a polycarbonate Canon or whatever can
> have just as precise a shutter as a much heavier mechanical camera. Just
> thought I would throw this out for people to chew on.
> Kind regards,
> John Bateson
> "ChrisQ" lightwork@aerosys.co.uk> wrote
I think it's much more than that, since if you take (for example) a
Nikkormat to bits, you find that the shutter and associated timer
comes away as a completely separate subassembly, with brass and steel
gears running in brass (?) side plates and plain bearings. Same
applies to the self timer mechanism. The film advance shaft appears to
run in ball bearing races (never had to remove that) which are set in
the die cast body, but the only shafts and bearings you find running
directly in the alloy frame are those associated with the mirror box
mechanism, where there is no continuous rotation. Strangely enough,
the most common reason for Nikkormat mechanism jam. Apart from that,
the alloy body provides ruggedness and also dimensional stability in
terms of alignment of the lens mount to film plane. Something far more
difficult to guarantee with a plastic body, where the plastic deforms
as it cools down from the mould. This can be compensated for in the
design of the mould and probably is, but will also depend on injection
moulding pressure, temperature and maybe a lot more besides. I would
argue then that it's much more difficult to make an accurate plastic
body than one in metal and that the dimesional stability and
tolerances will be inferior. It is however, much cheaper.
If you look at the progress of Japan Inc cameras over the past 30
years or so, one can see a progressive deterioration in terms of
engineering quality, increased use of cheap plastics that break easily
etc, though the feature list (who needs most of it anyway ?) seems to
grow and grow. Maybe the optical performance has improved as well, but
that appears to be debateable. If you consider how Japan Inc targets a
market, makes perfect business sense as well. They start with a long
term view, 20 or 30 years maybe and start by building product as good
as or better than the best of the competition, even if this means
minimal profit. Once they have driven all the serious competition out
of business or to the margins, they then start the cost reduction
exercise, payback time, maximise profit etc. The result of this is
that mainstream photographic kit is now just another branch of
consumer electronics and we all know how bad that can get. Fashion,
planned obsolescence, drop it hard once and the cost of repair makes
it cheaper to buy a new one, etc, etc...
Years behind the times here though. For example, not really impressed
with anything Nikon post F3, even though their digital series are
starting to look interesting...
Chris
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: toolmaker48@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Oiling shutter curtain pivots
I'll reply to two messages. Using syringes is OK. Depending on
circumstances or where you live, possession may be illegal. You can
buy larger gage tips and glue them on to an eyedropper. McMaster Carr
Co. sells them by the bag I believe. Contenti Co. (jeweler's
supplies) also sells them in their resin casting section.
In looking for supplies online, SHOP AROUND. Prices can vary as
much as 100% I'd suggest Frie & Borel to start
http://www.ofrei.com/index.html
As for books, Donald de Carle has written several. "Practical
Watch Repairing" would probably be the best to start with. The tools
and workbench he suggests fit in nicely with camera repair. In any
case, if I get one good idea out of any book, I consider the book to
be a good investment.
I have no clue as to the differences between clear and yellow
watch oil. Put a drop of each on a plate of glass and see how they
spread out. That at least gives you an indication of thick versus
thin. WD-40 is good if you can gently get it out of the can. With a
light touch it is possible to get it to drop out rather than spray.
Drop it into a dish then transfer it to the camera or whatever.
Hope this information helps.
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> I have some watch oil, one bottle is yellow liquid and one clear - both
> from same company. There is no indication on the difference between them.
> How can I tell?
>
> I do have an oiler ... but I tried dabbing it and the amounts are so
> miniscule I can't
> imagine them making any diff!
>
> Any suggestion of good books for watch and clock repair?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: toolmaker48@y...>
> To: camera-fix@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Oiling shutter curtain pivots
>
>
> > Try 'pivot oil' from a watch and clock supplier. They are also
> > a good source of tools, including oilers specifically design to
> > dispense small drops of oil. There are a couple of good books
> > currently in print dealing with watch and clock repair which provide
> > a lot of basic information dealing with removing stuck screws, making
> > springs, etc. which can be applied to camera repair in general.
> >
> > --- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> > > hi all
> > >
> > > I've been trying to oil the shutter curtain pivots of my Pentax H3v.
> > >
> > > How much is the correct amount of oil to use? I followed Tomosey's
> > > suggestion of dabbing some 3-in-1 oil with a 1.4mm jeweller's
> > screwdriver.
> > >
> > > This proved to be too much and the 2nd curtain won't close and
> > mirror won't
> > > come down ( at all speeds , so not escapment). I then went to some
> > lighter
> > > fluid to
> > > dilute it ... it worked fine, till the lighter fluid dried out,
> > same problem
> > > came
> > > back (not enough lube). So this process was alternated, and I've
> > not come
> > > to a nice balance yet.
> > >
> > > It always works well for a bit, till the lighter fluid dries out.
> > >
> > > I am thinking of diluting some 3-in-1 in some lighter fluid and
> > apply one
> > > small drop.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at bigpond.com
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Oiling shutter curtain pivots
Hi Guys,
I haven't used this stuff, but another forum suggested teflon
lubricant sold by Radio Shack in the US (Tandy in Australia). I
bought some ($6.95 AU) but haven't tried it yet. Apparently it is
used for its longevity - even when it dries out, it works because of
the PTFE residue left.
I have used Singer sewing machine oil successfully.
As an aside, I went to a local watchmaker to get good watch oil. 1ml
was priced at.....$86 AU !!!!!! So that's $86,000 a litre. So I
ordered 5 litres for my car....should run like a watch :-)
Cheers
Stuey
...
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Play in lens focus ring
There is an outer ring, the one you turn, and an inner ring which actually
is part of the helical. If the screws holding the two together get loose,
then you get play or slop. I don't now remember just how this lens is
put together. If it has a rubberized focusing grip there may be some set
screws under the rubber ring that you can tighten. Alternately you may need
to remove the name ring and access the screws from the front after removing
the front lens ring.
Maybe someone here knows exactly how this Kiron is built. I used to have
one (under the Vivitar name), but don't remember how it was built.
Bob
> From: timthefox@yahoo.com
> Reply-To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [camera-fix] Play in lens focus ring
>
> I've recently bought a second hand Kiron 28mm f2 lens for my Olympus
> camera. The optics are fine but there is a small, and irritating,
> degree of play in the focus ring. Anybody know if anythink can be
> done to remedy this? Has anybody else had a the same problem?
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: henrytaber@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Play in lens focus ring
At the bottom of this article is a few examples of step by step
disassembly of a few lenses. The Kiron 28mm f.2.0 is one of them.
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/slrlenses.html
Generally there are three kinds of movements: radial, axial and
wobble. The radial is usually setscrews under the grip or at the
ends of cylinders. Axial, the screws holding the front of the lens
to the main body are loose. General wobbly-ness is usually
dehydrated grease. Some grease turns into glue as it dries over the
years. So a helix grease problem is either the focus being real
loose or real tight.
--- In camera-fix@y..., timthefox@y... wrote:
> I've recently bought a second hand Kiron 28mm f2 lens for my
Olympus
> camera. The optics are fine but there is a small, and irritating,
> degree of play in the focus ring. Anybody know if anythink can be
> done to remedy this? Has anybody else had a the same problem?
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Why do shutter slow speeds go south first?
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001
Marco Milazzo mmilazz1@elp.rr.com> wrote:
>Just curious:
>
>It seems that the slower speeds on old shutters are the first to go
>even while fastrer sppeds work okay.
>
>Why is this, and is there a way to fix it short of sending it to a
>technician?
>
>TIA
>
>Marco
The slow speeds in most shutters are controlled by a clockwork
mechanism. As it gets dirty or the lubrication ages and oxidizes and
gets gummy the gears are not free to turn to the speeds get slower or
the thing stops completely.
When a shutter is tripped the blades are driven open as quickly as
possible. They are not allowed to close again until the clock-work
mechanism runs for a time and releases them. They are then driven
closed again as quickly as possible.
The blade mechanism can also get dirty so that the opening and
closing times are longer than they should be. This makes the fastest
speeds slow. A weak drive spring also affects the fast speeds more
than the slow ones.
Generally, a thorough cleaning will fix the slow speed regulator and
get any residue off the blade mechanism. In most shutters the clock
work is lubricated very lightly with very fine, non-gumming oil. Some
of them are intended to work without any lubrication (Ilex for
instance). The blade mechanism is never lubricated.
A great many shutters will come back to their original speed with no
more than a thorough cleaning and perhaps some lubrication. Springs
become fatigued with use so some shutters have rather slow top speeds
from spring weakness. However, many shutters were never capable of the
top speeds marked.
Top speeds are _effective_ speeds not total open time. The speeds
are calculated to account for the opening and closing time of the
blades. This can be substantial for a large shutter. The speeds are
indicated for the full aperture of the shutter and when smaller stops
are used the effective speed can be significantly longer.
For common Compur shutters the total open time at the highest speed
is about 1.3 times the marked speed. i.e. for a a shutter marked
1/500th the actual total open time will be around 1/385th or even a
little longer. If you have a shutter tester which measures total open
time (like the little Calumet tester) this needs to be taken into
account when evaluating the top speeds of blade type shutters.
Some shutters have some means of adjusting the slow speeds. Most
Compur shutters are arranged so that the gear mechanism can be moved
back and forth a little to adjust its contact with the lever which
operates it. Generally after cleaning its set so that 1/10th second is
correct. The other speeds should then fall pretty close to correct.
Kodak shutters require adjusting the tension of the return spring on
the regulator mechanism, tricky to do without loosing the spring.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Why do shutter slow speeds go south first?
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001
Marco Milazzo mmilazz1@elp.rr.com> wrote:
>Thanks to both of you for the usual authoritative answers. This group
>is great. Let me tell you what inspired this question:
>
>I had an old Kodak Ektar 127mm in a supermatic shutter. I sent it to
>my local El Paso camera shop for a CLA. They charged me $70 but other
>than clean it up a little, I can't tell what they did, and the slow
>speeds are still way slow.
>
>I might be willing to try gleaning and lubing it myself if I had some
>kind of guidance -- instructions or something. Where can I get some
>of this degreaser of which you speak? A what is the right lind of
>lube?
>
>Marco
There are reprint military repair manuals for the Speed Graphic
which contain a section on the Supermatic shutter.
They are very easy to work on. You can see most of the mechanism
when you take the lens cells out.
I suspect it may neet just a little lubrication or else they didn't
clean it properly and there is still something on the retarder gears.
The lubricant should be the lightest oil you can find. Actually,
I've had good luck using an electronic contact cleaner called Deoxitt
D5. Just the tinyest amount on the tip of a brush on the gear bearings
and on the pallet.
Nothing else needs to be lubricated except perhaps a very little
light grease (like Lubriplate) around the edge of the speed dial.
There is a way of adjusting the slow speeds but it should not be
done unless you are certain the gear mechanism is really cleaned and
properly lubed. The adjustment procedure requires partial disassembly
of the retarder. Its easy to get apart and hard to put back together.
Eseentially it consists of winding or unwinding a little tension from
the counter spring. Actually, I've found Supermatics often run fast.
$70 should get you a thorough and proper job on virtually any
shutter so I think you should complain. If they tell you the thing is
worn out they don't know what they are talking about. Even when the
main drive spring is weak the slowest speeds are pretty close. Its the
top speeds which will be noticably slow.
The supermatic, in common with many other shutters, has two springs.
A main drive spring and a booster spring which is tensioned for the
top speed only. If you open the shutter be careful of the booster
spring and its actuating cam. They are right under the screw that
holds the face plate on and can fall out.
I don't know how you are measuring the speeds. Calumet sells a good
little shutter speed tester. The last I looked it was around $80. I
think this thing is a necessity for anyone working with older or even
just large shutters. It will also measure the duration of strobes,
which is sometimes useful to know.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: Frank Calidonna cemeteryman@clarityconnect.com>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Why do shutter slow speeds go south first?
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001
If the shutter has already been cleaned, and it was done properly, your
times still might be off. One of the main causes of slow mechanical
shutters is lack of use. Generally speeds from 1/30 to 1/125 work fine
because they are the ones used the most. Your fast speeds can be too slow
too, but you don't see it. When you cock the shutter various springs and
gears are set at certain tensions - different for different speeds. They
need to be exercised.
While you are sitting watching TV (alone- or see definition for
long-suffering wife) set the shutter at 1 second and fire it repeatedly a
couple of hundred times. Repeat with all of the other speeds. If a lens
has been inactive for a long time this is a good thing to do with any lens
every so often. This should bring the speed back to snuff, but like any
mechanical shutter it might be off a bit. What you want is consistenty. Do
test it with your meter/film/developer combo. As long as it is consistent
the lens will be fine.
Frank Rome,NY
Marco Milazzo wrote:
> Thanks to both of you for the usual authoritative answers. This group
> is great. Let me tell you what inspired this question:
>
> I had an old Kodak Ektar 127mm in a supermatic shutter. I sent it to
> my local El Paso camera shop for a CLA. They charged me $70 but other
> than clean it up a little, I can't tell what they did, and the slow
> speeds are still way slow.
>
> I might be willing to try gleaning and lubing it myself if I had some
> kind of guidance -- instructions or something. Where can I get some
> of this degreaser of which you speak? A what is the right lind of
> lube?
>
> Marco
From: Glenn Stewart -Arizona- gstewart@inficad.com>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Getting mirror damping foam replaced on RB67
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001
[This followup was posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format and a copy
was sent to the cited author.]
erisynne@pair.com says...
> Anyone know how I should go about getting this done? Or how much it'll run
> me?
> I doubt I'll be able to find someone locally to do it.
