From Leica SLR Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999
From: JIB jbuf@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: chrome cleaning

When I worked in a camera store that specialzed in used stuff, I routinely cleaned the chrome cameras with a gum eraser, a pencil eraser will work but it can be to abreasive. Make sure that you do not let the little peices of eraser lay of the camera, it can work its way into little cracks and crevices. And gum up the works. For black cameras, use either trichhloro-ethane 111, lighter fluid, or Edwals negative cleaner. The trick with using these is a little on a clean cloth, and wipe the camera down, they dry very quickly. you must use these where you have plently of ventilation.

The best lens cleaner I have ever used is ROR, This product works so well that we would demonstrate it by taking a light meter reading, writing it down, and then cleaning front and rear of the filter, and then front and rear of the lens. We would take another reading and it show between a 1 to 2 stop increase in light transmission. The trick with using ROR is to use it sparingly. A 1 oz bottle has lasted me for years.

HTH
John

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000
From: DKTEAT@aol.com
To: bronica@topica.com
Subject: [BRONICA] Folks Looking for a FLAT flat black paint

As many of you know I have been making lens hacking adapters and reversing rings for the Bronica S2 & S2a (along with other models using the 57X1mm threaded helicoil focus mount). By the way still have a couple of each left at $35 ea. + $5 for S&H; in the US.

I have been searching for a a real flat black paint to use in painting these and up until just recently found that most "flat" blacks were more of a satin rather than flat. I had suggested folks line, as I have, the adapters with black construction paper to eliminate light scatter. Well, good news, I just ran across a flat black from Kylon that looks like it will fit the bill. It is their Camo paint, comes in a spray can and is advertised as Ultra Flat Non-Reflective. It comes in the standard camo colors, Green, Brown, Tan and BLACK!

I have done a couple of adapters with it and it seems to do the trick just fine.... Give it a try....

....

Don
Dkteat@aol.com

From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999
From: MartyJ8846@aol.com
Subject: [Rollei] Touch-up paint

Over the past few months there has been extensive discussions here about what paint to use for touchup, I have tried almost all of them and found them to be lacking (IMHO) in one way or another. The objective is to find something with the correct degree of gloss to match the factory paint, that can be applied without leaving brush marks, and that has some degree of permanence. So after experimenting with black nail polish, paint from Fargo enterprises, felt tip pens, automotive touch-up paint, etc, I came up with the following system, which produced excellent results, even on a large area.

If you want to try it, you will need the following:

Testor's (or similar) Flat Black enamel--available in hobby shops in 1/4 oz bottles--about $1 each

Testor's Gloss Enamel

A good artist's oil painting brush, size 4 or 6 --around $4 in an art supply store (avoid cheap brushes -- they tend to leave brush marks)

Paint thinner (mineral spirits--not lacquer thinner)

Small container for mixing -- small pill bottle, vial, or plastic 35 mm film container

600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

The gloss paint by itself is generally too glossy, so first pour a little into a container and then add a a small amount of the flat paint. Mix thoroughly and apply to a test area--either an old clunker you have sitting around, or a smooth piece of metal---the top or bottom of a steel or aluminum can will work. Allow it to dry for about 5 minutes to see if it has the correct gloss. If not, adjust the mixture until it does. You will probably have to add a little thinner--the paint should be thick enough to cover, but not so thick that it leaves a dividing line. If it is too thick it will leave brush marks.Try to have as little paint on the brush as you can, and you will avoid a "lumpy" finish. Start in the middle of the area you want to paint and feather it out to the edge. Allow to dry for about 5 minutes. If you don't like what you have done, it can be wiped off at this point with a paper towel moistened with paint thinner. Otherwise, if it dries to a hard state, you will have to sand it with the 600 wet sandpaper.

Any enamel will probably work ok. Automotive lacquer and nail polish dry much too fast and as a result, always seem to leave brush marks and a lumpy appearance.

It is virtually impossible to duplicate the sprayed factory paint, but, I have found that this will come very close.

Good luck,

Marty Jacobson

From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999
From: Stanley E Yoder syoder+@andrew.cmu.edu
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Touch-up paint

The Testors paints are also available as paint pens, both glossy and flat. The tips are felt and chisel-shaped, about 1/4" wide. While called 'markers', they are real paint, presumably the same stuff as in the little bottles. I find them useful for doing edges and filling small dings.

Also useful, IMHO, is automotive clear-coat touchup, applied over repaint. I roll it on with a Q-tip - wiping tends to remove the paint.

Stan Yoder

Pittsburgh

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999
From: MartyJ8846@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Touch-up paint

syoder+@andrew.cmu.edu writes:

The Testors paints are also available as paint pens, both glossy and flat. The tips are felt and chisel-shaped, about 1/4" wide. While called 'markers', they are real paint, presumably the same stuff as in the little bottles. I find them useful for doing edges and filling small dings.

There is nothing really wrong with pens, as long as you find one with the correct degree of gloss and you confine the use to a small area---they do produce a nice smooth finish. However, I have found that the layer is quite thin, and if the area is subject to any wear, it will rub off sooner than with a brushed on enamel.

Marty

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999
From: Jay Kumarasamy jayk@cisco.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Touch-up paint

I have tried some felt pens like Scripto, etc, that says Permanent Marker But they are not really permanent. For instance, if you use armor-all, the 'Permanent Marker' will come off. I use armor-all, on Leica vulcanite and they do wonders. Keeps the vulcanite supple..

- Jay

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999
From: Dan Post dwpost@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Touch-up paint

Group-

I have used the Fargo Enterprises enamal with great success, and found that moderating the gloss was easy with the automotive 'rubbing' and 'polishing' compounds that one uses to remove oxidised paint from an automobile finish.

Since it is a cream, it doesn't produce dust in the process, as will sandpaper. I use a tiny dab on a cotton swab, or for accessible areas, or longer straight edeges, a dampened cloth. It not only knocks some of the shine off the glossy enamel, it helps feather the edge to make it smoother so the 'patch' is less noticable. The excess can be removed with a damp cotton swab, and an old soft toothbrush (if it gets into the area next to the leather).

Once the enamel has 'cured' or hardened- a light coat of paste wax adds some protection, especially from handling your treasure with nasty ole sweaty hands! :o}~

I diluted about 5g or good quality paste wax in 2 oz. (60ml) of low odor mineral spirits- I use this on the leather ( even belts and shoes -except suede. It seems to penetrate better than the paste wax alone.) and the painted areas to put a thin protective finish on the camera. I have used this for years and it seems to work well, and there is no noticiable yellow waxy buildup!

I used to used Pledge furniture polish- but the new 'wax-free' formula apparently has too much water, and I have gone totally to the diluted paste wax formula.

From Rollei Mailing LIst;
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999
From: Mamiya645@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Rollei] new rollei purchase

a.calciu@anent.com writes:

> does anyone know of a method of removing the paint touch-ups from the
>  rollei? obviously the paint was not baked on so i am thinking there
>  must be some solvent out there that will remove this paint, but not
>  the underlying original finish.

Try naphtha.

R. J. Bender (A Nikon, Mamiya and Rollei user. )
mailto:rjbender@apci.net or
mailto:Mamiya645@aol.com

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000
From: ajacobs2 ajacobs2@tampabay.rr.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Refinishing Black Cameras

Or any Hobby store that sells Tamiya paints or Revell kits. But if you want the parts restored there is a fellow in Japan, quite well known for his work on Leicas that offers some tips on the subject.