> At least I'm smart enough to not try it myself! :)
> Thanks guys,
> Amy
Amy,
This is a job you can do yourself. The foam strips are cheap and you can
order them from Mamiya. Should be in the $10 neighborhood (I'm assuming
you live in the US).
There are step-by-step directions for the repair on my site (URL below),
under the Tips & Techniques page. It's pretty easy, just take your time
and be careful not to scatter the old foam particles and acetone around
parts of the camera where they don't belong.
I've done two Pentax Spotmatic II's, several Nikon F-2's, my RB and the
backs of a couple of Mamiya C-330's. I'd guess I've saved several hundred
dollars in shop charges by doing my own.
Best regards,
Stew
--
Photo web pages at: http://www.inficad.com/~gstewart/
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: [Rollei] "Balsam" issues with some Zeiss lenses?
you wrote:
>Joe B. wrote:
>
>"A repairman I spoke to tonight said he's seeing a lot of Zeiss lenses from
>the
>60's with what people call balsam problems- he says it is actually optical
>cement and not balsam that is giving this problem with these lenses."
>
>I've heard this too, from a specialist Rollei repairer in London. The lens
>we were discussing was the 135mm f4 Sonnar in the Tele-Rollei, and he warned
>me to check *very* carefully for this effect. His optical specialist has had
>the cemented elements of two Tele taking lenses sitting in a bath of
>whatever-it-is-they-use-to-take-them-apart for over *twelve months* and they
>won't separate (so they can't recement them).
>
>www.ffordes.co.uk has three Tele Rolleis for sale on its site, and when I
>enquired about the lens condition by mail a few weeks ago I was told that
>two of them had separation problems in the taking lens.
>
>--
>David Morton
>dmorton@journalist.co.uk
FWIW, A company called Summers Optical makes optical cements and
solvents. Their web address is:
http://www.emsdiasum.com/Summers/optical/cements/default.html
Even if you are not interested in taking on recementing yourself the primer here makes interesting reading.
Synthetic cements have been used for nearly all lenses from the late
1940's. A few manufacturers began using them even earlier especially for
aerial lenses for use at high altitude. These lenses are subjected to
temperatures which will almost instantly crystalize Canada Balsam, making
the layer cloudy and the lens useless.
Many kinds of cements have been used. The early ones were mostly
thermosetting. While synthetic cements should have a much longer lifetime
than Canada Balsam there are subject to some problems in assembly and
curing. I've seen some lenses, including Zeiss lenses for the Contarex,
which had what looked like large bubbles in them. This is the cement
separating. I have also seen a few Kodak lenses where the cement layer has
become turbid, looking like wax paper.
Many lenses can be recemented. If the elements are not completely
separated the technique is to bathe the lens in a hot solvent solution. The
solvent Summers sells operates at around 340F. The problem is that
sometimes the thermal shock can cause the elements to fracture. The
Summer's solvent is started cold to avoid this problem. Once separated the
lenses can be cleaned with Acetone and pure Ethyl alcohol and recemented.
Summers sells both binary type and UV setting cements. I've used the
conventional binary type. This requires curing at 130F for an hour. There
is also a room temperature curing cement but I prefer to have the longer
working life of the mixed cement. The temperature is not critical and the
recementing procedure is not too hard to do.
Most cemented elements have edges which are carefully centered. When
these are clamped together the entire assembly will be centered correctly.
The difficulty comes with lenses with different diameter elements, such as
the Schneider Angulon. I've not recemented a finder prism but would guess
that its practical to do.
Steve Grimes also has a little on lens re-cementing on his web site
http://www.skgrimes.com
He uses prisms to clamp the lens edges. I've found that even large
machine nuts seem to be suitabley square. A sheet of thick glass is used as
the reference surface. I've used an ordinary gas oven for curing although a
temperature controlled electric oven would be ideal.
I have also recemented using Canada Balsam, but it is actually more
difficult and fussy to use and the results are not as good.
Lenses cemented with Canada Balsam can be gotten appart by gentle
heating. The text books say to use a frying pan but I've also had good luck
placing the elements in water and heating it until the fall apart.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Separation Issues and Zeiss Lenses
you wrote:
> bob@bobshell.com (Bob Shell) wrote:
>
>> > The problem only afflicts selected lenses, and I don't recall that the
>> > 5.6/120 S-Planar was one such. The most heavily affected are the 35mm,
>> > 85mm, and 115mm Pro-Tessars for the Zeiss Ikon Contaflex III through S
line
>> > and the Rolleiflex TLR prism -- and, in these cases, the poor cement used
>> > seems to have only been in use for a very brief window of time, possibly
>> > from 1960 to 1963. I have never heard of a Rollei-made Zeiss lens
>> > suffering from the problem.
>>
>>
>> I had a 120 S-Planar for SL66 bought around 1973 as I recall. It had
>> belonged to a doctor before me. It had serious separation when I got it
>> and I sent it out for recementing. I later got rid of it because it was
>> simply too sharp for glamour photography.
>>
>> The lens I saw most often in need of recementing was the 150mm Sonnar for
>> Hasselblad, 60s vintage. Like Marc I never saw a Rollei-built lens with
>> separation.
>>
>> Bob
>
>I'm now viewing my 150mm Zeiss Sonnar for SL66 with some concern. I wonder if
>there is any way of knowing whether this lens is likely to separate at some
>future time or not. And I wonder if I can assume it is effectively the samelens
>as the Hasselblad lens- same optics, same manufacturer. It looks fine at the
>moment, but if I wait until I see some evidence of separation, I will have left
>it too long. I have half a mind to sell it forthwith. Have you (or anyone else)
>ever heard of the SL66 150 Zeiss Sonnar developing this problem?
>
>Joe B.
My guess is that if the lens shows no sign of separation its not going to
separate. Unlike Canada Balsam, which slowly crystalizes at the edges,
properly cured synthetic cements should have virtually indefinite lifetime.
I suspect the bad Zeiss lenses are due to either defective cement or some
problem in curing it. The problem may not have been recognized at the time.
Likely it affects lenses made only over a fairly short time.
The separated Zeiss lenses I've seen (from a Contarex) looked like they
had large bubbles in them. However, I've also seen other manifestations of
bad synthetic cements on other lenses. Some Kodak lenses get an overall
haze in the cement which under magnification looks slightly wrinkled, like
reticulated film. The main effect of this is to diffuse the image a little,
unless its very bad.
Separating cement can also give a sort of oil-slick effect, probably from
Newton's rings from the variation of index in the bad cement.
The difficulty of recementing depends on the construction of the lens and
the difficulty of getting the components apart. Old lenses, cemented with
Canada Balsam are not difficult at all to get apart, nor are lenses with
synthetic cement which has sufficiently separated. However, where synthetic
cement is just starting to have trouble the lens must be treated in hot
solvent, with the consequent risk of thermal shock.
There are a couple of people in the US who offer recementing services.
One is Steve Grimes the other is John van Stelten. I know Steve a little,
he is a carful workman. I've not had direct experience with van Stelten but
he has a good reputation.
Recementing is expensive because there is a lot of hand work. Whether its
justifiable or not obviously depends on the lens.
Its not too difficult to do your own recementing but I would suggest
giving any really valuable lens to someone who does it all the time.
In a previous post I gave the URL of Summers Optical, who supplies both
optical cements and accessory items. They have a pretty good on-line primer
on cementing. I wish it were available as a PDF (maybe it is now, I haven't
looked lately).
Unfortunately, the cements and the solvents must be shipped as hazardous
materials. The haz mat charge nearly doubles the price. I strongly suggest
ordering cement and solvent at the same time since I think the haz mat
charge is per shipment rather than by item.
Recementing simple lenses, like Tessars, is easy. The main problem with
small Tessar type lenses is that the rear (cemented) element is likely to
be mounted in a "burnished" or "spun-in" mount which requires some
machining to get apart. The mechanical work is much more difficult than the
recementing.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: henrytaber@home.com
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Spanner
There are lots of things that can replace lens spanners. One of the
best is machinist dividers. A cheap one can be bought at a wholesale
tool place for around $3. Draftsman dividers are usable too, though
not as sturdy. In fact in some applications the drafters dividers
are even better. In tight places, like self timer screws, they are
perfect. Would advise trimming and deburring the tips to avoid
scratches. The plus side of procuring a used drafters set is the
really fine oiler it includes (the ruling pen). It almost made 5
years of drafting, six years of engineering school and another 20+
years of experience worth it. :-)
The tips of needle nose pliers can be heated, bent and ground to fit.
Large set of snapring pliers will work too.
Tips of scissors ground to shape... the list goes on and on. But you
get the point by now I'm sure.
Oh, and there are cheap black spanners with fixed tips on the market
too. Just call a few local shops, one is bound to have a set.
I've done all these and more probably that I can't remember right
now. Including a fine set with replacable tips. But you know my
favorite method? Go to Wal-mart (or any cheap store) and buy a thick
(about .080"), wide bladed putty knife. Cut and grind this to fit.
Comes out looking professional.
Henry
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: rolohar@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Spanner
If you can find a copy of Thomas Tomosy's "Camera Maintenance & Repair" Vol
I, you will find photos and explanations of how to make a variety of camera
repair tools.
Tomosy claims that he finds some of his homemade tools much better and easier
to use than the expensive commercial tools he has.
There are some very good photos of how to reform long needle-nose pliers into
a variety of spanner-like tools. Tomosy calles these "plier wrenches".
I often use a pair of machinists dividers as a spanner wrench, ofter
altering the tips to flat bladed screwdriver configuration.
Roland F. Harriston
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, Rolohar@aol.com
From: rolohar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Spanner
Toolmaker:
The dividers that I modified to work like a spanner wrench were purchased
from a mail order company called Harbor Freight Tools. They often advertise
in Popular Mechanics & Popular Science. I think cheap dividers like this are
available at any hardware store.
The dividers are 8 inches long overall. They are spring loaded at the apex of
the two legs by a circular, flat spring. There is a spring loaded thumb wheel
screw thread adjustment mechanism between the two legs.
The ends of the divider have been filed flat to fit most slots on lens
retainer rings. Like most spanner wrenches, there is a knack to using it so
as not to allow it to slip and damage the part you are working with. The
trick is to properly (and safely) brace the camera in some sort of holding
device. I use a wooden frame that is felt padded. Hold the dividers as close
as possible to the bottom of its legs and as close to the retaining ring as
possible. Use with BOTH hands......one hand on each leg of the dividers.
I only use a spanner wrench (of any kind) only to "break" the retainer ring
loose. A little Ronsonol lighter fluid often helps free up a ring that been
on for a long time. Usually about one turn or less is enough. I then use a
bamboo stick placed in one of the retainer ring slots to unscrew the ring the
rest of the distance. The bamboo stick will do less damage if it slips.
Bamboo "Skewer" sticks available at any supermarket are ideal and they can be
whittled into a flat blade to fit any retainer ring slot. Bamboo is a lot
stronger than ordinary wooden sticks.
I sometimes use a Proto "Truarc" circlip insertion tool to remove retainer
rings. The tips have been modified.
Also, I constructed a more conventional spanner wrench from some square and
round metal stock I happened to have.
You can view images of all three of these homemade tools at the URL below.
http://members/rolohar/spanners.jpg
I hope this information will be of benefit to some list members.
Roland
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: rolohar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Spanner
For those who had problems with the link I gave in my "Spanner" description,
try this one. The address differs slightly for AOL users and non-AOL users.
Sorry for the inconveience.
http://members.aol.com/rolohar/spanners.jpg
To: idcc@KJSL.COM, camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Preventing rack-wear on Retina IIc/IIIc -- here's how
The fixers among us should like this...
The Retina IIc/IIIc/IIIC cameras all have the well known problem of the
cocking rack in the top wearing out. All these models use the same rack
(same Kodak part-number), and so all have this problem. I just figured out
a way to prevent this, and have successfully modified my camera.
A couple months ago, I overhauled the shutter of an IDCC member's IIc.
I liked the camera so much that I then bought one myself. Which got me
thinking hard about that cocking rack problem.
Where the rack is located:
Remove the top cover. If you have a IIIc/IIIC, pull off the meter.
You can see the rack at the top of the wind mechanism on the right end
("right" is from the photographer's point of view). Remove the two screws
securing the right strap lug. The piece of metal you can now remove
covers part of the rack, and keeps it down when cocking.
The problem:
When cocking, the rack bends! This causes the meshing gear teeth to
separate a little, putting far more stress and wear on the tips of the
rack's teeth. They wear, and eventually the pinion's teeth jump over
the worn rack's teeth, and then the shutter won't cock.
Why does the rack bend? The pinion's teeth naturally try to push the rack
away from itself, so the rack should have been braced directly behind the
pinion. This would have prevented the rack from bending away from the
pinion, which would have kept the teeth in full mesh. Some object should
have been on the other side of the rack to prevent the pinion from pushing
the rack away from itself (bending it). But if you look at your camera,
you'll see a screw-in stud behind the rack as you'd expect, but -- and
here's the problem -- it's a few millimeters to the left of the pinion.
So the pinion is pushing against the rack a small distance away from its
back support, and the rack isn't thick enough, so it bends. Poor design.
A fix:
Notice that one of those two screws you removed to pull the strap lug
is located directly opposite the pinion. This is where we want the rack
to be supported. Hmmm. My idea was to put a small piece of metal around
that screw (and secured by it) that projects forward enough to brace the
rack. Here's what I did:
1. Find a small washer about 6-7 mm diameter, and 1/2 to 1 mm thick.
2. Cut a shallow void out the camera's body-casting around the screw hole
down to the thickness of the washer. This involves some masking to keep
the chips out of the camera. I used a Dremel to grind out a void. A mill
would have been better (neater and more accurate cut).