Here is his website: http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Oracle/5799/shintaro.htm

Dick Weld wrote:

> You can also buy felt-tip black paint pens in both glossy and flat at gun shops.
>
> Dick Weld
>
> photo35744 wrote:
> >
> > Yes, you can order from Sinclair International a black pen that can be used
> > to touch up black anodized surfaces on cameras and firearms.  The item # is
> > 02-15102 cost is $4.50 peer pen.  Sinclair can be reached at www.sinclairinti.com 

update: thanks to folks at HGM Engineering for supplying this updated URL:

http://www.sinclairintl.com/

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000
From: "photo35744" photo35744@earthlink.net
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Refinishing Black Cameras

"Such a Deal" clowe@dalsemi.com wrote

> Does anyone know whether black cameras (such as a black Hasselblad)
> can have the black refinished with any degree of success???

Yes, you can order from Sinclair International a black pen that can be used to touch up black anodized surfaces on cameras and firearms. The item # is 02-15102 cost is $4.50 peer pen. Sinclair can be reached at www.sinclairintl.com or you can call them at 1-219-493-1858

[Ed. note: thanks to HGM Engineering for updated URL used above!...]

From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 31-May-2001
From: Peter Holmes foole@onlinemac.com
Subject: RE: Minolta Hi-matic 7s

Wee Ling Lieu wrote:

> Hi Peter,
>
> Could you share with us on how you do the painting job on your 35RC.  I
> like
> to paint some of my old cameras, but had not been successful yet.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Lieu

> > Oh, and the Oly 35RC is a great little camera!  Mine had so much  marring
> > & dinging on the chrome that I experimented a bit and was able to put  a
> > smooth, tough black paint job on it.  Now it's my "Sleek Black  Beauty."
> > Wonderful little pocket camera.
> >
> > Peter

Lieu -

Nothing to do with black paint, but, in an earlier note in this thread, Jeffrey gave some excellent advice to us all to maybe do some research before jumping into some possibly expensive hobby with both feet.

The 35 RC has the soft satiny Japanese chrome finish of 25-40 years ago. I don't think I'd even try to paint the very hard, shiny European chrome of that era. So:

1)I didn't attempt to paint any shiny hard chrome parts. (Rewind knob, etc). Remove top & bottom covers of the camera for painting. Maybe you can mask them, but I wouldn't spray paint at a working camera ;-)

2) Take _all_ the glass out of the VF/RF windows. Use some kind of flexible adhesive to replace them after the job.

3) Remove accessory shoe (put a bit of masking tape over small connections you don't want painted)- maybe you can paint it too.

4) Scuff up everything that's left (what you plan to paint) with #600 or so emery cloth. I didn't use a paint primer, but it may have made a better job - your experiment :-)

5) For the paint, I used a semi-gloss polyurethane enamel in a rattle (spray) can. You can purchase at a hardware store or even some model airplane paints (Formula U & Black Baron, I think) are polyurethane. It's pretty cheap, but if applied right and allowed to dry a long time (a week is good - longer is better) it is tenacious stuff. It also doesn't seem to mar as easily as "real" camera paints.

6) Apply in _Very, Very_ thin coats - in dry sunny weather you can do a couple coats an hour. Make a "paint booth" of paper or cardboard to keep the wind, dust, twigs, etc off your work. Don't get so anxious that too much paint gets on your work and starts to run. Then you wipe with paint thinner and try it again.

7) Then dry, dry, dry - it seems to cure over a couple weeks. If you have an old piece of similar material, try that first and make all the mistakes there whilst you're learning.

Have a good time!

Peter

From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001
From: Richard Urmonas rurmonas@senet.com.au
Subject: Re: [RF List] Painting (Restoring Lettering)

> After the black finish is applied, does anyone have a "professional"  looking
> method of restoring the legend, badge, logo, or whatever you choose to  call
> it.

Fortunately the older cameras we are talking about generally have engraved markings. I have seen engraved lettering filled. They use a thick paint, it looked to be about as thick as artists paint. This is wiped into the engraved depressions, any excess cleaned up and then the paint dried. If there is extensive lettering this is done in several stages so that partly dried paint is not accidentally disturbed. If several colours are used the paint is dried between each colour so no accidental mixing occurs.

Richard.

From rangefinder mailing list;
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001
From: "Mark PEARCE" top@tdstelme.net
Subject: Re: [RF List] Painting (Restoring Lettering)

Try a white china marking pencil. That's what I used on my 'black' SP-1000 about 20 years ago.

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: rolohar@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001
Subject: Re: [RF List] Painting (Restoring Lettering)

> After the black finish is applied, does anyone have a "professional" looking
> method of restoring the legend, badge, logo, or whatever you choose to call
> it, which was formerly in black lettering, usually on the front and top   of
> the camera. Of course, now that the camera is essentially black, one  would
> like to have this lettering in white.
>
> Any suggestions or experiences?
>
> Roland F. Harriston

From Minolta Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001
From: Emmanouil Skoufos eskoufos@yahoo.com
Subject: Black Paint Cover Up

Hi Jos,

There are several ways to cover black paint marks. The easiert is to use a black permanent marker with a good size tip. This might be adequate for small areas.

What I do for my black collectable cameras (not the users-see below) is to use acrylic-based restoration paint (similar to the paint that is used for metal models and pretty close to the original paint) in the exact hue of black of the camera. I clean the area carefully with a Q-tip with water, followed by a Q tip with alcohol, let it dry, and apply the paint it with a small medium-hard brush. This takes time, but it is the best way if you want to restore a collectible camera (btw. before that is done, the camera usually has a CLA and always and external cleaning.) I have heart of people using nail polish, car touch up paint, etc, but I am afraid that the chemicals will harm the camera.

For my work I use almost exclusively black X-700s made in Japan and a single black Pxxxxx. They all have rubmarks and the metal shows in several places, I find it charming and I do not bother to do anything with it, knowing that in 3-4 months, whatever I did needs to be redone because the rubmarks will reappear from the use.

I hope this helps.

Emmanouil

--- Jos oscar.reina@upcnet.es wrote:

> Hi everybody !
>
> I purchased yesterday a used black SRT 303b body for
> $120. The body itself is used but in good condition,
> meter, shutter, advance, self-timer, all is working
> ok. Also the store gave me a warranty of 6 months,
> the camera is fully revised and even with a full
> battery. I would like to know how much they are
> priced, and if i did a good buy. BTW, does anyone
> know the best way to cover the black brassed paint,
> it's only a cosmetical issue but it would be
> interesting to know :)

Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000
From: dickburk@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: ~What glue for letherette covering?

r xmaldoror@crosswinds.net wrote:

>Hi, I'm sure many of you have had to peel back the covering on your
>cameras to access some screws & such.  Here's the question - what glue
>to use to stick it back on?  Contact cement seems fine, but leave the
>camera in a hot car...  Stronger glues would work well, but what if I
>need to get at the guts *again*?  I'm planning on selling one of my
>cameras, which is in perfect condition, other than the above mentioned
>dilemma, I don't want to use an "irreversible" glue, and make an
>enemy...  Any ideas?

AFAIK, the cement originally used is thin lacquer thinned with alcohol. Contact cement works but is really too strong. Rubber cement, often suggested, will corrode metal parts under the covering

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com

From Minolta Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001
From: "James Jones" jaj01@home.com
Subject: Re: Black Paint Cover Up

--- In ManualMinolta@y..., "Jos" oscar.reina@u... wrote:

> >
> >I would NOT recommend this!