3. Place the washer into the void just cut out, and attach the strap lug
assembly above it, and screw down. If done right, the washer will be
sandwitched between the strap lug metal and the casting, and sticking
frontward enough to brace the rack as it moves rightward.
4. Apply grease to the sliding surfaces, and to the teeth.
With that washer in there, the rack is supported directly behind the
pinion, so it can't bend away from the pinion, so the teeth stay in
full mesh, resulting in minimal wear on them.
Hope this helps somebody,
Mark
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001
From: Gene Johnson genej2@home.com>
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning camera exterior?
Michael,
Please don't snicker too hard at this one till you try it. My favorite
is Vaseline. Put a little on an old toothbrush and scrub the entire
exterior of the camera. Be careful around the optics, you don't want to
have to clean it off of glass. Buff it all off thoroughly with an old
towel. Cleans old skin oils off, conditions leather and leaves
everything looking nice and shiny. Costs nothing. Vaseline is also a
very nice medium weight grease that won't gum up. I use it on helical
focusers and stuff. The surprising part is how well it works on old
leather. Some of the old Rolleis and ZI cameras I've worked on have
leather that is absolutely mummified, and this helps a LOT. You can
follow up with some black shoe polish if you really need to but usually
the color comes back pretty well.
Gene Johnson
Michael Nosal wrote:
>
> What fluids/solvents are recommended for cleaning grime, dirt, fingerprints
> off the exterior of a camera?
>
> Anything special for the leather surfaces to keep them from drying out/cracking?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
From: "Ferdi Stutterheim" ferdi@stutterheim.nl>
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Cleaning camera exterior?
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001
Hello All,
For the SLX and 6000 Series I recommend Glycerine (Glycerol 70%). Use a
cloth and wipe any excess off with a towel. This is the official factory
procedure! When I visited the factory in May of this year I saw a lady
tarting up a number of 6000 Series cameras that had been sent in for an
overhaul. You won?t be surprised that I asked which stuff she used. She was
quite happy I was interested in her work and explained the very simple
procedure.
Ahh, well, with towel I mean a real cloth one, not the paper stuff. Somehow
I have the feeling that our wives will not be too happy about this.
Ferdi Stutterheim,
Drachten, The Netherlands.
http://www.stutterheim.org
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning camera exterior?
you wrote:
>Realeye?
>
>Butane is a liquefied (compressed) gas.
>
>"Lighter Fluid" is usually naptha, and is far
>easier to use than butane.
>
>It appears that you talked with a typical
>salesman.:-)
>
>Jerry
>
>Rea1eye@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I once was told by a camera salesman ( at a Chicago Camera Show) that
>> pure lighter fluid ( butane ) can clean alot of oils and grime off the
>> exterior. He said it does not leave much "residue" because of its
>> volatility. I am not sure of this method though.
>
I suspect that Naptha would make a mess of the leather because it would
dissolve the coating.
Saddle soap or prepared leather cleaning creams are effective. Once the
leather is cleaned it can be polished with good quallity shoe polish. Badly
used leather responds to Skuff Kote or similar kids shoe polish, which is
actually a sort of paint.
Shiny leather, like camera cases, often is coated with lacquer or enamel.
Neat's foot oil will make old leather more flexible, but won't stop the
progression of leather rot.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning camera exterior?
you wrote:
>Richard writes:
>
>> Neat's foot oil will make old leather more flexible, but won't stop the
>>progression of leather rot.
>
>
>Is there anything that will stop the progression of leather rot?
>
>If there is, I'd surely like to know about it.
>
>Tom Frank
My information came from a bulletin from the U.S.Forrest Service which is
on the Conservation On Line site at: http://palimpsest.stanford.edu
It states that once leather starts to rot nothing will stop it. Dressings
tend to increase the rot although they may make the leather more flexible.
I think this was aimed mostly at leather book bindings but similar
leather is used on cameras and bellows.
There may be other sources with less discouraging data but I've not found
them.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: Richard Urmonas rurmonas@senet.com.au>
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Cleaning camera exterior?
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001
> What fluids/solvents are recommended for cleaning grime, dirt, fingerprints
> off the exterior of a camera?
>
> Anything special for the leather surfaces to keep them from drying out/cracking?
My cleaning method is as follows:
1) Vacuum / Blow any loose dirt off. I use a small set of attachments
available from a vacuum cleaner store which can be attached to a standard
vacuum cleaner. A small soft artists brush is also good getting into tight
spots.
2) Depending on how dirty the camera is, I either use saddle soap for light
cleaning, or liquid hand soap if it is really dirty. With the hand soap I put
it on sparingly and rub it in using my fingers. Be careful around dirty areas
as the dirt can be quite abbrasive.
3) Wash the soap off using a damp sponge. Keep rinsing the sponge regularly.
This may take a while. Always hold the camera so any water will run out of the
camera, this means you are generally working of the bit facing down.
4) Wipe the camera dry with a soft towel.
5) Allow the camera to dry for a day or so.
6) Wipe the camera with a soft cloth to remove any last spots and marks.
7) Treat the leather with a good quality leather conditioner (available from up
market shoe stores).
I avoid the optical parts during this process. Any repairs I may need to do
are performed between steps 5 and 6, unless the leather is really dry, then I
treat the leather so it is not damaged when working on the camera.
Richard
--------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Urmonas
rurmonas@senet.com.au
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] replacement spotmatic battery covers
http://www.kellycamera.com/products/remanufactured_parts.asp
Hey Everett
You were asking about making a business out of manufacturing spotmatic
battery covers some time back. I think someone has beat you to it...
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] RF contrast (Was: 6x6 Seagull 203)
Parlin asks:
> Can I increase the contrast is by
> tinting the 45 deg glass on the VF side?
I collect and repair rangefinder cameras, so I've faced this problem
many times. And I've come up with a good solution:
Get some window film from a hardware store. That's the stuff you put on
windows to block some of the light. You only need a tiny amount, so a
whole roll will be far too much. A small piece of scrap will be fine.
Quick test: Before you've taken the camera apart, just hold a piece of
this window film over the front of the viewfinder to dim it some. If you
like what you see, then you can hide the window film inside the VF per the
instructions below.
The effect is to reduce the brightness of the viewfinder, without
affecting the brightness of the rangefinder-patch. This way, the VF does
not overpower the RF, making the RF-patch easier to see.
Pull the top off the camera, cut a rectangle of window film out, and put
it between the front window of the viewfinder and the half-silvered
mirror. I usually place mine flush against the front-facing side of the
mirror. I've also put it flush behind the front window of the VF.
Either place works just as well; pick whichever is easier.
Alternative: A piece of B&W; film which is developed but not exposed
also works well. It is neutral gray and blocks about 50% of the light,
and is just as effective as window film.
Hope this helps,
Mark Overton
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: RF contrast (Was: 6x6 Seagull 203)
hi again:
it's the one on the VF side - half-silvered so you can see through
it. the material i suggest is stock number B30433-59 on page 45 of
edmund scientific's 'scientifics' catalog #C019C that just arrived.
this is 50mm square, 1mm thick and it reflects 50% and passes 50% of
the light. the price is $15.95 each piece - you need to cut it to
size to fit your camera so you might want to get some microscope
slides to practice cutting on.
many cameras use gold rather than silver but i don't have a source
for that. the edmund mirrors are reasonably durable, normal handling
won't take the silver off.
rick :)=
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Parlin 44" parlin44@h...> wrote:
> Thanx Rick,
>
> But please educate me, which one is the beamsplitter? The one on the VF
> side or RF side? Now that you mentioned it, I noticed the silvering on the
> VF side is very thin.
>
> parlin
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@y...>
> To: camera-fix@y...
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: RF contrast (Was: 6x6 Seagull 203)
> Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001
>
> Hi Parlin:
>
> I think the best way to increase RF contrast in the Seagull is to
> replace the beamsplitter mirror. In mine, the silvering on the
> beamsplitter was almost nonexistent. i replaced it by cutting an old
> miranda slr mirror (which had slits for the meter cell) because i
> didn't have any beamsplitter stock handy, and it works great except
> for a little diffraction around the slits. i'd recommend a 50/50
> beamsplitter from edmund scientific as the best material (it's about
> $16 for a 2" square piece)
>
> rick :)=
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [Rollei] A rattling screw...
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
I travel by air frequently. I have had screws come loose, levers get out
of the proper relation to one another, and lens elements fall out, all from
vibration. Jets are not so bad, but turbo-prop commuter planes are awful
and can shake almost anything loose. I always carry a kit of basic repair
tools when I travel for this reason. There's really nothing you can do to
prevent this short of taking every screw out, putting Loktite on it, and
putting it back.
Bob
> From: "Guido" guido.cova@tin.it>
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001
> To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
> Subject: [Rollei] A rattling screw...
>
> I too had a similar experience some years ago: after a series of air
> travels, a _very_ small screw got loose and finally unscrewed in my
> Rollei35.
> I too fixed it, but being far from home and as I didn't wear glasses, I had
> to use a small screwdriver from a swiss knife (now I have a panoplia of
> screwdrivers for glasses... 8-)
> I was, and still am, sure that high-frequency vibrations from planes were
> responsible for this.
> Similar experiences? What about TLRs?
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Kelvin" kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Leather treatment
A post from the IDCC list which some of you may find interesting.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001
Subject: [IDCC] LEXSOL
> Lexsol...........Get it at a shoe repair store.
> Or Tandy leather. Or Wal Mart.
> Theres the Brown Bottle........Less Neatsfoot oil
> Theres the Beige bottle..........Pure neatsfoot oil.
>
> Mink oil works too. But my experience has been that it
> made the leather feel odd.
> A camera that I treated 30 years ago and treat every 3 years ( A Kodak
4a )
> is still doing fine.
>
> Do not put this stuff on red bellows. It will darken them. I have yet to find a
> treatment for that so I just make new bellows.
> Ken
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Canon Pellix mirror
you wrote:
>Hi Tom:
>
>Here are a few things that I've done from time to time:
>
>1- if you have an old jeweler's screwdriver not larger in diameter
>than the screw, you might try filing a notch in the blade so it looks
>like a tiny fork (with very sharp points), and then try to use it to
>unscrew the broken part of the screw. this sometimes works,
>especially if the break was not very clean and left an irregular
>surface.
There's a special file designed for slicing slots in tiny wrecked screws.
I bought one from Natcam 15 or 20 years ago, don't know if I still have it.
Microtools sells it now, and it's ghastly expensive, but then again, it
was ghastly expensive when I bought mine Way Back When. Caveat: it is
*very* brittle, and you're apt to chunk out a notch or two. It'll still
work, though, just don't use that part. It's nearly paper thin, and the
teeth are ONLY cut into the edges. It cuts a very thin notch, and won't
file out the walls.
>2- failing that, try drilling it out with a drill bit just about the
>same size as the MINOR diameter of the screw thread. if you can get
>this started it will core the center out of the screw and the threads
>can be picked out (or they may just fall out).
>
>3- if that won't work either, you can drill it out slightly larger,
>retap the hole to the next larger size (try micro-tools.com for small
>metric taps) and replace the screw with a new one of the larger
>size. i think micro-tools has screws too, but after a while you'll
>establish a stash of your own from scrapped cameras.
I've drilled out 1.4 screws, tapped to 1.7, and everything was copasetic.
Other times, I've mused out loud (in words I shall not repeat here) about
the fact that tiny expensive metric taps are brittle too.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Bill Cassing" wcassing@thegrid.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
Subject: RE: [camera-fix] Re: Canon Pellix mirror
Hanson and Vermont-American both make screw extractors,
commonly called, "easy-outs."
Bill Cassing
From: torx@nwrain.com (R. Peters)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: restoring old camera cases
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
Some shoe repair shops sell spray cans of shoe dye. One brand is
called Shoe Renew. Take your case with you because it comes in maybe
50 colors of brown, plus black, etc. The best thing I've found for
reconditioning leather is mink oil. It helps keep the leather soft
and pliable. That helps keep straps and leather hinges from breaking.
Occasionally, the leather is already rotten and crumbling, and those
are probably beyond help.
bob
Roland roland.rashleigh-berry@virgin.net> wrote:
>I've seen that site before. It is more focussed on the restitching. I
>was wondering more how to recondition the leather and re-dye it if need
>be. Also what is best for this.
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: "R. Peters" torx@nwrain.net>
Subject: [Rollei] Rollei TLR Prisms...dents
"Minor" dents can easily be removed from brass Rollei prism covers. There
are, as I recall, about 4 screws that hold the metal prism cover onto the
prism. Take those out (don't lose them!).
Then turn the prism cover upside down and lay it on a block of wood. Take
a wood or plastic dowel, and starting at the edges of the "ding", start
tapping it out with a dowel and light hammer, starting at the edges and
working toward the center. Do NOT start in the middle of the dent, and
don't hammer directly on the metal (use the soft dowel)!
I have tapped out dents from one or two where you couldn't even see them
afterward. No big deal. Separation is the bigger problem.
bob
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Dapoz md@dementia.org>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] solvents
Bob Shell wrote:
> I've never seen anything called cellulose thinner in an American pharmacy or
> hardware store. I just phoned the local hardware store and the guy in the
> paint department never heard of it. If it is sold here it must be under a
> different name. Do you know what its chemical name is?
It's probably methyl hydrate or methanol. It does an excellent job of
dissolving many cements and paints. I use it all the time to remove old
sticky light seals. Use lots of Q-tips dipped in it.
-mark
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Rick Oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] random musings on solvents
i've been involved in designing plastic products for the last 25
years or so, and in this capacity i've encountered a number of
combinations of plastic materials and solvents. here are a few
observations, for what they're worth:
- Naphtha (Zippo lighter fluid, benzine, depending on where you live)
seems to be safe in contact with pretty much any plastic and most
paints. it does dissolve some inks, including the stuff that Olympus
uses for the shutter speed scale in the viewfinder of the OM2 (guess
how I found THAT out!)
- Methanol is safe for most plastics, but it will attack some
(polystyrene, i believe) and it will attack some paints.
- Acetone will attack most non-crystalline plastics, but surprisingly
enough it does not seem to attack PET (the stuff they make soda pop
bottles out of).
- 1,1,1 Trichloroethane and carbon tetrachloride (the latter now
banned, i believe) have some odd properties. they don't generally
dissolve plastics, but can weaken them catastrophically and
invisibly. Both of these materials are most common as dry cleaning
fluids, but may appear in degreasers, tuner cleaners and
other 'blended' solvents.
- Nylon, Delrin, polypropylene and polyethylene are crystalline and
are not attacked by the above stuff under normal conditions. Nylon
and Delrin are generally used in gears, bearings and parts subject to
sliding contact in operation... also in insulating collars around
flash synch terminals and that sort of thing.
- Bakelite is crosslinked and is not attacked by much of anything.
- Polycarbonate (the stuff most modern 'plastic' cameras are made
of), styrene, PET and related polyesters, ABS and acrylic are non-
crystalline and are vulnerable to attack by hydrocarbon solvents.
- Polycarbonate is particularly sensitive to exposure to Trichlor and
carbon tetrachloride: it will not dissolve or show surface dullness,
but it will abruptly weaken and may crumble to pieces on contact if
it's under stress (such as by having a screw tightened in a hole in
it, or a pressed-in threaded insert... sometimes just the residual
stress from molding is enough).
- All clear/transparent plastics are non-crystalline and therefore
subject to chemical attack.
- the same characteristics that make crystalline materials resistant
to chemical attack also make them very difficult to paint or glue.
- the stuff that used car dealers spray around the interior of cars
to make everything look nice and new attacks polycarbonate (guess how
i found THAT out).
there's more, but this is what seemed like it might be applicable to
the camera repair environment. hope it may be of some use.
rick :)=
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Don Tuleja" durocshark@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Fotosnaiper FS12
I would probably work the switch a coupla times just to make sure nothing
was trapped inside.
I'm picturing the shutter release on my Kiev88 and there is quite a bit of
"slop" in the movement, so flooding it with lighter fluid (yes, zippo
fuel... in the US "Ronsonol" is the most common brand, but Zippo sells their
own as well) should take care of it.
To provide lubrication, the "graphite-in-lighter-fluid" trick should do
fine. Fill a small cup (doesn't have to be much... a thimble-sized one
should work) with lighter fluid, and then mix in a good quantity of powdered
graphite, such as that used to lubricate locks. Don't put so much in that
it's a paste, though! (My first attempt... heehee)
The lighter fluid will act as a carrier to deliver the graphite into the
mechanism. Work the switch a few times during application to make sure the
graphite is in all the necessary places.
Good luck!
Don
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Roman Rohleder" rjrohleder@web.de>
{snip}
Simple Zippo-fuel? Gasoline, Benzin or however you want to call it ?
Ok, No smoking and leave it a long time down to dry, right ?
Thanks!
Beste Gruesse, Alles Gute,
roman rohleder
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Lens Helicoid Lubricant
Peter Kelson wrote:
> The point made by Javier Perez about temperature and viscosity
> stability makes me think that automotive grease sold as a wheel
> bearing lubricant may be suitable. This has to withstand a
> considerable temperature range.
As far as temperature-tolerance goes, yes, auto bearing grease is fine.
But there are other considerations:
* Viscosity - I've found that auto greases are usually NLGI 2, which
is a bit too thick in my experience. A grease of NLGI 0 or 00
would be better.
* Out-gassing - You don't want a grease that out-gasses, leaving
a thin film (haze) on your optics. That data-sheets for greases
specify evaporation-loss; I'd look for one under 1%. They are
commonly over 2%, which is a lot of material being released into
the lens.
Curt Fargo recommends and sells Super Lube at www.micro-tools.com as
helical grease, and it has very low evaporation, and wide temperature-
tolerance. Unfortunately, it is NLGI 2, so I've thinned mine by mixing
in some Nye oil (also sold by Mr. Fargo for cameras). This mixture has
worked very well for me, and after going through the trouble of mixing,
it should last several years or a lifetime, depending on how many
helicals you need to grease.
Termaline EP Grease 0 (by Bel Ray Labs) is NLGI 0, and worked great on
a camera I used it on. Unfortunately, it has a smell, making me worry
about out-gassing. Further testing is needed on this one.
Somebody somewhere suggested using valve oil for trumpets, which you
would buy at music stores. Has anyone tried that on a helical?
HTH,
Mark Overton
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Ellis Feldman ellis.feldman@usa.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: random musings on solvents continue
Hello
I use lighter fluid in front of an exhaust fan to clean diaphragm
blades. This is carefully noted in Tomosy's books on repair.
It is amazing what floats to the surface with the fluid. All sorts of
dusts strings, clumps, as well os the oil.
The idea is to soak up the fluid before it dries with some lintless
paper.
ellis
> Howdy Mark and others,
>
> Firstly, good to see a board consisting of people like myself that
> aren't scared to have a go at DIY camera repair. Good one...
>
> I had to make a comment about Methyl Ethyl Ketone and safety,
> though. It is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that the user doesn't get this
> in their eyes - even a tiny bit. In fact, in a local technical
> college (where it is used with fibreglass), they go so far as to wear
> safety goggles AND have specially adapted water bottles next to each
> workstation, with eye cups on the top so that the eye can be flooded
> immediately any MEK comes into contact with the eye.
>
> This stuff can apparently badly damage the eye, and will keep on
> damaging the eye long after you think that there is no longer a
> problem. Please be warned...
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Stuart, Perth, Western Australia
>
> --- In camera-fix@y..., Mark Overton mark@s...> wrote:
> > Hi Kelvin,
> >
> > Two more are:
> >
> > Acetone
> > MEK - Methyl Ethyl Keytone
> >
> > Both are useful for dissolving old glue and paint (and most
> plastics!).
> > For cleaning oils and greases, I've found Naptha and
> Methanol+hexanes
> > based contact cleaners work better.
> >
> > Also, I use contact cement for gluing leatherette back on. Contact
> cement
> > is based on MEK, and it evaporates over time, making the cement too
> > thick. So I thin it by pouring a little MEK into the glue-bottle.
> >
> > Mark Overton
> >
> > -----
> >
> > >
> > > hi all
> > >
> > > I found methanol, denatured alcohol and menthylated spirit (but
> no ether) at
> > > my
> > > local shop.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I am thinking of compiling a list of commonly available
> solvents and
> > > chemicals
> > > and their respective uses ... I will post these up at the home
> page for
> > > general info.
> > > If anyone can share info on these, I will collate the responses.
> > >
> > > 1 Methanol
> > > 2. Menthylated spirit
> > > 3. Denatured alcohol ( isopropyl alcohol?)
> > > 4. Naptha (lighter fluid)
> > > 5. Ether (starting fluid? for aperture blades?)
> > > 6. Compound of ammonia and Hydrogen peroxide (cleaning of
> fungus)
> > > 7. Ammonia (window cleaner - lenses)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: "Thomas A. Frank" taf@wiredwizard.com>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Non-Rollei Accessories
>I've been looking around in san Diego for some watch or clock
>oil, but haven't found any yet.
The easiest way to get watch and clock oil is to contact Steve Berger
at Timesavers:
http://www.timesavers.com
which is a great material supply house to the horological community.
You can tell him I sent you.
Be forewarned that there are a great variety of lubricants available;
you'll need to figure out what you want before Steve can help you
(he's an expert on clocks, but I don't know if he knows anything
about cameras). The prices for watch oil can be shockingly high ($20
for 3.5 ml for a top notch synthetic). But then, you don't need very
much...
I have no connection to Timesavers other than as a very happy
customer (I'm also a watch collector, and get all my tools from
Steve).
Tom Frank
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Michael Lee" mleeac@singnet.com.sg>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Digest Number 162
To share some experience, I use an old digital camera (CASIO QV) to snap
records while dismantling any camera I'm not familiar with. You might want
to do this and get some leftover mileage from those cameras, which are
available dirt cheap. I look at the pics on the TV screen if necessary, else
the LCD work just fine. Get one with the macro mode!
Michael
> Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001
> From: "Frank Hart" fjhart@bigpond.com>
> Subject: Re: Help with Exakta B, type 4.1
>
> Hi Norbert,
> Sorry to keep you waiting on this, I've had a busy week.
> The reason I suggested you refrain from too much digging is that I have had
> similar problems recently and have found that it is perfectly practical to
> replace or re-attach just one tape and all you really need to do is to
> remove the top cover, front lens plate and the mirror cage.
> Before we get too far into this, even doing that is a big job if you are
> not used
> to this kind of work and I suggest that you make sure you have a good work
> area, clean and well lit, and can leave it all undisturbed if you wish.The
> other thing is that I have read somewhere recently that Exaktas are becoming
> quite collectible and you may prefer that the job be done professionally.
> If so, you may be surprised that it is less expensive than you think.
>
> I'm also assuming that the shutter would operate ok if it were not for this
> curtain problem.
>
> Recently I have worked on two Yashica J7 SLR's They come from the late 60's
> and have horizontal running fabric focal plane shutters. Probably there are
> basic similarities to the Exakta . They both appeared to have the same
> condition as you describe. One wonky tape on the second curtain. I
> ruined the first one. Well perhaps it is salvageable, but not this year. I
> dismantled it a little too far, kept inadequate notes and damaged the winder
> return spring housing. Also, someone had been into it before me, and I kept
> on finding little brass shim washers, just floating around loose inside
> the body.
>
> You can probably follow much this same procedure. I expect you know or can
> work out how to remove the top cover and the lens mounting plate. (On most
> cameras you need to carefully peel back the leathers near the lens to expose
> the mounting screws.)
>
> The better camera I approached much more cautiously and removed just the top
> cover, the front lens mounting plate, the prism and the mirror cage, and
> then I could see enough of the shutter transport mechanism to study and
> consider the problem.
> Now, the first camera had a broken tape. However, the second camera, the
> tape
> had not broken but the adhesive had partially failed and the tape had
> "crept" on its
> winding capstan and only needed to be re-tensioned. Perhaps it is the same
> on
> your camera. Never mind. Even if broken, it is not too difficult to totally
> replace at this stage. On the Yashica (and probably all the other similar
> shutters) the tapes are only glued to a little "capstan" wheel. on each
> end of the shaft. These capstans are just a little wider than the tape and
> do not have flanges. I had purchased a couple of metres of similar ribbon
> from a big haberdashery store. It is 3 mm wide, black, and has zero
> discernible stretch. It is the kind of tape which is often used in ladies
> lingerie. It is very cheap. (the tape I mean , not the ladies!)
> The next thing is to find a suitable adhesive. Don't be tempted to use
> epoxy or cyanoacrylate. They are both tempting but could totally ruin the
> job and would not be suitable in the long term. You need something with zero
> residual tackiness. (because the layers of wound tape would stick to each
> other.) I used balsa glue. The kind of glue for model planes made from balsa
> wood. It used to be popular for all kinds of things years ago and still is a
> very useful glue to have around the workshop. I used Testor's "Cement for
> metal and wood models" It comes in a small tube and is USA origin, as I
> think you are, so you should be able to get it ok.. I live in Melbourne
> Australia.
>
> If the tape has just crept on the capstan, pick it free with the point of a
> scalpel and then clean up the capstan with laquer thinners and a cotton bud.
> Beware of the fire hazard with this stuff ! Just keep a thimbleful near
> your work or in the house. It stinks a bit too. Also clean the loose end
> of the tape with the same stuff
> At this point you should be able to re-attach the winding arm or wheel and
> operate the shutter. You will need to do this to turn the capstan for
> cleaning.
> You should experiment a little with the tape and glue to get the feel of
> how it
> handles and the grab time etc. I was suspicious of this means of attachment
> until I tried gluing tape tangentially onto a large nail (similar diameter
> to the capstan) and seeing just how well it will roll up and what large
> forces
> you can tansmit with absolutely no risk of glue failure, unless you wind in
> the reverse direction.
>
> Next, tack glue about one foot of the new ribbon to the loose end and
> thread it back to the capstan along the proper path. This is easier said
> than done. You may need to devise ways to accomplish this. Perhaps bend a
> paper clip into a hook shape and hook, or push it, round the capstan. At
> this
> stage the shutter should be in the cocked position. Then, tension the tape
> until the tension in both tapes is the same and the two curtains cross each
> other at
> right angles. Do a dry run to be sure you have it right.
> Now put a little glue onto the tip of a screwdriver and smear it on the
> capstan at the contact area. Don't be mean with the glue but don't overdo it
> either. If you have experimented you will know how much to use. Hold it in
> place for a few minutes with your finger tip or a suitable implement then
> leave it for half an hour. Then pick away the "threading" tape and smear a
> LITTLE of the glue over the new work, like a varnish, and leave for a couple
> of hours.
> When you return you should find that it will all operate ok and the repair
> is complete and re-assembly is the only remaining work.
>
> Maybe it was necessary to replace the complete tape if so, you can probably
> see how to remove the old tape from the "lath" I think that is the term.