Around 1973 Modern Photography had an article on fixing up brassy black camera bodies. They removed the top cover from a camera and using automotive paint sprayed it and baked in a toaster oven. The results looked very good and they said that the baked-on finish was very durable. They even took an old chrome Contax and turned it into a black body.

But be careful, a lot of camera bodies that look like metal are not. You can be pretty sure an old SR-T has a top cover made of brass, but the newer models like the X-700 may not. "But wait", you say, "My black Minolta X-whatever has brass showing at the strap lugs!" That may be, but many modern cameras have plastic top covers that are coated with a thin layer of brass or copper before the final top coat is applied. I must assume that the brass or copper layer is there to shield the electronic circuitry. You wouldn't want to bake one of those in an oven!

From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001
From: helleboreuk@yahoo.co.uk
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Bellows light leak

--- In camera-fix@y..., Austin Lindsey alindsey@c... wrote:

> What can I use to seal a few pinhole leaks in a bellows.  I have tried
> black fingernail polish recommened by a local camera repair shop.  I
> didn't do the job.  I am begininng to wonder if they really told me
> the way THEY fix light leaks.
>
> Thanks
>
> Austin Lindsey

One substance worth trying is black Gutta, sold in small tubes for use by silk painters. It is a thick rubbery liquid that dries to form a flexible coating that bonds well with fabric.

Peter

To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at bigpond.com
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 
Subject: [camera-fix] Black paint for bodies

Hi Guys,

A quick one - a perfect paint for the black bits on cameras (where 
able to be sprayed) is a car engine paint - 'VHT' brand in GM Satin 
Black.  It gives the factory look - not too glossy, just right.  
Better still, I baked the bits in the oven for an hour (optional) and 
it came out like baked enamel.  Excellent.

Mark Stuart


To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: flexaret@sprynet.com
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Black paint for bodies

When one needs black paint for camera touchup and wants to do less than an
elaborate job of spraying and baking - note this-

Get some various types of Black Nail polish.

Good samples of this (can be the cheapest ones) dry without brush marks and
leave a hard chip-proof finish.

I touched up the brassy sections of a Minolta XE-7 several years ago and
they have not chipped.

Get some of this color nail polish while this weird style is still in vogue.

- Sam Sherman


----------
From: Mike Steele ganderfive@yahoo.com>
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Black paint for bodies
Date: Sun, Nov 4, 2001, 10:00 AM


Hi Mark, You lost me on this one, by "bits" are you
talking about only the focus ring? You mask off the
lens, spray it, then put it in the oven? What
temperature and how long? Thanks!  Mike Steele

--- Mark Stuart madfamily at bigpond.com wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> 
> A quick one - a perfect paint for the black bits on
> cameras (where 
> able to be sprayed) is a car engine paint - 'VHT'
> brand in GM Satin 
> Black.  It gives the factory look - not too glossy,
> just right.  
> Better still, I baked the bits in the oven for an
> hour (optional) and 
> it came out like baked enamel.  Excellent.
> 
> Mark Stuart

To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at bigpond.com
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Black paint for bodies

Mike, no I meant the camera body.  I had an SP-F back off which was 
quite scratched - in fact it almost had no paint on it.  Just removed 
the leatherette, sprayed the paint, baked it for an hour at about 60 
degrees C and it comes out unbelievably hard and solvent proof, with 
a factory look finish you can't get with ordinary paints.  The 
leatherette is replaced with water soluble contact cement (only 
because it cleans up better than the solvent type).

I understand this could be difficult with the other black painted 
bits - but it's useful for those bits that are removeable.

For those brave souls who want to convert an 'experimental' chromey 
to a black body, this is definitely the way  :-)

I understand this could be difficult with the other black painted 
bits - but it's useful for those bits that are removeable.  I suppose 
the more attached parts could be touched up with the same stuff 
sprayed into a pot, but of course you couldn't bake it.

Note I had previous experience with the paint on car (auto) parts 
where I'd 'baked' them - on a barbecue !  So I knew what to expect.

Even though they call it satin black, it's more of a 'dullish gloss'.

Mark


--- In camera-fix@y..., Mike Steele ganderfive@y...> wrote:
> Hi Mark, You lost me on this one, by "bits" are you
> talking about only the focus ring? You mask off the
> lens, spray it, then put it in the oven? What
> temperature and how long? Thanks!  Mike Steele
> 
> --- Mark Stuart madfamily at b... wrote:
> > Hi Guys,
> > 
> > A quick one - a perfect paint for the black bits on
> > cameras (where 
> > able to be sprayed) is a car engine paint - 'VHT'
> > brand in GM Satin 
> > Black.  It gives the factory look - not too glossy,
> > just right.  
> > Better still, I baked the bits in the oven for an
> > hour (optional) and 
> > it came out like baked enamel.  Excellent.
> > 
> > Mark Stuart

To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at bigpond.com
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Black paint for bodies

Hi Kelvin,

Yep, in a regular oven.  Just place it on aluminium foil on a tray.  
There is a FAINT trace of smell left, but fifteen minutes at 250C 
removes this completely.

To clarify the procedure - clean up the part with fine carborundum 
paper if needed.  Clean with solvent (the beloved lighter fluid, or 
methylated spirit/denatured alcohol).  Paint a lightish coat, then a 
second coat twenty minutes later as per instructions on can.  Then a 
third coat, just enough to leave a very shiny gloss on the surface. 
This is the point where the paint's almost running, heavier than the 
first two.  Leave to touch dry (thirty minutes).  THEN bake.

Cheers

M

--- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> Did you bake it at 60 deg. in an oven? Is it safe i.e. will it  contaminate
> the
> oven thereafter and render it no good for regular baking?
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Stuart" madfamily at b...
> To: camera-fix@y...>
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 4:21 PM
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Black paint for bodies
> 
> 
> > Mike, no I meant the camera body.  I had an SP-F back off which  was
> > quite scratched - in fact it almost had no paint on it.  Just  removed
> > the leatherette, sprayed the paint, baked it for an hour at about  60
> > degrees C and it comes out unbelievably hard and solvent proof,  with
> > a factory look finish you can't get with ordinary paints.  The
> > leatherette is replaced with water soluble contact cement (only
> > because it cleans up better than the solvent type).
> >
> > I understand this could be difficult with the other black painted
> > bits - but it's useful for those bits that are removeable.
> >
> > For those brave souls who want to convert an 'experimental'  chromey
> > to a black body, this is definitely the way  :-)
> >
> > I understand this could be difficult with the other black painted
> > bits - but it's useful for those bits that are removeable.  I  suppose
> > the more attached parts could be touched up with the same stuff
> > sprayed into a pot, but of course you couldn't bake it.
> >
> > Note I had previous experience with the paint on car (auto) parts
> > where I'd 'baked' them - on a barbecue !  So I knew what to  expect.
> >
> > Even though they call it satin black, it's more of a 'dullish gloss'.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > --- In camera-fix@y..., Mike Steele ganderfive@y...> wrote:
> > > Hi Mark, You lost me on this one, by "bits" are you
> > > talking about only the focus ring? You mask off the
> > > lens, spray it, then put it in the oven? What
> > > temperature and how long? Thanks!  Mike Steele
> > >
> > > --- Mark Stuart madfamily at b... wrote:
> > > > Hi Guys,
> > > >
> > > > A quick one - a perfect paint for the black bits on
> > > > cameras (where
> > > > able to be sprayed) is a car engine paint - 'VHT'
> > > > brand in GM Satin
> > > > Black.  It gives the factory look - not too glossy,
> > > > just right.
> > > > Better still, I baked the bits in the oven for an
> > > > hour (optional) and
> > > > it came out like baked enamel.  Excellent.
> > > >
> > > > Mark Stuart


To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
From: camfix@webtv.net
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Painting lenses

Hi Kelvin;

       The India Ink (Bob Monahan) sounds like the way to go. I "patched" a 200MM lens a long time ago with black fingernail polish don't know if they still make it but the only thing that removes it is Acetone. I have used and cleaned the lens a lot. It's been a long time and looks ok. This was quick fix at the time so I can not recomend it to everyone.