> You can attach new tape using the same adhesive and may wish to put in a
> stitch or two. You can get tiny curved needles from the pharmacy for
> stitching wounds, or, if you can remove the back from the camera you could
> use a full size straight needle. Just make the new tape about a foot long so
> it is easy to thread through the mechanism and re-tension.
> Once attached to the capstan you will just need to cut it to length with a
> scalpel.
>
> Concerning re-assembly. if you have made good notes and been been careful,
> you will know where everything goes. Those little shim washers are tricky.
> They should go back in the same places. Even if you achieve that, it is
> hard to get them to stay put while you replace the main parts which sit on
> them. You can stick them in place with a tiny smear of petroleum jelly or
> paper glue. Sometimes you can put tooth picks in each hole, locating the
> shims, and then lower the part in place over the toothpicks, and then remove
> the toothpicks and insert the screws. Sometimes the shims are not washers
> but little rectangles or crescents of shim material. Sometimes they are so
> thin they are more like foil than sheet. The manufacturer has put them there
> to maintain the geometry of the image at the focal planes of the camera and
> viewfinder. He has the capability to measure the need for shims. I don't
> think we do. Perhaps someone in the group can tell us a bit more about
> these shims.
> Anyway, that's about it. Good luck, and let's hear the result.
> Frank
...
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] TZ Toolshop
http://www.tztoolshop.com/
Good selection of watch repair tools which can be useful for camera
work too.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: William Gartin william_gartin@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Wiha Tools
kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg wrote:
> http://www.tztoolshop.com/
>
> Good selection of watch repair tools which can be useful for camera
> work too.
I'd like to add Wiha Tools to the list. The following recommendation came
from Skip on the NikonMF list. I bought the screwdrivers he recommended, and
have been very pleased with them. Note that the set he mentions being on
sale may no longer be on sale.
Quoted recommendation from NikonMF, received 11/1/01:
> Wiha's are made in Germany out of cro-van-moly steel. The tips are harder
> than hammered hell. In addition to the camera tool places, you can buy them
> direct from Wiha. The web site has monthly sales with good prices.
> http://www.wihatools.com/>
>
> In fact, here is a precision screwdriver set on sale for you: $21.
> http://www.wihatools.com/featuredtool.htm>
>
> If I can recommend one more screwdriver to add to your potential order, it
> would be a Phillips #000. This is VERY small, but you find them used on
> Nikon lenses. Might as well get it now & save on shipping if you ever need it.
> I don't think you'll need anything after this. That is unless you want the
> ultimate set of Slotted & Phillips which would include:
> _________________________________________
> Mostly Ultimate Precision Screwdriver Kit
> _________________________________________
>
> REGULAR SLOTTED
> ___________________
>
> 0.8mm (Wow~Micro! In case you want to disassemble one of those transmitters
> they put on the back of African Killer bees! :) )
> 1.0mm
> 1.2mm this is the smallest I've ever used, lens or otherwise
> 1.5mm included in kit on sale above
> 1.8mm this would be the next to get after the #000 phillips; a lot of screws
> seem to be this size
> 2.0mm in kit
> 2.5mm biggest you'll probably ever use before moving to a bigger handled
> screwdriver as more appropriate for job.
>
> 3.0 is in the kit, and you can also buy 3.5 & 4.0mm...these are big, you would
> probably choose a LARGE HANDLE screwdriver first before picking up a
> jeweler's/electronics handle screwdriver, so I can't recommend the 3.5 & 4.0mm
> to anyone working on lenses.
>
> PHILLIPS
>
> #1 these are all in that $20 kit above
> #0 "
> #00 "
> #000 I recommend getting this one too, as your first pick outside
> the kit
>
> Finally, notice that these are available in different lengths.
> ____________________
>
> SUMMARY
>
> Let me give you a final priority list in order of what I think you should buy
> to start a nice set. Just purchase each item listed in order, until you run
> out of money:
>
> 1st purchase: $21 kit #261-90 handles range 40-60mm
> 2nd purchase: #000 phillips #261-02 40mm handle
> 3rd purchase: 1.8mm slotted #260-18 40mm handle
> 4th purchase 1.2mm slotted #260-12 40mm handle
> 5th purchase 0.8mm slotted #260-08 40mm handle
>
> The individual pieces never go on sale at Wiha, only sets, FWIW.
>
> While you're at the web site, they have a fantastic selection of tweezers.
> There must be about 60-80 different tweezers to choose from!
>
> I have no affiliation with Wiha other than being a really happy customer.
>
> - Skip
--
William Gartin william_gartin@mac.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] camera terms and parts
Bob Shell wrote:
> BTW, one of the best basic texts on shutter repair is the US Military
> repair book for Graphic cameras. I picked one up ages ago at a used book
> store. It covers in good detail how both the focal plane and leaf shutters
> work, and how to fix them. Funniest part is where it tells you how to
> render cameras unusable if captured by the enemy. Suggests running over
> them with tanks, chopping up with axes, blowing up with explosives, and
> other good stuff. I know there is also a military manual on Leica but I
> have never found one.
Hmm, does it have info on how to destroy a Leica by running it over
with a tank, axe, etc?
That would go over great on the Leica User's Group! :-)
Do you think there's any market for a book on repairing leaf shutters?
If it would only sell one copy a month, why should I bother?
On a different topic, I built my own auto-collimator:
http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm>
Mark
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of Contaflices ]
> From: "Josef Seidl" JosefSeidl@web.de>
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of
> Contaflices ]
>
> What do you use to reassemble shutter blades - to keep them from falling out
> during the assembly. On the few that I have done so far, I used grease near
> the pivots to stick them in place and later on submersed the whole shutter in
> lighter fluid to get the grease back out. It worked, but I am sure there must
> be a more professional way.
Too late. You put a circle of masking tape on each sides of the blade set
to
hold all the blades in place prior to disassembly. You also note with a
mark on the tape which way is the top of the shutter. Same goes for
diaphragm blade sets.
bob
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 12:15:40 -0400
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of Contaflices ]
> From: "Josef Seidl" JosefSeidl@web.de>
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of
> Contaflices ]
>
> too late indeed - So I will have to continue the messy greasy way - or maybe
> just clean them well and then use masking tape.
>
> But, at any rate, is there no danger that some of the glue from the masking
> tape stays on the blades and causes stickyness afterwards?
>
Not if you use really good masking tape.
But you clean the blades after assembly, anyway. You put a piece of wooden
dowel cut to the right length against the blades from the back and wipe them
with a chamois on the front, then repeat on the reverse side. This is
straight from the Compur repair manual. They used to sell proper sized
dowels, but at Compur prices!! I just found mine at a hardware store.
Bob
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: mark@sdd.hp.com
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Prontor shutter repair - was "Reliability of Contaflices ]
Hi All,
I just subscribed to this group a few minutes ago, being referred
to it by a seller on eBay. But I already see a few familiar names
here (members of the IDCC list).
> What do you use to reassemble shutter blades - to keep them
> from falling out during the assembly.
Here's a trick I use with great success:
I have cut a small piece of foam rubber into a circular shape
so that it just fits into a shutter's throat. When putting
blades back on the shutter, this foam in the throat prevents
the blades from falling into it.
After the blades are placed on the shutter-mech, I hold the shutter
horizontally (blades still facing up), and fit the housing down onto
it. This is a bit awkward because I have to look up to see how
everything is fitting together, but it works fine anyway.
BTW, I wash the blades individually with lighter fluid, and wipe
them with a soft cloth, holding them the whole time with tweezers.
This results in perfectly clean blades, with no fingerprints or
cleaner-residue.
HTH,
Mark Overton
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Stuck screws
Most of the people trying to use Phillips screw drivers on cameras are
members of the "Ed Romney School of Camera Repair and Heavy Equipment
Operation" *. The only cameras using Phillips screws are a few American
made ones. All Japanese and German cameras use cross point screws (or
slotted screws in older ones). If you hold a Phillips and a cross point
driver side by side you can see the difference easily. Phillips drivers
are pointed, cross point are flat on the end. You can sort of convert
Phillips by grinding off the point, but why bother when the real thing
is readily available? Because they don't seat properly down into the
screw, Phillips drivers will slip out of and damage cross point screw
heads.
Bob
* A subsidiary of the "Close Cover Before Striking School of Commercial
Photography and Ambulance Driving".
> From: twl@alltel.net
> Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Stuck screws
>
> Ooops... My learning curve is showing. Thanks for pointing me in
> the right direction. I believe I have some of the denatured ethyl to
> soak it in and I'll look around online for some cross-point Wiha's.
> BTW - This was a totally non-functional lens when I got it. I'd just
> as soon play all of my stoopid cards on this one.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: "How it Works"
> From: Robert Monaghan rmonagha@post.smu.edu>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: "How it Works"
>
> another thing might be repairs NOT to attempt, depending on your skill level;
> e.g., someone with no background in electronics should probably NOT be
> repairing high voltage side of studio strobes ;-) or Bronica S2 mechanics
> with minimal experience in camera repairs etc.
This bears strong emphasis. Unless you really get a kick out of "shock
therapy", keep yer mitts out of flash units. Hot shoe flash units aren't
likely to kill you, but they can sure knock you up against a wall hard.
Studio flash systems can kill you. No joking about that. Unless you
really know what you're doing just regard them as places you don't go.
When any of my studio flash units have problems they get boxed up and
shipped off to specialty repair shops.
Bob
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Home-made collimator to test focus and lens-quality
Hi All,
Since I just joined this group, I don't know if the subject of making
your own auto-collimator has come up, or if folks have seen mine.
Here's the URL for the one I made, with photos and text:
http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm
I built this for calibrating focus on the film, but I use it most of
the time for gauging the quality of lenses, because you can see the image
degrade as you pan the camera from center to corner of the negative.
Is Thomas Tomosy in this Yahoo group? He and I corresponded about this
collimator a while back.
Enjoy,
Mark Overton
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: camfix@webtv.net
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Home-made collimator to test focus and lens-quality
--- In camera-fix@y..., Mark Overton mark@s...> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Since I just joined this group, I don't know if the subject of making
> your own auto-collimator has come up, or if folks have seen mine.
> Here's the URL for the one I made, with photos and text:
>
> http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm
>
> I built this for calibrating focus on the film, but I use it most of
> the time for gauging the quality of lenses, because you can see the image
> degrade as you pan the camera from center to corner of the negative.
>
> Is Thomas Tomosy in this Yahoo group? He and I corresponded about this
> collimator a while back.
>
> Enjoy,
>
* Mark Overto
*
Hi Mark;
I built mine from a Pentax spot meter that had a lot of electrial problems and was not worth the expense of repairing! As all of the optics were in good working order I decided that I could turn this "junk" into a repair tool. I have been happy with the results thus far.
But you caught me on a "feeling Stupid" day. :-) Everett
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Removing the 3.5F front cover (was non-rollei
accessories)
you wrote:
>Sorry to hear that you couldn't fix the selftimer but separate ones that you
>can screw on the shutter release can easily be found. For me, it's the sort
>of items that will be left at home when I need it, like cable release, bean
>bags, sometimes the camera :( But it may work for you.
>
>I remember having seen in the exploded views in the Technical Report that
>you actually don't need to remove the rear cell in order to have the
>complete shutter and lens remove from the lensboard. It's locked by a ring
>but you probably need a similar spanner for it. Then, I think you'll only
>get the ring that cocks the selftimer and not the internal parts of the
>shutter which I think that cause the problem.
>
>
>Siu Fai
>
>
I suspect that if the cover of the shutter is removed a little naptha
(lighter fluid) applied carefully will unstick the timer. The tiniest
amount of fine oil on the gears may do the same thing. The self timer is
typically not used very often so it more likely to suffer from gummy
lubricant than the speed retarder.
I would suggest getting a copy of the reprinted Compur shutter manual
before doing much with these shutters. They are tricky since accidently
bumping a lever out of place will jam the thing and it may be difficult to
know where it belongs.
It may also be helpful to take Polaroids of the shutter as you get into
it so as to have a record. Don't fool yourself that you will remember where
things go, you won't.
Giving the shutter a propper cleaning really requires removing it from
the camer and doing some disassembly. I would practice on some less
valuable camera than an F before undertaking this. Again, for a camera of
this quality and value the cost of a CLA by an expert is easily justified.
I don't know what lubricants Harry Fleenor or Martin at Marflex uses but
modern lubricants are much more resistant to oxidation and gumming than
traditional ones, so the life of a CLA is pretty long. In terms of cost of
repair vs: camera lifetime its pretty cheap.
I am constantly amazed at the quality of Rollei design and the amount of
thought that went into them. The construction ane material quality is also
excellent, which is why they continue to be supportable at rather advanced
ages.
If you are interested in learning Rollei repair just for fun I suggest
getting a beater Rolleicord or MX Rolleiflex. They are complicated but not
so much so as the later models. Rolleicords are fairly simple because they
don't have the automatic threading mechanism and have a simpler winding
mechanism. Get the reprint Rollei book I mentioned in an earlier post and
Claus Prochnow's _Rollei Report_. I also have National Camera repair books
but can't remember how I got them now. Even Ed Romney's books are useful
(although he is a little too much into bending things) and I think his
current stuff looks less like it was made up by a ten year old.
I like working on cameras although I would never undertake it as a
profession. I have profound respect for people like Harry Fleenor who have
such a magnificant standard of craftsmanship in addition to their
knowledge. It takes a steady hand and a relaxed attitude, plus a great deal
of carefullness but it is a joy to work on something as well designed as a
Rollei or old Leica (I can do screw mount models). Having something I have
worked on gives me a special sense of its really belonging to me, perhaps
partly because I can appreciate whats going on under the skin.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001
To: rollei@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
From: Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] For a change of pace
you wrote:
>I took my new 'cord out today at lunchtime and shot a roll of
>tri-x. This is the first roll of film through the camera (by me
>:-) It is a wonderful fall day here and I work on a college
>campus so there is always something happening or people nearby.
>
>To answer a question from last week, my Cord is S# 1091xxx, has
>a compur-rapid shutter, and a schneider Xenar lens.
>
>Question (and I'll browse the archives but just in case someone
>knows of the top of their head): can I remove the "viewfinder"
>(folding top assembly and glass screen) so that I can clean the
>focusing lens, or is this best something left to a professional?
> I see four tiny screws, two on each side of the camera, but
>don't need to make things worse by mucking about where I'm not
>supposed to be. Needs a CLA, and a maxwell screen, anyway but
>I'm just poor at the moment.
>
>It is a quite different way of taking photos than my FE2! It'll
>be a little less exciting once I get a working light meter...
>
>Brian in sunny Tejas
>
The four screws on top of the flange around the focusing hood hold the
hood to the camera body. The hood lifts out exposing the mirror and rear of
the finder lens.
Everything goes back into alignment automatically.
I've found a couple of Rolleicords (model IV) with some sort of
condensate inside the finder lens. It looked like tiny drops of oil It
cleaned off easily with lens cleaner but required disassembling the finder
lens, which requires some disassembly of the front of the camera to get
out. Maybe not worth the trouble.
Clean the mirror by blowing it off. I don't know if the mirror on this
model is aluminized or silver coated. If its silver it will have a
protetive coating of laquer on it so be careful of what you clean it with.
The ground glass can be cleaned with a little dishwashing detergent in
water. Ground glass can accumulate an oily deposit from junk in the air
which makes it very dim. Cleaning helps a lot. Since the finder lens in the
Cord is f/3.2 compared to f/2.8 in the Flex the finder image is never as
bright. Undoubedly a Maxwell screen or similar will improve things a lot.
Actually, I have a couple of Rolleigrids (Rollei's drop on Fresnel lens)
which I find also helps a lot and just drops onto the top of the existing
ground glass. You must find them used (actually I am looking for another one).
From the serial number it appears you have what Prochnow calls a
Rolleicord II built around 1947 to 1949. There seem to have been several
variations of the Model II, someone with better German than I have could
probably figure out from Prochnow what the differences were, perhaps
shutters.
I have a Rolleicord IV and a Rolleiflex MX both with Xeners. They are
very sharp lenses. There is some controversey as to the relative quality of
the Xenar vs: the Tessar. I suspect variations in individual lenses are
greater than any inherant difference.
I find the Rolleicord actually easier to use than the Flex due to the
position of the shutter lever and not having to toss it from hand to hand
to wind film. If you hold the camera in the palm of your left hand the left
index finger is used for both cocking and tripping the shutter. The force
is against the ball of the thumb so the camera doesn't move. A very neat
and releatively light weight camera with excellent optical performance.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: chnr@aol.com (ChNR)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 07 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Source for black cloth tape
For pinholes at the corners, I have used this method and it works quite well.
Mix rubber cement with flat black paint and dab it on the hole from the inside
of the bellows. If the holes are not large, you will hardly notice the repair
job.
Chuck Richards
St. Louis, MO
From: sfeigh@aol.comewithme (Scoot)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 08 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Source for black cloth tape
>
>I have an old camera with a bellows that has pinholes at the edges of the
>folds. I want to try a fix I have read a lot about, which is to tape the
>edges with good-quality black cloth tape. However, I have searched high and
>low for a source for black cloth tape and I haven't found one. Home Depot,
>office supply stores, craft stores, camera shops, etc. So, where can I find
>the stuff?
>
Find your nearest theatre supply house. Ask for gaff tape. It's black. It's
cloth. It's non-reflective. And it fixes everything but a broken heart.
(but, it does come close)
I'm really surprised that a good camera shop doesn't carry it.
Scoot
From: rwatson767@aol.com (RWatson767)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 08 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Source for black cloth tape
Jim
> Source for black cloth tape
Rip Stop nylon tape. Used to repair tents. At an outdoor store.
Bob AZ
From: jcpere@aol.com (JCPERE)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Date: 08 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: Source for black cloth tape
> "Jim Hand" JimHand32@msn.com
>I have an old camera with a bellows that has pinholes at the edges of the
>folds. I want to try a fix I have read a lot about, which is to tape the
>edges with good-quality black cloth tape. However, I have searched high and
>low for a source for black cloth tape and I haven't found one. Home Depot,
>office supply stores, craft stores, camera shops, etc. So, where can I find
>the stuff?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim
>
I've used Scotch Photographic Tape #235. Try www.porters.com or
1-800-553-2001. Expensive.
Chuck
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: dc14032@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Digest Number 96
--- In camera-fix@y..., Bob Shell bob@b...> wrote:
> Sometimes the only source for screws to match older ones are junk
cameras
> from flea markets and yard sales.
>
> Bob
A good source for metric screws might be a well stocked hobby shop.
Northwest Shortlines - (a supplier of model RR accessories)has
packets of metric screws in many sizes & less cost than other
sources. If not available, then try a Walthers model RR catalog for a
complete listing under scratch bldg supplies & have the shop order
them. I've used them for yrs.
Don
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: dc14032@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Digest Number 96
--- In camera-fix@y..., rolohar@a... wrote:
> Bob:
>
> Are there URL's for these places that you could post to the List?
www.nwsl.com. Lists all the screws/prices etc. Walthers is a model RR
wholesale/dealer supplier. Most hobby shops carry a "counter" copy of
the Walthers catalog for browsing.
Don
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: "Kelvin" kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] tools
1.4mm jeweller's screwdriver flat-head for cameras.
Set of spanner wrenches and assortment of furniture leg caps for lenses.
----- Original Message -----
From: "cherry blossom" raggamuffin12@yahoo.ca>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] tools
> what are the best tools for taking apart your camera and lens?
>
> thank you
>
>
>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "dumbburro" dumbburro@yahoo.ca>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: czj biometar 2.8 80mm
--- In camera-fix@y..., "uen1y" uengel@u...> wrote:
> Does anybody know how to get the front lens out of the body for
> cleaning? There seems to be no way to use the usual tools.
> tia u.e.
Try this site for Biometar repair
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/biometar.html
Although it's a different focal length, maybe it'll help.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: kelvin kelvinlee@pacific.net.sg>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] czj biometar 2.8 80mm
Hollowed rubber cup (like those for furniture lens) used to get the dress
ring off... then spanner wrench underneath.
you wrote:
>Does anybody know how to get the front lens out of the body for
>cleaning? There seems to be no way to use the usual tools.
>tia u.e.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Wiha Tools
> From: William Gartin william_gartin@mac.com>
> Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001
> To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Wiha Tools
>
> As I understand it (second-hand knowledge, so I may be mistaken), the four
> blades of the phillips are also tapered in thickness down to the point,
> whereas the crosspoint's four blades are a constant thickness to keep the
> tip from wanting to ramp up out of the screw head.
Correct. Cross point screws are superior in many ways to Phillips, which is
why camera companies have all switched to them. Except for some old
USA-made cameras, Phillips screws were never used in cameras.
Bob
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: ccm952@bellsouth.net
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Grease for Lens Helicoids revisted
Here are a bunch of Grease links:; Philip
NYOGEL 774
http://www.nyelubricants.com/automotive/DS-PDF/700-ds/774VL.pdf
NYOGEL's at MICROTOOLS
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/lubricants.htm
BallBearing Oil and greases
http://www.alpinebearing.com/cleanpg.htm
"Remove the super-stiff Chinese mystery grease from the ocular
focusing threads and replace it with much smoother standard binocular
grease (Nyogel 795A). "
http://www.oberwerk.com/bigbinos/whyus.htm>
Grease Info
http://www.e-bearings.cc/lube.htm>
Synthetic Oil Viscosity and Compatibility Chart (PDF )rates the
compatibility of synthetic base oils with more that 20 plastics and
elastomers.
*** ( Watch OUT; some synthetic OILS and Greases will REACT with
certain PLASTICS etc....)****
http://www.nyelubricants.com/literature/engineering_pdf/Synthetic_Oil
_Compat_Chart.pdf>
>From and copyrighted by:
http://www.nyelubricants.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] of windex
>Storing them in film cannisters shouldn't be the cause. Window cleaner
>taken from either the original container (which, by the way is also plastic)
>or the recycled film cannister don't appear to produce different effects- or
>for that matter, marks still appear regardless of where the fluid came from.
Semi-tangential to this, but it might save someone some grief -- I suggest
avoiding all "eyeglass" cleaning fluids, no matter how wonderful the claims
on the label. All of them that I've tried seem to leave a film that is
near-impossible to remove. It smears around, and more fluid -- and more
wiping -- just smears it around more.
My conclusion, after deconstructing the benefits claimed on the labels, is
that the "anti-fog" and so forth depend on "something" being left on the
lens surface. My logic is that any "benefit" imparted by the fluid would be
entirely dependent on it leaving something *on* the lens. Otherwise -- if
it just left a perfectly clean lens -- there would be no way for the
cleaning fluid to have any affect on the glass. IMO the most important
characteristic of a lens cleaner -- besides removing dirt and not damaging
the coating -- is that it must leave absolutely *no* residue. Anything
that leave an anti-fogging "something" (or anti-static, or anti-anything)
on the lens is automatically disqualified.
Caveat: if you've got to go on a shoot in a hostile environment where
you're faced with either the loss of the job (due to fogged lenses from
miserable temp/humidity combo), or "gunked" lenses (from eyeglass type
cleaner) that you can restore afterwards with some no-residue cleaner, then
you'll obviously do what makes sense rather than follow "good advice" by
rote.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Ron Schwarz rs@clubvb.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Nikon EM & Nikkor 50mm f2 problems
>the second problem is a Nikkor-H.C 50mm f2 recently purchased on
>ebay - the focus ring has a lot of play in it, about a 1/4 inch of
>slack. Is it possible to fis this, or would I be better off leaving
>it alone?
The most common cause of sloppy focus in Nikkor helicoids (IMO) is the
plastic "key" that prevents the inner helicoid from rotating as you turn
the focus ring. It's held in by two screws, and they tend to loosen up.
Ususally there are two holes you can use to access the screwheads, you've
got to remove the control rings to get to them, but once you do, it's a two
second repair to tighten them. If you wait too long, one will fall out,
and lodge somewhere in the lens. If you ever get a Nikkor that has a
strangely restricted focus range, it's probably because one of those screws
fell out and migrated to where it didn't belong.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Pat Mullen gator6@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: Fw: [camera-fix] Contaflex III con't
It's not a good idea to EVER do that, unless you have all the glass out or
access to all the inner surfaces. The lighter fluid, et. al., will creep
onto the glass and you will have a real mess (as well as a camera that is
no longer usable at all). That said, the lighter fluid/graphite will very
often get a shutter working once again; at least for awhile anyway . It is
not a substitute for a proper CLA, but the shutter will probably work okay
up to 1/250. On a Synchro Compur, you really have to remove the blades and
polish them to get a good 1/500. That is a very major job on a Contaflex.
To flush clean the shutter on a Contaxflex III or IV, you'll have to remove
that middle element, the bezel, (as I recall there is also a cover under
that), and the speed ring. This isn't too difficult and is pretty
intuitive as you go along. The lighter fluid will get all over the front
face of the rear element, so you'll have to clean that before you
reassemble. You'll need to make a jig to hold the diaphragm open in order
to do this. You can bend a large paper clip to fit inside the shutter
casing (camera facing you, on the left side) to hold the lever up (you'll
see how to do this). I wouldn't do this unless the camera is otherwise
unusable and I would practice on a junker before I tried it on a nice
one. You can get junkers on eBay for very little.
you wrote:
>Hi Jon and Pat
>
>Thanks for the tips. I'm saving these posts for a closer look at the camera
>when I next get the chance.
>
>Was wondering about dripping a mixture of little lighter fluid and graphite
>poweder
>through the shutter speed ring into the shutter as lubrication . Do you
>think it
>will help anything?
>
>After dripping in lighter fluid et. all ... it seems to have largely freed
>up enough things
>to make this a workable camera.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Pat Mullen" gator6@prodigy.net>
>To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001
>Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Contaflex III con't
>
>
> > This should not be too big of a job. After you remove the front element,
> > you'll have to remove the front bezel to make this easier. As I recall,
> > you just remove three screws and it will come right off. The middle
> > element, the one you want to remove, threads out normally. Look at the
> > front of the black ring around it and see it there's a tiny lock key.
>Only
> > the later III's and IV's have this. if so, put a drop of acetone on it to
> > dissolve the varnish that holds it in place, turn it with a pair of
> > tweezers and it will come right off. Before I had the proper tool for
>this
> > job, I would put a piece of rubber (from a kitchen type rubber glove) over
> > the element group, then put an automotive hose clamp around the
> > circumference and and grab that with a pair of channel locks.
> >
> >
> >you wrote:
> > >hi Jon ,and all
> > >
> > >I am looking at my contaflex III.
> > >
> > >There appears to be a bit of mildew in the glass element group that
> > >is in the body (shutter assembly area). Does anyone know how I can
> > >get it open to clean?
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "rick_oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Lighter fluid?
Not OT at all. Lighter fluid is the ONLY good solvent that can be
counted on to be safe with nearly all plastics. it does dissolve
some inks though, including the ones used in some viewfinder
displays, so some caution is still a good thing.
it is know outside the USA commonly as benzine (which is quite
different from benzene, so don't confuse them) and i think the
generally accepted generic term is petroleum naphtha.
rick :)=
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Don Tuleja" durocshark@h...> wrote:
> When I worked in a pet shop, they used regular cheap paper labels
> on acrylic
> aquaria to label and price fish. The glue wouldn't come off for
> anything.