From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 
From: "yupiter3" ccm952@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

Felix;
   Around 1972 to 1974 either Modern Photography or Popular
Photography magazine had an article on painting cameras black.......
(It was not in Petersons Photographic magazine; which was a quarterly
when it first came out)...

    The article described removing the chrome metal parts and placing
them in a bath... Electricty was used to remove the chrome; with
alligator clips holding the metal parts during the dechroming
process......It was DC current... After the dechroming; the parts
were spray painted and baked in an oven.......... Maybe Bob Shell
remembers what issue the dechroming/black painting article was
in......The chrome was removed because the black paint doesnt like to
stick to chrome very  well.... A friend in 1973 painted his Practica
SLR all black; without removing the chrome ....In short order it
looked horrible!!   

-regards Philip


From russian camera mailing list:
   Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 
   From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

yupiter3 at ccm952@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Maybe Bob Shell
> remembers what issue the dechroming/black painting article was
> in....


He remembers the article but not when it came out.  You just reverse
the polarity on a simple electroplating setup so the chrome is removed
rather than deposited.

Yes, this must be done or paint won't stick.

Bob


From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

Philip:

I remember that article! It was more of a "This is how
it's done." rather than a 'This is how YOU can do it."
article.

The following URL is to an article (see Chap. 4) about
why the first Nikons were painted black. I presume
that earlier all-black cameras like the Luftwaffe
Leicas were black for the same reason.

http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/d-archives/camera/history_e.htm#camera2.0

-Paul
...




From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002
From: "yupiter3" ccm952@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

Felix;

   Around 1972 to 1974 either Modern Photography or Popular
Photography magazine had an article on painting cameras black.......
(It was not in Petersons Photographic magazine; which was a quarterly
when it first came out)...

    The article described removing the chrome metal parts and placing
them in a bath... Electricty was used to remove the chrome; with
alligator clips holding the metal parts during the dechroming
process......It was DC current... After the dechroming; the parts
were spray painted and baked in an oven.......... Maybe Bob Shell
remembers what issue the dechroming/black painting article was
in......The chrome was removed because the black paint doesnt like to
stick to chrome very  well.... A friend in 1973 painted his Practica

SLR all black; without removing the chrome ....In short order it
looked horrible!!

-regards Philip




From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002
From: Bob Shell bob@bobshell.com
Subject: Re: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

yupiter3 at ccm952@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Maybe Bob Shell
> remembers what issue the dechroming/black painting article was
> in....


He remembers the article but not when it came out.  You just reverse
the polarity on a simple electroplating setup so the chrome is removed
rather than deposited.

Yes, this must be done or paint won't stick.

Bob



From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa pshinkaw@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Auction cancellation; Black Paint

Philip:

I remember that article! It was more of a "This is how
it's done." rather than a 'This is how YOU can do it."
article.

The following URL is to an article (see Chap. 4) about
why the first Nikons were painted black. I presume
that earlier all-black cameras like the Luftwaffe
Leicas were black for the same reason.

http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/d-archives/camera/history_e.htm#camera2.0

-Paul
...



From Leica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 
From: Jim Brick jim@brick.org
Subject: [Leica] Re:  The hardest finish for M

Jeffery L. Smith wrote:
>I don't have the answer to that, but have been curious about some of the
>black paint finishes I have seen lately on the LUG. Does the fellow who
>does the black paint finishes paint OVER the vulcanite on the M series? If
>so, the finish would be of little use if the vulcanite separated from the
>camera body. I just saw an obscenely expensive olive green Leica on ebay,
>and it appeared to be green paint over vulcanite as well.
>
>Jeffery Smith

Shintaro disassembles the camera, un-plates whatever plating is currently
on the camera, cleans it up, smooths it out, and paints it black, and
reassembles it. The full package includes new vulcanite (or the current
equivalent.) With the full package, you end up with a new looking camera in
every way.

Jim


From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Fri,  3 May 2002 
From: Matthew Phillips mlphilli@hsc.vcu.edu
Subject: RE: Camera Cosmetics

Robert  Vuillemenot wrote:
> I have several cameras that need some minor cosmetic work.  They have
> black
> paint in the engraved areas on the top plate and back that is either
> incomplete or missing completely.  I'm looking for a simple technique to
> replace the paint...

Porter's catalogue carries a lacquer stick used for this purpose:
they're rubbed over the engraved areas and the surface excess is then
rubbed off. Once dry, the filled area becomes hard and smooth. Available
in black and white, around $6 if I remember correctly.

M.Phillips



From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 
From: Douglas Sharp DMSharp@hannover.westerngeco.slb.com
Subject: Re: [RF List] Camera Cosmetics

...

There is a marker pen with a fine metal tube on the end made by Edding
it uses a special black paint which etches into the metal surface on contact.

I've used this often to touch up old camera bodies.

The silver paint version is also good.

Douglas


From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 
From: Rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: [RF List] Camera Cosmetics

...

The material to use is called Lacquer-Stik.
Availabe from several sources.

Porter's Camera Store is one.
Porter #62-0141 White $2.75
       #62-0142 Black $2.75
       #62-0174 1 each white & black $4.75

www.porters.com
1-800-553-2001

In a pinch, I have used a black Crayola crayon and a black china marking
pencil (grease pencil)
but the Lacquer-Stiks are better.

Roland F. Harriston


Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 
From: Polak187@aol.com
Subject: Re: [RF List] Painting RF's

No a pro job but it worked fine:

http://brunerdog.tripod.com/canonproject.html

> ... has anyone ever painted their own camera?
>
>
> I'd love to know more about the process of repainting a camera myself. I
> know the chrome is stripped(I've heard 'sand-blasted'?), but what kind of
> paint and temps are used to bake it properly? Anyone have experience or
> know of any publications?
>
> Thanks,Andrew


Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 
From: ERNReed@aol.com
Subject: Re: [RF List] Painting RF's

...

What a coincidence! This one's mine:

http://members.aol.com/greenfalc1/canonet.jpg

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed


From rangefinder mailing list:
From: lindsay melwin [mailto:lindsaymelwin@hotmail.com]
Date: Wednesday, July 24, 
Subject: RE: [RF List] Painting RF's

Take a look at :

http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/black.html


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 
From: Stephen Castello scastello@cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: Leica

 "Martin Trucco" martintrucco@tutopia.com wrote:
>    Does anybody know about how to imitate Leica black finish for
>retouching?
>It seems more like anodized or fire weapons finish than a paint. Any clues?
>
>Thanks
>
>Martin

http://www.micro-tools.com has something called 'Brass Black Metal Touch-Up'
under restoration supplies.  It may be what you're looking for.

Stephen


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 
From: "rick_oleson" rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Can you gret brass to tarnish again quickly?

I use stuff called "brass black" that i buy from micro-tools.  it
works very well as long as the brass surface isn't oxidized... you
may have to buff it lightly to remove the slight existing tarnish so
the chemical can work.  i use it to subdue the brassing on some black
painted bodies.  they also have "aluminum black", which is good for
blackening aluminum which also doens't like paint very much.

rick :)=
...


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 
From: "Jay Y Javier" nikitakat@edsamail.com.ph
Subject: Re: Can you gret brass to tarnish again quickly?

Try sodium sulphide (in minute quantities/ weak solution).  This is the part
II/toning bath in the bleach/tone sepia process.  Use at least 1/20th the
strength of the toner bath.  If you can get sodium sulphide
(yellow flakes, and smells like rotten eggs in solution), dissolve about 10 -
20 gr in 100 ml water.

Apply with a small blunt brush or cotton tip on the metal parts.

Jay
...


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 
From: Grant soifarms@igrin.co.nz
Subject: Can you gret brass to tarnish again quickly?

Use gun bluing solution on the brass.



From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002
From: ClassicVW@aol.com
Subject: Re: Camera refinishing

Did a quick search and found this site that lists replating/refinishing
shops. Maybe this could be a good start for finding some place that could
refinish camera top and bottom plates, and/or frames.. One mentions a bright
chrome finish. THAT would be neat for a Leica!

http://www.finishing.com/Shops/index.html

George S.


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 
From: "Peter Wallage" peterwallage@btinternet.com
Subject: Re: Any hints to removing old (70 yr) leather without damaging it?

--- In camera-fix@y..., Vick Ko vick.ko@s... wrote:
> To the repair enthusiasts -
>
> Any hints to removing old (70 yr) leather without damaging it?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Vick

Hi Vick,

Depends what adhesive was originally used. I took the leather off a 1930s Certo
Dolly to clean out 'corrosion bumps'. This was originally stuck with shellac. I lifted
one corner with a scalpel blade and dribbled in methylated spirit using a small
paintbrush from a kiddie's paintbox. This slowly disolved the shellac, lifting and
'painting' as I went along. Only one drawback, the spirit lifted some of the original
black dye out of the leather leaving brown patches, so I dyed it again with black
shoe leather dye. It looks fine, but perhaps a little too 'new'. I used
Pliobond to put the leather back.

I don't know what methylated spirit is called in other countries, but it's alcohol
based, made from wood so I'm told, and has additives put in to make it unpaletable
to drink. It has a purple colour.

Hope this may help, but usual disclaimer about trying it at your own risk.

Regards,

Peter Wallage


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 
From: "Barry Velostigmat" velostigmat@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Any hints to removing old (70 yr) leather without damaging it?

Methyl alcohol is sold in this country as gas-line antifreeze. Added to the
gas tanks of cars it prevents water in the fuel lines from freezing in
winter. It's clear, not tinted, when sold here.

You can get it almost anywhere. Gas stations, hardware stores, auto supply
stores etc.
...



[Ed. note: thanks to Jim Hays for sharing these tips on touch-up paints!! ;-)]
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002
From: JIM HAYS ace1139@email.msn.com
To: rmonagha@mail.smu.edu
Subject: Touchup For Cameras

An English company named HUMBROL makes some very fine touchup paints that are
great for cameras. These are really for metal toy soldiers, so they are tough and are great
for many projects. I touchup my black auto with it. These paints come in many colors
including black and flat black, and they come in small tin cans about an inch and one half
tall, really neat.

Also, one little trick to fine touchup,is to use the foam backed finger nail sanding boards
the ladies sand nails with. These have three grits on the same board , you can do some
very fine sanding and polishing with these. You can do some near perfect touchup with
these products.



[Ed. note: thanks to Matt Jachyra for these tips and URL on repainting his Canonette 28 ;-)]
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 
From: "Jachyra, Matt" Matt.Jachyra@morganstanley.com
To: "'rmonagha@post.smu.edu'" rmonagha@post.smu.edu
Subject: repainting the cameras

I found you listing about paints for cameras very useful. Here my attempt to
repaint and remove most markings related to manufacturer from a Silver Canon
Ql17:

http://brunerdog.tripod.com/canonproject.html

If replying please use polak187@aol.com...

Matt

 
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 
From: "Peter Wallage" peterwallage@btinternet.com
Subject: Re: Does anyone know how to apply textured paint?

--- In camera-fix@y..., Vick Ko vick.ko@s... wrote:
> Does anyone know how to apply the textured paint that was
used on the
> older metal camera accessories?
>
> An example would be the prism housing of a Rolleiflex.
>
> regards,
> Vick

I vaguely remember some discussion on this in one of the Leica
groups about two years ago, using 'crackle finish paint' , I believe
from a motor cycle shop. If I remember rightly the opinion was
that it was tricky to apply it. Sometimes it worked fine, other times
it didn't. I've looked for the messages about it, but I can't find
them.

Peter

 
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@netscape.net
Subject: Re: Does anyone know how to apply textured paint?

Vick, I used to work for Linhof, and their older Model III series
cameras were painted with crinkkle paint. Unfortunately it is no easy
thing to apply, and for the maximum crinkle effect it needs to be
baked. To just allow it to air dry won't work as well. Of course you
have been already pointed in the right direction by Michaell Cosby
for a supply if you do not have one, but it cannot be touched up if
that is what you are attempting as you will find that from piece to
piece the finish will vary as Peter Wallage mentions. First you will
need to sand blast off any old finish, and then completely, totally
degrease the surface. Napha is not a good degreaser, as it has its
own oily residue. If you use spray cans, heat the contents to build
up pressure before spraying, by having a pot of very hot water to set
the spray can into before spraying, and be sure to shake away any
water that remains on the can before approaching your piece to be
finished. It needs to be sprayed quite evenly, and to a wet finish,
and then placed in a tent that is dust and air current free where it
can be baked. If you can create all those things, you might just be
lucky enough to pull off a good crinkle finish. Good Luck!!! Vincent


--- In camera-fix@y..., Vick Ko vick.ko@s... wrote:
> Does anyone know how to apply the textured paint that was used on the
> older metal camera accessories?
>
> An example would be the prism housing of a Rolleiflex.
>
> regards,
> Vick


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 
From: rolohar@aol.com
Subject: Re: Does anyone know how to apply textured paint?

Some ideas:


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie;=ISO-8859-1&q;=krylon+wrinkle+finish+paint

http://www.pacificcoastsignsupply.com/catalog/pg_6.htm

http://www.cachebeauty.com/link_directory/dynamic-frameset.html?http://www.arr

l.org/tis/info/wrinkle.html

http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/MAR01/msg00322.html

Roland F. Harriston


 Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 08:58:17 -0400
   From: "Abdon" 
Subject: RE: Repainting

I have nothing against refinishing a sorry looking camera but for the most
part wear damage is best left alone; most common paints you can get are not
hard enough. They tend to give you rather disappointing results even after
removal of the old paint and a complete repainting. I'm looking into getting
a two-part lacquer and a modeler's spray gun for a beat-up Nikon F plain
pentaprism.

Small nicks are another matter. I have four shades of black nail enamel and
a nail polish stick (the one with a light sanding end, a lighter one, and a
polishing end). After finding the right shade I thin the paint down with
acetone and put several light coats until the hole is filled; a thick coat
risks tiny bubbles. After a day or so I can polish with the lighter sanding
side and then polish the area to match the shine with the stick's polishing
side. If you can pick the right shade of black the job is virtually
undistinguishable. If you are like me and can't distinguish well between
dark brown and black, ask your wife or significant other; they tend to have
an eye for that kind of stuff. :)

- Abdon



from camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@netscape.net
Subject: Re: Chrome paint for Contax III and Retina

I just wanted to revisit this regarding refinishing metallic
finishes. I had heard of this product before, but could not remember
the name earlier. It is a laquer and can be sprayed and or brushed
on, and has very realistic metal finishes that are supposed to be
quite durable. The product is called Alclad2 and they have an
internet site at the following URL: http://www.alclad2.com/ Check it
out, nice pictures of models finished with these paints. Vincent


--- In camera-fix@y..., "Rafael Alday" rafaelalday@y... wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have repaired a very nice Contax III. Now I have to restore it
> cosmetically. I am looking for a good paint for the chrome parts and the
> best way to treat the leatherette.