>
> We used lighter fluid to dissolve the glue. It didn't harm the
> acrylic at
> all. Worked great until I convinced the store that the practice
> looked bad
> and was too time consuming. They got a nice P-Touch label maker
> after that
> and it looks much more professional.
>
> Sorry, I got a little OT there.. LoL
>
> Don
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Kelvin Lee" kelvinlee@p...>
>
> Lighter Fluid (zippo , Ronson oil) ...
> naptha.
>
> The most important liquid ever invented for camera repair.
>
> It's the most commonly used cleaning fluid for most things and
> indispensable
> to any tinkerer.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Per Backman" pbackman@a...>
> To: "Camerafix" camera-fix@y...>
> Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 5:29 PM
> Subject: [camera-fix] Lighter fluid?
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > What do you mean by "lighter fluid"? Petroleum spirit? If so,
is that
> the
> same as Petroleum ether? (Benzinum, benzinum petrolei).
> >
> > Per B.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "readynames" readynames@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Lighter fluid?
--- In camera-fix@y..., Bob Shell bob@b...> wrote:
> Where do you get it these days? The only stuff I can find any more
> has damned silicon lubricant added. I used to use pure TFE in spray
> cans, but all my sources have dried up.
>
> I understand that it is a carcinogen.
>
> Bob
>
TFE is still being used as the solvent for Liquid Paper correction
fluid (or Tipp Ex solvent). You can buy this at stationery stores?
RN
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Tim Maxwell timmaxwell@chartertn.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Olympus XA top panel
I have not worked on an XA, but I have some experience with the XA-2 which
has the same body styling.
I assume you first removed the bottom plate so that you could carefully
remove the sliding lens cover/clam shell. There is a tab on the bottom of
the cover that slides in a grove between the base plate and the body. If
you have not already remove the cover, be VERY careful not to loose the
small metal cylinder that locks the cover open and closed. (I usually work
over a small container to catch it if it falls).
Also remove the top of the winding stem.
With the clamshell/cover and the top of the winding stem off there are 4
screws visible but only 3 need to removed. You need to remove the 2 screw
around the winding stem and the one that is on the back near the shutter
release. The screw hidden by the clamshell hold the a piece of metal to
apply pressure to the cylinder I warned about above. With these 3 screw
out the top pops off. I generally start lifting it off near the film
counter. The top plate can be a snug fit, so it may not "fall" right off,
but I've never had to use extreme force.
you wrote:
>Does anyone know how to remove the top plate on an Olympus
>XA - I've removed all visible screws but it seems to be resisting
>and I dont want to break it. If anyone knows a link to an xa repair
>manual that would be perfect.
>
>
>Thanks
Tim Maxwell
timmaxwell@chartertn.net
From: Marv Soloff msoloff@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Help! Optical cement and Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001
Bo H,ger+s wrote:
>
> I have bought (for 8 USD) an old Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar, 6.3:105/12:185
> convertible in a Synchro Compur shutter. The cemented lenses were separated
> in the back part.
> I have taken the lenses out and cleaned the old cement away using cloroform.
> Does anyone know where (in Europe) to find optical cement, two-component or
> even canada balsam in a small quantity.
>
> The shutter is a little unreliable too, at first it was all stuck, but after
> lubrication it is at least working again (not properly though).
>
> Before I go on working with it and spending money on it:
>
> Is the lense worth the effort and cost?
> Where can I find information about Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar,
> 6.3:105/12:185?
>
> What film format can it be used for?
>
> Does it give a picture big enough for 4x5 inches?
>
> Bo H,ger+s
> (Sweden)
You may want to try "Crystal Clear" glue - a UV cure glue for
re-cementing lens elements together from Fargo Enterprises/Micro-Tools
Part #81190, price $5.95USD. See page 102 of the Micro-Tools catalog at
http://www.micro-tools.com
Regards,
Marv
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Help! Optical cement and Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001
"Bo H,ger+s" svenstorp.himmer@telia.com> wrote:
>I have bought (for 8 USD) an old Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar, 6.3:105/12:185
>convertible in a Synchro Compur shutter. The cemented lenses were separated
>in the back part.
>I have taken the lenses out and cleaned the old cement away using cloroform.
>Does anyone know where (in Europe) to find optical cement, two-component or
>even canada balsam in a small quantity.
>
>The shutter is a little unreliable too, at first it was all stuck, but after
>lubrication it is at least working again (not properly though).
>
>Before I go on working with it and spending money on it:
>
>Is the lense worth the effort and cost?
>Where can I find information about Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar,
>6.3:105/12:185?
>
>What film format can it be used for?
>
>Does it give a picture big enough for 4x5 inches?
>
>Bo H,ger+s
>(Sweden)
I also saw your correction that this is an f/5.6 lens. The f/5.6
Symmar is a Plasamat type. You can tell the age of the lens from its
serial number, Schneider of America has a complete list of serial
numbers by year on their web site at http://www.schneideroptics.com
You may have to poke around a bit to find it.
The convertible version of this lens dates from about the mid 1950s
to about the 1970s when it was replaced with a non-convertible
version, but, essentially, the same design.
Almost certainly all of these lenses were cemented with synthetic
cement although it is barely possible that Schneider may have still
been using Canada Balsam for the earlier ones.
Good optical cement is available from Summers Optical, they have a
web site at: http://www.emsdiasum.com/
They make several type of cement. I've used the standard binary
cement which is cured in an oven at 130F. Although a small electric
oven is ideal a kitchen stove can be used successfully. I've cemented
a few lenses using this product. Summers also offers a solvent for
separating lenses cemented with synthetic cements, I recommend odering
it when you get the cement. Its not expensive in itself and an be
shipped for the same hazardous substance fee. This extra shipping fee
amounts to as much as the cement.
There is a good primer on lens cementing on the Summers site. Also,
Steve Grimes shows some techniques for cementing on his site at
http://www.skgrimes.com
For the most part its not hard to do. Don't worry too much about
centering. The elements are centered when manufactured by accurate
grinding of the edges. Where the elements to be cemented are of the
same diameter its necessary only to line up the edges.
Some lenses are more difficult to cement and should be left to a pro
but many can be done at home with little special equipment.
I have no idea of what this lens is worth, probably not enough to
justify sending it out for recementing.
Symmars are essentially wide field lenses with a coverage of around
75deg to 80deg for the complete lens. For 4x5 the required coverage is
about 72deg, so its just at the limit of coverage.
The rear elememt used alone has an image circle about equal to its
focal length at infinity focus so it will also just about make it for
4x5. Its image quality is acceptable for many uses but a good deal of
correction is lost when half a convertible lens is used. Optimum stop
for normal use for the whole lens is around f/22. For use on 4x5,
where its essentially a wide angle lens, you may have to stop it down
further for the corners to be sharp.
These are very good lenses, the best of breed at the time they were
made, and are still respectible although not up to the current
versions.
BTW, there was an earlier f/6.8 Symmar, a copy of the Dagor design.
I have no idea when the last one was made, probably the late 1940's
some time.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Turner-Reich convertible seperation.
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001
"cfitchet" redpeety@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have a nice Turner-Reich 25/19/12 convertible that has developed
>separation in the front cell. The rear cell is fine.
> Has anyone here taken one apart and re-cemented one successfully? The
>cell looks like it's swaged shut at the end, so I can't see anyway to
>disassemble it.
> Is there a way? Can I cut the metal to access the cell?
>
> Thanks,
> redd
>
I have probably the same lens. Mine is a late one made in Fairport,
New York. Older lenses were made in Rochester, N.Y.
Mine is mounted in spun-in or burnished cells. The rear of the cell
was originally a thin metal section which was burnished down in a
lathe to fix the glass in place.
Its not easy to get these things open again. Generally prying the
lip up will damgage it to the point where it can't be used again.
These cells are usually opened by machining off the lip and making a
new retaining cap for the back. I am not a skilled machinist so this
is more challenging to me than re-cementing the lens.
There are people who do this kind of work. Steve Grimes, who
occasionally posts here, is one, John van Stelten is another. Both
also recement lenses.
Now, this is an expensive job and may not be worth it for a T-R
lens. These are five element all cemented lenses so there are four
cemented surfaces to be done. Many T-R lenses were not centered very
well when made. Trying to recenter them after the fact is a mess and
really isn't very practical.
The cementing itself is the easy part. Modern synthetic cement is
easily available from Summers Optical. They make both binary and UV
curing cements. The original cement is Canada Balsam. The elements can
be separated by cooking them a little. While the traditional method is
to heat the lens in a pan I've found that putting them in water and
heating it works. At some point the cement melts and the elements fall
apart. Steve Grimes has a section on re-cementing on his web site and
Summers has a primer on cementing on theirs.
To be blunt, I'm not sure a T-R lens is good enough to justify the
cost of recementing although it might be an interesting project for
someone with some machine skills
Essentially, the T-R lens was intended to avoid the Zeiss patent for
the Convertible Protar by adding an element. Its performance both as a
combined lens and as single elements is inferior to the Protar despite
the extra element.
The original company went through a couple of mergers and
bankruptcies. A company was organized in the mid or late 1930's to
pick up the pieces and make some Gunlach lenses mainly to meet
military contracts. This is the Gundlach-Manhattan company in
Fairport. The original companies were all in Rochester. There are lots
of 12-19.7-25 inch T-R's around made to meet the military spec.,
probably for either the B&L; Convertible Protar or the Dagor.
If the elements are separating only at the edges, and the separation
does not extend too far into the lens, the performance will not be
seriously affected.
My T-R also shows somewhat worse edge staining of the cement in the
front cell, plus it shows some haziness which appear under a stong
mafnifier to be very small bubbles in one of the cement interfaces.
I don't know the explanation of this other than to suggest that the
front cell is likely to be exposed to more light and heat than the
rear cell.
I wish I had something more hopeful to tell you.
Steve Grimes has a web site at http://www.skgrimes.com
John van Stelten is at:
focalpt@ecentral.com
The Focal Point
John Van Stelten
1017 South Boulder Road
Suite E-1
Louisville, CO 80027-0027
Tel.- 303-665-6640
Fax - 303-665-3803
http://www.411web.com/F/FOCALPOINT/
I think there may be a newer URL for the web site.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Pat Mullen gator6@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Where to find shutter curtains and ribbons?
Zhang:
You can obtain curtain material from MicroTools, they have a couple of
different thicknesses. Shutter tapes largely depend upon the
application. I have rebuilt dozens of Contax II's and III's (the same tape
works in a Leica), and the material sold by MicroTools is too wide and
heavy. For those, I generally use Kiev tape, which can be found with some
hunting. You can also try ribbon material from a fabric store, though you
have to be very careful; most of it will not work properly. You'll need
something that is strong and will not fray nor streatch. I test material
by running it over the edge of a table top many times. If it holds up
okay, I install the material in a camera and operate the shutter a thousand
times or so. I then check and the tapes and, if okay, I consider the
material safe to use. Almost all of the fabric store material fails this
test in a Contax.
The prewar Contax shutter puts a lot of tension on the tapes, so you have
to be very careful with the material. Some of the fabric store stuff, not
suitable for a Contax, may work just fine in cameras with less mainspring
tension. You just have to test it and see how well it works. The
advantage to fabric store stuff is that it is cheap, almost free. Real
shutter tape (not the MicroTools junk) can be expensive, $30-$35 per yard.
you wrote:
>Hi group,
>
>Could anyone suggest where I can find cloth shutter curtains and
>tapes? The ribbons I can find are always thicker and wider and the
>colth curtain are also made of some special materials.What would you
>do if you have to replace them?
>
>
>Best Regards
>
>
>Zhang
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: Mark Overton mark@sdd.hp.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Getting Back to the Shutter Speed Tester - - - - -
Hi Henry,
> When I first started tinkering on old cameras I was fascinated with
> homemade test equipment and built every piece I read about.
Have you built this auto-collimator?:
http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm
Because of the baffles, it is optically better than Tomosy's, and thus
lets you gauge the quality of various lenses. I built it originally to
calibrate focus, and it does an outstanding job of that. But I find that
checking quality is my most frequent (and interesting) use of it.
> Those pages get relatively few hits in comparison to the manual pages.
Tomosy suggested that I put the auto-collimator into production, as
he has with his excellent shutter-speed tester (which I bought). But an
honest sales estimate would be one unit a month, making it hard to get
excited about the idea.
Cheers from another tinkerer,
Mark Overton
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "yupiter3" ccm952@bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Bessa R rangefinder adjustment method ??
***Here is a link I found on the adjustment method
http://www.pk67.com/xb/62.html
It is from: Anon E. Moose anon@dev.null.org
Philip
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Frank Earl" fbearl@h...> wrote:
> Yes, it was under warranty. But a nice little repair shop had just opened
> up and the repair man had a very good local reputation and I wanted to give
> him some business and develop a relationship.
>
> Thanks for the info on the lenses. I had been shooting the Jupiter 50/2 but
> wanted something wider. And I fell in love with the look and feel of the
> Nikkor lens, even though I paid almost as much as a new Skopar "pancake"
> 35/2.5 would have cost. I am still looking for a good 80-85mm lens and will
> keep an eye out for the Jupiter and Steinhill.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kelvin" kelvinlee@p...>
> To: camera-fix@y...>
> Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001
> Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Bessa R rangefinder adjustment method ??
>
>
> >
> > Hi there
> >
> > I'm sorry you didn't get an answer to your query. Frankly, given that
> > it's a new-ish Bessar R ... I think $50 is worth it, in lieu of any
> > danger of breaking your new machine.