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 
From: "Vincent" jonyquik@netscape.net
Subject: Re: Chrome paint for Contax III and Retina

Dear Rafael, There is a guy on eBay who seems to be a dealer for this
Alclad2 paints. Currently he is running a bid for the high chrome
variety in bid # 1780396573. If you go to that bid, you can email him
a question, and perhaps he can direct you to a means of getting what
you would like from a dealer in your local. Good Luck!!! Vincent
...



From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 
From: "Abdon" abdon@sillypages.com
Subject: RE: Painting in white engraved letters

The easiest source would be white nail enamel.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rafael Alday [mailto:rafaelalday@yahoo.es]
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 
To: camera-fix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Painting in white engraved letters


Thank you Abdon but
what kind of ink do you use to paint in white?. I have tried several
permanent pens (black, red, green or yellow) but I have not found in white.

Rafael    
----- Original Message ----
From: "Abdon" abdon@sillypages.com
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 
Subject: RE: [camera-fix] Painting in white engraved letters


> As far as the engraving goes once the black paint is well cured, you paint
> the engraved letters and scrape the excess paint with a business card. After
> waiting a few hours you can clean up the dried mess around the engraved
> letters with a dab of lighter fluid. 


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 
From: "G. Dumont" silver.hands@photocrack.com
Subject: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

I use typing correction fluid. The one based on a solvent
(not the water soluble version). Works for me.

Gilbert 


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 
From: "Vincent jonyquik@netscape.net
Subject: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

Rafael, I use what is commonly called a 'china marker.' It is a kind
of pencil with a very fat wax core, maybe 3 or 4 mm. It has a string
on the outside which you pull down in order to expose more of the
core by peeling back a paper shell. It can be used to fill any
engraving, and comes in many colors. I usually find them in
stationary or art supply stores here in the US, and are very
inexpensive. If that isn't available to you, also available from
hardware stores are what is called 'Putty Stix.' They are also a waxy
substance, but not available in as many colors as the china markers,
but they are usually available in black and white and other colors
that appliances come in, and are used to touch up scars and marks.
The black which is opaque, can also be used for light trapping in
some circumstanaces. 

Good Luck!!! Vincent 


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 
From: "Mark Stuart madfamily at bigpond.com
Subject: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

Rafael,

I have had great success on the black parts of a Pentax Spotmatic
using satin black car (auto) engine enamel, called 'VHT GM Satin
Black'. The finish is indetectable from the original.

Mark 


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 
From: "Rafael Alday" rafaelalday@yahoo.es
Subject: Re: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

Yes I have used a similar paint for pentax lenses and looks wonderful. The
glossy paint (I have used) seems to me a little bit "artificial".

Thank you Mark,
Rafael 


From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 
From: Henry Chavez henricvs@yahoo.com
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: Filling engraving w/paint

Doug,
What do you think of this? Before you paint the main color you spray,
using a fine nozzle, the engraving. Don't worry about the overflow you can
clean this off later. Then when it is dry, you get some modeling clay and
fill the painted engraving so that it is flush. You then remove the
overflow and leaving the clay in place. Now you paint the main color and
the clay protects your engraving. When the main color is done, you remove
the clay and ta-da! In theory this should work, in practice. . .

Also I read somewhere that Micro Tools (I think that is what it is called)
sells pen that can be used to paint engravings.

I'm glad you're doing this first, it gives me much to think about. ;-)

Regards,
Henry


From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 
From: Henry Chavez henricvs@yahoo.com
Subject: [Russiancamera] Filling Engraving with paint - Doug

Here is a link to the markers that are sold at Micro Tools.

http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store;_Code=MT∏_Code=LS-KIT



Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com
From: Jim Blazik jcblazik@lasal.net
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: Filling engraving w/paint

I've filled engraved portions on both painted and unpainted pieces (be that
DOF scales on lenses or logo engravings on top plates, etc.) quite a lot,
and used a variety of means of doing so. This includes filling with enamel
and wiping the excess off with ethyl alcohol (this is best on unpainted
metal parts) and using the MicroTools Lacquer Sticks, too. Both methods
work, but both take some practice to get good results. The MicroTools
sticks are great, but are tricky until you get the applying/removing excess
technique down. Best I've found is to apply the pigment, lightly wipe the
excess off with bits of paper towel --not trying to remove all the excess at
first-- then let the piece dry (actually, it can be baked, too, which'll
speed the process and better harden the paint), then remove the last of the
excess with diluted polish or rubbing compound. Makes for a very nice
finish, and perfectly defined by the limits of the engraved lines. -- Jim
(who's feeling sort of honored lately what with my name having become a
verb, as in "to Blazik" --or paint-- a SovCam. Hooo-eeee!)



[ed. note: an important caveat and warning!!! ]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 
From: "Abdon" abdon@sillypages.com
Subject: RE: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

Be extremely careful with any form of paint you are not familiar with. I
have seen car retouching paint lift and curl the existing paint on cameras,
making a mess that required the entire existing finish to be removed. ALWAYS
try the paint on a discrete area to see if it could give you problems.

Abdon
http://www.sillypages.com/


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 
From: "Rick Oleson rick_oleson@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Painting in white engraved letters

I have painted in the letters with gloss white model-car paint,
wiping off the excess with a cloth slightly moistened with enamel
thinner before it completely dries.  this works best if the black
paint is more resistant than the white to chemicals.... generally
speaking, you can put enamel on top of lacquer but not the other way
round, as the lacquer thinner is much more aggressive than the enamel.

rick  :)=
...


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 
From: "Abdon Gonzalez" abdon@sillypages.com
Subject: RE: Paint that will stick to chromed surfaces

None. If you want to get results resembling anything decent, the chrome must
come out. Choices are to chemically strip the chrome, reverse
electro-plating, or simply sanding it off. There are some high-end
self-etching primers that should be ok...

then you need to find a two-part primer and a suitable air gun. Any two-part
system is a paint in the neck to use; if you let it dry on your equipment
you have to throw it away. This is when you get to work the imperfections by
wet sanding it with 600-grit sand paper. Apply and retouch primer until
satisfied.

Then a two-part color coat, and apply one coat only! Ok, maybe two, but at
this point your primed surface should be perfect, the less you fuss about
with the color coat the better your odds that it will look factory-made.

At the end one or two coats of (you probably guessed it) two-part clear
paint and you are ready to let it rest for a week for maximum durability.

Two-part polyurethane systems are expensive, and come in pint or gallon size
containers, not to mention that you need primer, color, and clear coats.
Good news is that if you get a system (all from the same vendor/line) you
can share the activator among them.

To summarize; research two-part poly paint, air brush, and the proper
application of said paints. When you are done and realize that it will cost
you around $200 plus days of research and practice just to try, consider
taking the money and paying somebody to do it. At least that was my
conclusion, I had a Leicaflex SL-2 that I wanted to send in for a paint job.
I eventually sold it, but it let me to realize that unless I wanted to do a
lot of cameras, I was better off paying somebody else to do it.

Mr. Shintaro Yaginuma is recommended in some circles. do a google search for
"shintaro camera" and you will find him and references to his work.

- Abdon
http://www.sillypages.com/
...


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 
From: "Jaeder_Instrument" clint@jaeder.com
Subject: Re: Paint that will stick to chromed surfaces

You could invest the time and effort to use three coatings of two part
paints to the stripped metal, or you could do what I did for cheap.

I bought a pint of industrial chemical called Metal Prep 90 by Devcon
http://devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=187

The pint I got was from from MSC, a huge industrial supplier, at their
tent sale- it's normally about 20 dollars a pint, I think I got some
that was expired for 99 cents. If you've never been to a MSC you
really should go- especially if you can get lucky and it's tent sale
time. Door prizes and all sorts of stuff you don't need..
http://www.mscdirect.com/

A pint will last forever around the house, it is a reddish thin liquid
that you wipe on the metal with a paper towel or paintbrush.

I cleaned my metal parts to be painted (on a fed 2) in an ultrasonic
cleaner, but using mek or paint stripper should work fine.

After the metal was really clean and dry (never touched by skin) I put
on the Metal Prep 90, and let it dry.

Then, in my case I used automotive wrinkle paint I got at a pep boys.A
spray can costs seven or eight dollars.
The wrinkle paint is the same stuff that is on enlarger heads, inside
of some leicas etc. The automotive stuff works great, comes in colors
and is tough. I baked mine on in the oven on as low as the oven would
go for about a half hour after it had dried some.
The wrinkle paint can take some practice to get right, but one can
will paint the camera top dozens of times, so just strip the botched
paint off and re-clean and prep to try again. I was going to get some
of those lacquer sticks from micro tool to re-fill the engraved
lettering, but have not done it yet.
As it is my black wrinkle fed is the ultimate stealth.
It's been over a year with it banging around on trips and on my desk,
and no blemish is on the paint at all, and i have not been careful
with it.

To to a better job, I believe you must remove the chrome, a process
that is not as hard as it sounds, I think a search for chrome removal,
or asking around at a harley shop for the name of a plating shop
should reveal someone who knows what chemical to use.. It's something
common that eats chrome but not brass..

Or forget all that and do what this guy did- they look Great!

http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/gray.html
have fun,
clint



-- In camera-fix@yahoogroups.com, "Brad" mr_bean_1957@y... wrote:
> My son wants a totally custom rangefinder. Complete with custom
> leathers from www.cameraleather.com my question is, what is a good
> paint that would stick to the chrome surface on a Yashica Electro?
> I'm going to use one of these because they are cheap on Ebay. Also
> what brand would wear well, it won't get much use, and my son is
> fanatica about taking care of his things. I'm thinking of olive drab,
> for a military issue type camera. Any ideas?


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 
From: Jon Hart jonhart51@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Camera painting.

Gene,
About 4 years ago, we did a job at Georgia
Military College in Milledgeville. We used Chrysler
dark slate blue (actually closer to gun-metal blue)
with a slight metallic sheen on the exterior steel
beams as part of an addition. Primer was common shop
primer (dark red); all paint applied with airless
sprayers with the thinning and application protocol I
described earlier. Covered completely with the second
coat. HVLP equipment would have made for an even nicer
finish in my opinion, but, I was just a gun-bearer on
that particular job. Coverage in that particular
instance was quite adequate given the light spray and
thinner used. Surprised the hell out me, actually. We
used several types of auto paint thereafter for
special jobs (auto paint just looks different) when
cost was not a consideration and the requisite skill
level was present (not everyone, it seems, can use the
stuff correctly). It still seems to me this is the
stuff to go with for hard-wearing surfaces such as
metal camera bodies. The biggest problem is matching
the exact color and sheen to the original.

Jon
from Deepinaharta, Georgia
--- Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net wrote:
> Applying less paint in such a manner certainly would
> reduce the film
> thickness, and its filling of engraving. Possibly
> this would work with
> black paint or opaque colors; mostly, what I've
> painted automotive
> surfaces with have been metallic/pearl textured
> paints, which require a
> semi-transparent base that has to build up an
> adequate film thickness if
> it is to hide the primed substrate.


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 
From: Mark Langer mlanger@ccs.carleton.ca
Subject: Re: Camera Painting

It isn't just a matter of spraying a primer and then a top coat. Paint really doesn't
adhere well to chromed finishes. Shintaro strips the chrome off the cameras.
Evidently, he discovered that prewar black Leicas were painted with the same automotive
lacquer as Mercedes Benz cars, and managed to track down the supplier of that paint to
Leica. To get a good finish, it is also necessary to filter the paint, and to apply it
in a dust free environment, baking it to get a more durable finish.

Youxin Ye began doing painted cameras by sanding the chrome out, but this created
problems, among which was the difficulty of putting the white filling in the engraved
lettering on the top of Leicas, since the sanding made the engraving more shallow. He
later managed to get an auto chrome shop to remove the chrome by a reverse of the
process used to put chrome on bumpers. However, the danger in this is that a
too-enthusiastic application of the process erodes the underlying brass as well. A
friend of mine managed to pick up a bargain black paint Leica that suffered from this.
Youxin uses automotive paint for the black cameras, and Testors for the coloured ones.
The Testors is far less durable, but then, these things look pretty cool when they are
brassed too.

Mark

> Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 
> From: Vick Ko vick.ko@sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Re: Camera painting.
>
> Well, consider Shintaro in Japan, with typical cost of $600 to strip and
> repaint Leicas.
>
> Would you pay that price for a Pentax KM?
>
> regards,
> Vick


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Re: Camera Painting

Mark Langer wrote:
> It isn't just a matter of spraying a primer and then a top coat. Paint really doesn't
> adhere well to chromed finishes. Shintaro strips the chrome off the cameras.
> Evidently, he discovered that prewar black Leicas were painted with the same automotive
> lacquer as Mercedes Benz cars, and managed to track down the supplier of that paint to
> Leica. To get a good finish, it is also necessary to filter the paint, and to apply it
> in a dust free environment, baking it to get a more durable finish.
>
> Youxin Ye began doing painted cameras by sanding the chrome out, but this created
> problems, among which was the difficulty of putting the white filling in the engraved
> lettering on the top of Leicas, since the sanding made the engraving more shallow. He
> later managed to get an auto chrome shop to remove the chrome by a reverse of the
> process used to put chrome on bumpers. However, the danger in this is that a
> too-enthusiastic application of the process erodes the underlying brass as well. A
> friend of mine managed to pick up a bargain black paint Leica that suffered from this.
> Youxin uses automotive paint for the black cameras, and Testors for the coloured ones.
> The Testors is far less durable, but then, these things look pretty cool when they are
> brassed too.

Pentax, at least in the M-series days, did not use automotive lacquer.

Lacquer is easily removed by using methlylene chloride paint stripper.
It softens, sloughs off and the remainder is easily removed with an old
toothbrush. I am in the process of refinishing a really scruffy old
black Pentax MX, which someone had oversprayed once already (without
removing the parts, so it obviously was air-cured and not baked). The
"new" paint, which appeared to be enamel, was adhering fine but was
softening and rubbing off where a user's hands touch it; so it had to
go. The paint stripper took it all off, just as easily as it takes off
automotive lacquer; the original Pentax factory paint was softened but
had to be sanded off.

I used sandpaper and steel wool to get the original Pentax black off the
top and the front standard of the camera. As an experiment, on the
bottom plate since it is easy to repaint if need be, I left the original
Pentax finish where it remained, washed it in mineral spirits to remove
the paint stripper thoroughly, let it dry, featheredged the painted
areas, then primed it and lightly wet-sanded with 600 grit paper to
blend the resulting surface textures before finishing the job with black
automotive lacquer. So far, so good; the appearance is excellent and
the finish has held up well.