> >
> > I'm however, surprised it needed a fix at all. Wasn't it under warranty?
> >
> > Just off-topic, but you can also look at soviet lenses e.g. Jupiter 50/2,
> > 50/1.5,135/4 etc. ... german lenses, steinheil 85/2.8, 135/4 etc....
> > all of which are very affordable (often under US$70 on ebay) and good.
> > However, your bessa will not take lenses with protruding elements e.g.
> > Jupiter 35/2.8 .
> >
> >
> > you wrote:
> > >I was the one who started that thread but I did not get any guidance and
> > >finally took it to a repairmen for a $50 fix. I had heard that the
> > >adjustment is accessible under the flash mount but the repairman said he
> had
> > >to disassemble the top cover to get at everything. He did a nice job.
> > >
> > >On a recent trip I found a 35mm f/2.5 W-Nikkor C in Leica TM (I blush at
> > >the price I paid, because I am usually a cheap person, but my lovely wife
> > >went halvers), a very small and thin lens that works very nicely on the
> > >Bessa-R. If you have a chance to find one at a price you like, you may
> wish
> > >to try it.
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "yupiter3" ccm952@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Bessa R rangefinder adjustment method ??
Here is another link on the adjustment; and yes it has warnings too!
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001NhD
Regards Philip 1/5/2002
In camera-fix@y..., "yupiter3" ccm952@b...> wrote:
> ***Here is a link I found on the adjustment method:
> http://www.pk67.com/xb/62.html
> It is from: Anon E. Moose anon@d...
> Philip
...
from rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002
From: Stephen Castello scastello@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: non-migrating lubricant????
http://www.micro-tools.com
Get the NyoGel 795A. I've used on a bunch of lenses so far and it makes
the focusing nice and smooth.
Stephen
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002
From: "srosenbach" srosenbach@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zorki-5/6 RF
Hello Allen!
Welcome to the madhouse! I just read Comrade Jim Blazik's reply to
your post, and everything he said is true. But I hope you ignore all
his warnings and jump into this madness with both feet (I'm sure he
does, too.)
If you haven't already, you should, right away, check out Nathan
Dayton's excellent "Communist Cameras" website at
http://www.commiecameras.com
Here's a shortcut to the part of the site about Soviet 35 mm
Rangefinders:
http://commiecameras.com/sov/35mmrangefindercameras/cameras/index.htm
You can see he has some good details about the Zorki 5 and 6 family,
as well as a lot of information about the entire line of Fed, Zorki
and Kiev 35mm rangefinder cameras (plus a lot more!).
IMHO, the Zorki 5(a) is one of the best-looking of all Soviet 35mm
rangefinders...if you get a clean one with nice chrome and engraving,
especially one with vulcanite (rather than ribbed nylon) covering and
with a lens *other* than the rigid 50mm Industar-50, preferably a
clean collapsible Industar-50.
Now, I'm just talking about looks, not operation. The rigid Industar-
50 is a great lens. On the other hand, the camera itself is a bottom
loader, somewhat harder to load than many of the other, later Zorkis
and Feds. Also, while Feds from the 3(a) land later have shutter
speeds of 1 - 1/500 and Zorki 3/3M/3C/4/4K family had shutter speeds
from 1sec to 1/1000, the Zorki 5's only have 1/25 to 1/500 and the
Zorki 6 1/30 to 1/500.
Of course, some might view this as a good thing - that is, the
shutter is simpler and less to go wrong, and who uses those dang slow
speeds and 1/1000 anyway.
The Zorki 5(b) is essentially the same camera as the 5(a), but not as
pretty - the front of the rangefinder housing front is just plain and
flat, and the nameplate is a chintzy little tacked-on thing rather
than the beautiful "Soviet Red" engraved logo of the 5(a).
The Zorki 6 looks just like the Zorki 5(b), but as Comrade Jim said,
it's has a hinged back - the only "classic" Zorki or Fed rangefinder
that has one.
As far as I know, the Zorki 5(a) and 5(b) were the first Soviet 35 mm
rangefinders to have "rapid wind" lever advance instead of knob wind.
This was in 1958, pre-dating the first lever wind Fed (the 3b) by 5
years. The only other Zorki to have a lever wind is the butt-ugly
Zorki 4K (that should get some reactions), first produced in 1972.
The Zorki 5's were the first try by KMZ at rapid-wind levers, sort of
a "beta", and some say that this is a weak spot for these cameras.
These sources also say that the problems were ironed out for the
Zorki 6. I'd be curious to hear from the members of the Forum if they
really have experienced lever wind problems with Z-5's.
One advantage of the Zorki 5 and 6 family is that they use the same
69-mm rangefinder base as the Fed 2. The longer rangefinder base
should theoretically result in more accurate focusing, particularly
with longer lenses. These two families of cameras had the longest-
based rangefinders in the Zorki and Fed families. Pre-war Feds used
38mm, same as the screw mount Leicas from the II to the IIIg. Most
post-war Feds and Zorkis, all the way until the end, used RF
baselines of 38 to 41 mm.
Although we joke a lot in the forum about "RARE!" cameras, the Zorki
5's are *relatively* rare, as Zorkis go. Only 125,000 Zorki 5(a)'s
were produced in 1958-59, and only 11,500 of the Zorki 5 (b)'s were
made for it's one year of production, 1959. Compare this to almost 2
million Fed 2's made from 1955-1970, over 2 million Fed 3's from 1961-
1980, and about 2.25 million Zorki 4 and 4K's made from 1956-1978.
So a measly 136,000 or so Zorki 5's made in a short period of only 2
years makes them a lot less common than most of the Soviet RF
cameras.
Despite their "rarity", Zorki 5(b)'s do not command a very high
price - you can usually find nice ones for under $50 on eBay - rare
to see one for $50 or more. The somewhat more plentiful Zorki 5(a)
usually goes for $60 or more in good shape. Zorki 6's (385,000 made
beween 1959-1966) in good shape go for $40 - $50 (these prices are
with a collapsible I-50 lens.)
I think if you have a feeling that you will like the Zorki 5/6, go
for it! If you're looking for a very practical shooter, I'd say go
for a Zorki 6 (easy to load) with an Industar-50 or even a Jupiter 8
lens. If you'd like better looks and don't mind bottom-loading and
are willing to spend a few more bucks, go for the Zorki 5(a).
If you get either one and end up liking it, you will eventually get
the others in the family. And then get a vulcanite one if you have
the nylon-cloth covered one. And them a Fed 3b. And then a Zorki 3...
and then... and then.... Jim's right... turn around and run away as
fast as you can! It's your only hope {g}
Best regards,
SteveR
Stephen Rosenbach
Arnold, MD
--- In russiancamera@y..., "Blackdog" blkdog@e...> wrote:
> Greetings!
> I just registered with this group a few days (weeks?) ago and have
been searching your previous threads on yahoogroups about the Zorki-
5/6 RF. Apparently I cant seem to find any topic on this model.
>
> Anybody here have this unit as part of their collection? What is
the general comment/feedback on this model(s)?
....
from rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002
From: "dante@umich.edu" dante@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: [RF List] Super Ikonta rangefinder adjustment
Yes. You need to move the wedge prisms in relation to one another until
the rangefinder is vertically aligned. You have to physically take apart
the arm and do this one tooth at a time. It will take about an hour Then
follow these directions to finish the horizontal alignment:
http://www.dantestella.com/technical/superfix.html
Before blowing any time on the vertical alignment issues, read the part of
this article that discusses what it could be. If it is not a botched
repair, your camera is dead. If so, even if you get the vertical to line
up, you could end up with bad rangefinding.
Dante
from rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002
From: "dante@umich.edu" dante@umich.edu
Subject: Re: [RF List] Super Ikonta rangefinder adjustment
One other thing: when you are adjusting the vertical, you are also moving
the wheel back and forth while looking at a horizontal line. In essence,
what is happening is that you are changing the 3slidey angle of the RF
image, hopefully to horizontal. True vertical alignment is not really
possible without monkeying with the beamsplitters inside the camera or
bending the arm/front standard - this angle adjustment is what passes for
it in most instances. They way you can tell that you are screwed is if
the image never lines up vertically, anywhere along its path.
Dante
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" rchiasson@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: "Manual" collimation of Zorki 1
Comrade Mike,
I must apologize for my harshness towards you. The gulag does get to me
sometimes.
You don't have to be absolute for a (small) personal collection. Just pick
the body / lens combination that works to your satisfaction, and make
everything else conform to it. Of course, new acquisitions would have to
re-educated. Recently, another comrade commented that the later equipment
seems to be properly adjusted at the factory, and my officially imported
by Dorso Optics Zorki 4 with 50 mm and 85 mm Jupiters worked without
problems - until some smartass threw away that "paper gasket" while poking
around where he shouldn't have been. That's when the Zorki became a camera
repair student practice camera (and the Jupiter-9's lens head came to live
on a Fujica in a Pentax variable close-up ring).
The body need not be totally dedicated to focus alignment. I have seen
(somewhere) a photo of a Leica with about a 1/2" hole in the rear casting
wall that was covered by what appears to a black plastic cap. The caption
said something about this being common (for repaired Leicas). By removing
this cap, and replacing the pressure plate (temporarily) with a ground
glass that sits in the film channel, you can check the focus at the film
plane! Given that these body casting are aluminum, the hole could be cut
with a capitalist MotoTool, or even hand tools such as a jeweler's saw and
filed smooth (not that a comrade loyal to the Revolution would know
anything about jewelry).
As for the cap, a piece of hobby shop brass sheet painted flat black and
Pliobonded to the inside of the casting (not so big as to interfere with
the pressure plate) would solve the light leak issue. Cosmetically, the
outside should have, well, a black plastic cap. If you had some sort of
lens cap or whatever with the manufacturer's symbol on it to make the cap
out of, so much the better.
I like this idea, I'll have to patent it and sell it for immoral
capitalist profit!
------
Robert
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002
From: "tigerarm2000" tigerarm2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fed 5 rangefineder vertical alignment adjustment
...
I have all the Fed 5 models and they are the same with nameplates.
With the camera facing you and push the name plate toward the
selenium side then you can pop it off. I think by now you have
already done that. And rorate the small round window you can adjust
the verticle alignment.
Zhang
from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002
From: "tigerarm2000" tigerarm2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fed 5 rangefineder vertical alignment adjustment
...
> Hi Zhang! Do you mean the _whole_ rectangular assembly
> that encompasses/surrounds the viewfinder through the
> meter cell window?
>
> Brad
>
> __________________________________________________
Hi Brad,
Sorry I didn't explain it clearer.
No, I mean the thin metal plate either black or chrom with the
cameras's name on it.Maybe You should push harder toward the left
with the camera facing you? There is a small leaf spring on the left
side of the thin metal plate.Make sure you don't lose it.
Zhang
From minolta mailing list:
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001
From: dankle@aol.com
Subject: Re: Battery Leak!!
jstaff47@earthlink.net writes:
> Have a problem with a camera that was left in FL over the summer.
> Batteries leaked! Any suggestions for cleaning the area? Seems that
> someone had suggested using alcohol on a q tip. Thanks for you help,
> joe
After gently scaping off what I could with a small screwdriver blade, I've
always used a paste of baking soda and water to finish up. They were just
talking about this on the ebay photo board, and someone reported good luck
using ammonia.
Dan
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001
From: Tim Maxwell timmaxwell@chartertn.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Leak!!
Vinegar works well for this. Duracell recommend it to me when I had a set
of their batteries explode in a Mag-Lite flashlight. I have since used it
successfully on camera battery compartments. Try it on a q-tip first. For
really bad chambers (had one corroded shut) you may have to do some
disassembly and soak some of the parts.
you wrote:
>Have a problem with a camera that was left in FL over the summer.
>Batteries leaked! Any suggestions for cleaning the area? Seems that
>someone had suggested using alcohol on a q tip. Thanks for you help,
>joe
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001
From: "Smitty.." jschmidt@uslink.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Leak!!
Vinegar would work if you had leakage from a alkaline cell as the acetic
acid would neutralize the alkaline chemicals. However to neutralize
corrosion from a battery containing acid I think I would use a mixture of
water and baking soda rather than adding more acid???
Smitty
From minolta mailing list:
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Collimator
For those who are interested in how a collimator works and how to build one,
check out the URL's below. Thomas Tomosy's Camera Maintenance and Repair, Vol
I also has construction plans for a simple but accurate collimator.
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/collimator.html
http://idccdata.members.easyspace.com/Mark/collimator.htm
Roland F. Harriston
From nikon mf mailing list:
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001
From: wdshpbiz@aol.com
Subject: Re: Recementing "Leather"
I use rubber cement to good effect. I find contact cement is too
permanent. The industry standard is a product called Pliobond, which is
available from Fargo and Cam-Comp, but I have never personally used it.
There is also a double-sided tape that Fargo sells for this purpose, but I
haven't tried that either.
William Sampson
http://hometown.aol.com/wdshpbiz/AImod.html
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: BSHOREDIST@aol.com
To: rmonagha@mail.smu.edu
Subject: re: Bellows leather treatment and Lexsol/neatsfoot oil usage
I sell a product called Chelsea Leather Food (see www.chelsealeatherfood.com
for more information). After reading some of the postings on how to treat or
preserve bellows, I believe that Chelsea Leather Food would be MUCH better
suited for the purpose then Lexsol, neatsfoot oil and/or (sheesh) ArmorAll.
If you know of any retailer that might be interested in Chelsea Leather Food,
please be kind enough to send me their information and I would be happy to
send them a free sample. If you have any questions or comments, please feel
free to call me toll free.
Thanks in Advance,
Dave McNiff
Bayshore Distribution
toll free - 877-422-9746