-Gene Poon


[Ed. note: for info only, not recommended procedure!!]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Camera Painting & removal of chrome

First of all, somebody mentioned there might be "good
money in painting cameras." I tried to convince
myself of this for about a year while studying
it...unfortunately I was unable to find any workable
combination. Certainly spray painting them is not the
answer. It may be fine for hobby use or to make a
camera look like something it was never intended to
be, but from a commercial standpoint? Not gonna work,
unless you're able to generate much more demand than I
see being there. 

Now, about stripping chrome from any chrome plated
brass piece...the formula is: 50/50 mix of tap water
and muriatiac acid. Here are the precautions:
Muriatic acid must NEVER be poured into an aluminum
container. All hell will break loose, including toxic
fumes as the aluminum is aggressively dissolved. Put
it into a plastic container, like an old Tupperware
bowl or even a Cool-Whip container. Muriatic acid is
very cheap and very dangerous. VERY dangerous. Read
the bottle well. Some mistakes are irreversible. I
have never witnessed brass being dissolved by this
formula, but I only leave parts until the chrome can
no longer be seen. Neutralize with baking soda, and
you can safely dispose of the formula.
Hope this helps. Be Careful.
Jon

--- "R.C.Booth" r.c.booth@att.net wrote:
> In the past year someone on some site or newsgroup
> outlined the procedures
> and materials needed to chemically strip the chrome
> and prep the surface for
> painting. Perhaps a google search would provide the
> source. I wouldn't
> want to start sanding off chrome.
>
> RCB


[Ed. note: note this is a speculative procedure...]
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 
From: Gene Poon sheehans@ap.net
Subject: Re: Re: Camera painting.

dave l wrote:
> Has anyone had any experience using epoxy paints on camera bodies regards


I have not tried a two-part catalyzed epoxy. The common hardware store
spray cans marked "EPOXY PAINT" I have tried are no better than regular
enamel. I painted a camera with that, once and once only. Baked it in
an oven until it was hard. First time I took that camera out for an
afternoon, the paint started to soften around the corners and where I
touched it a lot. Useless...it came apart that night and went back into
the paint stripper.

A product that MIGHT work would be automotive acrylic enamel. I have no
experience with it on cameras; however, about 20 years ago, after having
a car repainted, I took the keys for it and dipped the "handle" end into
the can of "touch up paint" they gave me. I suspect it was actually the
color-mixed acrylic enamel, prior to addition of hardener/catalyst. It
baked up hard and glossy, and did NOT turn soft under handling. It did
wear around the corners of the keys, since they were on a ring with a
bunch of others, a VERY hard life for paint. Could be worth looking
into.

-GP


From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 
From: Jon Goodman jon_goodman@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Camera painting.

I've painted with lacquer, catalyzed enamel,
polyurethane, "epoxy" hardened enamel, imron etc for
over 30 years. I don't think automotive type or
production type paints are suitable. Personally,
powder coating seems to be the best, but even this has
some drawbacks, and to do it correctly would be quite
expensive.

Jon
...


From: pross@dejazzd.com (Paul W. Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Paint touch-up....
Date: 12 Aug 2003 

I recently used some Testor's model paint to touch up a couple of
places on the back of my old Retina IIa.

For paints that adhere to metal, aluminum, etc., check our the gun
supplier -- Brownells. www.brownells.com.

They have all sorts of metal refinishing stuff. They have a matte
finish black paint for aluminum that sticks to practically anything,
and is amazingly useful.


From: Chris Quayle blackhole@devnull.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Paint touch-up....
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003

Joseph Meehan wrote:
> The original is not "paint" and you are not likely to be happy with the
> results of any paint you try to put on yourself. The only real "fix" would
> be to remove the part from the camera and have it re-finished by a
> professional who does that kind of work.
>
> But why refinish? The brass showing through is a mark of experience and
> most uses would not think of eliminating it. It shows the camera is used as
> a real camera and not a toy.
>
> --
> Joseph E. Meehan

Sorry to disagree, but it is paint on most of the cameras i've seen.
Usually a thin coating as well, with my guess being stove enamel sprayed
on then baked. Aerosol auto paint is not the same and generally goes on
too thick to give the required thickness of coating.

If you have a small spraygun at home, experiment with different types of
paint and viscosity on metal offcuts. You can get various colours of
paintstick from microtools to fill in the lettering once your finished
with the main coat...

Chris



Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 
From: David Nebenzahl nobody@nowhere.net 
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: OT French polish 
To: Russiancamera-user russiancamera-user@mail.beststuff.com 

Doug wrote: 
> 
> >Peter Wallage wrote: 
> > 
> > In the thread 'Something new', David Nebenzahl 
> > wrote: 
> > 
> > "Just a small note--what Peter is talking about when he says 
> > "French polish" is ordinary shellac (white, not the orange 
> > stuff). I don't think most 'Merkins know from French polish 
> > (excepting woodworkers and such). It is a great finish, not 
> > only for cameras but also for wood surfaces." 
> 
> Unfiltered shellac (the white stuff) may not work as well as 
> filtered (orange). If memory serves, the white stuff is a 
> wax like substance (hence buffing to fix rings and such) 
> whereas orange stuff is pure lac bug residue. The wax may 
> impede good adhesion between metal and lac bug droppings. 

You've got it exactly backwards. 

I checked one of my back issues of _Fine Woodworking_ (June 1995) and found 
this sidebar on shellac: 

Shellac is derived from a natural resin secreted by a tiny insect called 
_Laccifer lacca_. This insect alights on certain trees indigenous to India 
and Thailand and feeds off sap in the twigs. The insects secrete a 
cocoon-type shell, which is harvested by workers shaking the tree branches. 
In this form, the resin is called sticklac and contains bits of twig. The 
sticklac is then washed to remove the impurities. At this point, it may be 
refined either by hand or machine. The next step up is buttonlac, which is 
processed in India. It is reddish-brown and is sold in 1-in.- to 2-in.-wide 
buttons. 

Seedlac is another impure form of shellac and is processed further in India 
for better-quality lacs or exported to other countries for further refining. 
White shellac is made in the United States by Wm. Zinsser Co. from imported 
seedlac that's dewaxed and bleached by bubbling chlorine gas through it. 
Shellac grading is complex because it is a product with wide commercial 
applications. But the most important characteristics for woodworkers are 
those based on color and wax content. The best grades of shellac for 
finishing have less than 1% wax and are light-amber in color. Wax in shellac 
decreases its moisture resistance and makes it less transparent. 

The most common shellac is industry-graded as #1 orange, which usually is 4% 
wax and is a brownish-orange color. Dewaxed shellacs can range in color from 
a dark-golden brown to a pale amber. 
[end of extract] 

The only shellac I've seen anywhere here for years has been the stuff sold 
by Zinsser, as stated above. (Home Despot has it around here.) 



From: lalil@lule.lo
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How do ya paint a camera
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004

The Wogster wogsterca@yahoo.ca wrote:
>Anyone know how to paint a camera with a lot of brassing, so that it
>looks good again? I figure a fresh paint job and some new leather might
>make an old camera look like new again. A CLA and new seals will make
>it feel like new again...
>
>Do you need to remove the old finish?
>If you do what is the easiest way?
>Do you need to treat the brass before finishing?
>Do you need a special paint?

Gives you the general idea, IF you want to do it properly.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/Shintaro/aboutpainting.html

Rick





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